Kitchen Oxygen Not Included

[Charo Lemucchi]

Mykitchens are rooms, stables actually as I combine it with small shine bug or hatch stables. And I also combine it with the main base entrance sinks so if dupes have any germs on them passing through the base they have to wash their hands. I use strict mono-pathing, ie. there is one, and only one way to get from one point anywhere on the map to another so if dupes need to go from one side of the map to the other they have to pass through the base.

Its planned with automation in mind, and used chlorine food storage to kill of germs and avoid wasting power on storage (though I probably going to settle for CO2 unless I can figure out a better way to avoid the CO2 pushing out the chlorine)

My design doubles as a bit of a decor bomb, since dupes eating on the top floor can see the paintings on the bottom through the airflow tiles. Automation keeps the chlorine level steady even when the base oxygen pressure drops.

Most of my fridges are actually powered. I use that to disable my pincha pepper and bristle blossom farms, as in turning off the lights and cutting the water supply when I have stockpiled enough of either.

We don't disable kitchen when full. With ability to store any food infinitive in CO2 or Cl, It better to store them that way. All ingredient will spoil if they don't get stored too, so better cook them to dishes before they spoil.

NO, i mean even when you cut your water supply, it still consume all remaining water in the pipe without growing because there are no lights. That why that a waste of water. And light are cheap, really really cheap, what the pointof cutting those...

Ok. Let me spell it out for you. My water distribution to the plants is 100% equal so I only need one pipe sensor in front of one of the hydroponic tiles. When that is empty it sets off a 150s timer by the end of which the lights go off. The 5kg water in the hydroponic tile is exactly 150s worth of growth.

turn off auto sweeper 3 secs after it collect something, also with my setup dups don't have to travel between Cl or CO2 or any water lock because they simply can just grab the foods from 2 tiles distance.

Composting is a controlled, aerobic (oxygen-required) process that converts organic materials into a nutrient-rich, biologically-stable soil amendment or mulch through natural decomposition. The end product is compost. Microorganisms feed on the materials added to the compost pile during the composting process. They use carbon and nitrogen to grow and reproduce, water to digest materials, and oxygen to breathe.

If you are a community looking to support your constituents in their efforts to compost at home, or wish to increase participation in a curbside collection program, you may be interested in the following resource: Composting Food Scraps in Your Community: A Social Marketing Toolkit.

Determine how you will collect and store your browns and greens.

Collect and store your fruit and vegetable scraps in a closed container on your kitchen counter, under your sink, or in your fridge or freezer. For browns, set aside an area outside to store your steady supply of leaves, twigs, or other carbon-rich material (to mix with your food scraps).

Set aside space for your compost pile and build or buy a bin.

Choose a space in your yard for your compost pile that is easily accessible year-round and has good drainage. Avoid placing it right up against a fence and ensure there is a water source nearby. Your compost pile will break down in sun or shade. Next, choose a type of bin for your pile. Bins can be constructed from materials such as wire, wood, and cinder blocks. They can also be enclosed and include barrels and tumblers.

Prepare your ingredients for composting.

Before adding your browns and greens to the pile, try to chop and break them up into smaller pieces (e.g., corn cobs, broccoli stalks, and other tough food scraps). Doing so will help the materials in the pile break down faster.

How to build your compost pile.

Start your pile with a four- to six-inch layer of bulky browns such as twigs and wood chips. This layer absorbs extra liquids, elevates your pile and allows air to circulate at the base of the pile. Then layer your greens and browns like lasagna. If needed, add a little water to dampen the pile.

Having the right proportions of ingredients in your compost pile will provide the composting microorganisms the carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, and moisture they need to break down the materials into finished compost.

When adding browns and greens to your pile, add at least two to three times the volume of browns (such as dry leaves) to the volume of greens (such as food scraps). Always ensure your food scraps are covered by four to eight inches of dry leaves or other browns.

Air and water are the other key ingredients in your pile. To ensure air circulation, add enough browns and turn your compost occasionally. To maintain moisture in your pile, ensure your combined materials have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.

Maintain your compost pile.

As the materials in your compost pile begin to decompose, the temperature of the pile will initially begin to rise, especially in the center. A backyard pile, if well maintained, can reach temperatures of 130 to 160 F. High temperatures help reduce the presence of pathogens and weed seeds.

Turning and mixing your pile from time to time will help speed up the decomposition process and aerate the pile. Use a garden fork to turn the outside of the pile inward.

Monitor your pile for moisture, odor, and temperature and make adjustments as needed.

Harvest your finished compost.

When your compost pile is no longer heating up after mixing, and when there are no visible food scraps, allow your pile to cure, or finish, for at least four weeks. You can relocate the oldest compost at the bottom of the pile to a separate area to cure or stop adding materials to your pile. After curing, your pile will shrink to about one-third of its original size.

Worm composting, or vermicomposting, is another method of composting you can try at home. It takes up little space, the materials are simple and inexpensive, and it can be done indoors or outdoors. You will need a container or bin, bedding material, worms, and food scraps. If your worm bin is properly maintained, it should not emit odors or attract pests. The resulting product is vermicompost, a soil amendment.

You can purchase a worm bin or make your own of untreated wood or plastic storage bins. The bin should have a tight-fitting lid and be a dark color to keep out light. If using plastic storage containers, drill air holes around the upper sides of one bin near the lid and drainage holes on the bottom of the same bin. Place the bin with the drilled holes inside the other bin. (The bottom bin will catch any liquid that drains out of the top bin.)

Choose a space for your worm bin.

You can keep your worm bin indoors (e.g., under a sink, in a closet or basement) or outdoors in the shade. If your bin is outdoors (e.g., garage, carport, porch, deck, or apartment balcony), insulate the bin with blankets, straw, or other materials to keep it warm during colder months. You want to maintain a bin temperature of 59 to 77 F; however, the worms can survive at 32 to 95 F if they have at least four inches of bedding.

Start your bin and feed your worms.

Place worms on top of the bedding in the bin. Once the worms have settled in the bin, add some food scraps on the surface of the bedding. Each time you add food scraps, make sure to cover them with two inches of bedding. Adding the proper ratio of materials to the bin and covering them is important. Worms eat about 25 percent of their weight each day. As worms reproduce quickly, you can increase the amount you feed them. Always ensure the food scraps have been eaten before adding more.

You can add compost to your flower and vegetable beds, window boxes, and container gardens; incorporate it into tree beds; mix it with potting soil for indoor plants; or spread it on top of the soil in your yard.

Compost can be used as a soil amendment or as a mulch. As a soil amendment, mix in two to four inches of compost to the top six to nine inches of your soil. As a mulch, loosen the top two to three inches of soil and add a three-inch layer of compost on the surface, a few inches away from plant stems and tree trunks.

Mention of or referral to commercial products or services or links to non-EPA sites does not imply official EPA endorsement of or responsibility for the opinions, ideas, data, or products presented at those locations or guarantee the validity of the information provided. Mention of commercial products/services on non-EPA websites is provided solely as a pointer to information on topics related to environmental protection that may be useful to EPA staff and the public.

The reason I first became interested in these was because they came up in my research, when I was exploring ways to preserve food that I had dried with my food dehydrator. I wanted my food to last throughout the year and stay crisp.

The moisture and air are absorbed, but the powder inside the packet is kept secure and separate from edible items. This means you can place the packets directly on your food in the appropriate container, without having to worry about these items becoming contaminated.

Products with a high oil content (like nuts, seeds, and whole grains) will have a shorter shelf life than other products. If you are uncertain as to which specific items may be preserved with these products, I encourage you to do further research.

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