Old Stanley Garage Door Opener Manual

[Pei Tebow]

Justbought this 2011 Edge and eveything seems to be working great regarding programming except the garage door opener sync with our Stanley door remote. Have help it close to the visor and followed the instructions to hold the button down until the lamp quits blinking then pressed it twice for 5 seconds as the owner's manual says. Still does not work.

I had a problem with one of our openers (an older one), called the help number listed in the owners manual, and they walked me through the procedure. Seeing it was an older one, I had to hold a button down for a longer period of time, don't remember when, or which button. Give them a call, They were very helpful.I had a problem with one of our openers (an older one), called the help number listed in the owners manual, and they walked me through the procedure. Seeing it was an older one, I had to hold a button down for a longer period of time, don't remember when, or which button. Give them a call, they were very helpful.

I think your missing a step. I am assuming your have a "rolling code" opener. Don't worry about what that is. When you used the the handheld opener near the visor you told the car one of the 2 things it needs to know. The next step is to tell the garage door about your car. There is probabably a little button under the light cover on the opener. I am gonna GUESS, you press that little button, then the car button, then the car button a second time.

Thanx. You got me to thinking. After researching both the Chamberlain and HomeLink websites I found my problem. If your unit has been "married" to another opener (in my case a Genie), you must hold down the two outside buttons on the HomeLink for about 20 seconds ('til it stops blinking) to clear the memory. After doing this I was able to program the Chamberlain per the instructions. :hyper:

Crusty.....you are right on the mark. I went to the website for Homelink and their instructions reflect those steps. I did that and bingo everything worked fine. Ford should mention this in it's manual. I know this mainly applies to used vehicles because the new ones have not been programmed before but the extra step is not a big deal and it would assure thatthe programming would take every time.

The Linear Corporation formerly manufactured many of the original Stanley garage door opener remote replacement parts and still has a number of remotes that are compatible with Stanley products. If you need a Stanley garage door opener remote replacement, we will be happy to assist you in confirming which part will fit your needs. Simply call us at 952-818-6633.

Before selling the company, Stanley made openers for other companies as well as, and a few of those companies have parts that are interchangeable with Stanley garage door opener replacement parts. Some of the brands manufactured by Stanley were Secure Code, Popular Mechanics, Whistler, Home Innovative, LightMaker Quiet Glide, U-install and Vemco.

When I push my inside of garage button for the door to close, the door attempts to go down, motor light flashes and door goes back up again. I had to keep holding the wall button for the door to actually go down and close.

To check for resistance, start with the door closed and pull the red handle. Then open and close the door. The movement should be fluid with no tough spots. If you encounter difficult spots, you likely have a bent track, a broken wheel, or a severe lack of track lubricant. Call a professional.

If the door opens with the opener fine, but reverses almost immediately when you try to close it, then you likely have a problem with your sensor alignment. One sensor should have a light on all the time. This is the transmitter. The other, your receiver, should light up when it has an unobstructed view of the invisible light beam the transmitter sends. It's easy to bump a sensor and move it out of alignment. Just bend it back in to position. Use the light on the receiver to help you so that you don't have to try and close the door to check your adjustments.

Both of my sensors "appeared" to be working. That is, the amber emitter would cause the green receiver to light when I had them aligned, and the green receiver would go out if I blocked the beam, so as I said, it "appeared" to be working.

The cause was corrosion on the receiver wires. Both wires were cut by a critter a few years ago. I spliced them back but moisture and weather resulted in just enough resistance on the line to provide inconsistent feedback and trigger the safety override. I cut out the bad copper and soldered a new splice which I sealed with liquid tape and all is well again.

In summary, If both sensors are lit and you get response from blocking the beam, check the green receiver wiring (the emitter would not have the same issue). With a multimeter you could look for voltage fluctuation or resistance, or just visually inspect for breaks in the line insulation and black or green copper wiring. It's much more likely the wire than the sensor so why waste the money?

I had this issue last week. The lights on the sensor were fine. The issue was finally traced to loose connections at the sensors. Disconnected the sensors, re-stripped the wires and reconnected them. Door closes fine now.

If the door can be reasonably easily opened and closed by hand, but the opener balks at closing the door, the tension setting probably needs to be increased. See the installation manual for details how to adjust it. Usually it is a nut inside the unit, or sometimes a thumbwheel.

When nothing here works...determine what is spoofing the auto reverse. I have an insulated door. Part of the sheeting over the insulation are peeling away due to excess heat (and kids pickng at it). The flap of sheeting on the lower most panel was triggering he reverse when the door got to within an inch or two from closing. Trimmed the flap of sheeting back and presto...worked every time.

Sensor lights were out (there is a green and red LED light on each sensor side). I moved an extension ladder that must have "jiggled" the wires at the ceiling corner that powers the sensors. I went up and " re-jiggled" the wires at ceiling and LED lights came on. Garage door now shuts normally. Try this if all else fails as in my case.

Both of my sensors were working (green receiver goes out only if beam blocked). I noticed one light bulb blinked when closing door. I decided to remove the bulb and give it a try. Well, the door closes fine now. I don't need the second light so I don't bother to find out if it was the bulb or the connection on the opener that caused the problem on closing.

Digi-Code's DC5030 from Action Industries is a 3-button visor style garage door opener transmitter. This visor style transmitter comes with a metal clip to conveniently attach to a cars sun visor, and is small enough to be used as a handheld device. The DC5030 operates on a 300MHz radio frequency. Use three buttons to open three separate garage doors, gate openers, or program to work with additional remote control compatible accessories. Each button operates on an individual channel to prevent interference and guarantee reliability with each press. Equipped with one set of 1,024 codes and two sets of 512 codes to avoid interference and provide reliable security.

If you live in an older home, your garage might have a Stanley garage door opener. The company stopped manufacturing new universal remotes and openers in 1997, but if you still have one at home, chances are good you will be able to find a copy of the manual online. Your chances of locating a manual are even greater if you are able to identify the model number of your unit. If you cannot, however, simple tasks, such as programming universal remotes, are fairly universal with Stanley products.

Before getting started with reprogramming your remote, you will need to find a ladder so that you can access the motor unit, which is the part hanging from the ceiling of your garage. It's best to enlist the help of another adult to spot you while you are on the ladder. Be sure the area is well lit, too.

Next, locate a button that says "Homelink" on your car remote. Hold this down until the light blinks rapidly. The light should also blink on your motor unit. Once this has occurred, it means that the remote has been saved.

To test the programmed remote, press the remote control button to determine whether it opens and closes your door. If it does not, repeat the process. If you still have difficulty, it's possible there is a problem with the batteries in your remote or that the motor unit is faulty. If changing the batteries does not resolve the issue, you might need to purchase a new system or contact a professional for repairs.

If you have multiple remotes, you can program them all in turn following the process outlined above. Press the "R" or "Learn/Teach" button on the motor unit first. Once it has blinked, press the button on the remote you wish to program. This should link the two. Continue the process until all remotes are linked.

Your garage door is equipped with photo sensors that automatically reverse the door if they detect movement beneath it. If these sensors are misaligned, obstructed, or dirty, your opener may flash continuously. Depending on the model, your opener may flash up to 10 times. If you own a Liftmaster, Craftsman, or Chamberlain model, misaligned sensors will display a yellow light, while properly aligned sensors display a green light.

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