Review of EVVIA estiatorio-new Greek restaurant
Marilee Marshall
so I'll fill you in on a new restaurant in Palo Alto. I've noticed
EVVIA for a couple of weeks on my weekly visit to Jing-Jing's for
Dan-Dan Mein. Appeared upsale and popular from the start. Today we
went for lunch.
Viewing the menu posted next to the front door didn't grab my
attention with a surge of mouth-water excitement. The Hellenic
cuisine featured Mezenthes (think these are appetizers) that ranged
from Feta and Olives sprinkled with herbs and olive oil at $3.95 to
Mithia-mussels baked with fresh fava beans in ouzo sauce at $7.95.
The Arni omo grabbed my attention - raw lamb served with artichokes,
graviera and capers @ $4.75.
Bean soup was $4.50, and a mixed green salad with vinaigrette was
$4.95. Horiatiki- was a tomatoe, cucumber, radish, red onion, and
feta salad was $7.50.
My partner selected Kota pita - flatbread with chicken and bell
peppers, tomatoes and feta for $8.95. It was roughly equivalent to
a dieter's thin-crust pizza. He thought it was okay, but certainly
didn't merit the price.
I elected to try the Kapama - a thick spaghetti pasta with ground
lamb ragout. It was described as including mint, but I guess the
basil is close enough at $10.50. The pasta was chewy, and the lamb
sauce looked like a pale Italian meat sauce without the compexity of
flavors and seasoning. In fact, the aftertaste was distinctly
mutton. I did not enjoy it, and was frankly glad I didn't have to
pay the heavy price (IMHOP).
In the meat/poultry menu there was an offering of roasted chicken,
or pork tenderloin and Cretan rice, or grilled salmon, a Moussaka,
or lamb chops with Cretan fries from $11.95 - 16.95.
The dessert of the day was baklava. It is a specialty of mine, and
I was eager to be pleased after the unsatisfactory entree. I was
doomed however. Avvia's baklava presentation was pretty, though
typical of upscale desserts with a showy purse of filo dough dusted
with powdered sugar and set in a puddle of creme anglaise. The
filling was nondescript with soggy walnuts and what more resembled
mincemeat with dried fruit and nuts. Price was not quoted, but by
the size of the bill, it must have been expensive.
The atmosphere was nice, with fold-back front doors that open to
give a sidewalk cafe feel. The decorating was tasteful and
non-ostentatious; warm and congenial. Service was adequate.
All in all, I think the restaurant is a nice place to visit once,
but I wouldn't recommend it for the food. It was pricey, and
didn't substantiate the level of cuisine. Again...IMHOP.
If given the option between the $40 lunch at EVVIA, or Jing-Jing
$3.95 Dan-Dan Mein, I wouldn't hesitate a minute..... it's
Jing-Jings. Well..... let me amend that; it might depend on who's
buying.
Off-University Avenue dining is really going upscale, but that
doesn't necessarily mean the cooking as THAT good. If asked where I
want to dine, I'll stick with Flea St., or Carpaccio, or even
Highashi West (?).
marilee
at stanford