Beneteau 473 Replacing Refrigerator

[Harrison Midkiff]

I have a 2002 473, three cabin layout. I got a new Frigoboat compressor and evaporator for it. The current compressor is under the sink and the lines for the evaporator run across the bottom to the freezer. This run goes right into the cabinets. All the paneling appears to be interconnected and currently there is not an access panel to make replacing it easy. I think I am going to have to cut an access panel? Before I do I am curious if anyone else has already taken on this project and how you got access?

PS - Pic attached shows compressor and lines going into cabinets....

[John Kjenner]

Hi Harrison,

I went through the same replacement on my 473.  The installers made a cut-out from behind the adjacent bench.  I can send you pictures tomorrow, if you like.

Cheers,

John

[harrison midkiff]

Yes pics would be great!!!

Thanks.  

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On Jan 9, 2022, at 4:49 PM, John Kjenner <jkje...@chadwickschool.org> wrote:

Hi Harrison,

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[Jon Schultz]

Following. Have same frigoboat set up and is now kaput. Access under galley sink and nearly impossible to access. 

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On Jan 9, 2022, at 4:49 PM, John Kjenner <jkje...@chadwickschool.org> wrote:

Hi Harrison,

--

[Harrison Midkiff]

Hello all:

This weekend I manage to get the compressor, evaporator, thermostats and most of the copper tubing out.  My B473 is a 3 cabin layout.  The compressor is under the sink and the copper lines go into a cutout in the cabinets.  There is "NO" access panel.  Apparently, it was installed as they were building the galley and thus it is completely unserviceable....  I used an oscillating tool (DEWALT ATOMIC 20V MAX* Oscillating Tool, Cordless, Oscillating) to cut a small access hole.  (See Pics)  This allowed me to remove most of the copper tubing, but it seems they coiled it up "behind" the freezer and I could not pull it all out.  I am still working on it, but I am going to cap both ends of the copper tubbing so the oil will not leak out and just leave the tubing inside the cabinets out of the way.  It does seem with the hole I cut I should be able to get the new evaporator & copper lines through it with out too much of a problem.  The new unit I am putting in is a frigoboat.  Compressor, evaporator, thermostats, spill over, and speed controller came to just over $1,700.  Everything is on back order and It took almost 4 months to get it!!!!!

"Oceanis 440 NY" - If you would like to talk about this please email (harrison...@gmail.com) me directly with your number and I can call you.

Harrison - Tampa, Florida 

[DAVID FLETCHER]

That is a way too much 

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On Jan 10, 2022, at 11:16 AM, Harrison Midkiff <harrison...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all:

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/beneteau-owners/9f815bd7-2492-4419-9a78-0081350641can%40googlegroups.com.

[DAVID FLETCHER]

Vitrofrigo is a great unit. Far less expensive than others. 

A solid replacement with a DanFoss DB50 compressor 

Fletch

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On Jan 10, 2022, at 2:59 PM, DAVID FLETCHER <davidcf...@rogers.com> wrote:

That is a way too much 

[Harrison Midkiff]

Well, I got it done!!!!  As with most of my projects the researching and planning were more than the job itself.  This is how I did it.

I decided to go with a Frigoboat system for a series of reasons.  Sadly due to shipping issues I waited 4 months for it.  The compressor was located under the galley sink.  It was easy to get to but getting access to the copper lines for the evaporator and behind the freezer was a different story…  It seems the copper lines for the evaporator were installed when the galley was being built.  There was no access to the freezer area to be able to service it.  To get access I cut a small access hole under the galley sink.  It ended up the copper lines were run behind the freezer, and they would “NOT” come out.  I ended up capping them and leaving them in place. 

The wiring from the panel over to the compressor was 8 gauge.  The docs said not to use anything lower than 10 gauge.  I ended up installing a new “bus bar” and enclosed it in a waterproof box.  This ended up being a blessing because I had two thermostats and had to run power to both.  One of the thermostats was for the freezer and the other was for the refrigerator.  The thermostat for the refrigerator was a spill over fan.  I ended up installing them on the panel in front of the galley sink.  For mounting I added a ½ inch plate I made from a solid piece of wood I got at Lowes.  I stained it black and then put 2 coats of marine varnish on it.  This plate helped with a spacing issue because the switch assemblies were a bit long and bumped into the sink.  They really came out great and helped to give it a nice clean look. 

I was really nervous about bending the evaporator.  It had to be bent into a “U”.  I measured multiple times and I am happy to say it bent exactly how I wanted it!!!!  For the bend I put it on a piece of plywood and then used a 3 inch PVC pipe and a heat gun.  I heated the bend area on the evaporator up to 200 degrees (per instructions) to help avoid any cracks in the paint while bending. 

When I was done it seemed the compressor was exposed under the sink.  I was worried someone might put a bucket or something down that would damage it or mess up the wiring.  I fabricated a small wooden box with solid pine wood from Lowes.  Just the plate I stained/varnished.  This should keep it protected. 

All-in-all this was not as hard as I thought.  It took me 2 weekends to complete it.  This was due to I had to order the water proof box on Amazon and the time it took to do the staining/varnishing.

Harrison - Tarpon Springs, Florida

[DAVID FLETCHER]

8 gauge is bigger than 10 gauge. 

Hope you didn’t replace it with 10

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On Jan 29, 2022, at 3:23 PM, Harrison Midkiff <harrison...@gmail.com> wrote:



To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/beneteau-owners/a7387847-7ab4-4bd7-a89b-c4e9698b242fn%40googlegroups.com.

[DAVID FLETCHER]

If you removed the thermostats from the freezer and the fridge how are hoimg to control the temperature now?

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On Jan 29, 2022, at 3:23 PM, Harrison Midkiff <harrison...@gmail.com> wrote:



Well, I got it done!!!!  As with most of my projects the researching and planning were more than the job itself.  This is how I did it.

[Rick L]

Couple of observations here:

 - 10 gauge is smaller than 8 gauge wire.

 - Are the thermostat sensors at the external panel or inside it?  If inside the panel you are monitoring cabin temp not frig/freezer temp.

 - The condenser does have a cooling fan but I think much of the heat is radiated off of it - protecting it with a box may lower efficiency.

[harrison midkiff]

David:

As part of the new thermostats they both had their own sensors on about 10 foot cables.  I fished them back back through the paneling with one for the freezer and one for the refrigerator.  I mounted them where the old ones came out, so I am pretty sure I am good.  This was the first time doing anything like this and I really appreciate your comments and advice.  

Harrison - Tarpon Springs, Florida

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/beneteau-owners/042732F1-1441-4BDA-BDE4-808E49FD1107%40rogers.com.

--

Harrison Midkiff

harrison...@gmail.com 

727.238.0498

[harrison midkiff]

Rick:

This was the first time doing a project like this.  I think I covered all my bases, but still welcome your feedback.  Here is a bit more detail to your observations.

 - 10 gauge is smaller than 8 gauge wire.

 YES - The lower the number the bigger the wire.  I guess I miss spoke here🙂

 - Are the thermostat sensors at the external panel or inside it?  If inside the panel you are monitoring cabin temp not frig/freezer temp.

 Each sensor came with a thermostat on a 10 foot cable.  I fished both of them back through the paneling with one for the freezer and one for the refrigerator.  I mounted them where the old ones were so I think I should be fine. 

 - The condenser does have a cooling fan but I think much of the heat is radiated off of it - protecting it with a box may lower efficiency.

Interesting.....  The box covers it in a "L" kinda shape.  It only goes back about 1/2 the way and is completely open in the back.  To me it seems like it does have good airflow.  You can see it in one of the pictures I posted.  I went back to the manual and you can see below is what they say about "ventilation" so you are definitely right!  Support from "Frigoboat" has been great!  Before I make any changes I am going to reach out to them, but thank you for this observation!!!! 

There should be adequate ventilation to allow cool air to enter the condenser, and precautions made to prevent the heated expelled air from being drawn back in. The temperature of the air entering the condenser determines the efficiency of the system. Re-circulating the heated air back into the condenser in a sealed or poorly ventilated cabinet will result in poor system performance. Poor system performance will also result from air being drawn in from a heated space, i.e. an engine room.

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[DAVID FLETCHER]

You will be ok as long as you put the freezer sensor directly against the plate. 

There is a small resistor in the freezer thermostat. It controls the compressor speed. Be sure it is the fast one. 1500 ohms ( I think)

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On Jan 30, 2022, at 11:42 AM, harrison midkiff <harrison...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Harrison Midkiff]

Rick:

Regarding the cooling I contacted Coastal Climate Control in Annapolis, MD via email.  I also included some pics for them to look at.  They promptly replied with a follow-up question then concluded the wood box in the shape of an "L" should not be a problem due to the ducting I ran, and the entire back of the wood box is open.  I will still keep and eye on it just to be safe, but I think I am okay.

Thank you again for taking the time to reply to my post.

Harrison - Tarpon Springs, Florida  

[Rick L]

Harrison-

Nice job and forgive all of us try to "help" - your a braver man than I tacking a 473 frig.

Rick