Overlocker Tension

[Frida Kosofsky]

Belowis an example of what balanced stitch with correct serger tension looks like. I threaded my machine with 4 different colors of thread to make it easier to see which thread is doing what. The left needle is yellow, the right is red, the upper looper is green and the lower looper is light blue.

Now that you know what balanced tension looks like, know that some overlockers can be very particular about tension. And it can need to be tweaked for every new fabric or type of thread. So I strongly recommend using scraps of your actual fabric and as many layers of fabric as you will be sewing to check your tension before you start sewing your project. That way you can tweak any settings that need to be adjusted before you make a mess.

Thank you very much! You know my serger has died almost many a time just for this, then I try again and again, will save and print this for me to keep handy, very frustrating, but thank you very much for this it will save me a lot of headaches.

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How to get the correct overlocker tension is the most common issue when using these machines. An overlocker is a fantastic machine and can be extremely useful. But they can also be beastly. Read on to find out how to use them and get the most from an overlocker.

Tension should be adjusted properly when sewing with an overlocker. If the stitch is not correct, check for proper threading before turning the tension dial.

Even if only one thread has been snagged or has slipped out of a thread guide, it can appear that the tension needs adjusting. If a machine that has been sewing with correct tension after the thread is changed check the threading before adjusting the tension dials.

When learning how to adjust the tension, thread the machine with colours of thread that match the colour coding on the machine. This helps you to visualise and understand each thread path and how the threads interact with each other.

When the overlocker stitch has poor tension, only one thread may need adjustment. Adjust too tight threads first as they may cause the other threads to seem loose even when they are not. Learning to adjust the correct thread or threads takes practice.

Overlockers have the tensions preset at the factory for basic seaming. If the machine has numbered tension dials, write down the preset numbers before practicing.

Your instruction manual may also give recommended settings for all stitch types. Although factory and recommended settings will not give perfect tension for all fabrics, they do provide a good point of reference, especially for beginners.

Practice adjusting the tensions by sewing on a long strip of fabric. Start sewing, and slowly turn the tension dial for one of the threads to a lower number. As you sew, examine the stitches to see the change in tension. The thread that has been adjusted will be slack or loose. Return the tension dial to the original setting.

Continue to sew, turning the same tension dial to a higher number. Examine the sample again to see how the tension has changed. The fabric puckers when one of the threads it too tight. Return the tension to the original setting. Continue to turn tension dials, one at a time, to see how each thread affects the stitch.

When looper tensions are correctly adjusted for a balanced overedge stitch, two opposing threads lock together at the edge of the fabric. When needle tensions are correctly adjusted, the threads rest smoothly on the top and are slightly visible on the underside. Looper threads form small relaxed loops. Compare your stitches to the pictures below if you are uncertain about which tension dial needs adjusting.

The 3-thread overlock and the mock safety stitches are adjusted the same way. The overlock stitch (a) uses one needle to secure the stitches, and the mock safety stitches use two needles.

There are two types of 4-thread mock safety stitches; on one, the upper looper thread locks at the left needle thread (b), and on the other, at the right needle thread (c), depending on the model. 4-thread mock safety stitches are suitable for seaming wovens. Because these stitches stretch, they are also ideal for knits. The extra needle in in the mock safety stitch make it stronger than the overlock stitch.

Thank you ! After having my antique serger for 20 years, I finally needed to do a rolled hem on 24 yards of ruffles for a dance costume. The instruction book was nowhere to be found, and I was totally without a clue how to proceed. I found a throat plate without a stitch finger and a presser foot marked "R" in my accessory box. After installing them on the serger, I was able to use your instructions to produce a perfectly rolled hem on slippery polyester.

This was such a lifesaver! Thank you so much! I to lost my manual for the same serger and really wanted to do a rolled hem. Luckily I found your instructions, and produced one within minutes! Thanks so much!!! Oh and the pic of the stitch finger thingy, was so helpful, since I had no clue what is was till I scrolled down :)

Wow, thank you! I've been doing a lot of trial and error with my brand new machine, and these directions make it make a lot more sense. I'm about to do a couple projects with rolled hems, and am glad to have some good advice to start it out with!

This is great! By the way my machine doesn't have any R's! I watched a youtube video that said to put in on the rolled hem setting, haha, my machine is older than that! I love the lego trap too, I just have a pile of junk that falls on the floor!

Have you ever had a problem when doing a rolled hem over seams? I'm finding my machine changes the tension and the rolled hem stitching gets wide and ugly over the seam. Any tips! I have the Brother 3034D which is basically the same as the 1034.

Anon--

you could try pounding your seams to flatten them out really well before you hem. I do this when I hem knits using my coverstitcher--I just use the narrow end of a wooden spoon and pound them on the countertop.

I found your directions when I, like many others, needed to make a rolled hem and have lost my manual!

Excedllennt instructions. Thankyou very much.

I took the liberty of looking at some of your finished 2010 projects. You have been very busy - I don't know how you completed all those projects while raising three beautiful children and doing all the other things required of a mother. Well Done! Now if only I could get ONE project done....

Thank you so much for this valuable tutorial! I'm just learning how to use my new overlocker and I've been practicing rolled hems on all sides of some fabric squares. I couldn't figure out why the squares would never lie flat after each side had been hemmed -- until I took your advice and adjusted the tension dials! Perfection! Thank you from Sydney, Australia! :-)

I am hoping you are still able to reply to comments on this post. Do you know if you are using a 3-thread overlock machine if you still need to remove the left needle? I am using a friend's machine, which doesn't have a manual (or even one available online). Hoping I can figure out how to create a rolled hem with it for a crib skirt I'm working on for our first baby girl (after three boys!). Thanks!

I have a 634D Brother Serger. My book tells me to change the needle plate and the foot and to also remove the right needle. These I managed to do. Then I am supposed to move the upper blade out of the way, this I managed also. Now it says to move the lower blade next to the plate, and I haven't been able to follow the instructions for this. Also I'm told to change the sewing pitch and to do this I have to open the material cover plate, can't figure out how to do this. Any help you give me will be greatly appreciated.

Have had a serger for over 16 years and always struggled with it. Never really got the tension good until I took it in to be cleaned and someone else would do it for me. I have and order for 40 table runners, 400 chair covers and I don't know how many tablecloths to be finished by August. Thank you! Have read many tips Online but you are the only one who made sense to me. Thank you many times. You are the best!

You just made my year!! I own a bridal shop and strictly use my serger to do a rolled hem on the edge of veils. I had to purchase a new serger about 2 years ago after the one that had been here for years died. I've gotten so frustrated with the tensions that lately I've just been sending them to my mom who has all of the settings on her machine figured out. I've been sitting here looking at this new serger and getting upset about the fact I spent money on something that I can't even figure out how to use properly! I always knew it was a tension problem, but never knew which way was tighter/looser and how to determine which threads to tighten/loosen to get the right look on the extremely light weight fabric. Thank you a million times! Your explanations were simple and easy to follow!

Often when switching between fabrics and thicknesses, an overlock stitch can become unbalanced. The tension of the lower looper could be too tight, causing it to pull the thread of the upper looper to the back. Or the right needle could be looser than the left needle, creating loops on the front and back of the fabric. This lesson will teach you how to balance the 4-thread overlock stitch, while creating a booklet of overlock stitches to help troubleshoot future tension problems when switching between fabrics and techniques.

Thread the machine, matching the thread colors to the corresponding color code on the thread paths of the L 460. After threading the machine, set all the tensions (Upper Looper, Lower Looper, Right Needle and Left Needle) to the default setting of 4 using the thread tension dials on the front of the machine.

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