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Mellissa Sprock

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Aug 5, 2024, 12:13:40 PM8/5/24
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Thisis my first shot of my dual monopole energizer. Both are running a separate ciruit with own 2n3055 transistors. Still have pots in the circuit as i have only had this motor running for less than a couple of weeks and have only just set up an oscilliscope. Still have to really learn how to best tune the trigger resistance properly. Will be testing with 1 ohm resistor on secondary output.

Heres a up close look at one of my coils. I used hot melt glue and fiber glass resin and hardener to create a remarkably strong bond. (cracked alot of fiberglass when pealing off the fiber mesh and duct tape off from previous attempts to secure the magnets down. Now my magnets are completely exposed to the coils on the outside. (much better)


Made some simple probes using 4 diodes (across ground to L and R channel of your sound cards Line-In input)and a 460ohm resistor to end of probe. Virtins Technology includes instructions for making probes in help menu of program (note: use Line in channel of your sound card and not the microphone as the mic only usually supports 1 input channel and Line in will support 2). Here's a couple shots of the H-wave pattern that appeared for me. I'm basically an electronics novice still and have little experience with Oscilliscopes. I have noticed that B channel drops down lower than A with these readings off the collector.


Heres a clearer view of the two circuits bridged together to the same pirmary and secondary batteries. I don't know that this is at all a proper way to set this up, however it does seem to work this way.


Had also been considering using a capacitive discharge in front of the secondary (charging) battery banks. Here is a really good discussion as well as some examples of people using a capacitive discharge, as well as why you might want to use one in your monopole replication.


I grew tired of having to repeatedly refasten my magnets. I actually had a near catastrophic situation where my wheel actually knocked a coil right off of the frame. I decided that some fiber cloth, fiberglass resin and hardener were in order to keep things in their place.


Edit- Just a note to anyone using fiberglass resin and hardener on their model. If you hot melt glue your magnets on and then paint the rim with fiberglass resin and hardener, that will be sufficient to hold them on from what i've seen. There is no need for anything else on top of the magnets on mine anymore.


Have now added two more coils to the wheel and I'm seeing better charging on the secondary banks now. I'm pleased with my progress, however i need to dial in the proper resistance for each coil while adding more coils to the mix. I feel that efficiency will be compromised until i have all 8 coils running and then tune each one individually with the scope. I hope to have the other four coils on soon.


Edit - I really dialed in each circuit with a 1 K pot at the top of the trigger coil of each circuit i tuned it for a combination of best speed vs amp draw. By the time i was done i was running around the 200 ma region for all four coils! That made me happy.


Really having fun now. I've recently been directed to an excellent discussion on the Energetic Forum that was started by Imhotep. Here i've hooked up the coil from Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator to the power coil connection one of the bedini circuits. I have to give the wheel a turn to get it oscillating and then stop it to get the transistor to self oscillate. I'm getting a decent illumination on 2 helicoil 16/20/24watt bulbs and a 15w flourescent wired in series. When i disconnect a lead in the series of bulbs one or more bulbs continues to light! I'm not sure but is that a example of a radiant current flow?


Playing around with some new lithium ion 12v batteries that i just made from 2 - Energizer 6volt E-squared non rechargeable lithium ion batteries. They seem to charge up nice and fast on the circuit especially when the ignition coil is running on one of the SSGs.


I have wheel running really well now on 3 bifilar coils, two running the wheel and the other pulsing the ignition coil. I am finding a higher amperage here at 1.03 amps, however my charging has gone up considerably. For some reason having the ignition coil pulsing the lights is creating a different type of radiant negative charge than i was dealing with on a straight bedini type wheel. Much more radiant i think. Here is a video of me just messing around with a new setup on modvid.com. Or at Youtube Its not meant to illustrate anything in particular. Maybe a little less talking in the next video. The amp draw while self oscillating compared to when the wheel is pulsing is marginal at best. It would appear that running the wheel is the best solution and produces the most charging on the secondary banks that i've seen so far.


Just a note to anyone using fiberglass resin and hardener on their model. If you hot melt glue your magnets on and then paint the rim with fiberglass resin and hardener, that will be sufficient to hold them on from what i've seen. There is no need for anything else on top of the magnets on mine anymore.

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