FOLKLOR: Origin and History of the Hungarian Dress [last part]
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Emese Kerkay
http://www.magyar.org/ahfc/museum/viselet.html
The ködmön also has its roots in Asia, where it is still widely worn. It
is a coat made of the skin of the Hungarian racka-sheep. The ködmön
richly decorated with embroidery and leather applique was and is favored
by men and women alike in every part of Hungary. King Kálmán (1100-1116)
prohibited by law that priest wear the extremely fancy ködmön, yet King
Mátyás (1458-1490) ordered 8000 pieces for his army. During and after the
Turkish occupation, soldiers used them as a mente, thrown over their
shoulders. The szokmány is an ancient, tightly fitting short coat of the
peasant attire. It is made of rough, home-woven frieze or szűr-felt, dyed
brown, gray or black. Most probably this garment was introduced in
Europe by the Hungarians. Today it is mainly worn in Transylvania.
Beside the above mentioned overcoats, the Hungarians also brought to
Europe the SHIRT and GATYA (pleated linen trousers). The man's shirt was
made of straight cut linen pieces like the one from Kalotaszeg. The gatya
is heavily pleated at the waist and favored by the Hungarian peasant
everywhere, especially in summer.
At the time of the conquest the women wore long under and upper shirts
fastened with a belt. The pleated skirt was added in the 13th century.
A peasant woman's attire consisted of, a shirt, several petticoats,
pleated skirt, embroidered vest, apron and large kerchief, belt,
headdress, footwear (boots, shoes, slippers), handkerchief and jewelry.
The most beautiful and ancient type folk costume was preserved by
the Hungarian people of Kalotaszeg, Transylvania (cover picture). One
thousand years ago it was used not only in Transylvania but probably
everywhere in Hungary. It is the attire of an ancient horsemen culture.
Even the skirts (muszuly) of the women were designed for riding. The
costume is unique in cut, construction, line and color composition, and
cannot be compared to any other European clothing. Over the centuries all
influence for change was rejected. We can be thankful to the people of
Kalotaszeg who preserved a piece of the Hungarian past of long ago.
Emese Kerkay
Used literature: Undi Mária, Hungarian Fancy Needlework and Weaving,
Budapest
http://www.magyar.org/ahfc/museum/viselet.html