Climbingconsists of two different skill sets: thinking, where you can use the intelligence of your mind to prepare well, and doing, which is shifting your attention out of the thinking mode into your body to do the actual climbing. The core theme of this approach to climbing is really about your attention and what you are doing with it.
One of the many cartoons found throughout Espresso Lessons used to illustrate its lessons. Ilgner uses a couple in counseling to demonstrate the conflicting thoughts and emotions of climbers. [Illustration] Arno Ilgner
We could be stumped by a certain problem on a climb, but we keep doing the same sequence over and over instead of modifying it. A modifying rather than a validating approach to climbing is a way of embracing the learning process.
In ice climbing and mountaineering, you need to prepare by understanding your decision making points, where the risks are, when the risk-zones end and what you can do to minimize the consequences, just as you would in rock climbing. From that preparation, you can make appropriate risk decisions.
You also have more objective dangers in ice climbing and mountaineering than you do in rock climbing. In addition to the other steps you have to include these other elements, like avalanches and weather conditions, so that you can make an appropriate risk decision. You have to make sure you have collected everything you need to collect in order to make a decision.
In other words, when coaches teach practicing falling, they start with lead falls rather than progressing to lead falls. What occurs when you start with this is that it takes the student a while to let go of the rock and then they tense up during the fall. They really need to learn how to relax when falling. They need to be soft and responsive on impact, not tense. This kind of coaching is causing students to learn poor habits.
Arno Ilgner with a few of his students in an Espresso Clinic workshop at the Boulder Rock Club in Boulder, Colorado. Ilgner tested his material on hundreds of students before refining them down into the processes now found in his books. [Photo] Arno Ilgner collection
Mental training is scarcely covered in climbing literature, yet it is as important to performance as strength, flexibility, and technique. In his unique approach to mental training, Arno Ilgner draws essential elements from the rich "warrior" literature, as well as from sports psychology, and combines these with his extensive climbing experience to create The Rock Warrior's Way. Here is a comprehensive program to learn how to focus your mental resources during a challenging climb.
To prepare for this literary giant, I decided to familiarize myself with the concept of "Rock Warriors" so I would presumably understand the backstory leading up to this complex tale. Having studied Computer Science in college, I believed myself to be way out of my depth when it came to Rock Warrior knowledge. If you were to come up to me on the street and ask if I knew the favorite pastime of a Rock Warrior, do you know how I would respond? I would probably punch you in the mouth and walk away. While this doesn't really illustrate my poor knowledge of Rock Warriors, it does show that you should be careful what you say to random people on the street.
I searched on Google for "Rock Warriors", and I was unpleasantly surprised by the scarce results. Although Google was able to pull up roughly 147,000 entries, it didn't seem as if a single one of them pertained to the Rock Warriors eluded to in this book. Here were the closest entries I could find:
While this plucky band of strapping young lads definitely did seem to embody the spirit of "warriors" (notice the destroyed city surrounding them), a closer inspection will reveal that not a single one of them is made of rock! Obviously this band is merely attempting to capitalize on the Rock Warrior fad of the Internet, and I wouldn't recommend anybody to purchase this low-quality recording (despite the fact that they have a song entitled "Street corner talkin'").
Once again, Google returned another band shamelessly trying to reap their ill-gotten gains through false advertising. The "Hentai Warriors", who appear to have enlisted the services of Howard Stern / Loonyboi (left), are quite the talented assortment of musicians. Be sure to check out their band's webpage on
mp3.com, which includes such wonderful song descriptions as "This one is our power ballad, it's about how difficult it can be when you have a broken heart and the flame still burns./Esta cancion es nuestra power ballad, se trata sobre un corazon roto." Rock and roll transcends all languages, folks. The universal theme of "rocking out" speaks to the HEART.
Davina Robinson is passionate about rock music, so she honours that and forges ahead, rather than bowing down to any trends. And the trick is, when you do something with that spirit, it ends up working. She has promoted herself with the DIY spirit, gaining a large following that continues to grow, and I hope this piece contributes to that following over time.
We AreIndependent Music Promotions is a highly respected music PR and music marketing company. We have spent years building our music industry contacts, which allows us to promote our clients in the most relevant, niche-appropriate outlets.
Mental training is scarcely covered in the climbing literature, yet it is as important to performance as strength, flexibility, and technique. In his unique approach to mental training, Arno Ilgner draws essential elements from the rich "warrior" literature, as well as from sports psychology, and combines these with his extensive climbing experience to create The Warrior's Way .
Here is a comprehensive program for learning how to focus your mental resources during a challenging climb. It includes step-by-step guidance on motivation analysis, information gathering, risk assessment, mental focus, and deliberate transition into action.
Poor use of attention creates fear, which can manifest itself as anything from performance anxiety to sheer terror. By using attention more purposefully we can understand how fear is created, deal with it effectively, and free ourselves to get back in touch with a far more powerful motivating force: our love of climbing. We can then create the kind of unbending intention that leads to outstanding performance. The Warrior's Way is a revolutionary program for climbers who want to improve both their performance and their enjoyment of climbing.
Advanced Rockcraft is a climbing guide service located in upstate New York on the Shawangunk Ridge near the towns of New Paltz and Gardiner. Advanced Rockcraft coaches rock climbers visiting the Gunks in development of their technical, physical and mental prowess on the rock.
DescriptionProvide a brief description of the contents of the resource (1 to 5 sentences recommended). The Williams Coulee site (EcPl-16), in southwestern Alberta, is an important and strikingly visual rock art site. This article describes the rock art and offers interpretations of narrative scenes. Outside of the Writing-on-Stone region, Williams Coulee offers some of the most complete and most complex narrative scenes that are typical of Plains Biographical tradition art, but also features scenes with static anthropomorphs that bespeak of the Plains Ceremonial tradition.
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