The Cloth is a 2013 American horror/thriller film that was written and directed by Justin Price, who based it upon his book of the same title.[1] The film stars Danny Trejo, Eric Roberts, Rachele Brooke Smith, Kyler Williett, and Steven Brand.[2][3] Filming took place in 2011 and was in post production as of early 2012.[4]
"The Cloth" of the title, on which the story centers, is a secret organization which the Roman Catholic Church forms to counteract the rising number of cases of demonic possessions across the country. The story follows a young man (Kyler Willett) who, though he is godless, is recruited into The Cloth to prepare a new generation with the tools needed to stop the rise of Beezlebub, the ultimate evil.[6] The Cloth has found, much to the dismay of its members, that devout believers lack the capability for providing such tools, and thus that it needs an agent who refuses to believe in a god or gods to provide it with them.[citation needed]
HorrorNews.net gave a mostly negative review for The Cloth, writing: " Definitely had some impressive visuals and a good script but are undermined by weak acting and an unoriginal story in this lively but unsatisfying tale of priests and demons."[7]
Both Lee filters and Roscoe cine gels list grid cloth in various densities/weight (Light stopping abilities). Both product ranges are sold in most Motion Picture supply places. Even fabric stores sometimes carry White rip-stop nylon which is similar in appearance to grid cloth and works in a pinch. Other white colored polyester fabrics work as well. You will have to test for color temperature variation. Hope this helps.
I have made 8x8 frames up with ripstop nylon and it works fine. I would say it's not quite the same textile as what is often called gridcloth, which has a stiffer, more papery texture. Maybe that's just what one particular manufacturer uses and I'm not aware that either has any advantage over the other.
Various kinds of semi-translucent fabric would work as a diffuser so long as they're neutral in colour (or you're aware of and happy with the fact that they aren't, as in unbleached muslin). The only issue is when people on a crew are used to particular types - someone asks for a quarter grid and you've got what you've got, and it does what it does.
I'm thinking of things like the Aladdin Fabric Light, which seems to be able to save an enormous amount of time, gear and space in terms of simple convenience. Hugely powerful, compared to a diffused fresnel, too.
Yes; 1/2 silent grid cloth has been my flavor of choice lately.
I have found them odd to purchase but I found a pretty optimal place (in the States at least) to be BarnDoor.
-results.html?query=grid+cloth
Anyone have any sort of sure-fire solutions on how to fix pin hole-like light leaks on a cloth shutter? I have a circa 1957-59 Zeiss Hexacon with this problem and although there are no tears in the shutter itself the pin hole leaks seem to come from it being so friggin' old and by being pulled on from advancing the film. Is there some sort of a remedy for repairing such minuscule leaks or just place the camera on a shelf and look at it and sigh knowing it will never take another crap photo in my hands for the rest of its (and my) life?
11:47AM, 10 November 2007 PDT(permalink)
Well i don't know about Zeiss Hexacons. But I have had the cloth shutter on my 1951 Leica IIIg changed twice. I generally have it done when the thing starts to bounce (about every 15 years). I would have thought it was possible with yours.
ages ago(permalink)
I have just repaired the cloth shutter on a ICA Reflex camera with textile paint. It is now light tight.
I have also sorted pinholes in a Leica IIC shutter curtain using textile paint.
This is only a temporary repair, getting the curtains re-vulcanised or replaced is the best solution in the long term.
Originally posted ages ago. (permalink)
Agfapan-25 edited this topic ages ago.
I've used fabric paint on my Exakta Varex IIB.
It depends how you look at it really. Ideally you want to replace the shutter, but a full replacement probably isn't the easiest of jobs. (Just buying the parts is relatively straght forwards, it is just a piece of cloth after all). As I see it, if the camera doesn't cost enough to justify repair, this will give it another few years.
You want a small pot of black fabric paint and about the smallest fine art style paint brush you can find.
Remove lens (If possible) and hold the camera to the light
Use paint to cover the holes, try not to blob it too much. You'll find more holes when you look at the shutter from different angles. Try and get them all.
Wait 12+ hours for paint to dry. Wind shutter, fine repeatedly. Repeat above process with bits you missed.
Mostly common sense really, but shouldn't cost more than 5 to repair, and you'll have loads of paint left over. No good for a snobby collector, but perfectly good for images.
ages ago(permalink)
great link, i usually leave the lens cap on but had no idea of the potentially instantaneous damage to the curtain. although i have mirrors in my cameras, using mirror lock-up is something to look out for. hopefully this is one problem i will be able to avoid ahead of time. thanks
d.
ages ago(permalink)
I'll second the idea of using fabric paint. I just resurrected a Zenit 11 that had a horrible thinning of the cloth shutters that was giving very bad light leaks. I bought a bottle of Tulip Soft ebony fabric paint and a brush for about $6.00 at a local craft store. I applied a couple of thin coats, let it dry overnight (roughly 16 hours) then shot a test roll and developed it. Light leaks were gone. Well worth a try before getting into costly repairs or replacements.
ages ago(permalink)
My Exacta VX just gave me a roll with spots all over my negs. And I called a friend who had done a shutter patch up before himself. He said he used ballpoint pen ink.
I will try that as it seems lighter than nail polish or liquid rubber/latex...
ages ago(permalink)
Leitz (The predecessor to Leica.) repaired the pinhole with some sort of goppish stuff which is cosmetically challenged. None the less, after years of use (But no more new pin holes.) the repair is still fine.
Rather than being without your camera during vacation, you might want to go an auto supply place and look for Vinyl repair. It comes in a tiny bottle with a few colors to mix into it. It is the goopy stuff Michael mentioned. Carefully paint over the holes. Let it set, then apply again until you cannot see daylight through the holes.
I was taking pictures once for contest where images must be taken with only one particular lens and only wide open (at f1.5). So, one very sunny day I jumped out from office to take fence shadow on the white snow. Few minutes, like five, and curtain was burned. Across the ocean (Germany) another photog was taking same kind of pictures for same contest. Also managed to burn his Leica curtain.
A few years ago at the Grand Canyon on a sunny day I was using my M9 while my wife used my M6. Then she asked about changing a setting and turned the camera lens-up. So I said "This one's easier" and traded cameras for the rest of the trip. No damage to camera or wife.
Wow. I didn't realise the shutter was so fragile. Maybe I didn't cause the burn today. I put the film in yesterday afternoon so that was the earliest it could have occurred - I was shooting on the very sunny promenade at Cannes .....but not wide open.
no. any f-stop will do. on a sunny day in may acouple of years ago i made the test with an already-otherwise-handicapped FED4 and an industar 50/2,8. burning holes into the curtain took 5seconds wide open at just about any setting of distance. that makes 20s in f=5.6. maybe 10s at f=11 on a really sunny southern france day in august will do the job as well.
by the way i also tested fixing the holes with liquid latex. that worked only for a couple of days. then the latex fell off. theic camera was broken anyway. but under real circumstances those latexpatches would have started travelling through the camera from then on. that is why i would not attempt repairing my leicashutter with any material that is not recommended by leica themselves.
Learning to hold the camera pointing away from the Sun while carrying it & pointing the camera away from the Sun when putting it down, is something that most Leica users learn reasonably quickly once they realize how important it is to do.
I wondered if it's not too much trouble if you should share some photos, front and back, of the damage? I just posted in a different thread in the forum because I also have some marks on my M-A shutter curtain that I believe may be sun burns but that didn't go all the way through. Would love to be able to compare the appearance for forensic purposes. Many thanks, and sorry to hear about the incident!!!
From the beginning from advice from my mentor in 1965 I carried my M cameras from my shoulder, lens pointing inward toward my hip or backside. In fact, I still did that with much later Leica M until someone here reminded me it was no longer necessary. Another liberating moment! Thanks, all.
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