TTR 250 Starter Problem
Philip.Jackson
Whilst my TTR 250 is off the road due to the rear suspension needing a bit of
work, I decided to investigate my noisy (but still working) starter
motor. After taking off the starter motor I found that two teeth on the idler
gear that meshes with the starter motor are partially stripped and that the
teeth on the end of the shaft of the starter motor are all looking decidedly
second hand. Whilst my bike is somewhat in pieces I thought that I might look
at getting these things fixed before they completely pack it in.
A trip to the local yamaha dealer on the way to work this morning revealed the
following; the idler gear costs about $80-90 and is supposed to be purchased
with the other idler gear which it meshes with (apparantly they are a matching
pair) which also costs about $90. The starter motor bit itself cost somewhere
between $300-400 (can't remember the exact figure). So all up I am faced with
the prospect of spending $500-600 to fix a noisy starter which still works.
I seem to remember someone on this news group having recently had to replace a
starter motor on a TTR 250. I was just wondering if buying the genuine Yamaha
parts is the only option I have is or is there some other way I can fix this
problem?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Phil
Philip Jackson
Oops; just relised that my email address on my origonal posting was
wrong.
To reply via email just remove the .NOSPAM from the reply-to address in
this message.
Phil
Marty Wicks
On 02 Dec 1997 01:06:27 GMT, p...@mod.dsto.gov.au (Philip.Jackson)
wrote:
<snip amazingly similar story of woe>
>Any advice would be appreciated.
Phil,
I've got no idea if there are aftermarket bits or not. I actually
went through one starter motor, 3 'big' idler gears and 2 'small'
idler gears (the ones that the bigger gear meshes too). The original
starter motor shaft was nearly rounded smooth and the 2nd one I'd
installed was becoming much the same. I didn't realise that you could
buy the starter motor shaft by itself. I'd been told to buy a
complete motor (~$600 new), but managed to find a 2nd hand one in Qld
for $270. You could always buy a kick start kit, but these cost ~$570
from memory (in my case, this would have been much cheaper 3 x $90, 2
x $108 for idler gears, plus $270 for starter). I tried asking
several places about the possibility of buying a 2nd hand starter off
a Yamaha 4 wheeler (a bloke in Warrnambool is supposed to have a
paddock full of wrecked 4 wheelers), but no-one could tell me if this
was possible. Webby's of Caloundra are supposed to be the nation's
expert on TTR's. It might be worth a call to see if they have any
ideas. Ph - 07 54919277.
One thing I do know is, that it's worth fixing while it's at this
stage. You've no idea how pissed off I was when I found two big teeth
when I drained the sump. No idea how long they'd been banging around
inside the motor.. scary thought.
In a way I'm relieved to hear this, as I'd not heard of one other
person with this trouble. Not much comfort to you I'm sure. Best of
luck finding anything out.
marty
KTM 400SC - woohoo!!
was TTR250
Damien O'Toole
Marty Wicks wrote:
>
> <snip heavy handed button pushing stuff>
> marty
> KTM 400SC - woohoo!!
> was TTR250
ello, ello, ello wot's this ere then?
You got it! Are you going to get it dirty or just look at it?
Nice colour! Tho mine is white, they tell me the orange ones go faster,
but I don't believe them - that's only true for the colour red...
Hey, maybe yours is white too!? Is it? 97 model?
Do tell!!!!!!!!!!!!!
--
Damien O'Toole - dot...@au1.ibm.com
Current beastie - 97 KTM 620 GSE
previous beasties
96 Husky TE 610 - don't buy one !!!!!!!!!!
Yamaha TT350, IT200, IT175 x 3, DT250
CZ250
Ducati 450 scrambler
I am green but not extreme.................
........give back our public land!
Marty Wicks
>ello, ello, ello wot's this ere then?
>
>You got it! Are you going to get it dirty or just look at it?
>Nice colour! Tho mine is white, they tell me the orange ones go faster,
>but I don't believe them - that's only true for the colour red...
>Hey, maybe yours is white too!? Is it? 97 model?
Was wondering if you'd pick that up.. well, it's kinda dusty at the
moment. I only picked it up yesterday arvo (erm.. Tuesday) and today
I feel like shit on a stick again... it's not fair.. It vibrates like
all get out (others on another thread would be well impressed by this
I'm sure - when the sales dude started it up on full choke, the bike
started to dance down Elizabeth street on the centre stand) but geez,
has it got some mumbo right off the throttle. At the moment I just
like looking at it.. it's Ooooohhhrange. I'm thinking that I would
probably be better off with a 400GSE (Counter balance and the
button!!) but I'll give this a go and see how things shape up. After
only a short 15km squirt through the bush, it's a very tiring bike to
ride, but that may just be me being feeling a bit crook and so bloody
tense - it feels like I'm riding someone else's bike and I don't wanna
bend it. It's a '97, only 4 months old and 321kms on the clock.
Starts a lot easier than I would've thought and the left hand kick
isn't that big a deal either. The joker before me cut the wires for
the blinkers and I couldn't find anywhere to rejoin them.. Might have
to get some help on that front.
I'll stop rambling for now, but if there's any KTMmmmm tricks you know
of, I'm all ears.
cheers,
marty
KTM 400SC - It's orange and full of juice!
Damien O'Toole
Marty Wicks wrote:
> I'm sure - when the sales dude started it up on full choke, the bike
> started to dance down Elizabeth street on the centre stand
Yep, you can have backward races with other KTM's by having them on
their centre stands on a flat surface and revving - hehehehehe
Tho mine's not as gurgley as the SC (it's the GSE).
> only a short 15km squirt through the bush, it's a very tiring bike to
> ride, but that may just be me being feeling a bit crook and so bloody
> tense
I don't find that, I find it very easy to ride. It is a bit freeeeky on
the first ride of anything tho, ya gotta loosen up, I'm wound up until
the first jump or wheelie, that settles me down........
> Starts a lot easier than I would've thought
By 1000k you'll be able to do it with your hand - seriously!
> The joker before me cut the wires for
> the blinkers and I couldn't find anywhere to rejoin them..
Some dumb people out there.
>
> I'll stop rambling for now, but if there's any KTMmmmm tricks you know
> of, I'm all ears.
Check out the KTM Au web page, there's a bit on setup for the LC4's -
well worth a look! www.ktm.com.au
Mine:
Replaced the big back guard with a smaller Acerbis one.
Rear blinkers replaced by tiny $4.65 a pair ones from K-Mart, they sit
snuggly on the Acerbis guard and work very well.
Barkbusters & weathershields.
Whipps bashplate - don't leave home without one!
Acerbis fold down rear view mirrors.
Dunlop K139 on the front.
Recross retread on the back, I'm a big fan of these, half the price,
twice the life, great traction and it's recycling!
Lexen mounted in front of the headlight to protect from stones,Lexen is
better than perspex as it flexes (and only $5).
Engine breather filter fitted.
Carby sealed up to stop dust - waterproof sealer.
Disc guard on rear disc.
Swapped the original 40 rear sprocket for a 45.
Put Honda XR/CR tube sealant in both tubes to protect from punctures.
Grease nipples, original mirror mounts and steering lock - go to a
hardware store and buy some 'chair ends' - little rubber thingys - they
cost $1 or so for 4 - these go over the nipples, etc, and stop the gunk
getting in!
Oil and filter(s) change at 500ks! Then every 1000ks. Run mineral oil to
2000k then switch to Castrol mineral/synthetic blend.
Cover the whole lot with a ridiculous amount of stickers to protect the
plastic and awaaaay you go!
That's filled up Saturday for you! Don't forget to buy some beers and
sit down when you're finished and tell yourself what a good job you've
done!
outahere
Marty Wicks
>I don't find that, I find it very easy to ride. It is a bit freeeeky on
>the first ride of anything tho, ya gotta loosen up, I'm wound up until
>the first jump or wheelie, that settles me down........
I've since had a bit more of a blat through the forest and things are
coming along nicely. The vibration isn't a worry on the dirt, but on
the tar it's annoying at 80+. I still can't chuck it around as much
as the TTR as it was slightly smaller, although they're both
(supposedly) the same weight.
>> Starts a lot easier than I would've thought
>By 1000k you'll be able to do it with your hand - seriously!
I'm still wondering why I'd want to try this?? And what sort of
injury I'm going to encounter for this to be necessary? :)
<tonne of setup stuff snipped>
>That's filled up Saturday for you! Don't forget to buy some beers and
>sit down when you're finished and tell yourself what a good job you've
>done!
Just Saturday (or insert whatever day off)?.. one day?? yeeeaahh..
right..
The standard plastic 'bash-plate' isn't any good? I've still got the
Metzler tyres on (Unicross front, and Six Day rear. Are these hard or
soft terrain tyres?).. I always wondered why we put stickers on.. of
course - to protect the plastic!.. just gotta find some now :)
One thing, of many, I don't know a great deal about is fork seals.
Seeing as my 2 previous bikes had boots covering the forks, I'm not
used to seeing oil around the forks. Should any oil be visible around
the seals? There's not a great deal, but a bit has dribbled down the
left fork... should I be worried??
Damien O'Toole
Marty Wicks wrote:
> as the TTR as it was slightly smaller, although they're both
> (supposedly) the same weight.
I wonder....the TTR is definitely smaller, the KTM is quite a tall bike.
My 620 is taller and longer than the H-word 610 was.
European bikes are definitely lighter than the Japs, eg a mates DR250 is
heavier than my 620.
> >> Starts a lot easier than I would've thought
> >By 1000k you'll be able to do it with your hand - seriously!
>
> I'm still wondering why I'd want to try this?? And what sort of
> injury I'm going to encounter for this to be necessary? :)
......party trick, maybe when you lean out of your sleeping bag in the
morning to fire it up while still resting.....
> The standard plastic 'bash-plate' isn't any good?
Hmmmmmm, plastic - tree, rock, ovlov, next question.
> Metzler tyres on (Unicross front, and Six Day rear. Are these hard or
> soft terrain tyres?).
Dunno, I just know what works for lots of different bikes for me.
I've tried other setups from time to time and I keep comeing back to the
Dunlop front/Recross retread rear, both at 15psi for just about every
terrain except sand dunes.
always wondered why we put stickers on.. of
> course - to protect the plastic!.. just gotta find some now :)
My favorite is from the local dive shop -
No sea too rough no muff too tough
> One thing, of many, I don't know a great deal about is fork seals.
> Seeing as my 2 previous bikes had boots covering the forks, I'm not
> used to seeing oil around the forks. Should any oil be visible around
> the seals? There's not a great deal, but a bit has dribbled down the
> left fork... should I be worried??
There will always be a bit of moisture, which is OK, make sure you let
the air out of the forks after *every* ride, air build up will blow the
seals. If it's dribbling you've got a leak, if that much gets out then
dirt and water can get in, clean the forks and give them a good pump to
see how much and if in doubt replace the seals. Did you buy it from a
dealer (warranty)? Are they normal or upside down forks (mine are USD)?
If normal buy some fork boots anyway, it adds that much more protection
- I had TT forks on my H-word, lots of after market stuff around for
cheap $$.
I wanna go riding now....sob
Michael Chester
Marty ,
My guess is that you have damaged a seal . rub your finger over the forks
above and below (if possible) to feel for burrs , if there is , rub down
with wet & dry 800+ and go for a warranty claim
Michael Chester
Charlie and Helen Franklin
Damien O'Toole wrote:
> Dunlop K139 on the front.
> Recross retread on the back, I'm a big fan of these, half the price,
> twice the life, great traction and it's recycling!
> outahere
> --
> Damien O'Toole - dot...@au1.ibm.com
>
> Current beastie - 97 KTM 620 GSE
>
> previous beasties
> 96 Husky TE 610 - don't buy one !!!!!!!!!!
> Yamaha TT350, IT200, IT175 x 3, DT250
> CZ250
> Ducati 450 scrambler
>
> I am green but not extreme.................
> ........give back our public land!
I have a couple of questions about the retreads.
How bad are they on wet bitumen?
I have been told that haveing tyres marked "Not for Highway Use" on your
bike when you have a crash, will invalidate any insurance claim. Do you
know anything about this?
The biggest size they come in is 110/90 This is a fair bit smaller then
the recomended tyre on a TT600 (130/90). Are they OK on bigger bikes?
Hope you or some other reader can answer these questions.
Charlie Franklin
Ted Palmer
Charlie and Helen Franklin <Cha...@netspace.net.au> wrote:
[...]
>I have been told that haveing tyres marked "Not for Highway Use" on your
>bike when you have a crash, will invalidate any insurance claim. Do you
>know anything about this?
Maybe in the US where the DOT there says things like "not for highway
use" should be on certain tyres.
Over here it's not such a big deal. Plenty of dirt bikes get around on
knobbies legally. They do have a tread of some sort, after all.
Plenty of my visors have "daytime use only" because they're tinted,
but I doubt if it's legally binding out here, yet.
OTOH, in some backward countries, wearing a tinted visor on the road
anytime is cause to get done over by the plod.
Mister_T
"The CBX was a pretty quick weapon with very acceptable handling and
reasonable rider/pillion comfort. A twin headlight fairing with
bellypan added to the style." Two Wheels Best Buys '94
--
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
| RC17 KLR600 FreeBSD 2.2.2-R NT4W(blergh) Roces BCN |
| tedp[at]replicant[dot]apana[dot]org[dot]au |
\|_________________________________________________________________|
Marty Wicks
>I wonder....the TTR is definitely smaller, the KTM is quite a tall bike.
>My 620 is taller and longer than the H-word 610 was.
>European bikes are definitely lighter than the Japs, eg a mates DR250 is
>heavier than my 620.
The KTM is both taller and longer, but the same weight.. spose liquid
cooled helps there?
>There will always be a bit of moisture, which is OK, make sure you let
>the air out of the forks after *every* ride, air build up will blow the
>seals. If it's dribbling you've got a leak, if that much gets out then
>dirt and water can get in, clean the forks and give them a good pump to
>see how much and if in doubt replace the seals. Did you buy it from a
>dealer (warranty)? Are they normal or upside down forks (mine are USD)?
>If normal buy some fork boots anyway, it adds that much more protection
>- I had TT forks on my H-word, lots of after market stuff around for
>cheap $$.
OK, it's leaving 'ring' marks when it travels.. and a bit of fluid is
dribbling down the fork leg again.. time for a phone call and see how
well this warranty works. Also have to chase him for the rego sticker
that the plod who pulled me over wanted to see. Lucky he was pretty
cool about it and the lack of mirrors. Glad he didn't see me go
around any corners :) Umm, it has conventional forks. What are TT
forks (surely not forks from a TT600??). I've got White Power Extreme
forks (so the manual says)..
>I wanna go riding now....sob
I just did (well, when it was lighter) and I christianed it! Nice
black mud. Hmm... I reckon it'd look pretty good with black wheels.
Not my day, pulled over by the plod, smack the lower fork into a stump
and nearly filled my jocks trying to control the beast, and then
dropping it in about the only puddle I've seen in 2 weeks.. oh well
'nuff said,
Damien O'Toole
Ted Palmer wrote:
>
> Charlie and Helen Franklin <Cha...@netspace.net.au> wrote:
>
> [...]
> >I have been told that haveing tyres marked "Not for Highway Use" on your
> >bike when you have a crash, will invalidate any insurance claim. Do you
> >know anything about this?
>
> Maybe in the US where the DOT there says things like "not for highway
> use" should be on certain tyres.
> Over here it's not such a big deal. Plenty of dirt bikes get around on
> knobbies legally. They do have a tread of some sort, after all.
Someone in the DSMRA (Dual Sports Motorcycle Riders Association) went
a-hunting for the Oz law on this and apparently it just states the
minimum tread depth, ie, knobbies are fine...
Mind you, they don't stick very well on tar.
Sam Michaelson
Michael Chester wrote:
> Marty ,
[*No! Don't do it! Don't do it! You'll get us <whap>ed!**Don't be
such a sookysooky lala - here goes.....heh heh.....*]
> My guess is that you have damaged a seal .
Yeah, I know that joke, it finishes:"Hey, it looks like you've blown a
seal""Nah, I spilt my milkshake"
hee hee.....
Sam (Boadicea's Mummy)
Geoffrey Hansford
Sam Michaelson wrote in message
:)
Geoff Hansford
Suzuki Bandit 1200 ABS (Doolan)
Damien O'Toole
Sam Michaelson wrote:
>
> > My guess is that you have damaged a seal .
>
> Yeah, I know that joke, it finishes:"Hey, it looks like you've blown a
> seal""Nah, I spilt my milkshake"
>
Nah, it's supposed to be 'it's only snow on my mo!'
Sam , please quote smut correctly ;-{)
hohohohohohohoho (it is Christmas soon)
--
Damien O'Toole - dot...@au1.ibm.com
Current beastie - 97 KTM 620 GSE
beastie in bits - 79 YZ 250
previous beasties
96 Husky TE 610 - junk!
Robyn!!
Damien O'Toole <dot...@au1.ibm.com> wrote in article <348E94...@au1.ibm.com>...
> hohohohohohohoho (it is Christmas soon)
It'll be Christmas sooner for you than the rest of us...
It's quite impressive how you post your messages to the
newsgroup tomorrow and they show up today. :)
[Is the date set incorrectly or is your computer just faster
than most?]
--
Robyn!!
(Sadly bikeless, but lusting after a Mmmmonster)
--
But now having resigned myself to the fact that I can't ride an
M600 while on my L permit, I'll settle for a VTR250 (for now).
Damien O'Toole
Marty Wicks wrote lots but I snipped some
> OK, it's leaving 'ring' marks when it travels.. and a bit of fluid is
> dribbling down the fork leg again.. time for a phone call and see how
> well this warranty works.
Go get 'em, that's what you pay the dealer extra for.
> Also have to chase him for the rego sticker
> that the plod who pulled me over wanted to see. Lucky he was pretty
> cool about it and the lack of mirrors. Glad he didn't see me go
> around any corners :)
No rego sticker is a bit slack, as for the corners, you weren't out
there having fun were you? Tsk, tsk.
Umm, it has conventional forks. What are TT
> forks (surely not forks from a TT600??).
Nope I just use the TT350 fork boots.
> I've got White Power Extreme
> forks (so the manual says)..
Me too but they're USD's. Personally I can't tell the difference between
the handling of conventional and USD's.....yet.
I still haven't let the thing loose yet, I'm being careful(?!) until I
get 1000ks on the clock.
>
> >I wanna go riding now....sob
>
> I just did (well, when it was lighter) and I christianed it! Nice
> black mud. Hmm... I reckon it'd look pretty good with black wheels.
> Not my day, pulled over by the plod, smack the lower fork into a stump
> and nearly filled my jocks trying to control the beast, and then
> dropping it in about the only puddle I've seen in 2 weeks.. oh well
>
Yep, always on the edge........
--
Damien O'Toole - dot...@au1.ibm.com
Current beastie - 97 KTM 620 GSE
beastie in bits - 76 YZ 250
Damien O'Toole
Hi Charlie
> How bad are they on wet bitumen?
Just as bad as any nobby. The best bet is be careful and avoid tar
whenever you can, wet or dry.
>
> I have been told that haveing tyres marked "Not for Highway Use" on your
> bike when you have a crash, will invalidate any insurance claim. Do you
> know anything about this?
False, the NFHU guff is US law, ADR (Australian Design Regulations) only
dictates tread depth in this country. I've never heard of an insurance
company knocking back a claim because of tyres that are perfectly legal!
Do you know the insurance company name?
> The biggest size they come in is 110/90 This is a fair bit smaller then
> the recomended tyre on a TT600 (130/90). Are they OK on bigger bikes?
They come in 100/110/120/130 & 140. I ran 130's on my TT350 and 140's on
my Husky and now the KTM. I got 1400kms out of a retread on my Husky 610
and people told me I should have left it on longer! There's few bikes
road or trail that will put power to the ground like a Husky 610 and I
push my bikes thru some serious adventures!
Are you in Sydney? I can get you one to try if you like. I don't make
them but know the guy quite well who does, I met him when I had my trail
bike tours. There's a bunch of us who have all tried them and wouldn't
go back to 'real' tyres now.
BTW I'm talking about Recross Retreads made in NSW, not the ones made in
WA. I've never tried the west Oz ones so I can't comment on them.