Ks Sound

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Clidia Panahon

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Aug 5, 2024, 7:09:50 AM8/5/24
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Topronounce /ks/, begin by lifting the back of your tongue and pressing it against your soft palate (the top of the back of your mouth). Push air from your throat, stopping it briefly behind your tongue, before releasing the air. As you release it, lift the tip of your tongue so it is very close to (but not completely touching) the top of your mouth, behind your teeth. Force the air between the tip of your tongue and the roof of your mouth. You should feel some resistance (friction).

Listen to how each tongue twister is pronounced. Be sure to note the sounds or words that might be challenging for you, and how many times you will pronounce /ks/.

Exceptional success scarcely masks scrutiny.

Accept the exceptions except the scams.


Schedule a One-to-One Session to learn more about this sound and how to master it. Receiving direct, personalized feedback on your pronunciation is an excellent way to pinpoint your strengths and areas for improvement.

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What's up with the clacking noise that my new KS-S18 has started to make lately as if part of the wheel is hitting the housing? Although I doubt that is the reason since it only happens when riding, not when the wheel is free spinning. I think lately I saw someone post a video where you could hear his make the same noise.


the sound could be the result of a more serious and dangerous problem or it could be something that you can ignore. but more than likely, its something you cannot ignore. provide more details in your next posting please,...


More thinking and such.. My noise was happening only while turning right. And once tire has done full circle. My VALVE was coming out right side. And as my tire touched the ground it got suppressed under my weight. And when tire left the ground/valve area - the VALVE would spring back somehow. And make that "TUK" noise. The rim had 1-2mm gap where valve comes out of rim hole. It was enough space to make a noise, as it would move around. I simply used some HEAT SHRINKS over the valve stem and it stopped making that noise..


What makes this even more of a mystery is that it is not a constant. On my ride today, it made no clacking sound at all. There is some variable that is unaccounted for such as heat perhaps. Today was much cooler than it was on my last ride.


Mine makes a "knocking" sound when I ride, but not every time. Comes and goes.



Started to notice this after I changed the stock tire for a TR1. A couple of small "spacers" (flat round metal donuts) came off, and I didn't put them back in as I didn't know where they went. Turns out they go on top of the axle, on both sides. One is slightly thicker than the other, so I'm thinking of putting it on the left side, where most of the noise seems to come from.



Haven't reinstalled them yet, the S18 is a bit of a pain to disassemble and put back together. Will update when done.


It could be that the thicker pile should go on the right side instead, so that it might tilt the shell more to the left to give more room at the left side of the tire/motor. Best check the alignment before putting the wheel back together.


I'm not sure that a video would help diagnose the problem, but I'll try to get a recording anyway. I discovered yesterday that it will make that clacking/knocking/tapping sound even when trollying. I was hoping that this was a known issue with the S18 so that the answer wouldn't depend on speculation and forensics based on my description, even with a recording.


That is the popular theory, but there is nothing unusual about the valve's placement. It's exactly in the same state as it was for the first 200 miles before the sound first started. It is also very intermittent. Some days it is not there, some days it is. Sometimes it is absent for the first hour and then is there for the next hour. Sometimes it only happens when turning or veering left and absent when turning or veering right.


You may be able to do the rubber "mallet fix" with the motor in situ or it may need to be removed if access on the S18 does not allow. This sometimes fixes the issue, but the motor will have to be removed and stripped to fix the bearings in place with "Bearing Fit" Loctite if this fix only gives temporary results:


Took it off and made a bit of roughness on the axel where the bearing sits. Actually i think we made it to rough as we had troubled putting back on.. But that + bearing glue fixed the problem real good.


Sounds good if that's working for you. I'd love to see something working well especially something that's easier and more robust than pyo. And this supports Python3 which is a bonus too (pyo is one of the libs holding us back to py2)


I had some issues with the wdm-ks drivers as well, however. I tested the latency on a Windows8 computer with a cheap onboad sound card a few days ago. The delay was also low (around 1ms), but only 40ms of the 50ms sound were actually played back. 10ms were missing each time, when the sound was played. I should try it out with the OutputStream.write() method one time.


I've also seen the problem that the beginning and/or the end of the sound are not played. I don't know if that's a PortAudio problem or a problem of the underlying audio drivers. This is yet another reason to start the stream in the beginning of the session, some time before the actual audio signals are to be played back.


According to the PortAudio docs, the blocking API is not supported on all host APIs, it looks like WDM-KS is one of those. I don't know if this is supported in a more recent development version of PortAudio?


I'd recommend that you write your own callback function. In the beginning, it would only write zeros to the output. As soon as an audio signal is to be played back, this function should write blocks of it to the output.


If that actually works, you could put in the extra effort to re-write the callback function in C and compile it with CFFI in API/out-of-line mode. This should give you the most reliable performance, since Python wouldn't be involved at all in the callback.


State-of-the-art audio-video. Crisp, clear drive-thru intercoms. Seamless equipment rentals. Outstanding service and maintenance. McClelland meets the demands of your business. Let our professional, knowledgeable team work with you to provide unique solutions and forward thinking for your commercial project, large or small. We serve Kansas and Oklahoma, for all your business and residential AV needs.


I wanted to give some huge kudos to Derek. He came out to Hope Mennonite Monday evening and with endless patience answered all our questions and helped us trouble shoot many issues. He was kind and listened to our concerns. He helped us make changes that I think will help us train other church volunteers in using the system.


I am super excited to give it another go this weekend and anticipate a perfect session. I am smarter for having spent time with Derek this evening and am grateful to McClelland and all of you, for the support you have given us.


I would like to take a moment to thank everyone at McClelland. From our sound board, to our wireless mics and IFBs (Intermittent Feedback). We could not be happier! The sales and service has been spectacular. Paul, Dustin, Lee, and David listened to what we needed, designed a plan, and executed a flawless install, not once, but twice. I would recommend this team to anyone!


vtuser, I would start with your phone. Besides any settings in your audio program you s/b able to go to settings/sounds & vibration/sound quality and effects. You should find an equalizer where you can adjust the sound to your liking.


Meisterklasse represents SONOR's uncompromising standards towards sound quality and craftsmanship made in Germany. It is the top line within the SONOR Orff-assortment and includes the largest variety of instruments all made from the highest quality materials. Staggered resonator boxes made from pine and perfectly tuned sound bars made from high-quality aluminum, steel or precious genuine rosewood guarantee the perfect SONOR sound and unparalled quality that can be enjoyed for decades.


Has anyone here used KS Audio products and could chime in about their experience? I'm potentially looking to either buy more of or replacing my QSC GP212 subs and am ideally looking for a nice compact powered 2x15, the KS Audio CPD-W2 certainly fits the bill.


I've used the 8" powered line array 3 times, and I know Nobert and Eric, the guys in Clearwater that rep that stuff. It is VERY impresssive stuff. Well laid out, well thought out, loud, clear, and easy as pie. The catch is that you HAVE to use their processing and amps (only on passive cabs). EVERYTHING, just like Apple, is propreitary, no substitutions allowed. Their floor monitors are great stuff, and pretty light. Pretty much can't say enough about them, they are great products. If you get a chance to try the stuff out, do it. If you need more info on how to get in touch with these guys, email me Graham at CompassRI.com.


I just spoke with 2 reps from KS Audio. Norbert, who called me yesterday afternoon from the MusicMesse show, and what I can only assume was late night for him (time difference). And another rep this morning... think it was Eric.


I called Norbert from KS Audio about a month ago after reading a FOH Mag review on his gear and inquiring about the product. Norbert is more "mad scientist" than "salesman", which I view as a good thing. He's more interested in selling you what you need, versus up-selling a larger system.... and he DOES know his stuff.

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