D Light M100 Flash File Free Download
Simone Alwang
I am wondering how much I would miss the hot shoe. I would use the hot shoe 1-2 times a year for the rare occasion when a flash is necessary and acceptable, like selected school functions. I would be willing, for those rare occasions, to mount a speedlight on a bracket that screws onto the camera's tripod mount. Can the M100 drive a flash in this manner? Either remotely via its built-in flash, or via a cable? (do flashes still connect to cameras via cable? Last time I did that was in the days of film).
For those models that don't have the shoe your only option is an optical slave, but you have to be sure you will be the only one who used a flash in this room, because that would be quickly become annoying
I am having Canon M100 for 2-3 months, I am very happy with it's portability, video quality and overall performance. But I am very disappointed with it's low light perfromance when I take it at night parties to shoot people. It would constantly hunt for focus for about 5-10 seconds shining red light in the person's face blinding him.
We can see, there's less detail in Samsung's photo, but it is lighter and lightening up Canon's photo bring a lot of Noize, either RAW or JPEG.
Is there anything I could do, to improve performance ? I was thinking of buying EF-M 22mm, but I am very afraid to invest money, if it won't even help focusing speed, compared to kit 15-45mm lens.
The thing to remember is that if you're shooting in JPG, many cameras tend to get indoor, tungsten lit (regular light bulbs) wrong - meaning, either too orange with lots of noise, or slightly greenish. Same holds true for many fluorescent bulb scenarios, where greenish hues influence the entire photo.
Your samsung has a f1.7 lens (2 2/3 stops faster than the canon kit lens) and a much smaller sensor. These two things combined allow it to focus quick and in less light. As sensors get larger so does the power requirements for focusing.
For the noise appearance though, one needs to estimate the total number of photons incident on the whole sensor surface. Here's again, the phone has an advantage - even that it's sensor area is about 13 times smaller - 25mm2 compared to 330mm2 but the x30 gain in the photon density puts it ahead by a factor of 2 in the total amount of light and thus in lower noise.
Canon M100 is considered to be entry level camera and a step-up from a smartphone. And it truly is, unless we are talking about autofocus speed in low light. In your words I'd better invest these 500 USD into a better smartphone, than buying a Canon M100 ?
I was expecting it to be faster+sharper focus, better low-light as of Crop sensor size (larger that even 4/3) and better bokeh, simply because of sensor size per buck.
These are auto setting and quite relative. Yes, the photo on a Canon would be much lighter on a 1/4, but the autofocus speed is as poor, as at 1/30. ISO 1250 is about a maximum on Samsung S7, consider it comparable to 12800-25600 of a Canon M100.
Yes, I could switch of red light bulb, but it won't focus any better. Manual focus is much better in low light, there is even red highlight of edges. I am surprised it can highlight focus in red, but can't autofocus, that is pointless.
So, from what I can see I have to consider ditching it for AAA phone, or hoping for a 22mm, but it's unlikely it will be much better. Maybe there are some competitors, which at reasonable price are better than a smartphone in every single category ?
You can't really shoot people with a tripod, they would get blurry with long shutter speeds.
But, by your calculations, is it better, to go with a f1.4 lens on a 4/3, than f1.8-2.0 APC ?
I was really hoping the bigger sensor to have better performance in low light
You can't really shoot people with a tripod, they would get blurry with long shutter speeds.
But, by your calculations, is it better, to go with a f1.4 lens on a 4/3, than f1.8-2.0 APC ?
I was really hoping the bigger sensor to have better performance in low light
Very roughly (!!!), if two images are displayed at the same size, then the noise levels of the two would be comparable if the two sensors have obtained the same total amount of light. So, again very roughly, if one sensor is 2 times larger (in area) then its image would display the same amount of noise at twice the shutter speed (or one stop narrower the aperture). I
Canon M100 is considered to be entry level camera and a step-up from a smartphone. And it truly is, unless we are talking about autofocus speed in low light. In your words I'd better invest these 500 USD into a better smartphone, than buying a Canon M100 ?
I was expecting it to be faster+sharper focus, better low-light as of Crop sensor size (larger that even 4/3) and better bokeh, simply because of sensor size per buck.
These are auto setting and quite relative. Yes, the photo on a Canon would be much lighter on a 1/4, but the autofocus speed is as poor, as at 1/30. ISO 1250 is about a maximum on Samsung S7, consider it comparable to 12800-25600 of a Canon M100.
Yes, I could switch of red light bulb, but it won't focus any better. Manual focus is much better in low light, there is even red highlight of edges. I am surprised it can highlight focus in red, but can't autofocus, that is pointless.
So, from what I can see I have to consider ditching it for AAA phone, or hoping for a 22mm, but it's unlikely it will be much better. Maybe there are some competitors, which at reasonable price are better than a smartphone in every single category ?
These are auto setting and quite relative. Yes, the photo on a Canon would be much lighter on a 1/4, but the autofocus speed is as poor, as at 1/30. ISO 1250 is about a maximum on Samsung S7, consider it comparable to 12800-25600 of a Canon M100.
Yes, I could switch of red light bulb, but it won't focus any better.
The EF-M 22mm would help the low light AF a bit by letting in more light, but that lens is also slower to focus than the other EF-M lenses. Overall speed should be better, but I still don't think it will be as fast as your S7
If you plan to do a lot of indoor low light shooting, you should probably look at a different camera system. Specifically, Panasonic m4/3 cameras probably have the best low light AF around (AF tracking is a bit worse though). Most of the newer Panasonic bodies also include in-body image stabilization which works great for ALL lenses. Take a look at bodies like the GX85 or newer GX9 and pair it with lenses like the 15mm f1.7 or 20mm f1.7 and you should have no problem with indoor social photos.
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