Logitech Pro X Cable

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Bran Cardello

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Aug 5, 2024, 4:43:41 AM8/5/24

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Availablein 10, 25, and 45 meter lengths, Logitech Strong USB lets you deploy a self-powered USB device or hub at a significant distance from its host PC. Locate devices like the Logitech Tap touch controller for easy access, but hide the host PC in a cabinet, closet, or behind a display.

Unlike ordinary USB cables that can break when subject to pulling and crushing forces, Logitech Strong USB is built to last. With 200 newtons of tensile strength and a 1000 kg crush load, Logitech Strong USB stands up to commercial deployments in walls, above ceilings, and through conduit.

As an active optical cable, Logitech Strong USB delivers up to 10 Gbps for devices with their own power supplies, including Logitech Tap, Rally Camera, and Meetup. Compliance with the USB 3.2 Gen 2 specification assures backward compatibility with USB 2.0, 3.0, 3.1, and 3.2 devices and computers.

I'm hoping someone here can help, I'm having the common issue with my g940 throttle where the cable between the PCB and the throttle head is broken. I have tried removing the screw but that seemed to make things worse, i have also tried gluing the cable down and some other basic fixes, But it looks as though the only option is to replace it.

How handy are you with a soldering iron? (Or do you have friends who can solder?) What I did (with some part of my G940, I don't remember what exactly) was to add in spiral extensions to wires that under go movement in normal operation.

Grab yourself a couple of colored wired for electronic, a soldering iron, a beer or two and you should be good to go. it took me a night to figure out what I was doing and actually extending all wire.

Well I saw on the DCS (hope its ok to mention that game here) forums that a person was going to order replacement cables from china but could only do so in bulk, also seen another person have to do the same but with extension cables instead.

I can use a soldering iron, but I'd say I'm a bit of an amateur and those wires look tiny, and lots of them! Plus i am finding it hard to figure out where the break in the cable is, as the current issue is intermittent (the up and down on the top PoV only works currently between 25% to 80% throttle).

I would replace the entire cable. Take lots of photos so you know which cable goes where and use heat shrink like this to group the wires together -Assorted-Size-Polyolefin-Cable-Insulation-Heat-Shrink-Tube-Tubing/124059201982?hash=item1ce28131be:g:hXcAAOSwGL9eKuWd

So for now i think i'll keep looking for someone who has a replacement or is willing to make one for me that i can buy. I feel it would be better for me to try and get a quality replacement from someone who knows what they are doing, rather than me take days on what will probably be a terrible repair that ill only end up having to keep going back to fix.

I would be wary of buying replacements from China, I've been buying various things from China recently and they seem to be invariably inferior (even things like resistors which a super basic have bad tolerances and thin, flimsy, badly plated legs) so you might just end up with a cable that wears out even faster.

I have a G940 but I only use the stick (which I've extended) because, while I never had your problems I got so fed up with the terrible hysteresis they implemented (because they used crappy connectors - seriously if you have noise issues with a G940 it's hardware, not software) so I ended up getting a Warthog throttle which was good but I didn't like the switch type or layout so I upgraded again to a Virpil throttle and that thing is amazing. What I'm getting at with this wee story here is that it might be worth simply looking into a better throttle if you you can afford it.

Anyway what i think i'm going to do is swallow my anxiety and take everyone's advice and make my own cable. So i have ordered some heat shrink as @DD_Crash suggested, and i already have the IDE cables for it.

I just need to find and order new plugs for the ends (just in case i break the old ones), which is easier said than done as i cant pop to my local Maplins anymore! Does anyone know what those plugs are called for each end of the cable?

I have managed to find all the housings in the UK except the HB-2x04 (MDU-8F), in fact googling the marking only brings up Russian sites that wont allow me to buy from them ?, and putting it into ebay only comes up with a Hornby train!

Edit: They don't! And they directed me to contact Molex, which i have done. But its looking like i'm going to have to use the current ones, however if Molax get back to me with something then i'll update this post just in case anyone else is having trouble looking for these.

@Fallen_Tyrael how did this project go? I'm about to embark on it myself, and seem to be running into the same problems as you regarding sourcing the plugs. I figure I'll use the sockets from the old cable, and the PHR-12 listing I'm buying from has a couple extra sets, so I should be able to use the spare contacts from those in conjunction with the old sockets, I think.

Hi @migmadmarine, not sure if you went ahead with your fixes but I had similar issues on my G940. I ended up just doing a continuity test on the wires from top to bottom and found two were broken, I then replaced only these two with wire from an ethernet cable as others had, which while not a perfect job seems to have worked out ok. My throttle is now completely working and reliable, I made sure the cables ran via the same paths and were not catching or pulling. I had watched the tutorials as well, but like you I found it near impossible to fine all the connectors to build a new cable so I opted for a quick fix!

Anyway I never did find the HB-2x04 (MDU-8F) housing in the UK. So what i did in the end was make a new cable from an IDE cable and replace the 12 pin housing. However i cheated and just soldered the rest of the cables together, which has fixed my hat issue however I'm still having issues with the R1 and R2 wheel being jumpy when i move the throttle. Which means at some point I'm going to need to take it apart again and do a proper job but reuse the HB-2x04 housing.

Right, fair enough. My repair seems to have worked fully, but looks kinda dicey on the inside. Be advised the Hb-sxOF (JST PHDR-08-VS) does require different crimps than the other two. If you want I can send you links for sources of all three connectors.

I concluded the repair of my original one in a functional but not super pretty state, but in the process of all this I've been offered another G940 suffering the same issue, so I will attempt a better quality fix on that one, and probably give the original to a friend of mine who is in need of a stick.

Anyway functional is good! Its not like anyone is going to see it and at least now you know what you're doing for the next one. However it would be far easier if Logitech and/or Microsoft pulled their fingers out and made a new FFB Stick or HOTAS!

Hi Fallen_Tyrael that issue with the R1 and R2 wheel being jumpy is caused by a break in the common ground wire (the black one, number 12 on the diagram) , I fixed it on my throttle last night.

It will be broken under the back of the rotating throttle mechanism because when you bring the throttle to idle that part chops into the wiring loom like a meat cleaver (bad design).

Hope you can get that last bit fixed, the G940 is a good Hotas apart from these wiring issues! and the reversal bug which I might tackle next.

That is good to know it worked. My R2 wheel has suddenly stopped working again I think I might have to bite the bullet and replace the whole wiring loom instead of just trying to patch the wires all the time.

With up to 15x the reach of ordinary USB 3.x cables, Logitech Strong USB lets you separate USB peripherals and a host PC by up to 45 meters (147.6 ft). These active optical cables are plenum-rated and Eca certified for commercial installation in walls, above ceilings, through raceways, and within standard " conduit.

I just want to preface this by saying that while your post is specifically about extending a USB signal, my advice below is relevant (for the most part) regardless of whether the signal you're trying to extend is USB, VGA, HDMI, DP, DVI, SDI, etc. My answer is kind of overkill for your specific question, but I'm hoping it'll be helpful for other people on the forum with similar questions about extending a signal over a distance.

If you plan on using any sort of wireless extender, (e.g. wireless HDMI transmitter gets attached to the camera, wireless HDMI receiver gets attached to the computer), you can also use a variation of this method by placing the wireless receiver above the center of the stage in the grid or on a batten to minimize the distance between the transmitter and the receiver, and then using wired extender (ethernet, SDI, etc) to extend the signal from the wireless receiver to the computer.

If you need to go a reasonable distance and you *do not* have a big budget for extenders, consider using a laptop hooked up to the camera close to where the camera needs to be, wiring the laptop and your show computer to an ethernet switch, creating a Local Area Network, then using NDI to send the camera feed from the laptop to your show computer via LAN. Assuming you don't need to buy or rent a second computer, this option is one of the cheapest ways to do this.