Hi, for about the last 12-15 Months my 508 Sw has had a weird issue, intermittent stalling when stopping at traffic light the rev counter gives a small blip and then the engine just dies. No faults are showed on the display no warning lights etc., Car restarts first turn of the key and stalls again unless I give it some revs and hold it above 1000rpm, idle does sit at 900 cold or about 750 hot. It is totally random when it will do it, but if it does it once it will do it 4 or 5 times, restart fine on the key. just Weird, I have had a full service done inc fuel filter still does it. The car is a 2012 508 Sw Active 2.0 Hdi. My Vin is VF38ERHF8CL033315
I have bought the download tool with pp2000/diagbox checked. couple of codes store. Maybe some one can explain the last one.
B1825: Oil level information fault. Level too low (now top up to max mark on dip stick was in-between min and max)
B1418: Fault in status of seat belt fastening information for determining the presence of the driver. (I was now wearing the seat belt at the time)
B1816: Fault loss of the hybrid drive train status information (Then again its not a hybrid)
U1F00: Fault event not stored in the fault log.
I cleared 4 codes which where in it. Changed the filters again and starting using BP ultimate Diesel and it was fine for a while. You could still see the revs drop every now and again but the computer would catch it. but this morning it stalled about 6 times in a row. the only code stored is in the BSI module code is B162C 12 Fault Accessories Positive Relay Control & Status not coherent. If you clear it and retest (with out starting the engine ) code stays cleared same with starting and stopping the engine on the key. but if you let it stall/cut out the same error code appears again.
After doing some google research, I came across some C5 owners (same engine) who were having stalling issues, like mine no engine management lights/weird error codes etc..Mines only had (BSI or body system codes apart from the U1F00 code still don't know what that is) Turned out for some of them, the air control units were dirty (also called by some sites and you tube the throttle body), So I stripped mine off, really easy 2 electrical connection, two T30 screws one T30 that you don't take right out and disconnect the air duct and a small vacuum tube. Inside my air control unit was very dirty. thickly coated in oil and dirt/carbon from the EGR and Breather tubes. The Air Temp Sensor you could not even see due to the Grime. So I cleaned everything out and reassembled. Used the Peugeot Planet tool to reset everything and did the actuator tests etc.. Car is running fine at the moment but only time will tell..
I did notice when its at idle every 30 secs or so you can hear and feel the air flap open and close does this exactly 5 times in a row like open close wait a sec open close wait a sec 5 times then idles perfect for approx. 30 secs then does the 5 open close cycle again. suspect this is the EGR Valve
Left the car at idle for about 30 with the Peugeot planet connect. No issues.
guess what still stalling. Unplugged each sensor on the air side from maf right up to air pressure sensor one at a time. Each one gave a P???? error code and made no difference. so cleared codes, unplugged EGR valve plug again no difference. and again cleared the codes. HELP...
Regards
Ed.
U codes are an electronic network fault,not particularly related to engine faults.Have you had the injectors tested?.Any excess return spill could cause the fuel pressure to drop sufficiently to cause a cut out situation.Could still be an egr fault,although may not flag a code.Just a thought.
Injectors where tested all ok no leak back spray pattern was fine also. Egr has been blanked to see if that was the cause. nope still done it. The car has plenty of power. Economy is great too. Last summer I went from Glasgow to Nottingham then Windsor then down to The Lizard in penzance on One tank of fuel and still had just under a quater of a Tank, over the last 5800 odd miles the car has returned over 47Mpg thats a mix of every type of driving/road/speed. I think thats great for a car that size. It only does this at idle, there is a slight delay if you plant your foot to the floor before the revs climb. I have checked all the vaccum hoses just in case. Nothing. Surely some one has had this problem. even on another diesel car which uses the same engine. Peugeot just did the normal when it was under warratty, no codes no parts. and then started suggesting that they all did this due to "economy modes" needless to say I have not been back. So i'm starting to think. Fuel regulator valve, High pressure pump some sort of fuel related issue.
Not too long ago,diesel engines were very simple with very little or no electronics.Modern diesels are a very complicated mix of mechanical and electronic components ,far more than any petrol engine.Running tolerances are highly critical on these diesel engines,and it only needs something to be slightly "off beat" to make the engine run poorly or cut out.Throwing expensive parts at a car hoping for a fix is not the way forward,you can't guess anymore.Your problem of stalling/cutting out is proving very difficult to pin down,and unless the live data from the engine can be read while the fault is occuring, to see what is failing,I think you may have a large task.Although it does appear to be a fuel related issue ,I would not bank on it.I wonder if there could be a problem at the rear of car,related to tank pick module?Does this model have an in tank pump?
Thanks for the advise hardway. Today was my first day off work (yep new years day), Drained diesel from filter housing, no debris in jar, Open'd filter houseing and replaced filter and o-ring, checked bottom of filter house , no debris of any sort so bleed the system. Had a look to see where the fuel pressure regulator is. behind air filter box looks really hard to get to. I wonder if is easier to get to it through the passenger side wheel well, (after removing wheel arch liners). Has any one done one of these on a 508 or another hdi engine. The Part is a peugeot/citroen 193339 I believe the delphi part number is 9109-927 same as used on c4, 307,308,407 and funny enough a suzuki jimny.
had a quick look behind the passenger wheel, while an inspection lap was put in front of the FPR, could I see it, not a chance. So went in through the top, out came the airbox, maf sensor and next bit of the air duct. Unclip then feed and return fuel hoses, undid the electrical connections on the Bracket and removed the 3x13mm Nuts and removed the bracket. Using a mirror with lots of lighting. a lot of swearing I wish I was double jointed at times. I got the FPR out. Remove the o-ring at the nose of it and took the mesh filter off. looking through it with light behind it you could see that more than half of it looked milky/whiteish ?? Bad fuel at some stage ??? cleaned it with contact cleaner till it was spotless and refitted, new o-ring on nose and refitted. Start to Finish almost 3Hrs not a easy job. Bleed fuel system and started engine. still a bit rough at times, So used the PP to tell the ecu that FPR had been replaced, after that silky smooth. Took the car for run, no stalling, fuel pressure at idle should be about 230-250bar it stayed very close to that range no massive ups or down. During the drive I watched the pressure it stayed very close even right upto 1500-1600bar. When slowing down it stayed nice smooth no roughness. I will try it over the next few days and see what happens.
Ohhh the tales of woe continue...not as bad. has cut out twice in 3 days. same thing on PP fuel pressure jumps about before dropping below 70 bar the engine cuts out.. but not as quick lots of time to catch it and get the revs up. but still not right. check the injector reading all very close to each other. does not sound like its missing more like running out of fuel type noise and actions. I have ordered up a FPR (from a jimny half the price of the peugeot one.. same delphi part number and same connection) which I will change if for no other reason than peace of mind just incase it has an internal fault. The car is going anyway in March, but my best mate says he would like to buy it (funny enought he was the person using it when it first started all this). If I cant get it cured before march I will use it as the trade in, been given a price of 7500 which seems okay for a 3 1/2 year 56000 mile car. At least changing the FPR swap will be quicker this time....I hope.
Just a quick update, New Fuel Pressure Reguator arrived on Thur so got fitted on Friday, much quicker this time just under 2hrs. Reset the ECU. So far 300 Miles of stop start driving, stuck in traffic.. basically I have been doing anything I can to get the car to stall. but so far its been perfect. no hunting up and down, no stuttering and pressure is within 3bar at idle.
Les initiales du BSI sont compatibles avec les termes de dnomination anglais mais aussi franais puisque en franais cela donne Boitier de Servitude Intelligent et en anglais Built-in System Interface.
Chez la marque Renault il est appel UCH pour Unit de Contrle Habitacle.
Il implique une architecture dite multiplexe : c'est une "nouvelle" manire d'organiser les faisceaux / fils lectriques dans la voiture (le but est de rduire leur nombre afin d'amliorer la rapidit des changes et permettre une centralisation des donnes lectroniques pour que l'ensemble des calculateurs y aient accs).
Ce boitier est trs important puisqu'il va centraliser toutes les informations obtenues par les diffrents capteurs qui se trouvent un peu partout dans les voitures modernes. De plus, il connecte l'ensemble des calculateurs entre eux et pourrait presque faire penser une carte de mre d'ordinateur mme si ce n'est pas vraiment la mme chose. Rsultat, ce systme permet de diviser presque par 10 le nombre de fils ncessaires dans l'habitacle. Il vite en effet certains fils qui seraient redondants sans cette technologie. Le nombre de capteurs est lui aussi en baisse car grce ce montage une sonde peut envoyer ses donnes plusieurs lments.