aus.motorcycles FAQ, part 1 of 3 [monthly post]
Cameron Simpson
URL: http://www.zip.com.au/~cs/moto/aus.moto/FAQ/
Maintainer: Cameron Simpson <c...@zip.com.au>
Posting-frequency: monthly
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(Living on the WWW at) \| |/
"http://www.zip.com.au/~cs/moto/aus.moto/FAQ/" |_|
Overview
~~~~~~~~
The Aus.Motorcycles FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) comes in three parts.
Part One contains introductory material for learners or new bike buyers.
Part Two contains specific information about Australian touring, maintenaince,
bike hire, gear, etc...
Part Three covers the safety and everything else of clothing & gear.
1. 1.1 Welcome to Aus.Motorcycles
Aus.Motorcycles (a.m) is a forum for discussion (haha) of Australian
motorcycles and motorcycling. This FAQ was put together by lots of regular
posters to a.m not only to answer the FAQs but also give people an idea of how
to begin _and_ enjoy motorcycling around the entire country. It is hopefully a
starting point for beginners and a useful reference to ol' timers :-)
Need some info you can't find in here?... Let the posting begin!
2. 1.2 What kind of bike should I buy?
Compiled by Zebee Johnstone <ze...@zip.com.au>.
Bikes come in 4 main types:
cruiser (harley clone)
good for small people - low seat height
good commuter - upright riding position
OK for luggage, although heavy loads can be awkward, too far back and high
up.
OK for light pillions, but again, too far back and high up.
sports
Ok for most folks, may be too high seat for small people, too cramped for
tall ones.
Ok to poor commuter. often too peaky, hard in slow traffic and riding
postion too radical for town work.
Usually poor for pillions, seat too small, pegs too high, weight too high
up.
Usually poor for luggage, no attachment points
Good for freeway riding.
Good for recreational riding (ie fanging)
standard
Good commuter/tourer but can be slow to accelerate
often overweight/underpowered.
Good for luggage
Good for pillions
OK for freeway
Poor for sporty riding, too slow.
Few made now - usually mid-80s bikes.
dirt or road/trail
Good for tall people, short people can't touch the ground good commuter -
upright position plus good accelleration poor on freeways, often not fast
enough
OK for luggage
Ok for pillions, although can compress the suspension too much brakes and
lights may not be up to road bike standard knobby tyres poor on bitumen.
Which you choose depends on your type of riding. Plus, not all bikes are the
same - a ZZR250 is a sports bike, but is more friendly to pillions and luggage
than an RGV250 would be.
Go to all the dealers you can, and sit on the bikes. See what fits you and
which ones you like.
You need to ask yourself these questions:
o Kind of riding.
Lots of city riding? traffic jams etc? Lots of freeway riding? Want to
spend time playing in curving roads? Are there bush trails near you?
Are you unusually tall or short? How heavy are you?
o Pillions and luggage
Will you need to carry a lot of gear? shopping? lots of books? More
than you can comfortably get in a backpack? How about another person?
Is this other person tall? Heavy?
o maintenance
Do you want to work on it yourself? How much can you afford to spend on
servicing? Some bikes are much easier to work on than others - a single
cyl 4 stroke cruiser like an SR250 is a doddle. A 4cyl sports bike like
a GS250FW is much harder.
o money and future plans
How long will you be keeping it? Do you plan to buy a 250 to learn on,
and upgrade as soon as you get your unrestricted license?
Many riders will drop the bike in the first year. Do you want to buy an
expensive faired bike now, or wait till your skill improves?
Do you want insurance? Comprehensive? Have you factored in your riding
gear? Helmet? Boots? Gloves? Jacket? Wet weather gear?
Once you have sorted out your needs, you can then peruse the 250cc list for
likely candidates, and cross check with your local paper for likely price and
availability. The monthly bike trading magazine Just Bikes is also a good
resource for pricing and model identification.
You should also try and locate the beginner's magazines that Two Wheels puts
out from time to time. They usually have good advice on how to buy a second
hand bike, models, riding gear etc.
3. 1.3 Which bike? - Bikes for Learners.
compiled by Miles Gillham <m.gi...@ieee.org>.
Maintained on the web by John Lamp <John...@deakin.edu.au>.
The version recited here is 3.0j. I update it when someone prods me.
The live version is on the web at:
Bikes For Learners
http://lamp.man.deakin.edu.au/learner_bikes/
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1. Bikes for Learners.
This list defaults to Australian bikes, models, and prices except where noted
otherwise.
Compiled by Miles Gillham - m.gi...@ieee.org
Massaged into the Web by John Lamp - John...@deakin.edu.au
The presence of an icon indicates that an image is available for viewing by
clicking on the icon.
If you have an update for the list, email it to Miles Gillham.
If you have an image for the list, email it to John Lamp.
A list of motorcycles for beginner's who are interested in buying their first
motorcycle. Originally intended only for the 250cc class which is the ceiling
in Australia for a restricted license. Now open to all bikes worldwide that a
beginner could be interested in.
You can use this list in one of two ways. Firstly, you could use it as a
reference lookup when going through advertisements to find out what each bike
is all about. The other way to use this list is to read through it and pick
the bikes that are most attuned to your interests and lifestyle and then hunt
for them in your local region.
1.0.1 Other sites of interest:
o Motorcycle Online
o Netbikes (Motorcycle Classifieds)
______________________________________________________________________________
1.1 Mito 125 Cagiva
2-stroke. Almost as fast as a 250cc for a learner and glamorous. 7 speed Just
as exciting as an RGV and a lot more desirable in States that place
restrictions on models of 250cc. Racy. 34hp@10,500RPM ~100mph 116kg
1.2 BR250 Kawasaki
Watercooled, no fairing, reliable, Single cylinder, small, very light to ride.
Good fun in dirt for a small road bike. Sometimes has starting problems. Nice
note. Can get small bikini fairing not dissimilar to SRX250. Equiv to a
CBX250. 22-25kW, 24.5Nm (approx) 125kg (118kg dry), 25km/L, 140-155km/hr. Need
to work it from 7k to 11k RPM for optimum power. Similar engine bits to the
KLR250.
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.3 CA250TS Honda
The "Rebel". Harley/Cruiser style twin cylinder. 4 stroke 4 valve SOHC air
cooled. 5 speed. Disc front, drum rear brakes.
1.4 CB160 Honda
???
1.5 C50 Honda
The "Cub". Too small for the big city, you'll have a lot of trouble learning
anything useful. Baby brother to CT family.
1.6 CB TWO FIFTY Honda
Latest version of the 250 parallel twin. basic, boring, economical, excellent
commuter, good deal if you buy new and plan to trade up after a year.
1.7 CB250 T/N/R Honda
Unexciting, asic tourer. Reliable but old. Large and sluggish. Good for tall,
light people who don't want to go fast but want a big mount. The CB250N is
very solid.
1.8 CB250RS Honda
Precessor to the CBX, just as powerful. Older but small, light, quick, nice.
21Kw, 130kg, 24km/L, 150km/hr $1000-$1500
1.9 CBR250 Honda
Expensive, maybe not imported into Oz Hot equivalent to GSXR250. Can get
"Aero" (fast) & "Hurricane" (really fast and go to 18500RPM).
1.10 CBR250RR Honda
available in NZ. The official (not grey) import will be available in Australia
during 1996 for RRP $A9,990 (so don't bother buying second hand for $9k)
1.11 CBX250 Honda
4-stroke, single cylinder ~$1500-~$1800 Reasonable. Successor to CB250RS.
Small fairing. Smaller bike. 22kW, 120kg, 25km/L, 160km/hr
1.12 CD250 Honda
Fun, cheap, slow, low power, consistent good beginner bike. Not pretty. 15kW,
140kg $2000-$3000
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.13 CD250U Honda
Fun, cheap, slow, low power, good beginner bike. Parallel twin.
1.14 CM250 Honda
4-stroke "custom" style along the lines of GN250 & SR250, $1200-$1500
1.15 CMX250 Honda
Equivalent in many ways to an EL250. Looks a bit Harley-ish, given the
constraints of size. $1000-$1300
1.16 CR250 Honda
1.17 CT90 Honda
See description for CT110.
1.18 CT110 Honda
The "Posty"! They _are_ actually the most popular (in terms of numbers
produced) of any model of motorcycle, but traffic conditions in Australia
don't really suit them. Perhaps, as local transport in a quieter "country"
town, they may be considered a good thing...beats walking! ;-). ..but in fast
traffic, they are well out of place. This family of bikes do provide
interesting transport options in certain circumstances. For more info:
http://www.ar.com.au/~crazycam/ and follow the links to Bluey, for more
technical specs of this family.
1.19 CT200
???
1.20 CX125 Gilera
2-stroke, 6 speed, single front fork, very cute looking race bike along the
same vein as the Mito. Sporty.
1.21 CZ250 CZ
2 stroke twin made in Czechoslovakia. mid-70s and parts are hard. Good for the
classic clubs. 15kW, 140kg, 135 km/hr $300-$600
1.22 DR200
???
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.23 DR250S Suzuki
16kW, 115kg, 22km/L, 135km/hr. Proven commuter/fun bike. $650-$2700
1.24 DT250 Yamaha
Can use it on the farm.
1.25 EL250 Kawasaki
Pretty little cruiser. Low seat and centre of gravity (chopper style). 20kW,
140kg, 21km/L, 140kg
1.26 ER250 Kawasaki
Uni-trak, belt-drive Z250. 22kW, 145kg, 19km/L, 155km/hr, $850
1.27 ES250
???
1.28 ETZ250 MZ
15kW, 135kg, 25km/L, 130km/hr. Dependable, solid, and exciting as a brick.
$800-$1300
1.29 EX250R Kawasaki
"
Ninja, 4-stroke
1.30 FZ250 Yamaha
Mid 80's 4 cyl. 4-stroke. Apparently the first 250 4-stroke to get over 50 hp.
Known as the "Phazer". Imported. Predecessor to FZR, equiv to Suzuki GF250
1.31 FZR250 Yamaha
Hot! Think of a FZR400 scaled down. Japanese market model imported. Quick
(~180kmh) and better than GSXR250.
1.32 GF250 Suzuki
Suzuki's second attempt at a 4cyl 250. If you keep it in the powerband (8000-
13000) it fairly hoots. Delivers as much power as the much later ZZR250, but
without the curvaceous fairing is probably only good for 155-160km/hr. Nice
little bike, really fast steering, good brakes. Resale value may not be high,
depending upon condition so don't pay too much for one. watercooled, similar
style to the FZ250. 33kW, 155kg 19km/L, 165km/hr. $1800-$2400
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.33 GN250 Suzuki
Like the XV250 but single cylinder (not powerful!). Simple design therefore
easy maintenance and more reliability. Harley wannabe (chopper style). Not as
good as the SR250 but still good. 16kW, 129kg, 25km/L, 145km/hr $650-2700
1.34 GPX250 Kawasaki
"
RECOMMENDED, air-cooled aim for 25000km. GPX, ZZR, GPZ250R all use variants of
a water cooled DOHC 16 valve parallel twin. 28kW/40HP, 140kg, 18km/L,
160km/hr. Chassis, styling, like the bigger GPX. Tough but watch out for
thrashed engines. Cinder-switch is occasionally burnt out so check it when
buying. Wind shears prone. Black with red striping, or black with purple and
cyan (maybe).
1.35 GPz250 Kawasaki
"
Not very strong but ok. Belt drive. Early models had dicky camchain tensioners
(maybe not all of them). Suffers from being thrashed. Air cooled SOHC parallel
twin, bikini fairing. Direct descendant of the venerable Z250 engine. 24kW,
145kg, 18km/L, 155km/hr. $1200-$1800
1.36 GPZ250R Kawasaki
Newer, water-cooled, sporty, red seat comes off on clothes. Frame, engine as
per GPX250 but more power (noiser). Handles well, no fairing. Cheaper
alternative to GPX250 GPX, ZZR, GPZ250R all use variants of a water cooled
DOHC 8 valve parallel twin. Chain drive.
1.37 GS250FW Suzuki
Suzuki's first attempt at a 4cyl 250, redline at 11500, very few around, and
hence not many parts to be found at the wreckers. Good performance for the
time but with pronounced powerband. The engine is essentially the same from
GS250FW to GF250 to GSX250F with about 8 years extra development to the
Across. Fuel economy not great.
1.38 GSX250F Suzuki
"Across". 4 cyl, 4-stroke. Power range in 11500 to 14500 RPM. Similar to the
GSXR250 which runs out of puff at 185km/hr. Complex motor and therefore higher
servicing on the F model at least. No centre stand. Dry weight 163kg, which
helps for longer distances but arguably a comfortable bike. Sporty feet
position. Small 12 litre tank, but great helmet compartment (put your Macca's
or KFC in the via drive through).
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.39 GSX250 Suzuki
Early 80's commuter. Just like the GSX400 air cooled twin, sleeved down so
heavy for the size. Nice, honest bike for the commuter and big person, not
real zippy. Some had electrical problems. Pay anywhere from $700 up to $3800.
1.40 GSXR250 Suzuki
"
Tops at 180km/hr (maybe 200km/hr brand new) Lasts well. No dead spots in the
rev range right up to the red line. Gentle and holds a nice cornering line a
lot more steady & predictable than the RGV, but otherwise the RGV corners
better. Front end is light so cornering is a bitch in the wet when you hit a
bump, line, line marker etc. 4-cyl, 4-stroke. 16 valve 2*twin barrel carb
DOHC. Some have SPES (Suzuki Powerup Exhaust System) a go-fast bit which has a
slight edge. Redline @ 17,000RPM Looks like a GSXR750 but smaller, similar to
an Across in engine/frame. available in NZ
1.41 GSXR250RR Suzuki
Jap import race replica. Has a different frame, different carbs, and looks
like even different engine angle. The whole shape of the bike is a lot more
angular, like GSXR750 meets RGV. May not go a lot better than the GSXR250.
1.42 KLR250 Kawasaki
"
Answer to the Honda XL.
1.43 KLX250 Kawasaki
"
Only seen 1983. Was dual rear shock. All plastic tank etc.
1.44 KR1 Kawasaki
Standard 2-stroke, parallel twin watercooled pocket rocket. *The* bike before
the RGV. Exhaust port power valve (KIPS). 60hp (45kW), 200km/hr, 16km/L 123kg,
$4000-$5500
1.45 KR1-S Kawasaki
"
45kW, 131kg, 13km/L, 205km/hr, $5300-$6000
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.46 KR250 Kawasaki
predecessor of KR1/S. The engine design is close to the racing KR which ran at
late 1970s. It has a unique mixture of rotary valve and reed valve for
induction. Notable as a production bike that uses tandem (Front-Rear) cylinder
placement. It has twin crankshaft, and a strange combination of 16in fr. wheel
and 18in rear wheel. It does not have power valve so torque&power is a bit low
compare to new comer (ie, RGV). 2-stroke. 40kW, 123kg, 14km/L, 185km/hr
1.47 MVX250 Honda
V3 2-stroke. Slightly earlier than the NS250. Environmental disaster. Not
related to NS400R (also V3 stroke). Performance would suit a learner nicely.
Maintenance requirements would NOT suit a learner at all. Badly designed
engine is prone to shredding the inside of the middle cylinder. 25kW, 130kg,
20km/L, 170km/hr
1.48 MZ250 Motorrad Zschopau
East German, 1-cylinder, 2-stroke. Ugly but nippy in town. Good tourer,
commuter, basic transport, low maintenance. Good motor. Models are ETZ250 (12
volt, disk brake) and the TS250 (6 volt, drum). Most MZs you see will be ETZ.
120kmh tops. Motorrad Zschopau now reborn as MuZ and making those truly
scrumptious Yam engined Scorpion singles.
1.49 NS250R Honda
(not to be confused with NSR250!!) 2-stroke 90 degree V-twin, contemporary of
RG250. Can be thrashed to death quite easily. Strange looking fairing on some.
All had exhausts faired into seat hump. About $1500- $2000NZ for a good one.
1.50 NSR250 Honda
Proddy racer bike. RGV-beater, imported in small quantities. Check for
lockwiring! 90-degree V-Twin
1.51 RD250A Yamaha
Generally reliable aircooled 2-stroke. First proddy bike to use reed valve
induction. Mostly unchanged except for cosmetics and brakes till till the last
of the line RD250G in 1981. A bit agricultural, but pretty reliable, cheap to
work on, spares available. Very 70s handling, this is no RGV guys!
1.52 RD250LC Yamaha
Watercooled. The "elsie" was *the* pocket rocket. Have been thrashed without
exception. Also likely crashed... But still Ok if they go, but be prepared to
do a top end, bottom ends OK as long as it wasn't seized. The earlier RDs
didn't have the YPVS (Yamaha Power Valve System), meaning bugger all below
7000rpm and everything above (which can cause exciting things to happen if you
wind open the throttle suddenly!)
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.53 RD250LC Yamaha
Watercooled version of RD250.
1.54 RG250 Suzuki
2-stroke parallel twin. Predecessor of the RGV, competes with the RZ250.
RECOMMENDED
1.55 RG250WD 'Gamma' Suzuki
???
1.56 RGV250, K, L, M, N,
P, R, S, Lucky Strike Suzuki"
2-stroke. Powerful, good looking, average to lousy tourer (you're in the race
position). Tight rear end. Early ones, especially K & L models have engine
cradle and engine mountings are prone to cracking. This can cost up to $500 to
fix. RGV-P = 61hp@11,000RPM (top ~130mph)
1.57 RM250 Suzuki
1.58 RMX250 Suzuki
A full blown enduro motorcycle. One of the few sold in America that actually
meets EPA Noise requirements. Early models came with all kinds of detuning
modifications to meet the noise requirements, but with replacement noisy parts
to make it run well. Later models come with most of the quiet parts but with
less detuning, and the motor actually runs pretty well, and is an effective
enduro motor. Any competent tuner can increase power considerably by modifying
the ports and head. Suspension is soft for most riders, and requires stiffer
springs front and rear to make it handle well. Once this is sorted out, it is
an outstanding handler.
1.59 RS250 Honda
Is a 250 racer just like the TZ250, used in 250 GPs and such. Again, v.
expensive and not legal post 91/92. V twin 2-stroke available in NZ
1.60 RX-Z ???
Seen it zipping around Malaysia. Little sports bike, maybe 125cc?
1.61 RZ250 Yamaha
2-stroke parallel twin. Post RD250LC. Not as wild as the RGV. First powervalve
model. Fairing. Prospective buyers might like to make certain that they're
buying a 250; a favourite trick with the RZ is to upgrade the 250 barrels,
pistons and conrods to those from an RZ 350; you can tell by the size stamped
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
on the side of the barrels (left, just above the crankcase). The warning is
this: it's also important to uprate the oil pump, since a 250 oil pump has a
lower capacity than a 350 pump, so engine wear may be accelerated. The exhaust
systems are also different, and you won't get optimum power from an uprated
250 without fitting 350 exhausts as well.
1.62 SDR200 Yamaha
2-stroke, basically a single seater 200cc motorcycle with a single speedometer
displayed in km. The motorcycle is extremely fast for its class and it has a
chromed tubular frame like the Ducati monster. It seems that this bike is
available in Japan only. kickstarter, with apparently 4 speeds ... very
wheelie prone. It is a two-stroke, but the exhaust system on the unit is very
well designed and reduces a lot of the noise that most 2's give out. Strange
thing about the bike is the surprising amount of torque that it actually has.
1.63 Sherpa T Bultaco
This was (is?) a strange dual purpose cross between road and trials (as
opposed to trail) use. Low revving piston port 250cc single cylinder 2-stroke,
low seat height, and speedo mounted on the fork leg(!). Also famous Bultaco
reliability (pass that 6-pack of pistons). Almost entirely useless for the
road.
1.64 SR250 Yamaha
Mini-chopper. 4-stroke. Easy to get parts and holds value. Getting older now,
but a good one is still fine if it hasn't been neglected.
1.65 SRV250 Yamaha
1.66 SRX250 Yamaha
Recommended. Medium fairing. Similar to the BR250 and CBX250 in many ways.
Single cylinder. Light but not a lot of power. Good around town or on really
twisty roads. Great learner machine. Easy to work on and maintain. Not so
powerful if taking pillion. Around $2,500. They would rev out, off the speedo
at 170 km/h.
1.67 TDR250 Yamaha
Road bike semi styled like a off-road bike, a similar concept to TDM850, but 5
years earlier, post 87. Used TZR250 motor, had a fairing a bit like the top
half of a TZR. Lotsa parts interchangeable eg wheels, swingarm etc.
Performance Bikes once described it as the "Best hooligan bike ever
made"...wheelie city
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.68 TGV200 Suzuki
RGV style frame with bored out 125 motocross motor, faster than 250cc 4
strokes, unfaired about $6000NZ for a new one. [allowed in because it can
outperform some 250cc bikes :-]
1.69 TS250X Suzuki
Really cool bike. 2-stroke, water cooled 5 speed with yellow plastics and blue
frame. It is great off road but can also ride it to work every day. Good
learner's choice. Not a very common bike but well worth a ride.
1.70 TT250 Yamaha
Similar to XR ie Enduro
1.71 TW200 Yamaha
2-valve electric start.
1.72 TY250 Yamaha
A full-on trials bike. Forget it unless you're into riding over boulders and
up walls.
1.73 TZ250 Yamaha
V-Twin 2 stroke Proddy racer, post 91/92, very limited production, probably
not street legal
1.74 TZM Yamaha
Seen it whipping around Malaysia. 125cc probably, and very zippy for the
kamikaze pilots there.
1.75 TZR250 Yamaha
Post RZ250. Faired and unfaired models. 2-stroke, parallel twin street bike,
japanese imports (e.g banana arm, USD forks) Also has aluminium Deltabox
frame, as opposed to steel tube cradles on RD/RZ250s
1.76 V25 Custom Honda
Harley/Cruiser style V-twin. 4 stroke 8 valve DOHC liquid cooled. 5 speed.
Disc front, drum rear brakes. Looks meaner than the Rebel.
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.77 VT250F Honda
First came out in 1983. DOHC, 8-valve 90 degree V-twin four-stroke. Pro-link
rear suspension, but drum brake, and problematic "inboard" disc on front.
Engine had crankshaft and timing chain problems. Be wary of the older VT's.
Check them out thoroughly.
1.78 VT250FIID Honda
Crankshaft fixed. Full-fairing. Sexy but subjectively ugly paint job.
160...@12.5krpm
1.79 VT250FIIF Honda
"Integra". Double-row timing chain (still noisy but mechanically sound). New
frame & fairing. 14lt tank (280km). TRAC anti-dive and twin rotors up front.
Comstar wheels. Has about 40HP, revs to 13,500, which equals 170kmh.
1.80 VT250FIIJ Honda
Timing chain completely fixed. Smaller fairing, but a nice, good looking bike.
1.81 VT250L Honda
"Spada". No fairing, modern frame, more power, more appeal, more money. A
company in NSW makes aftermarket fairings (~1$k) bearing "VTr" insignia, which
makes them look like a VFR or Ducati. Replaced the VT250 FII Integra, mid-
seating (between touring and racing position). Good bottom power range and
peaks at 140-165kmh. Responsive. 180-200km/tank. ~$4000-~$5000
1.82 VTR250 Honda
See entry for VT250L
1.83 XL185S Honda
See XL250R.
1.84 XL250R Honda
Road/Trail. Good for the odd scrub dash. monoshock, roadgoing XR. 1983 had
250S motor, later had RFVC motor which came standard with crack between spark
plug and exhaust valve. Honda used smaller spark plug in 1986 on to reduce
problem. Same story for XR250.
1.85 XL250S Honda
Super Reliable 4-stroke single.
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.86 XLX250 Honda
4-stroke SOHC. Looks like an XL250 but uses XR350 engine manual. Well built,
easily replaceable parts (except for the engine which is more difficult to
find) Need both XL250 and XR350 manuals to service it. Big looking. Check in
the brake hub for speedo-drive nylon - expensive to replace. Avoid one with
Bottom end damage - hard to get aftermarket parts. Remove spark plug - if
thread burred head will need to be rebored or replaced. Will require regular
maintance (ie. oil change after long ride due to engine repair costs) Damaged
pay: $450 - $1800 Road Worthy pay: $1200 - $2500
1.87 XR185 Honda
See XR250
1.88 XR200 Honda
See XR250
1.89 XR200R Honda
See XR250
1.90 XR250 Honda
The more "serious" Honda road/trail. More of a dirtbike. See XLR250
1.91 XS250 Yamaha
4-stroke, sluggish, slow, cheap. Upright chopper-style. Parallel twin, air-
cooled. They may be sluggish, but they're damned reliable. Kickstart and
electric start fitted as standard. Front & rear solid disc brakes. Wide,
comfy seat.
1.92 XT225 Yamaha
See XT250
1.93 XT250 Yamaha
2-valve. Basically the same bike from 1980 to 1991 Front drum, base model etc.
4-valve variant. XL equivalent.
1.94 XV250 Yamaha
Virago. Looks like a bigger bike (eg Harley). Expensive. 4-stroke, V-twin,
good torque, fun, watch the pegs on the turns.
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.95 Z250 Kawasaki
"Scorpion". older twin, 4-stroke commuter. Light but not high performance.
Basic, cheap. No fairing. Belt drive. Apparently there are some variants:
single cylinder, a twin, a belt-drive, and a chain drive. The "Scorpion"
*may* have been a one-off model. The variant of belt-drive twin, without the
fairing and the GPZ paintwork (basically a GPZ!) is common. $550-$800
1.96 Z250B Kawasaki
1.97 ZXR250 Kawasaki
4-stroke inline 4. Rare, imported. Faster than GSXR250. Can be set up as racer
(no mirrors, rep fairing) or as road bike (like a smaller ZXR400). Push it
harder than 20500RPM and you'll see the pistons. available in NZ
1.98 ZZR250 Kawasaki
Very sexy and popular. Good tourer. A bit underpowered. Wiggly rear end on
some models. GPX, ZZR, GPZ250R all use variants of a water cooled DOHC 8 valve
parallel twin. Redlines at 14500RPM. 35hp / 27kW, 146kg, 20km/L, 170km/hr
$4500-$6700 (anything up to $8100) Better fairing rain protection than GPX250.
three colour schemes: purple/silver, blue/silver, red. Sportier riding
position than the GPX250.
1.99 Misc
BSA C12
BSA c15
Royal Enfield Crusader
Ariel Colt
AJS Stormer
Triumph Terrier
Bultaco Alpina
Montesa Cota
1.100 Notes
What's out there? Well, expect five classes:
race replica / sports
love that race crouch
cruiser
mini-harley, like the Virago
standard
your regular upright motorcycle, use it for commuting or for just fun
trail and road/trail
yeehah!
commuter
you know, mopeds and such
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
For commuting in general, avoid 2-strokes or high redlines. These will not
have the even torque and power needed. They're more for racing about, not
stop/start.
Do the bike courses that are out there, you don't even know what you don't
know! Insurance vendors often give discounts if you've been on courses.
Expect to pay between $600 - $8000, but aim for above $2000 (you get what you
pay for). Don't forget the accessory costs of helmets, boots, jackets, gloves,
wet weather gear, tank bags, etc. And insurance is worth asking about. It is
proportional to your age, the model of bike, and your driving history.
* 2-strokes seem to require regular engine rebuilds if they are to stay
reliable. Around 10k - 25k km intervals. This depends a lot on how the bike is
ridden. Give them time to warm up and keep the revs not past 5000rpm until
warm. MZs and aircooled RDs low maint. Aircooled are less stressed. Rebuilds
are not necessarily a bad or expensive thing (not much more than a 4-stroke
service) and regular services are cheaper on a 2-stroke.
* Invest in a cheap, practical, reliable, easy to ride bike. Upgrade to
unrestricted as soon as feasible and then go up to something bigger and decent
with your hard-earned cash. In S.A. better off upgrading to superior 250cc if
you don't want to take the high rego hit.
* Suzukis seem to be a problem with parts.
* Lockwiring - When a bike is raced, it must have certain parts wired closed,
so it doesn't leak oil everywhere. This usually means that things have had
holes drilled in them for the wire to pass through. Places to check are:
o Sump plug
o Oil filler cap
o Brake caliper bolts.
o Radiator cap.
If these have holes drilled through them, ask why! And if it comes with spare
fibreglass, ask why? And if it comes with heaps of used motor spares, ask why!
Mind you, race bikes have often been better maintained than race replicas. ie
they don't necessarily rev them cold to the red-line first thing in the
morning.
1.101 Specific Countries
Mexico: easy to get parts for Kawasaki bikes from Monterrey. Very hard to get
Yamaha parts, even from the USA, and especially for bikes <400cc.
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
1.102 Bigger Bikes
This list primarily targets the new bike buyer, it is *not* going to give you
the definitive "every bike in the world". If you are beyond being a learner
then you'll already know enough about selecting more advanced bikes.
As for size, I believe moving from a 250cc you want to go to something in the
400cc to 600cc (just maybe 750cc) range. Any more and you're going to kill
yourself. Get a big buzz from the increment, and then if you're still hungry
for more move up to the real big boys in the 750cc to 1200cc range. The type
of bike makes a lot of difference. An FJ1200 has lots of torque and even
power, but you won't be first off at the lights. A CBR900RR has insane power
and rev and you will be first into the speedtrap...
At the end of the day riding a motorcycle is not about thinking, it's about
feeling. The above advice is definitely not right for everyone, you'll buy
whatever feels right for you.
1.103 Disclaimer
This list is produced in good faith to help people who are new to motorcycles
and are looking for an introduction to buying a motorbike. The information is
based on numerous testimonials and no responsibility is taken for inaccurate
information. If you buy something based on the information here then that's
your decision and you should do it with your eyes open. Good luck and stay
upright.
1.104 Credits
(a big thank you to everyone for making this possible)
o Simon Attwell
o Douglas Barton
o Russell Bramely
o Gareth Bull
o Phil Burg
o Richard Bushell
o Graham Byrnes
o Rich Byron
o Damian Carvolth
o Shen Chiu
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
o Charlie Clelland
o Thomas Cohen
o Andrew Colman
o Simon Conant
o Tim Cook
o Michael Cutter
o Dean Davidson
o Stephen Farrugia
o David Fitch
o Heru Hariati
o Rex Harris
o Helen Hayden
o Michael Hayes
o Mark Hill
o Peter Howard
o Suicide Jackson
o Laurence Janus
o Zebee Johnstone
o Patrick Jordan
o Mike King
o Kevin Lew
o Edwin Mak
o Tim Marsh
o Robert Masters
o Mike McGaughey
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
o Cameron Miller
o Warren Morgan
o David Moore
o Shane Mulo
o Dylan Nelson
o Colin Panisset
o Tony Payne
o Jay Perrizo
o Siegfried Pietralla
o Ben Pikl
o Adrian Pitt
o Chris Ritchard
o Blake Ryan
o Brenda Seelbach
o Cameron Simpson
o Matt Smillie
o Shaun Steel
o Alvian Tam
o Colin Terry
o Jonathon Tidswell
o Chris Tisdell
o u100...@csdvax.csd.unsw.edu.au
o Tim Villa
o Darryl Weinert
o Tom Winker
The Bike List (Version 3.0j)
et al (sorry if I've missed you)
4. 1.4 Licencing: What rules and regulations do I have to follow in my state?
[ Queensland | South Australia | Western Australia | Australian Capital
Territory | New South Wales | Tasmania | Northern Territory | Victoria ]
4.1 Queensland
Compiled by Red & Chris Martin.
[ Learners | Provisional | Open Learners | Open ]
LEARNERS PERMIT
Requirements To obtain, must answer a selection of questions from the
Queensland drivers guide. (Currently holding a car licence is
not taken into account)
Pass an eyesight test.
Be over 17 years of age.
Use Conditions During this period, you must be accompanied at all times by
either (1) A rider on another bike with at least 1 years riding
xp. or (2) A pillion with at least 2 years riding xp.
CC Limit 250cc limit (no problems with 2 strokes .... yet.)
Duration Must keep permit for six months (minimum), valid for 12 months.
BAC 0.0 BAC
Pillions No pillion passengers other than a rider with at least 2 years
riding xp.
Speed Restrict No additional.
Plates No 'L' or 'P' plates required.
Points you get 4 points
PROVISIONAL LICENCE
Requirements Road test with transport department official (approx
half an hour) to qualify for licence.
Use Conditions Nil.
CC Limit 250cc
Duration 1 year minimum duration.
BAC 0.0
Pillions None. (Not even those with 2 years riding experience).
Speed Restrict No additional.
Plates None required.
Points 4
A full, non-provisional licence will be granted at the end of a year of
holding a Provisional licence. No extra tests required.
OPEN LEARNERS
Requirements Must have held a Provisional licence for at least 1 year.
Use Conditions Must be followed around by a person with at least 1 years
experience on a bike with capacity >250cc OR 2 years
experience if pillion. (Note that this is only if you
are on your >250cc bike)
CC Limit Nil.
Duration Must hold learners permit for 6 months, Maximum Duration
12 months.
BAC ??
Pillions Only those with greater or equal to 2 years riding
experience on a large bike.
Speed Restrict No additional.
Plates Nil.
Points ????
OPEN LICENCE
Requirements Bike Test required (Slalom, Figure 8 etc.)
Use Conditions Nil.
CC Limit Nil.
Duration Nil.
BAC 0.05
Pillions Yes.
Speed Restrict No additional.
Plates Nil.
Points Nil.
4.2 South Australia
Compiled by Cameron Miller <cam...@spri.levels.unisa.edu.au>.
[ Learners | Restricted | Open ]
LEARNERS PERMIT
Requirements Pass written test on road rules (only if you don't already
have a car licence.)
Pass 2x4 hour training sessions on Motorcycle riding (rider
safety course.)
Use Conditions Nil. May ride completely unaccompanied, at any time of day.
CC Limit 250 cc.
Duration 4 - 6 months.
BAC 0.0
Pillions No, unless they hold an unrestricted licence.
Speed Restrict ???
Plates L plate attached to rear of bike.
Points 4?
RESTRICTED LICENCE
Requirements Have to pass a 4 hour rider safe course/test.
Use Conditions No conditions imposed.
CC Limit 250 cc.
Duration 1 Year.
BAC 0.0 if on P plates, 0.05 otherwise.
Pillions Ok.
Speed Restrict No Additional.
Plates P Plates required if you do not already have a full car licence.
Points 4 for P plated, 12 otherwise.
OPEN LICENCE
Requirements Must hold a restricted licence for the period of one year.
Use Conditions Nil.
CC Limit Nil.
Duration N/A.
BAC 0.05
Pillions Ok.
Speed Restrict No additional.
Plates Nil.
Points 12
4.3 Western Australia
Compiled by Matthew Carter <mjca...@tartarus.uwa.edu.au> & Chris Martin.
[ Learners | Restricted Provisional | Provisional | Open ]
LEARNERS PERMIT
Requirements Pass 30 Question multiple choice test
unless the holder of a car licence, in
which case it is a 10-question test.
Use Conditions You may only ride when accompanied by a
licenced rider with at least two years
experience - either following, or as a
pillion.
CC Limit 250cc.
Duration No Minimum duration. Valid for one year.
BAC ???
Pillions ???
Speed Restrict 72 Km/h maximum.
Plates ???
Points ???
RESTRICTED PROVISIONAL
Requirements For those who have not held a car/other
vehicle licence for more than 2 years, A
simple riding test needs to be completed.
Use Conditions No need for experienced rider accompanyment???
CC Limit 250cc.
Duration No Minimum duration. Valid for one year.
BAC ???
Pillions ???
Speed Restrict 72 Km/h maximum.
Plates ???
Points ???
PROVISIONAL LICENCE (L class)
Requirements If you have held a licence
of some form for over 2
years, a simple driving
test will gain you a class
Use Conditions Nil???
CC Limit 250cc.
Duration 1 year minimum duration.
BAC 0.05
Pillions Ok.
Speed Restrict No Additional.
Plates ???
Points 12
OPEN LICENCE (K class)
Requirements Riding test for large
capacity bikes.
Must have held a
Provisional licence for at
least 1 year.
Use Conditions Nil.
CC Limit 250cc.
Duration 1 year minimum duration.
BAC 0.05
Pillions Ok.
Speed Restrict No Additional.
Plates ???
Points 12
4.4 Australian Capital Territory
Compiled by Neal Gowen <go...@rsbs.anu.edu.au> & Dean Kaufman.
[ Learners Licence | Provisional Licence ]
LEARNERS LICENCE
Requirements Minimum Age - 16yrs 9 months
Current ACT car L, P or full licence to book
Must pass 10 hours competency-based course with Stay
Upright Motorcycle Techniques pre-learner course. Cost
$150
Book course through Stay Upright on (02) 61423963.
Use Conditions Nil
CC Limit Nil (but changes to law expected in late 1998)
Duration maximum 15 months, minimum 3 months before P assessment,
BAC 0.02
Pillions None.
Speed Restrict Normal posted limits apply
Plates L Plates required.
Points 4 or more means 3 month suspension
PROVISIONAL LICENCE
Requirements Must have current ACT Learners motorcycle licence
Must pass Alternate MOST practical skills assessment
with a no more than 8 points lost. Involves 7
exercises including not stalling engine, sharp left
turn, normal stop in a box, offset cone weave, U-
turn, quick stop in a straight line, swerve (obstacle
avoidance). No on-road test.
Book through Stay Upright on (02) 61423963. Cost $25
Use Conditions Nil
CC Limit Nil (but changes to law expected in late 1998)
Duration minimum 12 months depending on existing licence class
BAC 0.02
Pillions None for first year.
Speed Restrict No additional
Plates 'P' Plates required.
Points 4 or more means 3 month suspension
4.5 New South Wales
Compiled by Chris Martin, Colin Panisset <c...@zip.com.au> & Thomas Cohen
<th...@cia.com.au>.
See also
the RTA's Licence Info
http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/dvpr/cis/b1.htm
[ Learners Permit | Provisional Licence | Open Licence ]
LEARNERS PERMIT
Minimum age Must be over the age of 16yrs, 9 months.
Requirements Must pass a two day riding course (3.5 hrs per day) plus a
Computer-based knowledge test (Standard Learners + a
bike-specific section).
* Note: Course is optional if you live in an area that
does not contain a testing station; you will be requires
to pass a riding skill test (bizarre, eh?) [ I don't
belive there are any such exempt areas any more. ]
Use Conditions not drive in Centennial Park, Sydney
not teach other learners
CC Limit Less than 260cc
Bike must have a power to wieght ratio of no more than
150kw/tonne (figure based on an 'average' rider of 75kg)
Thus most 2 strokes are out. :( eg: RGV250, TZR250, KR1-S,
NSR250.
Duration Must hold licence for a minimum of 3 months, licence is
valid for 6 months.
Learners under 25 must licence for a minimum of 6 months.
BAC 0.02
Pillions Only riders with at least 2 years full licence experience.
Towing not tow trailer or another vehicle
Speed Restrict 80 Km/H
Plates Must display 'L' Plates.
Points ???
PROVISIONAL LICENCE
Requirements Must pass a one day driving
course (Duration is the entire
day).
* Note: Course is optional if
you live in an area that does
not contain a testing station.
[ I don't belive there are any
such exempt areas any more. ]
Use Conditions Nil.
CC Limit As for Learners.
Duration Normally, 12 months. For
riders over 30 who hold a full
car license, the duration is 3
months.
BAC 0.02
Pillions None.
Speed Restrict Speed is restricted to 80/km/h
Plates 'P' plates must be displayed.
Points 4 licence points.
OPEN LICENCE
Requirements If you are over 30 years
of age, and are eligable
for a you have passed the
provisional test.
Use Conditions
CC Limit
Duration
BAC 0.05
Pillions Ok.
Speed Restrict
Plates
Points
4.6 Tasmania
Compiled by John Lamp <John...@utas.edu.au>.
[ Learners | Provisional ]
LEARNERS
Requirements Be 16 years of age or older
Satisfactorily complete a Level 1 motorcycle rider
training course (if required)
A candidate may undertake Level 1 training three months
prior to attaining 16 years of age
Pass a written test on Traffic Law.
Use Conditions Not between sunset and sunrise (exemption may be issued).
CC Limit 250cc
Duration 1 year
BAC 0.0%
Pillions No, unless the pillion has held a motorcycle license for
three years and is being carried for the purposes of
instruction.
Speed Restrict 80 kph
Plates L plate required.
Points ???
PROVISIONAL
Requirements Satisfactorily complete a Level 2
motorcycle rider training course (if
required).
Pass an oral law/regulation test.
Pass a driving test.
Pass an eyesight test.
Be at least 17 years of age - although a
candidate may undertake Level 2 training
three months prior to and undergo a
driving test one month prior to attaining
that age.
Use Conditions
CC Limit 250cc
Duration 3 years
BAC 0.0%
Pillions No
Speed Restrict 80kph
Plates P plates required for the first 12 months
Points 3
If you are already the holder of a full license, cc limit of 250cc, and no
pillion for first 12 months.
4.7 Northern Territory
Anybody? What gives in the last bastion of the open limit?
Requirements
Use Conditions
CC Limit
Duration
BAC
Pillions
Speed Restrict
Plates
Points
4.8 Victoria
Compiler by Jason Brand <br...@mame.mu.oz.au>.
[ Learner | Probationary | Full ]
LEARNERS PERMIT
Requirements 17yrs 9mths
written and riding test
(RTA or private course)
cc limit 260cc
Duration 3mths - 1yr
BAC 0.00
Pillion No
Speed restrictions No additional
Plates Yellow "L" plate(s)?
17yrs 9mths
Written and riding test
(RTA or private course)
cc limit 260cc
Duration 3mths - 1yr
BAC 0.00
Pillion No
Speed restrictions No additional
Plates Yellow "L" plate(s)?
PROBATIONARY LICENCE (urr,
shouldn't this be
"provisional"?)
Requirements Hold Learners permit for
at least 3 mths
Written and riding test
(RTA or private course)
cc limit 260cc
Duration 3 yrs if full drivers
license not held.
1 yr if full drivers
license held
BAC 0.00
Pillion No
Speed restrictions No additional
Plates Red "P" plate(s)?
FULL LICENCE
Requirements Hold Probationary License for duration (see above)
cc limit None
Duration ???
BAC 0.05
Pillion Yes
Speed restrictions No additional
5. 1.5 What about lanesplitting?
5.1 Lanesplitting Legalities
(Note that overtaking on the right is legal in all states with indicator).
Vic legal cars must be stationary.
WA legal cars must be stationary,
you must indicate to
change lanes and you
must not cross a solid
white line.
NSW illegal
ACT illegal
Qld illegal
SA illegal
NT illegal
5.2 Lanesplitting Sensibilities
The aus.motorcycles community is split about 50/50 on whether it is a good
thing or not. Don't bother arguing about it, there are good cases for and
against and you'll get nowhere. If you lanesplit, try and keep these things in
mind:
o your lack of buffer zones (space around you) means MUCH less reaction
time
o cars run red lights (YES REALLY!) so look both ways
o drivers are frightened & annoyed by hoons
Speaking for myself, my criteria for splitting are usually:
o Not if the traffic is moving (sometimes if it's crawling).
o Not if I'd have to put my feet down during the split anywhere.
o Not if I can't be sure of reaching the front or a visible bike-sized gap
before the traffic starts to move again.
Some drivers will notice you coming and shift aside to let you pass. I try
always to wave or nod (or say "thanks!" if their window's open) to acknowledge
this courtesy.
Cameron Simpson
Tim Bell <bh...@cs.mu.OZ.AU> wrote:
| Hi Cameron,
| Here are some minor updates to the Victorian licencing requirements.
| (Just clarifications of what's there already.)
[...]
Thanks. Please check it out at:
http://www.zip.com.au/~cs/moto/aus.moto/FAQ/part1.html#lic-vic
to be sure it's right. Ta.
--
Cameron Simpson, DoD#743 c...@zip.com.au http://www.zip.com.au/~cs/
I had a wierd dream with Ken Thompson in it once.
- George Politis <geo...@research.canon.com.au>