Anchor Windlass interlock

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Merrill Mant

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Jun 4, 2012, 6:25:23 PM6/4/12
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Ambition's anchor winsdlass can only be operated with the engine runing. I would like to bypass this "feature" and be able to operate the windlass even if the engine is not running. Any insight on what I need to remove and where I might find it would be appreciated. Ambition is a 2000 2 cabin model.
 
Thanks in advance,
Merrill
s/v Ambition B411 #155
www.synergymarine.com

Mark J Wilme

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Jun 4, 2012, 6:29:20 PM6/4/12
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There is a relay / solenoid - trace the wires from the back of the breaker / isolator and you will find it

Note that the windlass can pose a significant load on your battery bank - whether house or starting

Mark J Wilme
Mark....@gmail.com
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Bob Getty

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Jun 4, 2012, 7:07:55 PM6/4/12
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When you find the relay it's a  simple matter of jumping 12 V from the power lead to the interlock via a switch then you have a bypass.  However as pointed out there is the potential large draw on the DC system.  Also I keep my large breaker for the windlass off. So you have to remember to close this in an emergency.  Further I have difficulty envisioning an emergency that would require me to pull the anchor where I didn't also need the engine. 

Merrill Mant

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Jun 4, 2012, 7:23:04 PM6/4/12
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Thank you for the tips. Would you expect the relay to be close to the alternator / engine compartment or behind the fiberglass panel in the forward head where the solenoid is?  I have no intention of raising the anchor without having the engine running. I just hate to be constrained to having to raise the anchor by hand. My windlass has no manual operating method.  Worst case scenario is I can run the 4kw gen set to feed additional power to the batteries during the process.
 
Merrill

Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 19:07:55 -0400
Subject: Re: {Beneteau Owners} Anchor Windlass interlock
From: ourdr...@gmail.com
To: benetea...@googlegroups.com

ourdr...@gmail.com

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Jun 4, 2012, 7:29:42 PM6/4/12
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The relay I was referring to is what I think you are referring to as the solenoid.  Mine and I expect all will be located close to the windlass.
It is the device that controls the direction of the windlass.  Hope this clarifies.
 

Bob
S/V Our Dream
'97 Beneteau Oceanis 351 #195
Slip C-17, Castle Harbor Marina
Chester River Kent Island
Chester, MD
_/)__/)__/)_
·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·
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Captain Guy

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Jun 4, 2012, 9:33:17 PM6/4/12
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Also, it’s nice to add a little scope without cranking the engine... or worst case, starter failure and you want to sail home...  all in all , a bad setup...
 
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 7:23 PM

David Mackintosh

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Jun 5, 2012, 7:15:41 AM6/5/12
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Adding scope without starting the engine is easy you just ease the gypsy clutch. 

In 30+ years of sailing Beneteau boats this windlass interlock system has never been a problem to me............the only real fault/problem i have had with lifting the anchor was when the windlass solenoid went AWOL and i had to rewire the solenoid up for down windlass feed wires so we could 'easily' lift the anchor. 

Also when i see my E120 flicker with the voltage drop when using the windlass i am very happy that my engine is running - all in all IMHO a very good set up and i cant see why you would want it any other way. 

IF you could not start your engine due to a faulty starter NOT flat batteries it would be easy to bypass the windlass interlock relay - of course you need to understand 'your boat' and how things works and are set up.  That to my mind is  a much better use of your time than redoing things that work well and have been working well on thousands of Beneteau's and other boats for many years. 

Bypass the interlock and then you could find you cant start the engine and you have to sail home. 

In Antigua recently we could not lift the anchor the C/B kept tripping so i had to go up forward to see what was the problem...........we had got the anchor 'trapped' in a keyhole slot/hole in a large piece of coral it was about three foot thick twenty foot long and about six foot wide.  With the admiral on the helm and the engine at 2500 RPM we 'slowly' with the C/B constantly tripping the Lofrans 1500W windlass managed to lift this piece of coral to just below the surface.  We then motored it into the beach until we were almost aground and dropped it onto the bottom and then tried to motor away from it after about 20 mins we decided to lift it again.  Finally with it on the surface i got my snorkel gear on jumped into the water and we  wrapped a warp round it took the weight of the coral on that and then let out the anchor chain..............i quickly disentangled the anchor and we had that back on deck.  I got back onto Highland Fling and motored her into the beach again and when the keel touched we released the warp and the bit of Antigua that had taken a liking to Highland Fling was back on the bottom in a place where it would not be a problem to any other cruisers.

regards

David

Cap Munday

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Jun 5, 2012, 8:57:21 AM6/5/12
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I agree with you, David. We have never had a problem with the interlock. It's no problem to fire up the Yanmar to deal with the infrequent anchor rode adjustments. When we get ready to leave in the morning this is a good way to warm up the engine.

Cap Munday
S/V Zydeco
Beneteau 473

Rick Itenson

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Jun 5, 2012, 4:07:52 PM6/5/12
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This is common in many Beneteaus.  Following is from the 393 Group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beneteau393/

There is another relay in the engine compartment that will not allow the windlass to work unless the engine is running . this relay gets powered from the Alternator.It interrupts the ground to the solenoid. this can be bypassed to allow the windlass to operate from the battery without the engine running, by jumping the large gauge ground from
the battery feed for the windlass to the ground terminal of the solenoid.
To test the windlass motor itself jump out the solenoid with a heavy cable like jumper cables from a car.
This will tell you if it is the motor or something else.
Why beneteau had wired in this lockout relay for the engine to be running is probably to save the battery from draining due to the load, IMO it is a better idea to have the use of the windlass in an emergency i.e..  If engine fails you can still use the windlass to manage the anchor.

Rick
B393 

Cap Munday

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Jun 5, 2012, 5:33:32 PM6/5/12
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On our last trip up the Waterway I had four occasions that required me to hand launch the anchor. After 10,000 miles with the main engine never overheating, in two days it happened 4 times. Each time I chose to hand launch the secondary anchor rather than run a hot engine. It was not difficult to launch the 44 lb Delta, and after I cleared the blockage the engine started and ran cool. I used the windlass to haul the anchor. 

We got the raw water intake problems solved in rapid order (more rapid each time) by using the dingy pump to back flush the raw water intake. I don't know what it was each time, but we are now good at clearing it out. The last time we were passing through an opening bridge when the alarm went off. I stopped the engine, coasted through the gap, and when I tried to restart it we got full flow and all was cool! 

BTW, in the 1,000 miles since Daytona Beach we have not had a repeat event. Highly strange. 


Cap Munday
S/V Zydeco
Beneteau 473


-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Itenson <ite...@gmail.com>
To: beneteau-owners <benetea...@googlegroups.com>

Merrill Mant

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Jun 5, 2012, 5:42:18 PM6/5/12
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Cap,
I think you made good choices using your secondary anchor! I also feel that I do not require an interlock to protect the load on my battery, I am capabale of handling that myself. In the event of an emergency I would like the ability to operate the windlass without the engine running. Dropping is is no problem by loosening the gypsy clutch nut. Raising it however is a whole other story.
I too have had a situation of an overheat on a previous boat - I had sucked in a clear plastic bag that did an excellent job at ceasing all raw water flow to the engine. Since then I have ensured that there is an intake screen on the through hull fitting.   
 
Thanks all for your input.

 
Merrill
s/v Ambition B411 #155
www.synergymarine.com

To: benetea...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: {Beneteau Owners} Re: Anchor Windlass interlock
From: ca...@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 17:33:32 -0400

David Mackintosh

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Jun 5, 2012, 6:55:58 PM6/5/12
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We seem to be missing the point here, and i truly dont understand the desire to outhink (and know better than)  the boats designers.

Without your engine running the voltage at the windlass will be around 11V or less  and that is assuming a fully charged fault free battery (no duff cells)  and all good tight clean connectors in the circuit - with the engine running you should have 12.5V or more.  That is a whole lot more power to your windlass and having a higher voltage available is much better for your windlass motor as well  - it will run faster and cooler - notwithstanding you will lift the chain in a much shorter time-frame so less wear on your windlass as well.

In a real emergency and in extremis you can bypass the interlock relay very easily  - that said i have yet  to have to do that in 30+ years of sailing Beneteau's

regards

David

Cap Munday

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Jun 5, 2012, 9:05:03 PM6/5/12
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Good point, David. I will not be short circuiting our system. In the worst case I could figure a way to run the genset when hauling anchor and have a safely charged battery. However, I can manhandle the rode, so why not have some aerobics?

Noble, Milner E.

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Jun 5, 2012, 9:18:23 PM6/5/12
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Sitting here on Lake Champlian, I love this conversation. But having been, and will probably be in the future in this potential situation, this is a great conversation to follow. Thank you all for this discussion. The quality of the content has been very helpful. The Antigua story was great. I take that it was a pretty calm day David?
--Milner

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 5, 2012, at 9:05 PM, "Cap Munday" <ca...@aol.com<mailto:ca...@aol.com>> wrote:

Good point, David. I will not be short circuiting our system. In the worst case I could figure a way to run the genset when hauling anchor and have a safely charged battery. However, I can manhandle the rode, so why not have some aerobics?

Cap Munday
S/V Zydeco
Beneteau 473


-----Original Message-----
From: David Mackintosh <sv.highl...@gmail.com<mailto:sv.highl...@gmail.com>>
To: beneteau-owners <benetea...@googlegroups.com<mailto:benetea...@googlegroups.com>>
Sent: Tue, Jun 5, 2012 6:56 pm
Subject: Re: {Beneteau Owners} Re: Anchor Windlass interlock

We seem to be missing the point here, and i truly dont understand the desire to outhink (and know better than) the boats designers.

Without your engine running the voltage at the windlass will be around 11V or less and that is assuming a fully charged fault free battery (no duff cells) and all good tight clean connectors in the circuit - with the engine running you should have 12.5V or more. That is a whole lot more power to your windlass and having a higher voltage available is much better for your windlass motor as well - it will run faster and cooler - notwithstanding you will lift the chain in a much shorter time-frame so less wear on your windlass as well.

In a real emergency and in extremis you can bypass the interlock relay very easily - that said i have yet to have to do that in 30+ years of sailing Beneteau's

regards

David

On 5 June 2012 18:42, Merrill Mant <merril...@hotmail.com<mailto:merril...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Cap,
I think you made good choices using your secondary anchor! I also feel that I do not require an interlock to protect the load on my battery, I am capabale of handling that myself. In the event of an emergency I would like the ability to operate the windlass without the engine running. Dropping is is no problem by loosening the gypsy clutch nut. Raising it however is a whole other story.
I too have had a situation of an overheat on a previous boat - I had sucked in a clear plastic bag that did an excellent job at ceasing all raw water flow to the engine. Since then I have ensured that there is an intake screen on the through hull fitting.

Thanks all for your input.

Merrill
s/v Ambition B411 #155
www.synergymarine.com<http://www.synergymarine.com>
________________________________
To: benetea...@googlegroups.com<mailto:benetea...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: {Beneteau Owners} Re: Anchor Windlass interlock
From: ca...@aol.com<mailto:ca...@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 17:33:32 -0400

On our last trip up the Waterway I had four occasions that required me to hand launch the anchor. After 10,000 miles with the main engine never overheating, in two days it happened 4 times. Each time I chose to hand launch the secondary anchor rather than run a hot engine. It was not difficult to launch the 44 lb Delta, and after I cleared the blockage the engine started and ran cool. I used the windlass to haul the anchor.

We got the raw water intake problems solved in rapid order (more rapid each time) by using the dingy pump to back flush the raw water intake. I don't know what it was each time, but we are now good at clearing it out. The last time we were passing through an opening bridge when the alarm went off. I stopped the engine, coasted through the gap, and when I tried to restart it we got full flow and all was cool!

BTW, in the 1,000 miles since Daytona Beach we have not had a repeat event. Highly strange.

Cap Munday
S/V Zydeco
Beneteau 473


-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Itenson <ite...@gmail.com<mailto:ite...@gmail.com>>
To: beneteau-owners <benetea...@googlegroups.com<mailto:benetea...@googlegroups.com>>
Sent: Tue, Jun 5, 2012 4:07 pm
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: Anchor Windlass interlock



On Monday, June 4, 2012 6:25:23 PM UTC-4, merril...@hotmail.com<mailto:merril...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Ambition's anchor winsdlass can only be operated with the engine runing. I would like to bypass this "feature" and be able to operate the windlass even if the engine is not running. Any insight on what I need to remove and where I might find it would be appreciated. Ambition is a 2000 2 cabin model.

Thanks in advance,
Merrill
s/v Ambition B411 #155
www.synergymarine.com<http://www.synergymarine.com/>

This is common in many Beneteaus. Following is from the 393 Group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beneteau393/

There is another relay in the engine compartment that will not allow the windlass to work unless the engine is running . this relay gets powered from the Alternator.It interrupts the ground to the solenoid. this can be bypassed to allow the windlass to operate from the battery without the engine running, by jumping the large gauge ground from
the battery feed for the windlass to the ground terminal of the solenoid.
To test the windlass motor itself jump out the solenoid with a heavy cable like jumper cables from a car.
This will tell you if it is the motor or something else.
Why beneteau had wired in this lockout relay for the engine to be running is probably to save the battery from draining due to the load, IMO it is a better idea to have the use of the windlass in an emergency i.e.. If engine fails you can still use the windlass to manage the anchor.

Rick
B393
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bjgr...@verizon.net

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Jun 5, 2012, 9:26:17 PM6/5/12
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If I'm not mistaken on my 361 I only had to turn on the key and the windlass ran. No engine start. She wa a 2002. I have not tried this on my. 2008 40. I will this weekend. May have been a design change since.

Jun 5, 2012 06:56:04 PM, benetea...@googlegroups.com wrote:

===========================================

We seem to be missing the point here, and i truly dont understand the desire to outhink (and know better than)  the boats designers.

Without your engine running the voltage at the windlass will be around 11V or less  and that is assuming a fully charged fault free battery (no duff cells)  and all good tight clean connectors in the circuit - with the engine running you should have 12.5V or more.  That is a whole lot more power to your windlass and having a higher voltage available is much better for your windlass motor as well  - it will run faster and cooler - notwithstanding you will lift the chain in a much shorter time-frame so less wear on your windlass as well.


In a real emergency and in extremis you can bypass the interlock relay very easily  - that said i have yet  to have to do that in 30+ years of sailing Beneteau's

regards

David


On 5 June 2012 18:42, Merrill Mant wrote:





Cap,

I think you made good choices using your secondary anchor! I also feel that I do not require an interlock to protect the load on my battery, I am capabale of handling that myself. In the event of an emergency I would like the ability to operate the windlass without the engine running. Dropping is is no problem by loosening the gypsy clutch nut. Raising it however is a whole other story.


I too have had a situation of an overheat on a previous boat - I had sucked in a clear plastic bag that did an excellent job at ceasing all raw water flow to the engine. Since then I have ensured that there is an intake screen on the through hull fitting.   


 

Thanks all for your input.

 

Merrill

s/v Ambition B411 #155

www.synergymarine.com




To: benetea...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: {Beneteau Owners} Re: Anchor Windlass interlock
From: ca...@aol.com

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 17:33:32 -0400

On our last trip up the Waterway I had four occasions that required me to hand launch the anchor. After 10,000 miles with the main engine never overheating, in two days it happened 4 times. Each time I chose to hand launch the secondary anchor rather than run a hot engine. It was not difficult to launch the 44 lb Delta, and after I cleared the blockage the engine started and ran cool. I used the windlass to haul the anchor. 


We got the raw water intake problems solved in rapid order (more rapid each time) by using the dingy pump to back flush the raw water intake. I don't know what it was each time, but we are now good at clearing it out. The last time we were passing through an opening bridge when the alarm went off. I stopped the engine, coasted through the gap, and when I tried to restart it we got full flow and all was cool! 



BTW, in the 1,000 miles since Daytona Beach we have not had a repeat event. Highly strange. 



Cap Munday
S/V Zydeco
Beneteau 473


-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Itenson
To: beneteau-owners

Sent: Tue, Jun 5, 2012 4:07 pm
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Re: Anchor Windlass interlock




On Monday, June 4, 2012 6:25:23 PM UTC-4, merril...@hotmail.com wrote:


Ambition's anchor winsdlass can only be operated with the engine runing. I would like to bypass this "feature" and be able to operate the windlass even if the engine is not running. Any insight on what I need to remove and where I might find it would be appreciated. Ambition is a 2000 2 cabin model.

 
Thanks in advance,
Merrill
s/v Ambition B411 #155
www.synergymarine.com



This is common in many Beneteaus.  Following is from the 393 Group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beneteau393/


There is another relay in the engine compartment that will not allow the windlass to work unless the engine is running . this relay gets powered from the Alternator.It interrupts the ground to the solenoid. this can be bypassed to allow the windlass to operate from the battery without the engine running, by jumping the large gauge ground from

the battery feed for the windlass to the ground terminal of the solenoid.
To test the windlass motor itself jump out the solenoid with a heavy cable like jumper cables from a car.
This will tell you if it is the motor or something else.
Why beneteau had wired in this lockout relay for the engine to be running is probably to save the battery from draining due to the load, IMO it is a better idea to have the use of the windlass in an emergency i.e..  If engine fails you can still use the windlass to manage the anchor.



Rick
B393 
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Captain Guy

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Jun 5, 2012, 8:23:43 PM6/5/12
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if all you show is 11v or less, there are other problems... I show 12.6 after several days un-plugged and 14.1 with motor running.
 
yes, higher v is a good thing.
 
so is being able to control windlass in any eventuality.
 
I have the control switch at the helm, as I single hand a lot... I can raise, lower, etc. without going on a pitching fwd deck with or without engine.  Many times, I’ve stepped into cockpit and added some scope whilst wind-gen keeps battery topped.
 
I’m just saying.  Flexibility is a good thing.

Captain Guy

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Jun 5, 2012, 11:46:41 PM6/5/12
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this feature was prompted by charter operators that didn’t like dead battery support calls.  however, 99% of charterers use engine for everything.

Captain Guy

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Jun 5, 2012, 11:47:29 PM6/5/12
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one more note:
 
time to raise has no relationship to wear... it’s the same number of revolutions whether 60 feet per minute or 100 feet per minute.

Rick Donovan

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Jun 6, 2012, 5:06:30 AM6/6/12
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if I have been awakened and have gone up on deck in the middle of the night, something is new going on. I would prefer the engine running regardless of the wiring configuration, just in case I needed to maneuver the boat. this scenario being discussed is usually brought on by a change in weather, someone dragging etc. letting scope out is straight forward by using the clutch provided. but if you decide to retrieve the anchor, you will want the engine for maneuvering the boat from my experience. starting the engine was a standard precaution for me, just because you are not sure what might be needed before this is over. in the few seconds it took to do that, I felt it was the right thing to do.

I am guessing that the 11vdc mentioned would be what might be seen under the load of the windlass when running. because as I remember 10.5 is a dead battery bank.


On Jun 5, 2012, at 11:47 PM, Captain Guy wrote:

time to raise has no relationship to wear... it’s the same number of revolutions whether 60 feet per minute or 100 feet per minute.

that is not necessarily true. maybe the worm gear and worm shaft would not be affected so much but the lower voltages in this unusual example will make for the likely possibility that the drive motor will run hot, which in turn will cause premature damage to the internal windings. this is not wear in the strict definition but this would be a bad scenario for the windlass just the same. I would also expect the revolutions per minute to be slower with low battery voltage there by the same amount of rode to be brought up would take longer. the extra time to bring the rode aboard would provide the possibility for more heat into the motor than would be normal. at some point this would also cause a failure just as a physical part wearing out in the gear box. in the end, you get the same problem. the windlass stops working. 
 

what this really comes down to for me is that this discussion once again shows the individual needs of each skipper. in the end it really doesn't matter which way the windlass is wired as long as you understand its limitations in that configuration. if you happen to feel better with the relay jumped out so that the windlass will run without the key being turned on or the engine running, that is your choice. I don't feel there is a right or wrong way on this one, just your way.

to each his own as they say.

Rick Donovan
Biddeford, Maine

David Mackintosh

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Jun 6, 2012, 7:50:46 AM6/6/12
to benetea...@googlegroups.com
Calm in the Caribbean!!!!  that is a myth Milner,

Another Caribbean myth.  Caribbean sailing is sailing in gentle trade winds on a reach up and down the islands - as they say in Scotland Aye Right. 

Force 9 in Anse du Colombier St Barth at Christmas!!! NOT in this picture though.





 I had to tie the wheel (first time ever) to the sheet winches as the brake was not strong enough to stop the rudder from going from lock to lock as Highland Fling was doing the Highland Fling real time. I knew we were in for a blow and with Anse du Grand Colombier being in the acceleration zone at the end of St Barthelemy it was rather wild so wild in fact that the spray from Anse Parchal and La Petite Anse on the north side of the island was flying into Anse du Grand Colombier

Map of St. Barts





BUT back to Antigua.  It actually was blowing a hoolie but we were tucked into the shore in Falmouth Harbour just off the sandy beach on the starboard side of the harbour just past the first channel buoy.

Falmouth - Antigua

 BUT we were going nowhere fast for the obvious reason............... we put Highland Fling aground twice to hold her steady.  We had an audience of confused bemused other cruisers who were wondering what was going on.............had they thought about it and seeing Highland Fling well down by the head and with the swim platform well out of the water they might have understood.............NO ONE offered help or came over to assist or investigate which i did find rather odd as for sure i would have been there had it been another boat

regards

David









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David Mackintosh

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Jun 6, 2012, 8:05:06 AM6/6/12
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On 6 June 2012 01:23, Captain Guy <G...@guym.com> wrote:
if all you show is 11v or less, there are other problems... I show 12.6 after several days un-plugged and 14.1 with motor running.

YES BUT where are you measuring this voltage?  I  was talking about voltage measured AT the windlass with a voltage drop due to the cable length run and the number of connections in circuit.   I did write "the voltage at the windlass will be around 11V or less"  With the windlass under load it will be even less.

You prove my point very well 12.6 V with the batteries at rest NOT under load then 14.1 V with the engine running its a no brainer really!!!

regards

David
 

David Mackintosh

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Jun 6, 2012, 8:15:35 AM6/6/12
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You are simplyfying things here and seemingly failing to understand the point i was making - it is not just about time and RPM  - A windlass operating with a lower voltage will experience many undesirable conditions :- running longer, overheating of the motor, flashing across the commutator,  more wear on the gears :- due to longer operation at lower RPM with a higher load and less lubrication.

regards

David
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