On 2011-12-06 21:24:16 -0800, Steve Pope said:
>
> A man who onced worked in a Dinty Moore stew cannery in the Central
> Valley told me that the stew was produced using large cans of
> stew meat from Argentina. I can't remember the exact details
> but the mental image I retained from the conversation was of a canning
> line in which a line of 10-pounds cans of Argentine meat went in
> one end, a large hopper of other ingredients was positioned overhead,
> and a line of cans of Dinty Moore stew came out the other end.
> Assuming things were humming along normally, which they didn't always.
>
> This is not to imply anything about whether the meat was "gnarsty".
> Actually I don't know for sure if any part of the story is true.
> (I have sometimes bought fresh Argentine beef in the grocery stores,
> and found it a little lacking, about the same level as Safeway
> "good" beef.)
And we enlightened foodies (including myself is a bit of humor) now
appreciate the "use the whole animal" sensibility. "Snout to tail" is
only one part of it, offal is another, and finding ways to make the
less choice parts of an animal into tasty dishes is probably the most
important part.
So, stews, soups, meatloaf, etc. are all part of the overall picture.
The big chunks of beef in Dinty Moore are not nasty-tasting, just kind
of "soft and mealy." Which comes from their long, slow cooking to break
down the collagens, etc. (Cue Alton Brown.)
What I found is that the bland taste was rectified just by dumping in
some MSG. Something that used to be common in the U.S., is still common
in many parts of the world.
I'd love to be able to track down some history of when the
makers--Armour, Libby, Hormel, whichever--decided to yield to the
drumbeat of the "No MSG!" crowd and remove a lot of the MSG.
Other heavy users of MSG, like the addicting Doritos chips, have not
yet removed their MSG. Though they hide the issue with a list of
ingredients that screams out "MSG!"
As all umami fans here know about, various other names in the
ingredients list signal the appearance of glutamic acid even if the
label says that no MSG was specifically added. Names like "hydrolized
vegetable" and any mention of soy sauce, fish sauced, Worcestershire
sauce, dried mushrooms, and a dozen other such names means a variant of
umami was added. Many of the pan reductions of sauces and "bottom bits"
are essentially concentrating the glutamates. I have a book called
"Umami." I bought a few of them on the remainder table to give out to
my friends. The authors talk about all of this, but then claim that the
pure crystal form of glutamic acid, MSG in the form of Aji-No-Moto or
Accent, is "not as good as" the more nuanced varieties in nori,
poricini mushrooms, a well-seared steak, certain bread crusts, certain
beers, etc. Yeah, I can believe the MSG in these things is then
mixed-in with other variants of the molecule, other subtle tastes, etc.
But the issue is that should one eat a $1.50 can of Dinty Moore with no
MSG or with the addition of some crystalline MSG, not whether one
should throw in $4 worth of dried porcini mushrooms or $2 worth of
grated parmesano reggiano, a source of MSG that is so strong that
crystals of MSG appear in the cheese. Go check it out. A big reason
it's so popular in soups and salads and sprinkled on vegetables is that
it's essentially MSG carried in a cheese.
--
Tim May