B 331 Cutlass bearing

[David Nurse]

Morning group,

 

I’m in the process of changing my cutlass bearing (Beneteau 331 with Westerbeke engine) and I come across a couple enigmas.

 

My plan is to remove the rudder, then uncouple the prop shaft and slide it out.

 

There’s a large bracket at the top of the rudder post.  Do I simply loosen the bolts on this bracket?  The rudder is supported, so it won’t come crashing to the ground.  I’m just wondering if I need to remove anything else.  (i.e. steering cables)

 

Second issue:  I’ve disconnected the shaft coupling.  I now need to remove the coupling from the shaft itself.   My plan was to place a socket against the shaft and tighten the coupling, thereby pushing the shaft out.  However, I discovered a nut that on the end of the shaft itself.  It’s hard to remove the nut because the shaft turns as I attempt to torque the nut.  Does anyone know what that nut is for?

 

Any help this learned group can provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

Dave

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

 

[Capt Guy]

It is not necessary to remove the shaft to replace the cutlass bearing.

 

I replaced my 352 bearing by removing the prop and the set screws in the shaft tube, then it was pried out.

 

Use K-Y jelly to install the one.

 

I had 1,800 hours on the old one befor eit needed replacement.

 

 

 

 

-------------------------------------------------
Captain Guy
s/v Island Time (352#277)
AICW 845.5
386-689-5088

<SPAN lang=EN-CA

[David Nurse]

 

Thanks Cap’

 

I guess I should have mentioned that the reason I need to replace the bearing is because it has migrated forward up inside the skeg.  The motor has 220 hrs on it.  I think the set screws weren’t tightened properly.  (I took possession of the boat last spring.   I was in a rush to launch because on an agreement that I had made with the boat yard that I used last spring.  I had to be the first in the water because I was blocking the travel lift.)   I monitored the situation throughout the sail season and it hadn’t gotten any worst.  So I decided not to spend my money on hauling the boat during the sailing season.

 

So now I have to remove the cutlass bearing.  I’ve tried to work it aft by loosening the set screws, and moving the shaft to the rear.  I haven’t had any success.  As near as I can tell,  my only option is to remove the shaft to access the bearing.   I’m open to suggestions though.  

 

If in fact I do have to remove the shaft,  I’m still wondering about the two issues that I posted initially.

 

Dave

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

[Max Lynn]

On my boat, there is a quadrant, to which the steering cables run.  You must remove the steering cables, then remove the bolts which lock the quadrant halves together.  It's possible/likely that there is a through-bolt through the quadrant and rudder shaft which requires removal as well.  Then you completely remove the quadrant.   Then, it depends on how your boat is set up, but mine has an upper bearing which is capped with a ring which is pinned through the rudder shaft with a through-bolt  as well.  That must be removed before the rudder can be removed.

 

I'm not sure I understand your coupler/prop shaft lash-up.. If I understand you correctly, when you separate the two halves of the coupler, you see a nut on the end of the prop shaft which protrudes from the aft coupler half?  I have never seen such a set-up, but that doesn't prove anything.  Why can't you put a pipe wrench or vise grips on the prop shaft to prevent it from turning in order to remove the nut.?  But before you do that, I would carry out your original plan to place a socket between the two coupler halves and retighten the coupler in order to draw the aft half from the shaft (unless the nut prevents the aft coupler half from coming off).  Of course you also should have a set screw which prevents the aft coupler half from turning on the shaft, and that should be loosened before you do anything.  That's the limit of my knowledge, or lack thereof on the subject. 

 

Your general approach to the overall problem is correct, you just have to sort out the details. 

 

Good Luck

 

Max Lynn

First 40.7 "Tranquility"

 

 

 ----- Original Message -----

From: David Nurse

To: Beneteau Owners

Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 10:05 AM

Subject: {Beneteau Owners} B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

Morning group,

 

I’m in the process of changing my cutlass bearing (Beneteau 331 with Westerbeke engine) and I come across a couple enigmas.

 

My plan is to remove the rudder, then uncouple the prop shaft and slide it out.

 

There’s a large bracket at the top of the rudder post.  Do I simply loosen the bolts on this bracket?  The rudder is supported, so it won’t come crashing to the ground.  I’m just wondering if I need to remove anything else.  (i.e. steering cables)

 

Second issue:  I’ve disconnected the shaft coupling.  I now need to remove the coupling from the shaft itself.   My plan was to place a socket against the shaft and tighten the coupling, thereby pushing the shaft out.  However, I discovered a nut that on the end of the shaft itself.  It’s hard to remove the nut because the shaft turns as I attempt to torque the nut.  Does anyone know what that nut is for?

 

Any help this learned group can provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

Dave

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

<SPAN lang=EN-CA

[still...@att.net]

Hi Dave,

 

Would you be willing to take some pictures and share them with the group?  I would be glad to post them and a story of your experience on my B331 site.

 

Mark

http://home.att.net/~dragonflyb331/

http://home.att.net/~beneteau331owners/

 

-------------- Original message from "David Nurse" <david...@rogers.com>: --------------

 

Thanks Cap’

 

I guess I should have mentioned that the reason I need to replace the bearing is because it has migrated forward up inside the skeg.  The motor has 220 hrs on it.  I think the set screws weren’t tightened properly.  (I took possession of the boat last spring.   I was in a rush to launch because on an agreement that I had made with the boat yard that I used last spring.  I had to be the first in the water because I was blocking the travel lift.)   I monitored the situation throughout the sail season and it hadn’t gotten any worst.  So I decided not to spend my money on hauling the boat during the sailing season.

 

So now I have to remove the cutlass bearing.  I’ve tried to work it aft by loosening the set screws, and moving the shaft to the rear.  I haven’t had any success.  As near as I can tell,  my only option is to remove the shaft to access the bearing.   I’m open to suggestions though.  

 

If in fact I do have to remove the shaft,  I’m still wondering about the two issues that I posted initially.

 

Dave

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

---

From: Benetea...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Benetea...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Capt Guy
Sent: March 28, 2006 6:09 PM
To: Benetea...@googlegroups.com
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

It is not necessary to remove the shaft to replace the cutlass bearing.

 

I replaced my 352 bearing by removing the prop and the set screws in the shaft tube, then it was pried out.

 

Use K-Y jelly to install the one.

 

I had 1,800 hours on the old one befor eit needed replacement.

 

 

 

 

-------------------------------------------------
Captain Guy
s/v Island Time (352#277)
AICW 845.5
386-689-5088

----- Original Message -----

[David Nurse]

You bet Mark.   I just need to remember to bring my camera to the boatyard.  By the way, great site!

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

---

From: Benetea...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Benetea...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of still...@att.net
Sent: March 30, 2006 10:39 AM
To: Benetea...@googlegroups.com; Benetea...@googlegroups.com
Cc: David Nurse
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

Hi Dave,

 

Would you be willing to take some pictures and share them with the group?  I would be glad to post them and a story of your experience on my B331 site.

 

Mark

http://home.att.net/~dragonflyb331/

http://home.att.net/~beneteau331owners/

 

-------------- Original message from "David Nurse" <david...@rogers.com>: --------------

 

Thanks Cap

 

I guess I should have mentioned that the reason I need to replace the bearing is because it has migrated forward up inside the skeg.  The motor has 220 hrs on it.  I think the set screws werent tightened properly.  (I took possession of the boat last spring.   I was in a rush to launch because on an agreement that I had made with the boat yard that I used last spring.  I had to be the first in the water because I was blocking the travel lift.)   I monitored the situation throughout the sail season and it hadnt gotten any worst.  So I decided not to spend my money on hauling the boat during the sailing season.

 

So now I have to remove the cutlass bearing.  Ive tried to work it aft by loosening the set screws, and moving the shaft to the rear.  I havent had any success.  As near as I can tell,  my only option is to remove the shaft to access the bearing.   Im open to suggestions though.  

 

If in fact I do have to remove the shaft,  Im still wondering about the two issues that I posted initially.

 

Dave

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

---

From: Benetea...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Benetea...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Capt Guy
Sent: March 28, 2006 6:09 PM
To: Benetea...@googlegroups.com
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

It is not necessary to remove the shaft to replace the cutlass bearing.

 

I replaced my 352 bearing by removing the prop and the set screws in the shaft tube, then it was pried out.

 

Use K-Y jelly to install the one.

 

I had 1,800 hours on the old one befor eit needed replacement.

 

 

 

 

-------------------------------------------------
Captain Guy
s/v Island Time (352#277)
AICW 845.5
386-689-5088

----- Original Message -----

From: David Nurse

To: Beneteau Owners

Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 10:05 AM

Subject: {Beneteau Owners} B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

Morning group,

 

Im in the process of changing my cutlass bearing (Beneteau 331 with Westerbeke engine) and I come across a couple enigmas.

 

My plan is to remove the rudder, then uncouple the prop shaft and slide it out.

 

Theres a large bracket at the top of the rudder post.  Do I simply loosen the bolts on this bracket?  The rudder is supported, so it wont come crashing to the ground.  Im just wondering if I need to remove anything else.  (i.e. steering cables)

 

Second issue:  Ive disconnected the shaft coupling.  I now need to remove the coupling from the shaft itself.   My plan was to place a socket against the shaft and tighten the coupling, thereby pushing the shaft out.  However, I discovered a nut that on the end of the shaft itself.  Its hard to remove the nut because the shaft turns as I attempt to torque the nut.  Does anyone know what that nut is for?

[David Nurse]

Mark,

 

As luck would have it, I was able to remove the cutlass bearing without removing the prop shaft.  I used two number 6 wood screws.  The cutlass bearing had migrated into the skeg.   I screwed the #6 screws into what I could see of the rubber bearing.   That gave me enough of a grip to slowly work the bearing aft.  Once it was aft of the skeg, I was able to simply slide it off the shaft.  

 

Dave

 

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

---

From: Benetea...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Benetea...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of still...@att.net

Sent: March 30, 2006 10:39 AM
To: Benetea...@googlegroups.com; Benetea...@googlegroups.com
Cc: David Nurse

Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

Hi Dave,

 

Would you be willing to take some pictures and share them with the group?  I would be glad to post them and a story of your experience on my B331 site.

 

Mark

http://home.att.net/~dragonflyb331/

http://home.att.net/~beneteau331owners/

 

-------------- Original message from "David Nurse" <david...@rogers.com>: --------------

 

Thanks Cap

 

I guess I should have mentioned that the reason I need to replace the bearing is because it has migrated forward up inside the skeg.  The motor has 220 hrs on it.  I think the set screws werent tightened properly.  (I took possession of the boat last spring.   I was in a rush to launch because on an agreement that I had made with the boat yard that I used last spring.  I had to be the first in the water because I was blocking the travel lift.)   I monitored the situation throughout the sail season and it hadnt gotten any worst.  So I decided not to spend my money on hauling the boat during the sailing season.

 

So now I have to remove the cutlass bearing.  Ive tried to work it aft by loosening the set screws, and moving the shaft to the rear.  I havent had any success.  As near as I can tell,  my only option is to remove the shaft to access the bearing.   Im open to suggestions though.  

 

If in fact I do have to remove the shaft,  Im still wondering about the two issues that I posted initially.

 

Dave

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

---

From: Benetea...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Benetea...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Capt Guy
Sent: March 28, 2006 6:09 PM
To: Benetea...@googlegroups.com
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

It is not necessary to remove the shaft to replace the cutlass bearing.

 

I replaced my 352 bearing by removing the prop and the set screws in the shaft tube, then it was pried out.

 

Use K-Y jelly to install the one.

 

I had 1,800 hours on the old one befor eit needed replacement.

 

 

 

 

-------------------------------------------------
Captain Guy
s/v Island Time (352#277)
AICW 845.5
386-689-5088

----- Original Message -----

From: David Nurse

To: Beneteau Owners

Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 10:05 AM

Subject: {Beneteau Owners} B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

Morning group,

 

Im in the process of changing my cutlass bearing (Beneteau 331 with Westerbeke engine) and I come across a couple enigmas.

 

My plan is to remove the rudder, then uncouple the prop shaft and slide it out.

 

Theres a large bracket at the top of the rudder post.  Do I simply loosen the bolts on this bracket?  The rudder is supported, so it wont come crashing to the ground.  Im just wondering if I need to remove anything else.  (i.e. steering cables)

 

Second issue:  Ive disconnected the shaft coupling.  I now need to remove the coupling from the shaft itself.   My plan was to place a socket against the shaft and tighten the coupling, thereby pushing the shaft out.  However, I discovered a nut that on the end of the shaft itself.  Its hard to remove the nut because the shaft turns as I attempt to torque the nut.  Does anyone know what that nut is for?

[AShe...@aol.com]

Hey Dave

I am thinking of tackling the same task myself 

How difficult was it to slide the new one in? and how did you do it?

 

Ami

B473

[David Nurse]

Hi Ami,

 

It’s really quite a simple process once you’ve got the prop removed. 

 

I ordered a prop puller last week and I picked it up on Monday.   ($200.00)  Once the prop is off, you have to remove the set screws that go through the housing and hold the bearing in place.  You should be able to slide the bearing aft and remove it from the prop shaft. 

 

The new bearing slides on the shaft then into the skeg housing.  I had no difficulty sliding it in.  You’ll see two holes on the cutlass bearing itself. You have to align the holes on the bearing with the holes on the housing.  Then install the set screws through the holes on the housing into the holes on the bearing.  The 331 uses an all rubber bearing.  It’s a lot easier to work with than the ones with a brass sleeve.  

 

I just went to the B website and noted that the 473 has an all rubber cutlass bearing as well. 

 

It took about 20 minutes to remove the prop.  If all goes well for you, it should take another 30 to replace the cutlass bearing, and re-install the prop.

 

Good luck! 

 

 

Dave

 

Jade

B-331

Gananoque, Ontario

From: Benetea...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Benetea...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of AShe...@aol.com
Sent: April 10, 2006 11:11 PM
To: Benetea...@googlegroups.com
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: B 331 Cutlass bearing

 

Hey Dave

[bbigd...@aol.com]

I have a Perkins M50 with a Racor 500 series fuel filter. Anyone know
what filter element I should use?
2 micron,10 micron or 30 micron?

Thanks,

Bill Wagner

[Bill Jarvis]

Bill,

You would be well advised to use the 10 micron. The 500 series is has a
large capacity and you can use the 10 to catch all the big stuff and most of
the small. The on engine filter will catch the rest of the really small
stuff. If you use the 2 in the Racor the on engine filter will be doing
nothing and you will be changing the more expensive Racor element too often.

Bill

----- Original Message -----
From: <bbigd...@aol.com>
To: <Benetea...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 9:56 PM
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: B 331 Cutlass bearing

>
>
>

[Dan....@carrier.utc.com]

Bill,

I have exactly the same setup and use 10 micron cartridges. Did contemplate
at one stage to use 30 microns, but in the end used Bill Jarvis' logic and
stuck to the 10s.
Dan
'Babar' '94 OC440