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Hillside Supper Club, the local restaurant with the $20 corkage, sent
out an e-mail announcing a special-event dinner, in which each of the
courses will be paired with a fancy beer. Dessert includes chocolate
cake with a frosting made of pork fat.
I thought pork fat frosting would make for a lighthearted ba.food
post. But the e-mail included the word "Cicerone," which I had to look
up, and which, amazingly, connects beer to Cicero, thus completing a
ba.food hat trick.
From Wikipedia:
"Cicerone is an old term for a guide, one who conducts visitors and
sightseers to museums, galleries, etc., and explains matters of
archaeological, antiquarian, historic or artistic interest. The word
is presumably taken from Marcus Tullius Cicero, as a type of learning
and eloquence..."
"An alternate use of the word is as it pertains to beer. The Cicerone
Certification Program, run by Ray Daniels, offers professional
credentials for those who sell and serve beer. The second- and
third-level certifications offered are Certified Cicerone and Master
Cicerone, respectively."
Here's (most of) Hillside's turgid e-mail; the pork fat frosting is at
the bottom:
...It is in this spirit that Chris Cohen, Certified Cicerone, and
Bernal Heights' Hillside Supper Club, are joining forces to bring you
the Harvest Moon Beer Dinner on Sept 19th.
Come celebrate the harvest with fresh-from-the-farmer's-market
creations by Tony Ferrari and Jonathan Sutton, the chef-owners of the
Hillside Supper Club, beautifully paired with fine and rare ales
selected by Certified Cicerone Chris Cohen. The meal consists of an
amuse bouche and four courses, each with its own beer pairing. The
beer includes selections from Sante Adairius Rustic Ales in Capitola,
Almanac Beer Company and Anchor Brewing of San Francisco, and
Craftsman Brewing Company out of Pasadena.
Amuse Bouche: Bourboned pluots & lardo on a rye crostini
Paired with the first release of Cask 200 by Sante Adairius Rustic
Ales out of Capitola, CA. Cask 200 is a barrel aged saison that has a
dry body, an earthy woodiness, and a gorgeous funky, fruity, acidic
citrus character. This ultra-rare brew is a solera-style farmhouse
saison taken from a 660 gallon foudre (a high capacity barrel) that
previously held wine. About 30 cases of this beer were released at the
Sante Adairius tasting room in August 2013, the bottles being poured
for this dinner are some of the only ones to make it to San Francisco.
In the future, each time Sante Adairius packages a small portion of
the contents of the foudre, fresh beer will be added back to the
beer's namesake, the Cask 200 foudre, to mix and re-ferment with the
aged beer still inside. This is a rare opportunity to sample the first
bottling of this excellent beer!
First Course: Bitter Chicory Salad with malt creme fraiche, crispy
sumac shallots, & shaved apples
Paired with Sumac Summer, made by Craftsman Brewing in Pasadena, CA in
collaboration with local Certified Cicerone Sayre Piotrkowski. This is
a light bodied 4.5% abv beer made with 60% wheat malt. The wheat aroma
and flavors complement the fruity esters created in the beer by the
Belgian yeast and tart Sumac. The beer is hopped post-boil with Mt.
Hood, an American grown hop with a spicy earthy character. After
primary fermentation the beer is transferred to a large oak fermenter
where it is aged for two months with native Brettanomyces yeast, which
makes the beer slightly more tart and emboldens the the fruit
character in the armoa.
Second Course: Confit chicken cannelloni with house cured bacon, wild
mushroom, cheddar moray, & fine herbs
Paired with BigLeaf Maple Autumn Red by Anchor Brewing. We chose this
beer not only because it is a wonderful autumnal option, but also to
make the point that a great pairing need not include a very rare or
expensive beer! This new seasonal Anchor release is a well-balanced 6%
abv amber ale with a malty caramel complexity, dense red fruit
character, and a hint of maple. Three additions of Nelson Sauvin hops
during the brew and a dry hopping schedule of Nelson Sauvin, Citra,
and Cascade give the beer big fruit character in its nose and flavor.
The amber caramel malt character in the beer pairs perfectly with the
confit chicken and house cured bacon, while the fruity hop character
matches up with the cheddar moray and herbs in the dish.
Third Course: Braised short rib of beef with squash purée, baby
turnips, cippoline onion, & pumpkin seeds
Paired with Almanac Brewing Company's Heirloom Pumpkin Barleywine.
This limited release seasonal brew clocks in at a throat warming 12%
abv and features gorgeous autumnal flavors and aromas of caramelized
squash, toasty oak, warm vanilla, vinous brandy, and the perfect
amount of pumpkin pie spice. Like all of Almanac's recent special
releases, this beer sold out instantly from the distributor's
warehouses and has enjoyed well-earned raves from beer lovers and
critics. The rich flavors of the caramelized squash and pumpkin pie
complement the rich caramelized short rib, while the barleywine's
spicy alcohol and low carbonation scrubs the palate and prepares you
for your next bite!
Dessert Course: Tcho chocolate cake with smoked cream, pork fat
frosting, candied pecan
Paired with Sante Adairius Rustic Ale's Vanilla Joe. This beer
features intense espresso roastiness, warm vanilla tones, and dense
cocoa flavors wrapped up in a rich creamy body. To create Vanilla Joe,
brewer Tim Clifford at Sante Adairius puts five gallons of his Chavez
porter into a keg with three vanilla beans and four ounces of Verve
coffee. The next morning he has five fresh gallons of his famous
Vanilla Joe! The chocolate, espresso, and vanilla character of this
beer is beautifully embraced by the dense TCHO chocolate cake, while
the slight astringency of the roasty malt counters the cake's
richness. You have to try the smoked cream and pork fat frosting to
believe it!