How To Re Calibrate Xbox One Controller

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Alana Fekety

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Aug 5, 2024, 2:33:28 PM8/5/24
to basuppdepo
Microsofthas done an excellent job ensuring compatibility between Xbox and Windows. However, before you can utilise the Microsoft answer, you'll need to calibrate the Xbox One controller. Problems with the game's axis, drifting controls, thumbstick sensitivity, and so on are all corrected. The controller may be returned to restore its silky smoothness.

The controller being out of calibration is a typical cause of these problems. You have upgraded the controller for your Windows computer. If you haven't used the PC controller in a while, it may not recognise your movements. After installing an update, Steam, Epic Games, or Windows may alter your controller's settings automatically. Wearing and tear, dust, and rust may all be indicators of physical damage to a controller.


Resetting the preferences is the first option. Manually calibrating a peripheral device may be challenging. Thus, testing it beforehand is recommended. Furthermore, the option may be used in case the manual calibration fails.


Second pass: the back is much improved, so kudos for that. The front (picture #3) is still missing all the same lower-left details, the alignment's slightly different and the color's slightly shifted to teal for some reason.


This product doesn't work properly it only had one side of the head set working, and the the controller is really cheap the battery dies really fast and has a very serious malfunction where the game isn't playable


For anyone that is using the FBWA320 with the Xbox controller. What is the proper way to calibrate the reversers? Not sure if you guys use the right trigger to engage them or another input on the controller.


Can I ask, with a top of the line PC with a GPU thats worth 2k+ and your into fly simming, why are you using a Xbox control when you could buy a stick at least and some rudders. To enhance your sim'ing or is msfs more a game?


Probably just using it for the drone and just wants to program the reversers on a button. I was thinking about doing that but I purchased axis and ohs and make programming stuff like that very easy on my throttle quadrant


Just as reWASD 1.2 rolled in with the highly anticipated mouse emulation feature, many of you demanded some of the features that help you calibrate Xbox One controller. The newest version permits you to invert the Y and X axes on sticks, customize the deadzone to eliminate Xbox One controller stick drift in case if your Xbox One controller moves on its own, change the sticks response and some other features that change Xbox Elite controller stick settings the way that is comfortable for you. All these features work for Xbox Elite, One, 360, DualShock 3 and 4.


I replaced the thumbsticks on my 1697 model with new hall effect based thumbsticks. Is it possible to calibrate the thumb sticks? The controller firmware seems to have internal stored calibration values of old ALPS potentiometer thumbsticks. Unfortunately the new ones are slightly off center and have different full-scale deflection ratio. At about 50% stick deflection the controller reports 100% value. I accuse the stored calibration, because I measured the full-scale deflection linearity of hall effect sensor in circuit. Output voltage range of hall effect sensor "wiper pin" is about 0.2V - 1.7V but interpreted range of ADC input seems to be somewhere from 0.5V - 1.4V.


I guess the controller still has its original firmware and I cannot upgrade firmware or use XBOX Accessories App (also the downgrade launch option doesn't help). Tried on multiple PCs with USB or wireless.


I also tried newer XBOX controllers, but I do not want to use them as they still do not use hall effect sensors and even worse, the firmware uses an integrated averaging filter for the thumbstick to "heal" drift issues, so that users won't notice the drift. However this filter leads to a square gating and not a circular gating stick movement.


I agree the "self healing" thing is a bad idea. It doesn't fix anything, it just borrows accuracy from one area to give to another. Same with those solder on circuit potentiometer boards, they just steal from the outer circularity to give to the center accuracy. "Intermediate op-amp mod".


If you replaced the modules (or even just the potentiometers) with similar graphite based ones your only option to "calibrate" afterwards is to solder in small low value resistors between the potentiometer legs, where appropriate. Value is based on what % off center it is. This method doesn't seem to steal from the outer circularity. There are videos on youtube regarding this process.


If you replaced them with Hall Effect modules, the Hall Effect modules have to be manually physically calibrated, again also there are some videos on that process. Personally I thus far have only upgraded joycons and dual sense controllers to Hall Effect. I have read though some people saying that the Hall Effect sticks interfere with the Hall sensors of the triggers. However I have also come across still yet other people saying they haven't had a problem with that.


Would be cool to have a software based CFW way to solve this. Soldering in the tiny resistors isn't too much trouble but...it would definitely be cooler to just plug it in flash the chip and be done. But how would one dump the OFW and flash the CFW? Pi Pico maybe? TTL maybe? Only thing is you'd have to block official firmware updates, and who knows if CFW on your controller could net you a ban from xbox live, unknown. Interesting thought, good luck.


I need some help to figure out the weird message I get into the Joy calibration window; even if I calibrated the joy and double checked all the assigned axes and key, I still get the message in the screenshot below: "Multiple axes assigned to pitch, roll, yaw".


Honestly sounds weird for me having this error message...I keep both Gladiator and XBox controller always plugged in and with other Sims I have no issue at all...since of course I cannot use both at the same time ( Ithink)...MSFS 2020, DCS or other sims give no error messages about that.....


The issue you all have described is precisely the one I've discovered in the process of trying to figure out why XPlane won't recognize pitch /roll/yaw input from my CH flight sim yoke (all other buttons and switches work fine and are fully assignable. Plus, I know the three axes are working as I can observe the inputs in the calibration routine).


I'm inclined to agree with Dan's assessment, that it's a default of some kind. Because, in my case, I have no XBox 360 controller plugged in, nor do I have any additional hdwe plugged in besides a mouse and 2nd monitor (both of which I've run the pgm without - just to be sure). And yet, there's the XBox 360 controller, in every hdwe profile, right alongside the flight yoke and pedals.


The question for me is, how do I get rid of it? The (nonexistent) XBox controller seems to be taking priority over the (extant) CH flight sim yoke and pedals that are plugged in. Either that, or the conflict renders these axes null. I've tried everything I can think of to get rid of the XBox 360 profile (there's no "delete" option in setup), including wiping my preferences folder, selecting "ignore" on all axes for the XBox controller, and deleting the Xbox 360 file from the joystick config folder. Nothing has worked - it stubbornly remains, leaving me no way to control the airplane (I actually made a successful departure from SeaTac and a 1 hr. flight using nothing but throttle, pitch & elevator trim, but that's not a fun way to fly, and I stalled on landing by deploying flaps).


I can only think it's a glitch, or perhaps I was queried at some point during installation and given a list of controllers to choose from? I don't recall this, but that doesn't mean it didn't happen. And it seems rather coincidental that XBox 360 is the culprit in every case. Not sure why I would have chosen that one, anyway, unless it was first on the list - I've never owned an XBox of any kind.


Thanks - I tried that, along with a whole bunch of other things. The XBox 360 controller remains stubbornly omnipresent in every user profile, even though this computer has never had one plugged into it.


However, I am very happy to report that I finally figured out how to disable it... At the top right of each joystick section on the configuration screen is a slider marked "Axis / Hat". I'm a little chagrined that I never noticed them before, but once I slid that little hummer over to "Hat" (apparently assigning the joystick impulses as hat controls rather than axis controls) my flight yoke suddenly worked!


The file contains the diagnostic information that could help answer your question. I can only venture a guess without it and I'll guess that you may have installed X-Plane under a system-owned location or in a folder hierarchy where you may be lacking permissions to save the files in which the calibration information would be saved.


To calibrate your Xbox One controller, make sure you have an up-to-date version of the Xbox One console software. Then, connect the controller to your console via a USB cable, and press the Xbox button to turn it on. Next, press the menu button on the controller and select Settings, followed by Devices & Accessories. Finally, select the controller you want to calibrate and choose Calibrate Controller.


Calibrating an Xbox One controller is a simple process that only takes a few minutes of your time. It is important to calibrate your controller in order to ensure that it is functioning properly and that you are getting the most out of your gaming experience. Calibrating your controller allows you to adjust the sensitivity and accuracy of your controller, as well as ensure that all of the buttons are working correctly.

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