[BC] Best LED front lights for use with dynamos
Ian Collier
So I've been browsing around, and while I've seen lots of discussion of recent developments high output LED lights for use with rechargable batteries, I haven't seen nearly so much about LEDs for use with dynamos. Perhaps my google skills are withering.
I've seen references to the B&M DLumotec but they appear to be a couple of years old now - and don't seem to be super bright (part of my commute is on unlit roads). Also the Inoled, which sounds brighter but I'm not sure is available in the UK.
What have I missed and what are people's experiences with those lights.?
Thanks,
--Ian
Eric Vann
There is a U.K. brand called SOLIDLIGHTS. Try their website.
On Mar 6, 8:17 am, Ian Collier <ianpcoll...@gmail.com> wrote:
> What have I missed and what are people's experiences with those lights.?
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I have used the Inoled 20 and found it not nearly bright enough. The
beam pattern is very wide but does not extend forward enough for my
liking. Which is a pity because it's well designed and has some good
features. Maybe if the next model uses a Cree or Seoul Semiconductors
LED this brand could be very good.
I'd say the next generation of LED bike lamps should be released in the
near future now that the next generation of brighter LED technology is
available. For now most people keen for a Dynamo driven LED lighting
setup are rolling their own. If you're keen to have a go at it I could
describe some of my own experiences/mistakes for you.
Francis Cooke
IC> What have I missed
The Solidlights 2x3W led light is widely regarded (in the UK) as THE
perfect companion for the Schmidt or Shimano hubs.
http://www.solidlights.co.uk/products/1203d.php
I'd say its more of an open-road light than a commuter light, but it
does include a standlight which is pretty essential if you are
going to use a generator on an (urban) commuting bike.
--
Best regards,
Francis mailto:fra...@aukadia.net
Guenther Schwarz
Ian Collier wrote:
> So I've been browsing around, and while I've seen lots of discussion of
> recent developments high output LED lights for use with rechargable
> batteries, I haven't seen nearly so much about LEDs for use with dynamos.
> Perhaps my google skills are withering.
Try Peter Whites excellent pages for an overview and a good discussion of the
most important ones.
> I've seen references to the B&M DLumotec but they appear to be a couple of
> years old now - and don't seem to be super bright (part of my commute is on
> unlit roads). Also the Inoled, which sounds brighter but I'm not sure is
> available in the UK.
I would not exclude the Schmidt E6 just because it is a halogen light. For
commuting the very solid and sealed housing result in an extremely reliable
piece of equipment. Bulb lifetime is an issue, but depends on various
conditions. Actually I do not remember when I did the last replacement. The
unique voltage limiting circuit of the E6 also help to extend bulb life.
I complemented it with a simple standlight made of a Vistalite front marker
light (LED, single rectifier diode, Goldcap capacitor, some resistors). To my
surprise my poor solder joints now work for several years without trouble.
Günther
Jack Brown.
Guenther Schwarz wrote:
> > I would not exclude the Schmidt E6 just because it is a halogen light.
Im sorry to disagree with someone I have a lot of respect for... but
having used halogen in Bisy.. it was sufficient for only 10-20 hrs,
before dimming and with the risk of a bulb failiure is'nt worth the
effort.
I have since used Ever Led in the Bisy and it is far superiour but
still lacking in light output, being only 1W. I do commute daily on
unlit roads and have used it for 2 years. I would buy the Solid Light
but for the Ugly box design, but am sure the other manufacturers will
come up with something for next winter...to hang BELOW the handlebars
!!!
Dynamo lighting with Led is the only way to go.............
Just my opinon FWIW.
Anthony King
I've used the D Lumotec and the Inoled and been happy. They both have standlights, very nice beams and are more than adequate for commuting. I have a customer that lives in Little Rock on the top of a long, steep hill who uses the Inoled 20+ and doesn't outrun the beam at 35mph. I use the 10+ in the flat Dallas area and am quite satisfied.
Anthony
--
Trinity Bicycles
437 E. Pioneer Dr. #160
Irving, TX 75061
972.721.7090 p
972.721.7050 f
trinitybicycles.com
Peter White
Jack Brown. wrote:
> Guenther Schwarz wrote:
>
>>> I would not exclude the Schmidt E6 just because it is a halogen light.
>
> Im sorry to disagree with someone I have a lot of respect for... but
> having used halogen in Bisy.. it was sufficient for only 10-20 hrs,
> before dimming and with the risk of a bulb failiure is'nt worth the
> effort.
The BiSy isn't the E6. Only the optics are the same. Nothing else is the
same, not even close. So, you're actually not disagreeing with Guenther,
you're misunderstanding him. ;-)
--
Peter Jon White
Peter White Cycles
24 Hall Rd.
Hillsborough, NH 03244
603 478 0900 Phone
603 478 0902 Phax
Ian Boehm
>
> The Solidlights 2x3W led light is widely regarded (in the UK)
> as THE perfect companion for the Schmidt or Shimano hubs.
> http://www.solidlights.co.uk/products/1203d.php
Hmmmmm
Francis, I'm a bit surprised that the 1203d is regarded as the PERFECT
companion. My adjective would be "best available". That said, I've
never used one or seen it one in action and base my assessment on
Solidlight's own descriptions.
From what I've read they use commercial symmetrical optical systems
which illuminate rather more of the lower branches of trees than is
necessary thus largely squandering the advantages conferred by the LEDs.
For the price tag I'd like to see something that plonked light just
where it is needed i.e. on the road with some useful spill onto the
verges. I assume you've seen or used one so am I being a bit precious or
do they waste a lot of the light?
Call me an old stick-in-the-mud but I don't give a toss about the
nocturnal activities of our arboreal friends like birds, possums,
dropbears and the like.
Aaaaagh did someone say dropb
Anthony King
On Tue, 6 Mar 2007, Anthony King wrote:
I have mixed feelings about the Inoled 20+. The optics are superb --
it is the best beam I've seen from an LED, possibly better than even
the E6. However, the electronics were troublesome. I couldn't turn
mine off.
Chip,
I agree. The electronics of the Inoleds on my personal bikes have been just fine, but I've had a couple of problems with customer's lights in the past. However, Inoled has reworked the innards on both the 10+ and 20+ to correct the problems. Peter White says there have been no problems so far with the new, reworked batch, and I hope this remains the case because it produces a fantastic beam.
As an aside, why would you ever want to turn an LED on and off? One of the things I most love about mine is that it functions as a daytime running light. One less thing to mess with and added visibility during the day. Sure, it will burn out sometime and I could fry the light. But let's face it, even though I just entered my thirties, I'm far more likely to burn out before the bulb does.
Anthony
Peter White
Ian Boehm wrote:
>
>> The Solidlights 2x3W led light is widely regarded (in the UK)
>> as THE perfect companion for the Schmidt or Shimano hubs.
>> http://www.solidlights.co.uk/products/1203d.php
>
> Hmmmmm
>
> Francis, I'm a bit surprised that the 1203d is regarded as the PERFECT
> companion. My adjective would be "best available". That said, I've
> never used one or seen it one in action and base my assessment on
> Solidlight's own descriptions.
>
>>From what I've read they use commercial symmetrical optical systems
> which illuminate rather more of the lower branches of trees than is
> necessary thus largely squandering the advantages conferred by the LEDs.
> For the price tag I'd like to see something that plonked light just
> where it is needed i.e. on the road with some useful spill onto the
> verges. I assume you've seen or used one so am I being a bit precious or
> do they waste a lot of the light?
>
If you aim the Solidlights high enough to give you useful light at a
distance, you're wasting almost half of the total output.
The Busch & Müller LED headlights put almost all of the focused light on
the pavement where it can actually do you some good.
The Inolights put all of it on the pavement.
--
Peter Jon White
Peter White Cycles
24 Hall Rd.
Hillsborough, NH 03244
603 478 0900 Phone
603 478 0902 Phax
Joe Gross
On Tue, Mar 06, 2007 at 07:36:47PM -0500, Peter White wrote:
>
> If you aim the Solidlights high enough to give you useful light at a
> distance, you're wasting almost half of the total output.
>
>
> The Inolights put all of it on the pavement.
It would be undeniably awesome if Schmidt were to produce an upgraded
reflector that had a Cree XR-E pair inside that users can just plug
into their existing E6 assembly. The few that members of this list
have put together look great.
They'd sell a whole lot of them to PBP riders if they could get them
out in the next few months.
Peter, have you heard anything from Schmidt about plans for an LED
version? Any way you can make the suggestion to them?
Joe
bc-...@pardo.net
>[I don't care about lighting the trees...]
Milt Raymond points out stray light reflected from nearby tends to close
your iris, thus reducing the effectiveness of the photons coming back at
you from far away.
Similarly, my experience is a bright narrow spot on a winding road is
worse than a dim narrow spot on the same road, as the light illuminates
what is off the side of the road and keeps me from seeing where I am
going.
Guenther Schwarz
Jack Brown wrote:
> Guenther Schwarz wrote:
> > > I would not exclude the Schmidt E6 just because it is a halogen light.
>
> Im sorry to disagree with someone I have a lot of respect for... but
> having used halogen in Bisy.. it was sufficient for only 10-20 hrs,
> before dimming and with the risk of a bulb failiure is'nt worth the
> effort.
A blown bulb is a minor incident and a replacement is done in seconds with the
E6 (for the Bisy one needs to have a srewdriver at hand). Quality of halogen
bulbs varies. I'm quite happy with 3W HPR64 versions from Philips.
Commuting is going day by day in all weather conditions with minimal time
spent for maintenance. This is were superior mechanical built will be a top
priority for some. I won't claim here that for example the DLumotec is an
unreliable product. But if compairing the two lights side by side the
differences are obvious. No question which one is more likely to survive five
or ten years of commuting.
> I have since used Ever Led in the Bisy and it is far superiour but
> still lacking in light output, being only 1W.
The Everled does not match the geometry of a HS3 or HPR64 bulb. Light output
will be poor not due to insufficient electrical power but due to a less than
ideal combination of reflector and light source.
> I do commute daily on
> unlit roads and have used it for 2 years. I would buy the Solid Light
> but for the Ugly box design, but am sure the other manufacturers will
> come up with something for next winter...to hang BELOW the handlebars
> !!!
I don't have experience with the Solid Light but Andreas Oehler was very
unhappy with the beam shape. Maybe he wants to comment himself.
> Dynamo lighting with Led is the only way to go.............
No question that this is the future. But for the time being the LED lights I
have some experience with (DLumotec and Inloed 10+) are not superior to a
well made halogen light. I described a DIY light with two Cree XR-E on this
list some days ago that indeed is better than the E6. But you can't buy this
in a shop. As design and production of optical elements are more expensive
than that of e.g. circuitry I do not expect a commercial products with
similar or better characteristics in the near future. I would buy such a
light rather than building it myself, indeed. I also would be very pleased if
this was constructed and manufactured with the same level of sophistication
and attention to details as the E6. Until then I will have to live with my
own poor solder joints (the Cree XR-E turned out to be hard to make contacts
to) and a rectifier wrapped in Duck tape that probably won't make it through
the first day of heavy rain.
Günther
Jack Brown.
Peter Jon White wrote:
>
> Jack Brown. wrote:
> > Guenther Schwarz wrote:
> >
> >>> I would not exclude the Schmidt E6 just because it is a halogen light.
> >
Im sorry to disagree with someone I have a lot of respect for... but
having used halogen in Bisy.. it was sufficient for only 10-20 hrs,
before dimming and with the risk of a bulb failiure is'nt worth the
effort.
>
> The BiSy isn't the E6. Only the optics are the same. Nothing else is the
>
> same, not even close. So, you're actually not disagreeing with Guenther,
>
> you're misunderstanding him. ;-)
1. Peter, Please explain to me what you think is different between the
Bisy and the E6 apart from the reed switch and housing.
2. Guenthers follow up saying a blown bulb is just an inconvenience is
underestimating the potential danger ie, traveling down a hill at 30mph
on unlit roads.. aaahh splat!! - not to mention your rear light
loosing the magic smoke as a consequence, which has happened to me,
although B&M kindly replaced it free of charge.
Francis Cooke
>> Could they make that Stronglight a little more blocky?
Solidlight. Well I agree - but its smaller than it looks in some
photos - the frontal area is much smaller than a Cateye EL500, for
example. And there is a definite sector of the cycling community that
appreciates the 'cottage industry' look.
IB> Francis, I'm a bit surprised that the 1203d is regarded as the PERFECT
IB> companion.
I've never used one. I find battery lights more fun.
But this 1203d gets near-universal high approval among the randonneur
community in the UK. One of its assets is that it utilises the
constant-current rising-voltage characteristic of the Schmidt in an
intelligent way - no manual switching of the second light required.
IB> From what I've read they use commercial symmetrical optical systems
IB> which illuminate rather more of the lower branches of trees than is
IB> necessary thus largely squandering the advantages conferred by the LEDs.
Yes, to get the best on an unlit road you do have to point it
downwards a bit more than you might expect. OTOH the original post
was about a commuting setup, where I assume that visibility on lit
roads is at least as important as beam-throwing on a dark road - in
this situation it might not be appropriate to point it down so much.
(Personally I'd use a battery light optimised for visibility purpose,
in a commuting situation - but that wasn't up for discussion.)
IB> For the price tag I'd like to see something that plonked light just
IB> where it is needed i.e. on the road with some useful spill onto the
IB> verges.
A shaped beam is all about economical use of limited power - but if
you've got a lot of light, why not flaunt it? ;-)
IB> I assume you've seen or used one so am I being a bit precious or
IB> do they waste a lot of the light?
It is true the beam is not shaped - I merely pass on the very high
approval rating that it gets from users - even at the price tag, this
light sells like hot cakes at present, here in the UK.
Francis
Peter White
Joe Gross wrote:
> On Tue, Mar 06, 2007 at 07:36:47PM -0500, Peter White wrote:
>> If you aim the Solidlights high enough to give you useful light at a
>> distance, you're wasting almost half of the total output.
>>
>> The Busch & M?ller LED headlights put almost all of the focused light on
>> the pavement where it can actually do you some good.
>>
>> The Inolights put all of it on the pavement.
>
> It would be undeniably awesome if Schmidt were to produce an upgraded
> reflector that had a Cree XR-E pair inside that users can just plug
> into their existing E6 assembly. The few that members of this list
> have put together look great.
>
> They'd sell a whole lot of them to PBP riders if they could get them
> out in the next few months.
>
> Peter, have you heard anything from Schmidt about plans for an LED
> version? Any way you can make the suggestion to them?
Andreas Oehler works with Wilfried Schmidt and is directly involved with
the design, development, testing and production of their products. He's
on this list and will see your post.
--
Peter Jon White
Peter White Cycles
24 Hall Rd.
Hillsborough, NH 03244
603 478 0900 Phone
603 478 0902 Phax
ANDREAS...@gmx.de
on Thu, 8 Mar 2007 19:56:17 +0000, Jack Brown. wrote:
>
>1. Peter, Please explain to me what you think is different between the
>Bisy and the E6 apart from the reed switch and housing.
The housing is a lot more robust. Most Bisys die from a broken housing.
The voltage limitation diodes in the BISY were not so perfect connected
and not very good cooled. When using 2.4W bulbs without a rear light
voltage can rise up to 8.5 Volt, which will shorten the lifetime
dramatically, The E6 has an "effictive voltage limiter" which limits the
TRMS-voltage to about 6.8 Volt.
>2. Guenthers follow up saying a blown bulb is just an inconvenience is
>underestimating the potential danger ie, traveling down a hill at 30mph
>on unlit roads.. aaahh splat!!
It is very rare that bicycle halogen bulbs blow while hot. Most die when
switching the light on.
> - not to mention your rear light
>loosing the magic smoke as a consequence, which has happened to me,
>although B&M kindly replaced it free of charge.
Which sound like a defective voltage limiter in the front light - qed.
Andreas
Guenther Schwarz
Jack Brown wrote:
> Peter Jon White wrote:
> > The BiSy isn't the E6. Only the optics are the same. Nothing else is the
> > same, not even close. So, you're actually not disagreeing with Guenther,
> > you're misunderstanding him. ;-)
>
> 1. Peter, Please explain to me what you think is different between the
> Bisy and the E6 apart from the reed switch and housing.
Well, my name is not Peter, but still:
- The only part in common between the Bisy and the E6 is, apart from the
bulb, the plastic reflector.
- solid metal housing, waterprotected with sealed electronics
- connector for tail light
- reed switch
- Clever bulb fitting with two helical springs. In many other dynamo
lights the leaf spring making contact to the base tip fails after some years
resulting in nasty contact problems.
- Clever analog voltage limiter based on a power transistor. In fact it
is the only halogen dynamo light that works perfectly with or without
a bulb :-)
- This means that a tail light is not in risk of being fried if the front
bulb blows.
- five years warranty
> 2. Guenthers follow up saying a blown bulb is just an inconvenience is
> underestimating the potential danger ie, traveling down a hill at 30mph
> on unlit roads.. aaahh splat!!
If this was a major problem motorcycle accidents involving blown bulbs had to
be common. They are as unheard of as similar accidents with cyclists. Yes, it
is a potential risk. But in order to be on the save side one should have a
fallback system with any bike light [1]. Battery operated ones might brake
down suddenly also. Could be blown bulbs or HID tubes, bad contacts, failing
batteries or blown fuses, or simply a flimsy plastic mount breaking.
> - not to mention your rear light
> loosing the magic smoke as a consequence, which has happened to me,
> although B&M kindly replaced it free of charge.
This wont't happen with the E6.
[1] The most simple one is to have a Cateye HL-EL500 or such on the
handlebars. With a dynamo system one might run two lights in series. If one
bulb blows current will still flow through the voltage limiting diode or, in
case of the E6, through the transistor.
Günther
Alan Braggins
Guenther Schwarz wrote:
> Jack Brown wrote:
>> 2. Guenthers follow up saying a blown bulb is just an inconvenience is
>> underestimating the potential danger ie, traveling down a hill at 30mph
>> on unlit roads.. aaahh splat!!
>
> If this was a major problem motorcycle accidents involving blown bulbs had to
> be common.
How many motorcycle headlights are driven by dynamos, with no regulator?
That the risk of a bulb blowing while warmed up is small doesn't change
the consequences if it does.
Andy Marchant-Shapiro
True enough. But a parts failure, either in the LED or in the board can
result in LED lights dying while riding too. In fact, a number of those
incidents have been reported here. Just because the probability is smaller
doedsn't mean it doesn't happen.
Michel Gagnon
bc-...@pardo.net a inscrit / wrote :
>> [I don't care about lighting the trees...]
>>
>
> Similarly, my experience is a bright narrow spot on a winding road is
> worse than a dim narrow spot on the same road, as the light illuminates
> what is off the side of the road and keeps me from seeing where I am
> going
Sorry to get away from light sources, but what about a bracket that
would be sturdy, keep the light permanently attached to the bike, but
that will allow one to turn the light 10-20 degrees off axis if
necessary? Many battery headlights use that kind of attachment, albeit
with a quick release, alas.
--
Michel Gagnon mailto:mic...@MGagnon.net
Montréal (Québec, Canada) http://mgagnon.net
John Laidlaw
Has any one considered WHERE the light is mounted?
I've noted that handle-bar mountings tend to put the light just at the
eye-level of oncoming motorists. With the advent of effective LED's, this
puts the light just where it does most damage to their vision, without
really getting more on the road for us. the inverse-square law points out
that effective illumination drops off dramatically with distance. I've
devised a bracket that mounts the lamp(s) just to the left of the front fork
crown. It's not perfect, I grant. If I were shipping front panniers, I'd
need to devise a mounting that was across the front of that - probably a
better design.
John Laidlaw
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Gagnon" <mic...@mGagnon.net>
To: <bikec...@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 5:38 AM
Subject: Re: [BC] Best LED front lights for use with dynamos
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3:42 PM
jake Kassen
John Laidlaw wrote:
>
> Has any one considered WHERE the light is mounted?
> I've noted that handle-bar mountings tend to put the light just at the
> eye-level of oncoming motorists. With the advent of effective LED's,
> this puts the light just where it does most damage to their vision,
> without really getting more on the road for us. the inverse-square law
I think this list discussed this before or perhaps it was the Randon list.
Anyway, I don't think that handlebar lights, even incorrectly aimed,
don't pose any real safety risk to oncoming motorists. If anything else
I want oncoming cars to quickly notice my light. Speaking as someone who
commutes daily in a city with many other bike commuters (Boston), I
frequently pass people with ultra-bright handlebar lights that are aimed
higher then they should be. While I notice these people, the light has
never blinded me or caused me to lose any more night vision then the
normal headlights of any other car would. For me (both as a cyclist and
when I rent a car), the bright "colored" headlights that some cars have
are much, much worst and unsafe. LED bike lights are just too small.
Of course, group night riding is another story and I find it helpful to
have lights I can quickly position downward to avoid annoying those who
I am riding with. This is more of an issue with taillights.
As for utility of placement of lights, I generally mount mine on the
handlebars to aid in quick removal to switch between bikes. I might lose
some valuable throw or range by doing this, but the lights are bright
enough for me not to be concerned. (And I ride relatively slow.)
Jake
Francis Cooke
JL> I've noted that handle-bar mountings tend to put the light just at the
JL> eye-level of oncoming motorists. With the advent of effective LED's, this
JL> puts the light just where it does most damage to their vision,
I would have thought that the higher the light is mounted, the more
you have to angle it downwards and therefore the kinder it will be to
oncoming traffic (if you really want to be kind to oncomers ;-)
I find handlebar mounting ideal, although I know a lot of people
prefer a lower mount because it shows the road in more relief.
Also I'm not sure the inverse square law strictly applies when we're
considering a light source directed via a lens and/or reflector.
Francis
Gregory Leblanc
[snip]
> Also I'm not sure the inverse square law strictly applies when we're
> considering a light source directed via a lens and/or reflector.
According to the Optics major who lives with me, the inverse square
law does apply to intensity from Lambertian light sources, but does
not apply when using a collimated light source, such as a bicycle
headlight.
Greg
Bob Sutterfield
If you're using a light to see, put it down on the fork near the hub.
The lower angle will exaggerate relief in the surface ahead. If
you're using a light to be seen, put it on the handlebar at most
motorists' eye level. My 12V MR11-C bulbs are bright enough, and cast
a broad enough beam, to accomplish both vision and visibility from the
handlebar.
When I'm standing at an intersection I either turn off my headlamp, or
angle my front wheel so I'm not casting glare into the mirrors of the
cars ahead.
Mike Wilson
If you have an E6 secondary light, that bulb gets switched on and off
for each slow uphill. I have used mine for about 30 rides now, and it
just died.
Unlike a battery light, where I turn it on before I start, so I will
know before I start if I have an issue, this failure I did not detect
until I hit the main road. At -14C, +7F temperature, I was NOT inclined
to stop and fix. So I did the 15 miles without it.
LED is what I want with my Schmidt, thanks. Not a bulb that needs
replacing every 6 weeks. With a battery I could tolerate the bulb,
because I would be turning it on in the house or in the workplace and
could swap the bulb when I was warm. On the road bulb replacement is
something I left behind around 1988 when I stopped using the Sturmey
Dynohubs.
Tonight I try Chip Coldwell's Inoled 20.
Some of us commuters want a light to be seen and to see. From the
streets beside the overlit shopping plaza to the shaded unlit paved
descents.
Michael Wilson
Pawel Danielewicz
I have been riding with halogen lamps for 8 years+, ~6 mos out of a
year, 5 days per week, 45 min/ride. In the last 6 years, for which I
have more detailed records, I have burnt a halogen bulb once. My recent
limiter has been limiting the rms power, being likely functionally
equivalent to that of E6. After I've broken the mount of Bisy, I glued
it back over locking the bulb inside. The ability to change the bulb
has been of marginal importance. At the burnout level I have
encountered, knocking the lamp or breaking or disconnecting supply cable
(>once/year) become far more important and those won't change with
switching to an LED.
Otherwise, my interest in an LED front lamp is only to the extent that
it can provide a better illumination than a halogen. That interest, on
its own, remains for me peripheral, because halogen's illumination/power
performance has been fully adequate for me. Have I been riding dark and
wide country roads, I might have an interest in broader illumination
angles than that provided by the Bisy or E6.
Pawel Danielewicz
Mike Wilson
Pawel's bulb failure rate - 1 in 4 years - is about the rate at which I blow taillight incandescent bulbs. WAY better than headlight bulbs, and no incentive to change to LED. The headlight incandescent battery powered would fail about every 100 starts. I used to average 18 mph with a peak around 35 mph downhill. Half street-lit, half unlit.
I am doing this 4 days per week 52 weeks per year (the 4 is an average based on holidays and the occaisional drive).
Michael Wilson
------------------
From: Pawel Danielewicz [mailto:dani...@msu.edu]
I have been riding with halogen lamps for 8 years+, ~6 mos out of a
year, 5 days per week, 45 min/ride. In the last 6 years, for which I
have more detailed records, I have burnt a halogen bulb once. My recent
limiter has been limiting the rms power, being likely functionally
equivalent to that of E6. After I've broken the mount of Bisy, I glued
it back over locking the bulb inside. The ability to change the bulb
has been of marginal importance. At the burnout level I have
encountered, knocking the lamp or breaking or disconnecting supply cable
(>once/year) become far more important and those won't change with
switching to an LED.
Otherwise, my interest in an LED front lamp is only to the extent that
it can provide a better illumination than a halogen. That interest, on
its own, remains for me peripheral, because halogen's illumination/power
performance has been fully adequate for me. Have I been riding dark and
wide country roads, I might have an interest in broader illumination
angles than that provided by the Bisy or E6.
Pawel Danielewicz
Mike Wilson
I have read the claim that going up hill you do not need as much light as going down.
However it is much easier to see and ride around the ice patches on the ascent if you have more light. My SON and DLumotec are not adequate to see my driveway ice patches; my L&M Arc is. If I go over the ice patch, the rear wheel spins and the bike stops. Not a disaster, but I want to be riding.
If I ever get my act together on a SON light setup, it will have a small battery charged by the SON, so I can get full light power even uphill. Preferably not incandescent so switching on & off will not kill bulbs.
But I do like that Schmidt E6 beam. Wonderful fog light actually.
Michael Wilson
Andy Marchant-Shapiro
Hmm. I've never used two lights in series, nor do I have an E6, but I've
run with BiSys and Lumotecs for several years, both running on LiIons
(initially) and from a Shimano dynohub (the last couple of years) and the
few experiences I've had with bulb burnout have been while starting from a
standing stop (or while switching on the batteries). The bulbs certainly
last long enough for me, with a 45-minute daily start/stop commute in the
dark. And I've changed the Lumotec (once) when it was well below
freezing--it's very easy, and I've heard the E6 is even easier. I DO wish
that there was a place in the light housing to keep the spare, so I wouldn't
have to go for my flat kit.
Guenther Schwarz
Mike Wilson wrote:
> I have read the claim that going up hill you do not need as much light as
> going down.
This will be the case indeed in many situations. My main concern when climbing
with a very dim light are cars in oncoming traffic overtaking on my lane.
> However it is much easier to see and ride around the ice patches on the
> ascent if you have more light. My SON and DLumotec are not adequate to see
> my driveway ice patches; my L&M Arc is.
How slow are you riding in this situation? The DLomutec is brighter at very
slow speeds than a halogen light.
Last winter I missed a spot of black ice with an LED light. My impression was
that the specific color spectrum contributed to this somehow. Halogen light
seems to be better in this situation. But it might well be just a question of
getting used to.
Günther
ANDREAS...@gmx.de
on Fri, 09 Mar 2007 10:50:43 +0000, Alan Braggins wrote:
>
>How many motorcycle headlights are driven by dynamos, with no regulator?
>That the risk of a bulb blowing while warmed up is small doesn't change
>the consequences if it does.
Millions of people are using dynamo driven headlights at night. Please
report some known cases of dangerous situations caused by blown bulbs at
high speed.
There are so much more dangerous things in life... Some people even
consider using motoriced vehicles!
Andreas
Jonathan Edelson
At 05:28 PM 3/9/2007, Gregory Leblanc wrote:
>
>According to the Optics major who lives with me, the inverse square
>law does apply to intensity from Lambertian light sources, but does
>not apply when using a collimated light source, such as a bicycle
>headlight.
I slightly better way to think of it:
The inverse square law applies, but distances must be measured from a
'virtual source' created by the optical system. This point of
measurement may be well behind the light in question.
-Jon
Jacques Bilinski
> The inverse square law applies, but distances must be measured from a
> 'virtual source' created by the optical system. This point of
> measurement may be well behind the light in question.
>
The qustion is can the virtual light source be behind infinitly behind
the light in question? :)
Jonathan Edelson
At 08:51 AM 3/11/2007, Jacques Bilinski wrote:
>
>The qustion is can the virtual light source be behind infinitly behind
>the light in question? :)
Yes. Think laser :)
I should also add that the inverse square law is itself an
approximation that presumes a _point_ source.
Consider an infinite plane that is a light source. The light
intensity would be _constant_ no matter what the distance from the
plane. From an infinite _line_ source, light intensity follows an
inverse (1/distance) law.
The inverse square law is an approximation that holds well when the
distance from the source is larger than the size of the source.
-Jon
Mike Wilson
I used the Inoled 20+ Friday with no other front light.
When aimed high it worked quite well in low-light conditions. Better
than the E6 I think, but with the E6 I may have had too much close light
from the Lumotec for a proper comparison. Also it seemed more tolerant
of half-minute speed reductions for the hills, something I could also
fix with a battery backup for incandescent.
But I like it. No shaded descents or descents over 35 mph yet, but
those typically do not bother me (stupidity rules here).
The claim in my previous mail about DLumotec was in error; it is a
Lumotec not DLumotec. The issue there is both distance and brightness.
I am used to planning ahead while driving or riding. I would rather see
far ahead and not see the close 15 feet than the reverse.
I have not really had issues detecting ice with the HID light; I was
assuming that LED would be similar.
Michael Wilson