Blu Ray Disk Player

[Klaudia Aricas]

Ideleted the old Windows versions from the guest to clean up. I deleted the pagefile.I moved all files to the beginning with MyDefrag. I filled the free space with zeroes.The guest usage is only "70 GB", but the host shows 127 GB.

Your question, as I understand it, is how to shrink the size of the VM so that it takes not much more than 70GB of disk space on the host system. It is true that the VMware Player GUI does not offer a shrink option. But as pointed out in a Server Fault discussion, there is still a command line option.

Combining information from both answers offered in that discussion, the recommended procedure begins by running two commands in an elevated administrator cmd window inside the running Windows VM: first dfrgui, and then VMwareToolboxCmd.exe disk shrink c:\. The latter should be run in the folder where the VMwareToolboxCmd.exe file is located. By default, that will be C:\Program Files\VMWare\VMTools. The advice is then to run dfrgui again. (Miklix explains the shrink command for a Linux system, where defragmentation would be less of an issue.)

For those who want to shrink the VM primarily to make the smallest possible backup, my experience is that the compression tool (e.g., 7-Zip or WinRAR, run in the host system) will do approximately the same thing. I seem to wind up with compressed images of relatively similar size, regardless of whether I take the steps just suggested or leave it to the compression tool to squeeze out the unnecessary space.

Same problem for me (and initially would not even charge). Not being recognised by Win10 (also on an HP Pavilion) but also on my Mac with latest MacOS. Hunted down my old netbook running WinXP - also not recognising.

Purchased last year now having the same problem, I have always used the cable that came with it but thanks to the reply that others made I used the cable that came with my ear phones and bingo, THAT WORKED AND THANK YOU !

With the shelter in place requirement, I have time at home to track down and resolve these pesky problems. You eliminated a big frustration that was high on the list. Now on to the fun of doing my taxes.

The biggest mistake was buying a Sandisk device. The fact that it does not work without the original cable makes it useless. What a waste of money. Buyer beware, because the company wont warn you in advance of the serious limitations in using a simple cable to upload files.

I am now on my second WD 2 GB external drive. The first disk last 2 weeks before total corruption. This second disk lasted 2 days until dropping to only 40% health as diagnosed by Hard Drive Sentinel. Prior to that the first disk was used for six months with no disk errors at the computer, and the 2nd disk a whole year.

I occasionally have this problem on my 1.5TB seagate drive. It looks like things I added are not there. To fix it, I eject it from the WD Live and plug it into my PC and run chkdsk. That usually recovers the missing data. Hope this helps.

I have connected the WD media player to the same power strip as the audio components. The audio components are drawing power and causing the WD Drive not to get the power it needs thus causing disk corruption.

Will wait to mark as solution unitl I have tested it out. If I go a couple of weeks or so with the new hookup with no or minimal new bad blocks, then will mark as solution. Will take awhile as I have to put data on a new drive.

Marked the post of what Customer Support told me (get the USB drive off the surge protector that has the stereo equipment attached to it) as the solution since I hooked up a new drive a couple of days ago and no corruption to it after several hours of use.

I have the WD TV Live HD and it seems to be doing the same thing to external usb drives which are powered by the USB port and not external power. I have replaced 2 drives now and the third drive is slowly starting to degrade if I look into the Hard Drive Sentinel stats.

I am stumped. The first drive degraded in the first 3 days I had the device. The second drive in a week and the last drive is now not fixable when putting it into a Windows workstaiton and running checkdsk.

The only time I eject my disks is when I am going to unplug the USB with the power on. I never eject before powering down the WD TV. I often unplug the USB with the WD TV power off, without having ejected. I have never had any disk corruption.

The file system upon which '/home/tacchino/vmware/Windows 10 x64'resides is critically low on free space. Allowing this virtual machineto continue may cause it to fail unexpectedly. VMware Player haspaused this virtual machine because the disk on which the virtualmachine is stored is almost full. To continue, free an additional 12.4GB of disk space.

The partition that your virtual machine is stored in /dev/nvme0n1p2 has 52GB of free space left. The VMDK file storing your VM is currently 69GB, but can grow by another 70GB. It must be assumed that this is a sparse disk image, and that it will enlarge itself as required. It will however currently grow past the physical size that you have available for it.

Reducing the maximum size that the VM disk is allowed to consume. As a Windows device, you would need to first shrink the partition within Windows, and then use VMWare tools to shrink the disk image file. You may require a temporary disk, such as a USB disk, to allow for additional storage while shrinking the VMDK file.

There also is makemkv which when installed can rip the bluray disk to an mkv file after which almost any video player can play it. Of course your drive on the PC must be bluray as well to read the disk.

It would be useful to have that script, or at least the source of the keys. I already have both those libraries installed (libaacs is from rpmfusion, libbluray from fedora) but do not have the needed keys to play the disks.

Your useful script (thank you) came up in a search so I gave it a shot on Fedora 40. It initially failed to copy off the file due to wget not recognizing the --show-progress parameter. I changed that to --force-progress and it worked perfectly.

Hi There - Tried DVDStyler for first time but when I put the disk in my DVD player, it ejected with message that it could not play. I tried the disk in a 2nd player. I also burned a 2nd DVD. Same result. I use DVD Architect on same equipment and never had trouble with burning, and so equipment is probably okay. Burn log showed that burn had completed without errors. I'm in USA and set burn format to NTSA. I've attempted to attache the a screenshot of the burn and of the setup. Thanks for your help!

I would suggest you change you MO so instead of selecting "burn" on the Burn Menu select either "create iso image" or " just generate". Then test either in a software player before burning the DVD with something like ImgBurn.

One thought: My DVD Architect is very buggy, that is why I'm looking for a new program. DVD Architect has a very long list of debugging things to try. I didn't pursue it because it looks like a ton of work, and I've already invested way too much time into the program. I did notice one suggestion was to turn off virus protection software. Could Norton be interfering with either the .iso creation or the DVD burn? Was the fact that it wanted to delete the ImgBurn setup file a clue? Probably not, just thought I'd mention it.

This looks like a problem with Windows not detecting your burner correctly. IMGBurn is very thorough trying to detect your burner, but if the Operating System does not recognize it then there is not much IMGBurn can do.

You need to open Device Manager and check if your burner is listed there without any exclamation mark or any other indication that it is not working correctly. Normal burning devices do not need any special drivers from the manufacturer, Windows has all it needs. So the usual fix for such problems is to uninstall the burner in Device Manager (right-click on it), then do a reboot. Then go to Device Manager again and see if something has changed. Try IMGBurn again.

For troubleshooting you are right on the money to disable your AntiVirus software, but in this case it probably is not your problem. You could also try a different ISO burning software. My favorite is this one:

Manolito - Yes, its USB. I've been running it on my 3.0 port. I tried to burn the .iso with burncdcc on the 2.0 port as you suggested. Same result. Ugh. Thanks to you and JMJ for your help and hanging in there with me. Maybe its time for me to bite the bullet and buy a commercial version.

Top 10 Reviews talks up CyberLink PowerDirector. Is it as good as they say? They have a free trial, guess its worth a shot. They gave Corel VideoStudio X8.5 a perfect 10 on service. Maybe that would be a good route too since I've had so much trouble. It all began back in 2003 when my first daughter was born and my mom, who was last last person in the whole-wide-world to buy a microwave, said that yes, I should buy a camcorder. I bought the latest-and-greatest technology, a big step for me, a Sony Handycam that burns mini DVD's. Great camera, but the DVD's are too short and have crummy menu. So I turned to their editing software to make the family more persentable and to back them up. Buggy, buggy, buggy, for 15 years, even the latest copy I just bought for $45 dollars. I think I still need their downloader to pull the clips off of the miniDVD's, but its time to move on with a different disk authoring tool.

That's when I thought I would venture into the freeware world. Its been fun learning about images, iso files, the differnt tools out there, all the different steps in making a DVD, and meeting kind folks like yourselves willing to lend a hand. But for me, a perpetual novice and universal collector of software bugs, maybe I should move on... get a life, see the big picture, prey open my wallet! Lol, just jabbing myself a little. ... and rambling.

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