Which Is Better Coorg Or Madikeri

[Rene Seiler]

Thisarticle takes you through that road trip in some detail, and captures the essence of these beautiful destinations- Shravanabelagola and Coorg. For more such destinations in south India, refer to my articles on Coastal Karnataka Ooty.

Covid-19 ruined our travel plans completely in 2020. Parina got the virus in Aug-Sep 2020; that made things more complex for us. However, in December 2020, we decided for ourselves that enough was enough! We wanted to travel again, and end the year on a happy note. So, we planned this trip to south India: Bangalore- Shravanabelagola- Coorg- Mangaluru circuit by road.

We started the trip in Bengaluru by meeting my best buddy (Silu) and his sweet family and then moved to Coorg via Shravanabelagola. Sajith, another best friend and his adorable family used to live in Mysuru those days, a town not far from Coorg. They came down to Coorg, and we had a family get-together. The road-trip ended in Mangaluru, and we flew back to Delhi from there.

To start with, flying out of a chilly Delhi weather in December to a pleasant Bengaluru weather was a big relief. We spent more than a day with Silu, Lini, and the kids (Ishu and Sona), and explored Bengaluru a bit together. Moreover, it was so good to meet him after a long time!

We were a close group of six friends at the university. Just after our university days, we had made emotional plans of meeting each other every year! But it panned out, like with most people in modern times, that we hardly meet each other afterwards. So, whenever we get a chance to meet up, it becomes moments to cherish.

It took us about 30 minutes to climb to the top- not too difficult. However, on the way, the inscriptions near Odegal Basadi were particularly impressive. It was fascinating to observe how sculptors had inscribed those words and images on rock walls. I wished I could read those inscriptions myself.

I like observing people in their religious elements and experience the vibrant energy that these places exude. Observing a stark naked monk meditating serenely with equanimity at the feet of Gomateshwara (Lord Bahubali) among hundreds of visitors was an extraordinary experience.

A grand ceremony called Mahamastakabhisheka (head anointing ceremony) is held there every 12 years. The last one was in 2018; so, the next one comes up in 2030. So, if you want to witness the great ceremony, mark your date. It must be awe inspiring to see thousands of devotees pour tons of milk, saffron, flowers, sandal paste, honey, etc on the head of Gomateshwar statue.

We left Shravanabelagola around 2.30 PM. The distance of 140 kms to Coorg was pleasurable with views of green fields, lakes, sparse forests and villages. It took us about 4 hours to reach Coorg where Sajith and family were waiting for us. They had already checked in at a guest house. It was another wonderful moment to meet Sajith, Anu and their little champion, Siddhu, who we saw for the first time after his birth.

With a history spanning more than a thousand years, Coorg oozes an ancient vibe. However, it was only after 1834 when the British took over the reigns from the Wodeyars, this quaint little town gradually grew into a beautiful hill station.

In the coffee land, our first stop was always going to be a coffee estate- Mercara Gold Estate (9 kms away). They offered a guided tour of the plantation, and offered us some best coffee. Along with coffee, the lovely estate had quite a few other exotic spices and herbs plantations like cinnamon, black pepper, cocoa, vanilla and cardamom.

We visited their coffee processing unit where the guide showed us the different varieties of coffee beans, and explained to us the process of manufacturing coffee. The walk around the estate was as much enjoyable as educative.

I think Baba Budan deserves better recognition for being the father of Indian coffee. In 1670, while coming back to India from Yemen after his pilgrimage to Mecca, in his curiosity, he carried a few coffee beans in his bag. Back in Chikmagalur, he planted them on a hill that is now known as Baba Budan Giri. And the rest is history!

Coorg today produces nearly 35% (equivalent to 130,000 MT) of coffee produced in India which is the largest pie. Though there are quite a few varieties of coffee grown in Coorg, the prominent ones are Arabica and Robusta.

Arabica is smoother, and sweeter taste with tinge of chocolaty flavour. On the other hand, Robusta is a little stronger, bitter and harsher in taste. While preferences can change from person to person, it is the Arabica variety that is most popular. The most popular Coffee chain in the world also uses Arabica variety.

The Brahmagiri hills on all sides, green forests and small streams flowing across the landscape of Coorg make it such a lovely place to unwind from a hectic life. People often compare it with Scotland mainly because of its similar terrain (the rolling hills and meadows) and also because of the weather, architecture and society.

Coorg remains pleasant through out the year. But I think it must be especially beautiful in the monsoon with rain soaked hills and forests engulfed by a misty blanket of thick clouds. We were there in December which gave us opportunity to move around without much trouble. But next time, it will be a monsoon that we will choose to be there.

Early in the afternoon, we visited the Abbey falls, not far from the town (6 kms). Cascading from a height of 70 feet straight out of a lush green hill slope, it was a charming sight. However, to be honest, it was too crowded to enjoy properly. From the entry point, a walk-way has been created to reach the falls; but with thousands of tourists walking down to the view point was always going to make it not-so-enjoyable. We wanted to spend some time there, but there was hardly any space near the view point! It was hard even to take a few good pictures, let alone spend time!

No visit to Coorg is complete without having the taste of original Coorg coffee. So, we headed to Ainmane cafe, one of the best in Coorg. But it was not only about the freshness of coffee, but also the feeling of having it there in the coffee country itself. They also sell varieties of coffee in their brand name; we bought a packet of filter coffee.

After three days of peaceful sojourn in Coorg, we headed for Mangaluru airport while Sajith and family moved to their home in Mysuru. We reached Mangaluru in the afternoon, but our flight to Delhi was late in the evening. So, we got ample time to visit the Panamburu beach.

Even though it was December, it was really hot in Mangaluru, and to be honest, the beach was not much enjoyable in the afternoon. I walked around taking some pictures of the wild flowers on the beach. We sat here and there, had some street food on the beach and waited for the sunset. As always, it was wonderful watching the sun go down the horizon over the Arabian sea.

Road trips are generally tiring. However, as it was a pandemic year, we took utmost care and did this road trip by taxi at an easy pace. We met two best of friends and their families, spent some unforgettable moments with them. I realize that one travels alone for fulfillment, and travels with loved ones for moments to cherish forever. I can easily say that people who travel together, remain friends forever.

Looking back, I am amazed by the diversity of this road trip- especially covering Shravanabelagola and Coorg. It had everything: started in a modern metropolis, moved to one of the most important pilgrimage sites in India with historic ruins, then to an enchanting hill station in the western ghat mountains, and culminating in a wonderful beach town.

Have you ever had such a diverse road trip? If yes, please share your experience. Also if you have visited any of the destinations covered in this trip, do let us know which one you liked the most. Please share your feedback in the comments section, or write to us at stamped...@gmail.com.

Madikeri or Mercara, the capital of Coorg is a beautiful large hill town situated in Western Ghats. This hill station stands 1452 meters above sea level. The green woody slopes, colourful scenery, misty mountains, cascading falls, dense tropical forest, tea, coffee and spice plantations made this place a paradise of nature lovers.

Abbey falls located between the natural greenery of coffee plantations and spice estates is blessed with stunning beauty and serene calm. The falls has a wild beauty. Water cascading over rocks into the pool. The roaring sound of the waterfalls can be heard from the road.

During Monsoon the water flow is very high and in dry seasons the flow is low. There is a hanging bridge here providing the amazing sight of this waterfalls. The best time to visit Abbey falls is early winter.

Chiklihole Reservoir is place to be visited if your time permits. The place is away from the usual crowd at popular tourist spots and offers some calm and peace to its visitors. The water of the dam flowing beautifully and the lushness of area around create a refreshing atmosphere.

On one of the tributaries of the River Cauvery, the reservoir offer tourists with seclusion and privacy unlike other tourist spots. The dense forest along with the rich flora and fauna add on to the charm of the place. It is a great picnic spot and thus perfect for family outing as well. The place with amazing scenic beauty is nothing less than paradise for photographers. Sunset view is mesmerizing from here and an experience in itself.

The place has no shops nearby and thus tourists are required to carry all the basic amenities with them while visiting the reservoir. The best time to visit the place is during the month of June to March that is in the monsoon and winter season.

The reservoir is located quite close to the Dubare forest reserve which is just few kilometers away. One can visit the forest reserve as well which offers good opportunities for trekking and nature walks.

Dubare Elephant Camp is situated on the banks of River Kaveri in Coorg district of Karnataka state. A popular tourist spots, the camp attracts tourists, especially wildlife enthusiast from all over the world. It presents tourists with an opportunity to be close to elephants and engage in various activities related to them.

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