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Iberio Ralda
Ring Jacket was the first Japanese tailoring brand to achieve serious recognition around the world, largely thanks to the promotion of The Armoury in Hong Kong and New York. There are two stores in Tokyo, in Ginza and Aoyama, and it is also stocked in Isetan.
The style is Italian and soft-shouldered, although there is a range of models (a decent reason to visit one of the standalone stores rather than just Isetan) and they also offer accessories and leather goods, all with rather Italian styling. The tailoring is well made and good value, particularly in Japan compared to imported Italian brands.
These two are worth mentioning because they are examples of how well the Japanese do the things around menswear, such as repairs. Union Works has three stores in Tokyo offering shoe repair, but also does a plethora of other work, and has a small line of clothes and accessories. Sarto, on the other hand, has grown to the point of having several branches, altering and repairing everything from suits to leather jackets, holds trunk shows with the likes of B&Tailor, and even has its own in-house shoemaker.
Vintage shopping in Japan is covered in a separate shopping guide, here. That piece includes not just central Tokyo (Harajuku) but also Koenji, the vintage-specialist area outside the centre, and places in Osaka and Kobe.
Department stores in Japan do things very well, from the brand mix to the merchandising. But one thing that will set them apart for many readers is the presence of bespoke and made-to-measure clothing, from all around the world.
Strasburgo has also tried to host more bespoke makers in house over the years, with the Sovereign House location unfortunately closing recently. It was where artisans such as shirtmaker Masanori Yamagami and tailor Noriyuki Higashi (Sartoria Raffaniello) were located. Trouser-maker Igarashi also started out here.
Having said this, on our most recent trip to Tokyo it was Beams that really stood out. I think it was because we were looking less at bespoke producers, more at retail in general, and it was a salient reminder of how much better Beams does it than anywhere else in the world.
Beams F is more tailoring and smarter clothing, while Beams Plus is more casual (and readers might be familiar with from elsewhere). While we were there the windows were full of a collaboration with LL Bean.
The non-Japanese brands often have products that are only available here too, or there are labels that are the result of licensing deals, like North Face Purple Label that is actually owned by Goldwin, the clothing conglomerate that also has its own store.
There are too many to try and recommend any specifically, but it is certainly worth trying to see Yohei Fukuda, Seiji McCarthy and Shoji Kawaguchi, the latter operating under the brand Marquess. More on them at those links, and generally on Japanese shoemakers here.
The best known is Noriyuki Ueki, who runs Sartoria Ciccio. He trained in Naples and cuts a soft-shouldered suit with a Japanese level of precision. Others include Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica and Vick Tailor. You can read more about them here.
There are a couple of workshops specialising in bespoke trousers worth highlighting: Igarashi and Osaku. Of these two, Igarashi is in the centre of Tokyo and is therefore easier to visit. Osaku works from a small town outside of the city, and comes in for appointments.
Those wishing to see traditional Japanese craft in Tokyo should consider visiting Motoji, the most famous of the kimono makers in the city. Although none of the work is done on-site (fabric is produced all round Japan, and tailoring done outside the city), the shop, its bolts of cloth and finished kimonos are a virtual museum of craft in themselves.
Cow Books, in Nakameguro, is an second-hand bookstore that specialises in the arts and counter-culture works, but also has a surprisingly large range of fashion titles, including old copies of magazines like Popeye. If you like magazines, Magnif Zinebocho on the other side of town is also worth visiting.
Like you, I adored the Tsutaya bookshop at the T-site (that whole shopping area is lovely) and is certainly my favourite bookshop in the world. On the way home from Tokyo, half my luggage was filled with bubble-wrapped Nakata hangers. It really is a destination shopping experience. So much more than anyone can possibly cover.
My tastes have moved on from most of Time Worn Clothing / At Last & Co / Butcher Products but visiting the shop was a great experience, perhaps helped by the staff member who used to work at Vintage Showroom in London being there (circa 2018).
Whilst there one of your readers from London popped in to also buy something (Hi Sam). We had a lovely chat while being serviced. I showed them specific images of what I was looking for while Sam appeared content to let them decide what suited him best. An hour later I left feeling joyful, which is unusual for me. All good people.
As an idea for next time: maybe focus on a route instead of just listing up shops? Aoyama to Meguro is a bit of a stretch, whereas you can easily spend a full day in just one neighbourhood, if you add in a nice lunch of coffee break.
Thanks. Yes it was a hard choice between breaking this up by area or by type of shop. We went with the latter in the end, because we felt we were covering so many types. But for an upcoming one on LA, which is also very disparate, it will be done by area
1. Bears in Shimokitazawa. Small shop but with a surprisingly extensive selection of Japanese jeans (with some other workwear pieces) from multiple brands e.g. Samurai, Full Count, Sugar Cane, Warehouse, FOB, Denime, etc.
I visited L and Harmony back in March 2023 and was impressed by the range of selection. When I went back in December 2023, the shop seemed to be temporarily closed until further notice. Worth taking a note if anyone is planning for a visit
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