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The trail began climbing immediately, making its way up the flank of the small mountain. Even though we were far from wildflower season there was still lots of interesting vegetation to see along the trail. Desert agave, with its tall, protruding stalks sticking up, and fuzzy-looking cholla plants and dotted the hillside.
The years had taken their toll on the old homestead. The walls had all but disappeared, leaving only a couple posts and an old door frame standing. The rusted remains of an old metal bed sagged in the middle of the former abode.
Life atop this mountain clearly must have been challenging, but as we walked around the site taking in the breathtaking views and reveling in the still silence of the desert, we could see the appeal of such a remote homestead.
The trail ended at the homestead site, but it looked like a short scramble up the rocks would bring one to the actual summit of Ghost Mountain. We contemplated this off-trail adventure for a moment, but eventually decided against it.
Directions:
From Scissors Crossing (intersection of 78 and S2), head south on S2. At just under 6 miles you will see the dirt turnout for Blair Valley on your left. Follow the dirt road south for 3.2 miles then turn right, following signs for Ghost Mountain/Marshal South Trail. map
I was sitting on the dock at North Manitou Island, waiting for the ferry to take me back to the mainland, when I overheard a conversation between two national park rangers. They were talking in hushed tones about how, the night before, another ranger on South Manitou island had apparently gone berserk, brandished his firearm, and demanded to be taken off the island because ghosts were tormenting him. Now, this was interesting.
The Manitou Islands are located approximately eight miles offshore from the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. They are both parts of the national lakeshore. They are uninhabited except during the summer when they receive backpackers and tourists.
Both islands were previously inhabited until they became part of the National Park system. Settled in the 1800s, they were populated by farmers, timber men, artists, vacationers, and seemingly ghosts.
When I visited South Manitou Island for the first time, I found a beautiful island with restored village buildings near the ferry docks. A few of these are maintained for use by the park rangers for summer housing and administrative purposes, while others are historical displays.
The Manitou Transit company operates the ferry and offers a historic sightseeing tour of the island. During this tour, the guide described many features of the island, spoke of the history, and mentioned that the island had a rich history of hauntings.
On the tour, our guide pointed out the location of what is known to be a mass grave. As the legend goes, in the late 1800s, a steamship pulled into the harbor one night and dropped off more than twenty passengers infected with cholera, some dead, the rest nearly so. The captain and crew promptly left the sick for the local islanders to manage.
Unfortunately, the islanders had little choice but to dig a mass grave and bury the victims, both dead and alive, to preserve their own lives. Soon after, the first appearances of ghosts and hauntings began. The mass grave is believed to be located near the Old Cemetery just north of the Bay Campground. This is near where the old dock used to be located.
The crossing between mainland Michigan and the islands is known as the Manitou Passage. The passage is the deadliest section of Lake Michigan. Weather can change quickly, and the shoals amidst the passage create a navigational hazard.
There are over 50 known shipwrecks, mainly from the heyday of the steamship era. Traffic was quite busy here during the late 1800s, and there were frequent accidents where ships would literally run into each other. Add treacherous weather and a narrow shipping channel, and you have a recipe for disaster. Some scuba divers have told stories of hearing tortured cries while diving off of shipwrecks.
The wreck of the Francisco Morazan lies visible off the southwest shore. It ran aground during a snowstorm on November 27, 1960. No lives were lost, but a local island boy drowned while swimming near the wreck several years later.
Another tale is of the lady ghost that is seen walking along the beach near the dock carrying a lantern at night. It seems that she was either married or engaged to a man from the island, and one day he sailed to the mainland but never returned. She awaited his return, but he never came back. Every evening she would dress in her finest dress, walk down to the dock, and wait for him to return. Years went by, and she continued her daily watch without ceasing. She grew old but continued her nightly walk until she was found dead on the beach one day. Seemingly, she died hopeful that her betrothed would return to her one day. After her death, the locals saw her ghost waiting at the dock and pacing the beach just as she did while alive.
It is claimed that the South Manitou Lighthouse is haunted by its former keepers. One day in 1878, lightkeeper Aaron Sheridan and his wife Julia made their way on a small fishing boat with their infant son to the mainland. Unfortunately, their boat capsized in heavy seas upon their return, and all three perished. A detailed account of Aaron Sheridan, his wife, and his child can be found at Lighthouse Digest.
Over the last two decades, I have been a frequent visitor to South Manitou Island. I love backpacking and exploring the island. For me, it is one of the most beautiful and peaceful places that I have experienced. I have met other campers who claim to have seen or felt otherworldly spirits. Personally, I have not. One time, when I was of only a few campers on the island, I heard voices in the forest that didn't make sense given where I knew the other campers were. Was this a case of their voices carrying or echoing over a long distance?
Another odd occurrence was when I was hiking through the forest heading south from the Poppel campground. I came upon a clearing and smelled lavender, and the air suddenly chilled. The smell of lavender was odd as it was late May; too early for lavender to be in bloom. A short distance later, I came upon the cemetery. Later I read that lavender is associated with ghosts or spirits.
A few years ago, I was camping on the island, and a passing storm caused large waves that prevented the ferry from making its scheduled trip. The result was a day without the arrival of day visitors or new campers.
The park rangers give a daily tour of the lighthouse. As it was a slow day due to no ferry, the ranger had more time to talk to the few of us who were touring the lighthouse that day. One of the other campers asked about ghosts and hauntings, and the ranger affirmed the popular stories. I asked him about the ranger that had gone berserk a few years earlier. He confirmed that another ranger had indeed broken down, drawn his weapon, and demanded to be taken off the island. The park service arranged for the Coast Guard to fly a helicopter to the island that night and remove the ranger. The house he had been living in had a history of hauntings. The ranger received medical treatment and is now doing well, in a new career, according to the ranger who confirmed this story.
The one absolutely for sure ghost story is that of the trees that the shifting dunes have overtaken. The sand eventually kills the trees and leaves their dead remains behind. The best example of this is seen along the Perched Dunes.
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The story starts with a surveyor named George Goyder. Born in Liverpool, Goyder emigrated to Australia in 1848 and landed a job creating land surveys for mining and railways around South Australia. Known for his attention to detail, he was eventually promoted to Surveyor-General in 1861, just as the region slid into drought.
When the railway was closed in the 1980s, Farina became a ghost town. Sand blew in from what were once fields and lay in drifts around the buildings. Roof frames rotted and collapsed, leaving just walls. And when I first visited in 2006 the place had basically returned to desert, with nothing but a row of facades to mark what was once the main street.
And since there was a time crunch, I only had one day to explore. I had to be very choosy about my targets and stay focused. There would be some room for serendipity, but it was a long drive just to get to that area. Using my lists, maps, books, and other resources I mapped out several must-see spots along with some secondary targets. The must-see spots included suspected ghost towns. The secondary targets were usually old schools or interesting churches. I also wanted to drop in at the Marion County Museum to see if they had additional information about some of these locations. Even my pared-down list could easily take two or three days of exploration. I had one.
The business was founded on Jan. 1, 1867, by B. F. Davis, the grandfather of the [then] present owner, a few miles east of the present location at Dog Bluff on Little Pee Dee River. There was no railroad transportation in the area at that time, and roads were poor, so supplies for the store had to be brought up the river on barges. A few years later, however, land transport had improved, and Davis moved his operations nearer to the population center of the community, to the present site.
The school is a simple single-gable structure with two small rooms. It was built in 1870 and classes were ungraded. It began as a school for white students, but later resources list it as a black school.
Regardless, it was very rustic. I can only imagine what school would have been like here. According to my resources, this is the oldest school building remaining in Marion County. It closed sometime after 1920.
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