repairing dive mask
CHUCK Shipley
My Mares ESA mask has sprung a leak!
That is the fancy mask with six separate panes. I have close-up
lenses in the bottom panes; that is the reason I bought this mask.
Each replaceable lenses is held in place by a plastic frame that has tabs
that snap into holes in the mask proper. I have been worried from day one
that one of the tabs would break. Should have spread my worrying around a
little. The tab is ok, but the plastic around the tab-hole in the mask
just failed on my last dive trip. That means the tab isn't held tightly
in place, and so the pane leaks -- a lot!
The mask was very pricey.
I will never take out the close-up lenses in the mask.
So I need to glue/seal the pane in place.
Before I attack the beast with my hundred-year supply of super-glue,
I thought I'd ask if anyone has any experience with making such
repairs. I know that some glues and some plastics are not compatible.
What should I use to repair my expensive mask?
(I spent the entire last dive with my finger on the hole -- not only
am I not Dutch but it kind of messed with my photography.)
-chuck shipley
ch...@Armstrong.edu
Barry Stier
Hi Chuck,
You're right in holding off just gluing it. It might damage it.
One thing to test, if you have access to nail polish remover, is to
put some on your finger tip and press it into the side of the mask where a
small mark won't matter. If the remover leaves an imprint from your finger you
will know that you can repair it with a solvent. (You need to test both
parts if they may
be different materials. If you could make the mark, all you need to do is
take a cue tip
and moisten the two surfaces, then press them together. They will fuse into
one piece.
If that doesn't work, you could look in your yellow pages to find
the nearest plexiglass
store. They would probably be willing to test to see if one of their
solvents or glues will
do a good job on the mask. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't charge
anything for the
potential customer good will.
The next thing to try is to get the 800 number for 3-M corporation
(call 1-800-555-1212)
customer service dept. Ask them where the nearest 3-M glue dealer is to you.
They will probably
have some time of glue that is perfect.
Another potential source is a large building supply store like Home
Depot. They have a
department with very many types of glues. Just read the labels to see which
ones would be good
for plastics.
Good luck.
Barry Stier
http://divesales.com
Ron Lee
IN addition to what Barry mentioned, I will forego my standard reply
to use duct tape and offer the suggestion than an RTV silicone (caulk)
"may" work. Of course it is best to find out from the manufacturer how
to proceed considering the cost and importance of your mask.
Ron Lee
Huntzinger, Hugh A.
Chuck Shipley writes:
> My Mares ESA mask has sprung a leak!
> Each replaceable lenses is held in place by a plastic frame
> that has tabs that snap into holes in the mask proper.
> I have been worried from day one that one of the tabs would
> break...
FWIW, it costs ~$5 and ~5 minutes in a diveshop to
replace a bad plastic frame with a new one.
> ...Should have spread my worrying around a little.
> The tab is ok, but the plastic around the tab-hole failed
> ...
> What should I use to repair my expensive mask?
Have you tried your local dive shop? :-)
If its not a locally-replacable part, they can usually
send most anything back to the manufacturer, who will
figure out something. You might even get a free replacement.
The downside is, of course, that this takes time...I sent
a Dacor mask out last year and it took around 6 weeks (and
some "hurry up!" phone calls), although this was to replace
the skirt on a discontinued style.
BTW, make sure that it gets noted on the paperwork that
your mask includes special lens inserts...
-hh
CHUCK Shipley
On Thu, 22 May 1997, Huntzinger, Hugh A. wrote:
<snip>
>
> > ...Should have spread my worrying around a little.
> > The tab is ok, but the plastic around the tab-hole failed
> > ...
> > What should I use to repair my expensive mask?
>
>
> Have you tried your local dive shop? :-)
>
Alas, I didn't buy the mask at my local shop, and the local
shop doesn't carry Mares equipment. I bought the mask at UnderSeas,
which some of you will recognize as being in the Looe Key area --
a LONG way from Savannah. :-(
Of course, my local shop might know about glues for repairing
masks. I doubt it, but they might.
> If its not a locally-replacable part, they can usually
> send most anything back to the manufacturer, who will
> figure out something. You might even get a free replacement.
>
The broken "part" is the mask itself, since that is where
the tab-hole is. The plastic defining the hole broke away.
I think the manufacturer *should* be willing to replace the mask
since the mask is so expensive and the system failed without being
mistreated or abused. But I suspect that it would take a LONG
LONG time to get this settled. If I can fix it by simply glueing
it myself, I can save myself a lot of grief.
> The downside is, of course, that this takes time...I sent
> a Dacor mask out last year and it took around 6 weeks (and
> some "hurry up!" phone calls), although this was to replace
> the skirt on a discontinued style.
>
> BTW, make sure that it gets noted on the paperwork that
> your mask includes special lens inserts...
Excellent advice. If I do send it to the manufacturer I'll
make just such a notation.
> -hh
Thanks for your advice guys. Keep your suggestions coming!
Has *anyone* had a similar problem?
--chuck
Jeffrey A Charlston
Just a shot in the dark- have you tried screaming loudly at Mares? That's
not a spot that should be prone to failure. I'd ask at my dive shop, then
give the company a good blast. For what the ESA costs, you're at least
entitled to ruin someone's day at Mares customer service.
FTR- I called Mares with a couple of questions after purchasing a
Divemate. They located their technician for that computer and had him
call me back; I got a very good impression of their willingness to help
customers get the most out of their equipment. I wouldn't be too
surprised if they exchanged it or replaced it for minimal cost. And I'd
be outraged if they told you to drop another US$ 119.00 list or repair it
yourself!
-Jeff
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Wallace
>
> Before I attack the beast with my hundred-year supply of super-glue,
> I thought I'd ask if anyone has any experience with making such
> repairs. I know that some glues and some plastics are not compatible.
>
> am I not Dutch but it kind of messed with my photography.)
Chuck, Lexel Sillicone Caulk would probably do the trick. It's not a
glue but will stick to most anything and will seal underwater,
although the manufacturer doesn't recommend this. Worked great on my
vinyl pool liner. I used it as a temporary patch while I waited on my
local pool supply house to get some "official" underwater patch in.
The lexel has worked so well that I told them to keep their pool
stuff.
It should not affect the lens if applied carefully to the plastic
that holds the lenses in place.
Mike
Mike Wallace
>
> Thanks for your advice guys. Keep your suggestions coming!
> Has *anyone* had a similar problem?
>
> --chuck
Chuck, we sell the Mares ESA and haven't had any problems with those
that we have sold to date. Of course I am interested in your
situation because I sure don't want to recommend this mask if it is
going to be prone to breakage under ideal conditions. Also willing to
assist in any factory replacement/warranty work if I can..
Mike
=====================================
Mike Wallace Huntsville,Alabama
mwal...@ro.com [\]NAUI
Just another shitty day in paradise!
34 deg 42' N 86 deg 35' W
=====================================
Dennis & Karen Withner
Chuck Shipley wrote:
>My Mares ESA mask has sprung a leak!
As a Mares dealer I would suggest that instead of embarking on a mojor
repair project that you take the mask back to the dealer U got it from,
show him the failure, and ask him to send it back to Mares. I can
guarantee U they will replace it. While you're at it have THEM install
your diopters in the new mask.
The ESA, while being revolutionary in its design and functionality is
a tad on the fragile side and should be handled and stored with care.
A good mask box is highly reccommended. Ordering the mask with
diopters pre installed is highly reccommended.
Questions?
Dennis
><>><><><<><
Dennis Maxwell Withner MOA/IBMWRA/AIRHEADS Ham-NX7D SSI-IT #123 ANDI
Karen Lee Withner MOA/IBMWRA/AIRHEADS Ham-KA7EJO Travel Agent
Washington Divers Inc.
903 N State St, Bellingham WA 98225
ph 360-676-8029 fax 360-647-5028
~Diving Educators and Outfitters since 1973~
77' R100/7 "Educator" Carpe Beemum - (sieze the Beemer)
***********************
John 015
>Posted on 22 May 1997 at 22:50:48 by Mike Wallace
>> Before I attack the beast with my hundred-year supply of super-glue,
>> I thought I'd ask if anyone has any experience with making such
>> repairs. I know that some glues and some plastics are not compatible.
>> What should I use to repair my expensive mask?
>
>Chuck, Lexel Sillicone Caulk would probably do the trick. It's not a
>glue but will stick to most anything and will seal underwater,
>although the manufacturer doesn't recommend this. Worked great on my
>vinyl pool liner. I used it as a temporary patch while I waited on my
>local pool supply house to get some "official" underwater patch in.
>The lexel has worked so well that I told them to keep their pool
>stuff.
I didn't read the original posting so I don't know what the
exact application is (bonding, filling a hole etc. etc.)
My recommendation would have been to *try* the 3M 5200 Marine
Adhesive. It bonds to most things (but not all) and is very
strong when/if it bonds. It takes about seven days to dry.
If anyone has tried it on divemasks I'd like to know the results.
Before I knew about the 5200 I was forced to repair a mask and
I think I used GE Silicone II.
I do not know how suitable
superglue is - in the interest of science I'd say run a test.
Marine stores also carry "Life-Seal" (adhesive) that bonds to glass
and plastics. I've used it to attach optics in front of the
normal lens and those bonds have lasted many years now.
Regards,
John
Lee Bell
John 015 wrote:
> My recommendation would have been to *try* the 3M 5200 Marine
> Adhesive. It bonds to most things (but not all) and is very
> strong when/if it bonds. It takes about seven days to dry.
> If anyone has tried it on divemasks I'd like to know the results.
Close, but not exactly correct. 5200 drys hard and does not respond well to
flexing. 5100 is a better choice.
Lee
Randall C. Allen
At 11:05 AM 5/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>My Mares ESA mask has sprung a leak!
>
>lenses in the bottom panes; that is the reason I bought this mask.
Mine too!
I had/have the same mask, and the same problem. It was my favorite mask
until it started leaking around the frame over the nose. I couldn't see the
source, but others saw bubbles coming through the frame near the nose. It
was tolerable.
However, the next year the frame visibly cracked in several places after
spending most of a winter in a cool storeroom. Even one of the side lenses
has what appears to be a stress crack in it.
I've heard of others who have had problems with this mask too, but I've
heard of many who have no problem at all. If the mask is relatively new I
would try to identify the source of the leak and ask for a replacement if
it is a structural problem and the mask has no history of abuse.
Randy
It just doesn't work! http://www.utsi.com/~rca/
I press ESCAPE, http://www.searover.com/rca/scuba/
but I'm still here.... #include disclaimers.std
----------> Always err on the side of caution! <---------
Jeffrey A Charlston
Well, no big dive plans for Memorial Day weekend (that's an American
holiday for those of you who have not yet joined our cultural empire)- but
I did just volunteer as a guinea pig. They're chamber diving the Halcyon
unit to establish safe profiles.... at least I'll already be in a
chamber. Probably the only way I'll ever get to try such an expensive
gizmo, should be educational. Testing is being done in Ft. Eustis,
Virginia. They're diving two sacrifices, uh, volunteer divers, each day
for a week in this test series. Profile is reported to be to 99
feet/4atm, bicycle at 8mph to raise circulation, ascend to 33, bicycle
again, surface. Some 1atm work as well, probably to establish a baseline.
Thought the list might find it interesting, I'll report if I survive :)
Gee, does PADI have a human experimental test subject diver specialty?
-Jeff
-------------------------------------------------------------------------