The calibration process in the manual seems to work. When I was a
dealer, I installed dozens all wheel pilots (331, 352, 321) and all worked as
expected.
But you gotta calibrate and don’t take short cuts. When we go from
Palm Beach to West End, I enter the waypoint and forget about it. The boat
stays on the track line even in 2-3 knots side current, the heading is 20-30
degrees off the course, and the wheel pilot never wavers. A/Ps work one of
two ways, maintain a course or goto a waypoint. The heading ( the
direction of the bow) is not important, just the course made good.
However, in a cross current, you’ll need to manually go right or left to stay on
the intended track. When you push the AUTO button, it revcords the heading
from the gyro/fluxgate compass and keeps that heading, which many not be where
you want to go (see earlier about cross currents).
So much is going on, the rudder angle is not that useful, tho may help in
calibrating.
Use common sense. If you enter AUTO and the boat doesn’t maintain the
heading (check your mag compass for changes, not actual). Oh that reminds
me, its is very difficult to calibrate deviation, and with working GPS and other
toys, not important. Variation is global, deviation is local. Crew
loves to put air horn in drink holder...BAM, 20 degree swing in compass.
With our modern toys (and suitable backups) just stay on the track line, even if
hand steering.
We used to swing ship and have a deviation card posted at the helm.
HAH. Coast Guard doesn’t do that any more even on cutters (at least the
ones I’ve been on recently).
Anyway, have fun...CALIBRATE then turn everything off and do it
again.
Guy