This is my first post here, and I wish it could have been under happier
circumstances. Still, hopefully things will improve and I'll have some good
news down the track. Maybe.
Anybody out there had this problem?
I bought my 96 R1100RT
(Ok, sportsbike fans, I've seen and heard most of the BMW gags. No, I'm not
a BMWanker. Just a guy who wanted a reliable touring bike to last me to
2010. I was also looking at new TL/VTR 1000's - for the sports option - as
well as a Kawasaki GTR and a Honda ST at the time.)
(Now, with that out of the way, let's get to it) -
I bought the BMW just 3 months back and paid a very hefty dealer premium for
it. But it was in supposedly excellent condition and had only 23,500km
(14,600 miles) on the dial. I also went to this dealer instead of another
guy just around the corner who had a similar bike (a 98 model with
30,000km/18,600 miles), because I discovered he'd recently lost his
Authorised BMW Dealer status. I wanted someone I could trust who had a good
reputation. So it's understandable why I'd pay top $ for a good bike from
the right people, right? "Ultimate riding machine" (their words on the
warranty book), reputable dealer, very young on the speedo.
Anyway, the other day while on the freeway, I gave the throttle its first
real sharp blast, to blow off a guy in a car tailgating me. The engine
revved higher, but nothing happened - the engine in essence was freewheeling
with no connection to the drive shaft/rear wheel. When I returned the
throttle to its orginal position and then turned it more gently, things
improved.
I reported the problem to the BMW technicians where I bought the bike. They
tell me it's most likely because the clutch/crankcase seal is worn and oil
has leaked onto the clutchplate.
Then they tell me the problem is a known fault in the model and occurs
precisely around the time my bike was traded by the previous owner. - nice
to know guys! I've done 2000km / 1250 miles, all of them freeway with very
little gear changing. I baby this thing - even put the thing in neutral at
traffic lights on every occasion to save the clutch. Somehow I DON'T think I
caused this problem!
So it seems now I'm up for about $1000 (AUS) in labour, plus parts! Would
have been nice if they'd checked the bike out before selling it to me now,
wouldn't it? I mean, this is what the BMW name is all about, isn't it -
integrity, engineering excellence, durability?
I've contacted BMW Corporate here in Australia to find out what should have
happened prior to sale in terms of vehicle checks, repairs, etc. The dealer
is an Authorised BMW representative, so he'd be bound here by a BMW code of
practice in that regard. Just waiting on their response, which I may yet
share with you.
Oh, incidently, wouldn't this come under the heading of a design safety
fault? Safety faults are subject to comulsory recall by numerous federal
authorities worldwide, including here in Oz.
Think about it - you go about your daily bike business when you are suddenly
put into a position where you need to accelerate very quickly out of a
collision situation. It happens so often to most of us it's almost routine.
Just then your clutch decides it has too much oil on it. OUCH!
What if it developed far enough that your clutch gave up completely before
you even knew there was a problem. A seal leak is a seal leak - it can leak
a little or it can blow big time. Clutch fails at the intersection of Ryde
and Victoria Roads (for you Sydney riders), and you are on the front row, in
gear, waiting for the lights While trucks are barrelling past just a few
metres away. Your clutch creeps and SPLAT.
Thankfully, there are laws here governing sale of motor vehicles to protect
consumers against faults. Still, I don't like my chances getting the dealer
to fork out on the repairs.
Similar story, anyone? Or has anyone out there had trhe repairs done and can
tell me the end result after a few years riding since - has it failed again
since the first time? The BMW techs were telling me even they thought the
"BMW approved method of repair" was only a bandaid solution - wrapping the
end of the gear input shaft in a felt sleeve to protect the new seal.
An alternative was provided to BMW Germany for approval which involved
honing the input shaft end to accommodate a K-Series seal, but this was met
simply with a "very interesting" and nothing further.
I'd be most interested to hear from you.
Cheers
Jim
> Anyway, the other day while on the freeway, I gave the throttle its first
> real sharp blast, to blow off a guy in a car tailgating me. The engine
> revved higher, but nothing happened - the engine in essence was freewheeling
> with no connection to the drive shaft/rear wheel. When I returned the
> throttle to its orginal position and then turned it more gently, things
> improved.
>
> I reported the problem to the BMW technicians where I bought the bike. They
> tell me it's most likely because the clutch/crankcase seal is worn and oil
> has leaked onto the clutchplate.
>
> Then they tell me the problem is a known fault in the model and occurs
> precisely around the time my bike was traded by the previous owner. - nice
> to know guys! I've done 2000km / 1250 miles, all of them freeway with very
> little gear changing. I baby this thing - even put the thing in neutral at
> traffic lights on every occasion to save the clutch. Somehow I DON'T think I
> caused this problem!
>
<snippage>
> I'd be most interested to hear from you.
>
> Cheers
> Jim
Wow. Your story is certainly not typical, at least here in the U.S. I
have not heard anyone describe what happened to you, either at the
dealer, in our club, or at many, many rallies.
Sounds more like splines on the output shaft have slipped or worn off,
rather than clutch. This was a malady back in 1981/82 but rare even
then. I have a 1981 R100S with just over 100,000 miles [25,000 with
sidecar] and it never had the problem. I just hollered at my local
dealer owner, and he confirms he has never had one fail like that.
I've ridden Beemers over 350,000 miles on seven models in eight
countries and they have never once left me stranded 'ceptin the times I
hit the deer and the pickup truck. Hang in there and best of luck.
--
-bts
-This space intentionally left blank.
Aussie problem only? Unlikely, but I've experienced it myself on an
R1100R(40,000kms), heard of a few other occurences myself and been told by
BMW mechanics that it's not unusual on R1100 models.
They dont fail all of a sudden, your clutch just starts slipping due to the
coating of gearbox oil.
My K100 sidecar had done 240,000kms before I retired it. It still has the
original clutch in it, driveshafts and rear drive splines are another
matter.
Al
Umm if the splines were worn off why would you get drive again at gentle
throttle ? The symptoms described are exactly those of a slipping clutch
- whether this is common on a Beemer or not I have no idea, never owned
one.
JL
I'd check the clutch itself first, before going for dealer-reapirs. Being a
single-plate dry cltch it's easy enuff to just slide it off the input shaft,
stick your fingers in and check for oil. If dry, it's only the clutch, which
would take about 3-4 hours to do yourself, around $450 in parts.
If you're in Melb and need the clutch alignment tool (just a tapered pin),
let me know.
cheers
pete
>
>Then they tell me the problem is a known fault in the model
i have the very similar 96 r1100rs... same engine, same tranny. I bought
mine with 10K miles about 2 years ago, when I hit about 20K miles, I
started to experience clutch slippage under extreme conditions (5th gear,
100MPH, full throttle).... Problem turned out to be the transmission
input shaft seal, apparently quite common on certain 96 r1100's due to a
funky circlip that was misinstalled...
luckily, I got an extended after market warranty, the fix was to replace
the whole transmission with a factory rebuilt unit.
uh, pulling the clutch on an oilhead is a major job... you have to yank
the whole rear end of the bike... the rear subframe has to be removed, the
rear drive unit, the paralever, then the transmission. NOW you have
access to the clutch. See, the engine/tranny unit *are* a key part of
the frame of these bikes...
picture of my r1100rs on the stand with its tranny yanked...
http://hogranch.com/s300/2001-07-20/101-0167_IMG.JPG
oil-damaged clutch disk...
http://hogranch.com/s300/2001-07-20/101-0165_IMG.JPG
<Snip>
> Thankfully, there are laws here governing sale of motor vehicles to protect
> consumers against faults. Still, I don't like my chances getting the dealer
> to fork out on the repairs.
<Snip>
You bought a bike that developed a fault. Jesus, why make such a bloody
song and dance about it? You're not the first and you'll not be the
last.
As for all this "safety" crap - you're not after a damages claim, are
you.
Grow up, stop whingeing, get the dealer to fix it properly (as he
should).
End of story.
--
www.btinternet.com/~Chateau.Murray/homepage2.html XJ900S 750SS CB400F
Z400 CB200 BOF#30 GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 WUSS#5 YTC#3
IHABWTJ#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 OSOS#1
Hehe, the picture illustrates nicely that you don't remove the engine from
the bike, you rather remove the bike from the engine ;-)
Back in the early 80ies I assisted a friend who had to replace a worn clutch
on his R75/5 or so. It took us some 2 hours to remove the engine, replace
the clutch, and reassemble.
After the test ride, the clutch had failed *again*!?!
We ripped the engine out of the bike (took us only 20 minutes, since we knew
exactly how to do that) and found that parts of the friction plate were
gone - corrosion or something. Drove to the shop to get a new one, and
bolted the engine back in.
Net wrenching time: 50 minutes.
Looks like a very different wrenching experience on an oilhead.
--
tilman
germany
2001 ducati 996S
Conehead
Always smiling, just like a retard
I had very similar things happen with a then new 1985 K100RS. Lots of things
went wrong with it. Stupid stuff like when you opened the fuel filler after
riding in the rain, you dumped water straight in to the tank!! 4 rear
suspension units, (until I bought a Fournales unit), speedo(s), fork seals,
seat, paint peeling, and yes as mentioned rear spline, drive shaft, primary
drive gear, etc, etc, etc
But the thing did over 200,000 km when I sold it for $5000 (I paid $8000
brand new...) Never used oil, (after 30,000 km mark,that is) and ran and
handled beautifully, if a little top heavy when compared to a boxer.
But BMW fixed the lot, even out of warranty; they will look after you.
Persevere with it. Hound the dealer. If he won't do anything write to head
office. I know personally that they DO follow these things up.
Good Luck.
HTH
--
Laurie "BMWoes" <james...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:X6aR8.18844$Hj3....@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
> BMWoes <james...@bigpond.com> wrote:
>
> <Snip>
>
> > Thankfully, there are laws here governing sale of motor vehicles to protect
> > consumers against faults. Still, I don't like my chances getting the dealer
> > to fork out on the repairs.
>
> <Snip>
>
> You bought a bike that developed a fault. Jesus, why make such a bloody
> song and dance about it? You're not the first and you'll not be the
> last.
>
> As for all this "safety" crap - you're not after a damages claim, are
> you.
>
> Grow up, stop whingeing, get the dealer to fix it properly (as he
> should).
>
> End of story.
And what about the cross-posting then eh? didn't spot that then did you?
;-)
--
Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, OSOS#5 - BMW K100RS 8v, Honda Concerto 16v
(RIP H100s, CB400N, CB750KZ, XJ600s) Windows free zone (Mac G3)
<http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ahewitt/index.htm> (last update 11/01)
That was your big mistake.
Expect the oil sight glass to pop out at sometime, the speedo will stop
working, as will the screen. The electrics occasionally go on holiday for no
apparent reason. The centre stands break (there's apparently been a recall
on these), and there's your leaking seal problem.
We run these bikes alongside Honda Pan Europeans. The Pans break down about
a tenth of the times the BMWs do. The Pans also handle better, go faster
without making your hands and feet go numb with the vibration and parts are
easier to come by.
Take it back, sell it, and get a Pan.
--
Stu
GPX600R XJ900 (Broke)
YTC#11 OSOS#23
stuc...@MYPLONKERyahoo.co.uk
pull my plonker to reply
> Back in the early 80ies I assisted a friend who had to replace a worn clutch
> on his R75/5 or so. It took us some 2 hours to remove the engine, replace
> the clutch, and reassemble.
Frames are nice for that.
> After the test ride, the clutch had failed *again*!?!
>
> We ripped the engine out of the bike (took us only 20 minutes, since we knew
> exactly how to do that) and found that parts of the friction plate were
> gone - corrosion or something. Drove to the shop to get a new one, and
> bolted the engine back in.
>
> Net wrenching time: 50 minutes.
Lesson learned: when some very difficult taking-apart operation is done,
check everything you can get your hands on. Replace anything marginal
while you're in there.
> Looks like a very different wrenching experience on an oilhead.
Yes. The engine and transmission essentially *are* the frame. The rear
subframe is bolted to the transmission and engine. The front subframe is
bolted to the top of the engine. The Telelever bolts though the engine.
IIRC, there's an illustration in the Haynes manual that shows a rear
subframe suspended from the ceiling above the back end of the bike where
the transmission, paralever, and rear wheel were.
--
Timberwoof <timberwoof at infernosoft dot com>
http://www.infernosoft.com/timberwoof/motorcycle/index.html
a motorcycle faq: http://www.infernosoft.com/timberwoof/motorcycle/faq.shtml
> The Older Gentleman <chateau...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
> > BMWoes <james...@bigpond.com> wrote:
> >
> > <Snip>
> >
> > > Thankfully, there are laws here governing sale of motor vehicles to
> > > protect consumers against faults. Still, I don't like my chances
> > > getting the dealer to fork out on the repairs.
> >
> > <Snip>
> >
> > You bought a bike that developed a fault. Jesus, why make such a bloody
> > song and dance about it? You're not the first and you'll not be the
> > last.
> >
> > As for all this "safety" crap - you're not after a damages claim, are
> > you.
> >
> > Grow up, stop whingeing, get the dealer to fix it properly (as he
> > should).
> >
> > End of story.
>
> And what about the cross-posting then eh? didn't spot that then did you?
> ;-)
Well, I did, but so what?
--
www.btinternet.com/~Chateau.Murray/homepage2.html XJ900S 750SS CB400F
Z400 BOF#30 GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 WUSS#5 YTC#3 IHABWTJ#1
BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 OSOS#1
<Snipped Text>
> > > End of story.
> >
> > And what about the cross-posting then eh? didn't spot that then did you?
> > ;-)
>
> Well, I did, but so what?
Well, I agreed with the rest of what you said, and cross-posting was the
only thing you didn't mention.
>
>We run these bikes alongside Honda Pan Europeans. The Pans break down about
>a tenth of the times the BMWs do. The Pans also handle better, go faster
>without making your hands and feet go numb with the vibration and parts are
>easier to come by.
>
>Take it back, sell it, and get a Pan.
We stopped doing the beemers a few years back for the same reasons.
Had a few on test since and had similar problems though.
--
JP
ST1100 Pan European (in even more incredible tacky colourscheme!)
ZX9R E1 (It's big and it's green!) XTZ750 Super Tenere
"Leaner, meaner Janitorial Cleaner"! IBW#5
NATC#1 MHP#1 MMJ#1 BotToS#1 UKRMFBC#4(provisional) KotHMC#
Apostle#11
> Lesson learned: when some very difficult taking-apart operation is done,
> check everything you can get your hands on. Replace anything marginal
> while you're in there.
The problem was the *new* clutch disk we replaced the worn part with. A
faulty part. The friction stuff didn't stick properly on the steel plate and
came off in chunks during operation. We found corrosion on the steel plate
carrying the actual friction stuff. No problem to get a replacement part at
the BMW shop. They claimed they had never seen something like that before.
Imagine that happens with brake pads where the braking stuff doesn't stick
properly to the steel carrier plate. Big "Oops"!
Obviously I failed to describe the problem properly in the first place.
"BMWoes" <james...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:X6aR8.18844$Hj3....@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
Well, weren't you lucky. BM AUS gave me nothing but crap with an 17 months
old bike, 4400km done, bought 2. hand in Warrnambool from a BM-dealer, mint
looks and externals. By the time we were back in Melb, the clutch was
stuffed, later we found out it was a common problem on a particular '86
batch of R80s.
BM didn't wanna dance, despite the apparently genuine low mileage and being
17 months old at the time.
They also stuck a spanner in the works when it came to warranty claims on
forkseals on the bought brandnew R100LT and other stuff.
So, from having 2 airheads we've gone anything-but-BM, and in my books,
BMW-AUS can get rooted.
Never had problems like that with any bike/brand/importer before or after.
cheers
pete
John Olive
R1100S
"glitch" <gli...@optushome.com.au> wrote in message
news:3d156af2$0$31825$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
Conehead
Always smiling, just like a retard
"BMWoes" <james...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:X6aR8.18844$Hj3....@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
<snip>
> I bought my 96 R1100RT
<snip>
> Anyway, the other day while on the freeway, I gave the throttle its first
> real sharp blast, to blow off a guy in a car tailgating me. The engine
> revved higher, but nothing happened - the engine in essence was
freewheeling
> with no connection to the drive shaft/rear wheel. When I returned the
> throttle to its orginal position and then turned it more gently, things
> improved.
>
> I reported the problem to the BMW technicians where I bought the bike.
They
> tell me it's most likely because the clutch/crankcase seal is worn and oil
> has leaked onto the clutchplate.
<snip>
> The Older Gentleman <chateau...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
> <Snipped Text>
> > > > End of story.
> > >
> > > And what about the cross-posting then eh? didn't spot that then did you?
> > > ;-)
> >
> > Well, I did, but so what?
>
> Well, I agreed with the rest of what you said, and cross-posting was the
> only thing you didn't mention.
Ah.
*Light dawns*.
Very true - especially for the mechanically ignorant (this means me)
Jim
Exactly - thanks. That's one more post I can save for the Corporate guys
Cheers
Jim
The previous owner of my last BMW R100RS had a new dealer-fitted clutch fail
on him after only 600 miles and had to take legal action for recovery of the
costs.
The fault was apparently poor rivetting of the clutch pads.
--
Rod Duggan,
R100RS (Boris)RIP; CB500 ("zippee");
Jeep Cherokee LHD ("Chunkee").
AL
"John Olive" <val...@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:Y1tR8.349899$o66.9...@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
: A clutch replacement on a R1100 engine is certainly not a backyard job.
: >
: >
:
:
Thirteen years ago I bought a 5 year old K100. The clutch splines have
stripped 5 times since then and are about to go again. When the splines
go you loose all power to the back wheel and have no option but to pull
over and stop. The previous owner also replaced the clutch as well as
the drive shaft so the clutch has consistently failed quicker than a set
of tyres. Replacing the clutch myself took over a week of hard work. I
have also had it done by BMW mechanics and they cannot explain why it
goes so often.
Like Stu I have had the speedo go, the black box go and the centre stand
break. I have only kept it so long because it is hard to find a bike
with the same combination of power and economy. The engine also lasts
well, it requires little maintenance and the comfort level is not too
bad. However, I have just got an FJ1200 and have no plans of ever
getting a BMW again, 2 or 4 wheeled. If anyone knows of a way to get the
clutch fixed properly before I sell it please let me know.
We use anti-seize on the spline shafts of the race cars I build.
That or some kind of EP lithium goo....
RickB
Every time it has been lubricated with the special grease recommended by
BMW. I found web sites explaining how to get to all the transmission
splines more easily than a full strip to re-lubricate them. I think the
suggestion was every 20 000 miles. That would be fine if the process
increased the lifetime from 40 to 100 thousand for instance but when the
things last less than 10 thousand there must be something wrong. No sign
of anything bent or misaligned so I am still puzzled.
> Thirteen years ago I bought a 5 year old K100. The clutch splines have
> stripped 5 times since then and are about to go again. When the
> splines go you loose all power to the back wheel and have no option
> but to pull over and stop. The previous owner also replaced the clutch
> as well as the drive shaft so the clutch has consistently failed
> quicker than a set of tyres. Replacing the clutch myself took over a
> week of hard work. I have also had it done by BMW mechanics and they
> cannot explain why it goes so often.
>
> Like Stu I have had the speedo go, the black box go and the centre
> stand break. I have only kept it so long because it is hard to find a
> bike with the same combination of power and economy. The engine also
> lasts well, it requires little maintenance and the comfort level is
> not too bad. However, I have just got an FJ1200 and have no plans of
> ever getting a BMW again, 2 or 4 wheeled. If anyone knows of a way to
> get the clutch fixed properly before I sell it please let me know.
I had 80,000 on my 1987 K100RT when I sold it, never had any problems at
all except the rear drive shaft splines which appeared worn when I changed
the rear tire around 70,000 so I replaced the drive shaft, cost around
$100. Not bad for 13 years, 80,000 miles.
"Rob Copcutt" <rc...@cam.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:3D18D8A5...@cam.ac.uk...
sam wrote:
> interesting, i wonder if the clutch splines on the k-models are smaller than
> the old 100 rt.
> my '81 had about 30 k miles and the clutch splines were still good. i have
> since put a yanmar diesel in it out of a small john deere tractor. and still
> using the old disc.
> also, does the k-model have a shock reducing coupling it it? they may have
> eliminated it in the k's.
> just curious, sammmmm
>
The K100 has:
1. A rubber damper built into the output shaft of the engine.
The K75 lost this feature when the output shaft was
altered to serve as a balance shaft. It gets a damped
friction disc in the clutch, which the K100 lacks.
2. A spring loaded steel ramp type damper on the input shaft
of the transmission.
3. And a rubber drive shaft.
I now have a Honda ST1100 (Pan to you Euro's)
and haven't fixed anything yet.
don
"BMWoes" <james...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:X6aR8.18844$Hj3....@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
> Cheers
> Jim
>
>
Possibly the bell housing is out of alignment - leading to the flywheel
rotating on one axis and the gearbox input shaft (that the clutch rides
on) in another axis.
I think the EP would be better in this aplication compared to anti-size!
Regards Frank Warner
motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S
http://www.geocities.com/fwarner_au/
The K11 has had a TPS problem... but no brain or shaft problem.
The bottom bearing of the speedo dial is sluggish on cold mornings and
is getting worse. May have to make up a new bearing - the original is
plastic.
I have not had the K75 long enought to do any raliablity thingys on it.
The r80 has had 2 hall effect sensors fail.... 2 gearbox bearings and a
rear main oli seal and a shaft shock absober go... 200+,kms It is on the
second clutch, 2nd set of valves and rings, 3rd or 4th cam chain...
>
> "BMWoes" <james...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
> news:IUzR8.19786$Hj3....@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
>>
>> "John Olive" <val...@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
>> news:Y1tR8.349899$o66.9...@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>> > A clutch replacement on a R1100 engine is certainly not a backyard job.
>>
>> Very true - especially for the mechanically ignorant (this means me)
>>
> A backyard Sir? I think not. Especially not for the customer who has just
> paid a fat wad for the pleasure of being treated to the arrogant disdain
> that only the best BMW dealers have fully mastered.
Hahahah, oh what an excellent post, satire and sarcasm blended in the
finest tradition :)
Now I'm not criticising BMW or their bikes, because I've never owned
one, so there is not much point flaming me :)
I searched the net over a few months looking for a bike to ride round
Oz, and although I rode a R1100rs and loved it in 1995, the BMW owner
reports on the net (Boxers) was generally so scathing of the
reliability of these bikes that I soon lost all interest.
The 650GS I rode was a *heap* of fun, and the owner reports had far
less problems, but the dreaded surging daemon does still exist on the
odd GS.
In the end I settled on a ST1100 (not yet purchased) as the on line
owner reports had one of the lowest incidences of unreliability of all
the makes/models I researched.
As a matter of interest my Blade has 57,000 kilometers on it, has had
the bejesus thrashed out of it by all three owners, and apart from a
healthy diet of tyres, *nothing* has gone wrong with it, it doesnt leak
or use oil, it still gets 52MPG on a country run (250km per tank before
reserve) and still does 170 kph in 2nd gear :)
Terry
Honda CBR900RR
--
Kind Regards from Terry
My Desktop is powered by GNU/LinuX, Sorcerer kernel 2.4.17
Free Micro burner: http://w3w.arafuraconnect.com.au/~tp/burn.html
** Linux Registration Number: 103931, http://counter.li.org **
John Olive
"sam" <za...@sgi.net> wrote in message
news:uhi6p6d...@corp.supernews.com...
> Hard to believe a modern company
> could make motorcycles with so many problems.
Bwaaahahahahahah!
Gar. Me t00 ... I saw a huge air-cooled V-twin on the back of a truck
recently, either an auxilliary pump engine or maybe I'm wrong
and it was a compressor ... anyway, looked like it would
make a great Dumb Project Bike motor!
------sharks
Another hole in the BMW salesman's integrity hat. I'd seen reports like that
but that was years back, so I thought they were outdated because at the time
I was trying to find a new one (later found I couldn't afford to buy new).
Curiouser and curiouser. Hmmm, I'm having less and less doubt each day this
continues I am doing the right thing taking up this issue.
BUMMER - err Bimmer!
Jim
"Terry Por...@gronk.porter.net" <tjpo...@gronk.porter.net> wrote in message
news:slrnahikf9....@gronk.porter.net...
Conehead
(not Matt)
Hard to believe a modern company claiming to be a prestige manufacturer
would allow so many problems to occur. They sure as hell want you to pay for
the quality - why shouldn't we expect it?
> The K's seem to get good reports, but the oilhead R's....
>
> I now have a Honda ST1100 (Pan to you Euro's)
> and haven't fixed anything yet.
>
And to think I first looked at them before going to the BMW....
All that aside, Jim, when I got rid of the R1100RT at 80,000km, I had no
hesitation in getting an R1150GS to replace it.
Just because a seal was poorly made doesn't mean a whole class of bike is no
good. The only throuble I've had with the new bike (12,000km in four
months) is a rear shocker with seems to have de-gassed itself. It was
replaced under warranty without any problems at all.
Elsewhere in this thread people are suggesting ST1100's are comparable to,
or better than the R11 tourers. They're dreaming.
Conehead
(not Matt)
That of course is a matter of opinion ;-)
> Elsewhere in this thread people are suggesting ST1100's are comparable to,
> or better than the R11 tourers. They're dreaming.
Speaking as someone who has owned BMW's and Hondas, and doesn't currently
own either (fence sitting again ;-).... the ST1100 feels like what BMW
_should_ have built for thier 4 cylinder motor! It feels like a 4 cylinder
version of a BMW motor. People really are splitting hairs here... either
will do the job :-)
Geoff and Jodie
mike
0-000000000000000000000000000000000000000
> "CarSalesman" <nik...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:afbc8q$cr0pm$1...@ID-120232.news.dfncis.de...
> > I had the same thing happen on a 1997 R1100R.
> > 13,000 miles and a new clutch - leaking seal.
> > I paid for it. Hard to believe a modern company
> > could make motorcycles with so many problems.
>
> Hard to believe a modern company claiming to be a prestige manufacturer
> would allow so many problems to occur. They sure as hell want you to pay for
> the quality - why shouldn't we expect it?
After I bought my R1100GS, I got a video tape from BMW which was all
about how they build BMW cars. There was a big focus on quality
assurance throughout the manufacturing process. I htought it was a
recruiting tape; when It was finished I thought, okay. I want the job.
Id really like to work at BMW in QA ... I'd love to kick some engineer
butt over there. They're a little too arrogane for our own good.
--
Timberwoof <timberwoof at infernosoft dot com>
http://www.infernosoft.com/timberwoof/motorcycle/index.html
a motorcycle faq: http://www.infernosoft.com/timberwoof/motorcycle/faq.shtml
"Timberwoof" <timberw...@infernosoft.com> wrote in message
news:timberwoof.spam-C5...@typhoon.sonic.net...
Indeed. The Pan is a superlative machine - beats BMW in some key areas,
and is beaten bby BMW in others. As you say, it's hair-splitting.
> All that aside, Jim, when I got rid of the R1100RT at 80,000km, I had no
> hesitation in getting an R1150GS to replace it.
> Just because a seal was poorly made doesn't mean a whole class of bike is no
> good. The only throuble I've had with the new bike (12,000km in four
> months) is a rear shocker with seems to have de-gassed itself. It was
> replaced under warranty without any problems at all.
>
> Elsewhere in this thread people are suggesting ST1100's are comparable to,
> or better than the R11 tourers. They're dreaming.
Better is such a ambiguous word don't you think ?
From my point of view the BMW has a lot of *character* and I do love
the design, however the ST is just a lot more reliable, and probably
boring character wise, just like my Blade.
> Hmmm - right about now the ST I was considering is looking the goods. Worse
> luck. You know, when I brought up the ST's reliability to the BMW salesguy
> he actually told me the opposite to what you tell me here now, and yet I
> have to say at the very first stage of looking for a bike this time I was
> strongly considering one.
Just search thru all the owner reports on :-
http://www.micapeak.com/reg/bikes/
And compare the ST to the Boxers, then decide for yourself :)
>
> Another hole in the BMW salesman's integrity hat. I'd seen reports like that
> but that was years back, so I thought they were outdated because at the time
> I was trying to find a new one (later found I couldn't afford to buy new).
> Curiouser and curiouser. Hmmm, I'm having less and less doubt each day this
> continues I am doing the right thing taking up this issue.
>
> BUMMER - err Bimmer!
>
> Jim
Personally I'd *love* a *reliable* R1100RS, as I really like the
simple Boxer design (no EFI thanks) and I like the way they handle.
By comparison the ST is *boring*, but I don't want any mechanical
troubles and so its the ST for me.
> Better is such a ambiguous word don't you think ?
No. It means "better."
> From my point of view the BMW has a lot of *character*
from mine too
>and I do love the design,
me too
however the ST is just a lot more reliable,
the comparative statistics are posted somewhere, presumably?
> and probably boring character wise, just like my Blade.
Agreed. Are you making a point here?
Clem, this prick's doing it again!
Conehead
(not Matt)
I had thought that maybe the bike had been in an accident that damaged
the bell housing but there is no apparent damage. I suppose it is
possible that the alignment is so critical that previous tests have
missed the problem but I am not convinced. Maybe the bell housing is a
bit like the wheel rims and you suddenly find it bent without knowing
what caused it.
I've heard that this was a problem with the early model R1100 bikes, and
there was an official recall from BMWNA about it.
You should check the IBMWR site (http://www.ibmwr.org) and look in the
archives. Also check out
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/r1100_faq.shtml#clutch%20free%20play
though it refers to the very first oilheads.
-B
--
Brandon High
'98 Kawasaki ZX-7R "Wasabi", '98 Kawasaki EX500 "Harlot", 94 BMW K75S "Brick"
> "Terry Por...@gronk.porter.net" <tjpo...@gronk.porter.net> wrote in message
> news:slrnahlg0f....@gronk.porter.net...
>> conehead wrote:
>> > Elsewhere in this thread people are suggesting ST1100's are comparable
> to,
>> > or better than the R11 tourers. They're dreaming.
>>
>
>> Better is such a ambiguous word don't you think ?
>
> No. It means "better."
"Better" means what the writer wants it to mean, nothing more.
It's an emotive term and no use in a debate.
Get specific, or get lost pal.
>
>> From my point of view the BMW has a lot of *character*
>
> from mine too
>
>>and I do love the design,
>
> me too
>
> however the ST is just a lot more reliable,
>
> the comparative statistics are posted somewhere, presumably?
Don't presume, it only makes you look like an ass.
Not that I know of, I did my own research, why don't you ?
>
>> and probably boring character wise, just like my Blade.
>
> Agreed. Are you making a point here?
Sure.
>
> Clem, this prick's doing it again!
Do *you* have a point ?
"Terry Por...@gronk.porter.net" wrote:
>
> threw some tea leaves on the floor and this is what they wrote:
>
About time for less offence...
> >> Better is such a ambiguous word don't you think ?
> >
> > No. It means "better."
>
> "Better" means what the writer wants it to mean, nothing more.
> It's an emotive term and no use in a debate.
>
> Get specific, or get lost pal.
>
Ahh... End of further eductation of Terry. Terry - go read some books.
If you have nothing constructive to add Frank, say nothing. BMW use
their own methods which vary a lot from other manufacturers, EFI is not
a design written from a single textbook, only a first year student
would assume that.
Please remember I replied to a poster who owns a BMW R series and who
asked for help. If you have an argument to make, make it, don't be a
jerk and *suggest* I read some books.
Take a look at my site and *read* my work before you assume I don't
know what I'm talking about, unless of course you just want to be
killfiled ?
In other words, if you intend to have any dialogue with me, smarten up
and find some manners Frank.
Did that - thanks Brandon IBMWR is a great resource :-)
Don't suppose you'd know where I can find the recall notice on the 'net?
Jim
No sorry. You could join the mailing list and ask, but beware - it's
pretty high traffic.
-B
--
Brandon High
'98 Kawi ZX-7R "Wasabi", '98 Kawi EX500 "Harlot", '94 BMW K75s "Brick"
"The hottest places in Hell are reserved for those who, in times of moral
crisis, preserved their neutrality." -- Dante
Cheers
Jim
there other lists with a tighter focus and less traffic, one of then is
bound to suit.
See http://www.micapeak.com/
go to the left colum - mailing lists...
If you get news about a recall though and can provide a copy of the notice
(or even the Service Bulletin) let me know :-)
Cheers
Jim
"GaryG" <g.g...@nothis.btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:agd4fg$gcm$1...@venus.btinternet.com...
>"GaryG" <g.g...@nothis.btinternet.com> wrote in message
>news:agd4fg$gcm$1...@venus.btinternet.com...
>> I believe there is a problem with warped housings.
>> There may even be a recall notice.
>> This was particulary evident on the Ks (75s?)
>Nope - turns out though there was a service bulletin for the BMW techs about
>it (from what I hear) - was a poorly fitted circlip.
the warped housings were apparently a problem with certain early K bikes,
per IBMWR.org folklore, happened in shipping to the US, where they were
tied down too tightly to the shipping pallets, and if the pallet was
slammed hard on the dock when loading/unloading, the whole tranny housing
got subtly deformed, causing premature final drive shaft failures. The
only cure is to replace the whole tranny housing.
Then, also per IBMWR folklore, monolever K bikes require driveshaft spline
lubrication at regular intervals (every 10K miles or 20K miles or
annually, depending on who you listen to) or they are subject to an
expensive failure. The later paralever K bikes and R1100 bikes don't
need this.
this is completely seperate from the input shaft seal circlip issue which
affected a significant percentage of ~1996 R1100 bikes (perhaps 20-30% by
some informal surveys), causing clutch failures around 20,000 miles. I
had this happen to me, luckily, I had an extended warranty that grudgingly
covered the repairs. My symptoms were clutch slippage at full throttle
at 5000rpm in 5th. There was a seperate input shaft seal problem that
affected a smaller number of earlier R1100 bikes, similar symptoms.
You sure you don't have my bike there? 1996, 26000km, 5th gear, open
throttle......
Jim
I dunno, is it a red R1100RS ? :D
Just run in.
Al
"conehead" <gmi...@panties.hn.ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:asVW8.1317$Cq.5...@ozemail.com.au...
: This must be a troll. No BMW owner has a six-year-old bike with only
: 26,000kms on it.
: Sure it's not a harley after its third engine rebuild? Or a Ducati on its
: fourth?
:
: Conehead
: Always smiling, just like a retard
:
: "John R Pierce" <sp...@is.invalid> wrote in message
: news:6fqniuon8fe3kkuve...@news.lmi.net...
: > >You sure you don't have my bike there? 1996, 26000km, 5th gear, open
: >
: >
: >
:
:
Conehead
Always smiling, just like a retard
"John R Pierce" <sp...@is.invalid> wrote in message
news:6fqniuon8fe3kkuve...@news.lmi.net...
>This must be a troll. No BMW owner has a six-year-old bike with only
>26,000kms on it.
well, I bought my 96 R1100RS in 2000 w/ 10000 miles (about 16000km?).
previous (original) owner had bought it as a demo with 6000 miles
(10000km) already it, then put 4000m (6600km) in one big roadtrip, then
parked it.
I've been doing my best to restore things to their proper state, but what
with job and family, I've only managed to add about 30,000 miles (50000km)
to the clock in the last 2 years. and today, I had to drive our spare
v*lv* as I had to get it to a shop for a bodywork estimate ;-/ white
metal box with a broken A/C, yuck.
--
Conehead
Always smiling, just like a retard
"Alan Pennykid" <alan.p...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:mQVW8.32249$Hj3....@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
No troll - this is the real deal. IOW, don't put money on it - you'll lose
:-)
Jim
1996 BMW R1100RT, 26004km (genuine)
You say that like you think it's a good thing... mate he was "dissing"
you - what sort of a pathetic BMW rider are you if you haven't done that
in the first year - let alone in nearly 7...
Buy a Ducati...
JL
(offending the universe, one at a time)
Probably a BMW rider with employment and family responsibility that require
most of his time? One rides when he/she can, other demands on your time
may be more important.
Bah ! Mealy mouthed excuses ! Don't buy one if you don't intend riding
it.
If you want to own a bike but don't want to ride, get a Harley, they're
good for polishing* I mean you don't buy a BMW for the aesthetic
pleasure of looking at it in the garage now do you ? It's a wonderful
example of function over form.
JL
*Don't stop, don't go, don't turn, gotta be good for something.
--
Al
BMW Club: www.users.bigpond.com/pennykid
My own site: www.users.bigpond.com/pennykid/sidecar
So you think you are strong because you can survive the soft cushions.
Well, we shall see. Biggles! Put her in the Comfy Chair!
"John Littler" <johnl...@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:3D3144C3...@iprimus.com.au...
John Olive
In his new Harley Jeans
"Alan Pennykid" <alan.p...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:ozbY8.34705$Hj3.1...@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
When are you getting the BMW Lederhosen?
--
Al
BMW Club: www.users.bigpond.com/pennykid
My own site: www.users.bigpond.com/pennykid/sidecar
So you think you are strong because you can survive the soft cushions.
Well, we shall see. Biggles! Put her in the Comfy Chair!
"John Olive" <jol...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:1ncY8.34736$Hj3.1...@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
: Full speed ahead Damm the torpedoes.
: >
: >
:
:
JL
(reply snipped to aus.moto only)
Now that'd be worth paying money NOT to see !!
JL
> If you want to own a bike but don't want to ride, get a Harley,
> they're good for polishing* I mean you don't buy a BMW for the
> aesthetic pleasure of looking at it in the garage now do you ? It's a
> wonderful example of function over form.
I have a LOT more miles on my Harley-Davidson than on my BMW.
>I'll start worrying when you buy the HD chaps.
>
>When are you getting the BMW Lederhosen?
or maybe
<http://www.bmw-riders-apparel.com/product_display.asp?p=Savanna+2&i=/IMG/IMG/02%5FSavanna%2Ejpg?
?
--
Al
BMW Club: www.users.bigpond.com/pennykid
My own site: www.users.bigpond.com/pennykid/sidecar
So you think you are strong because you can survive the soft cushions.
Well, we shall see. Biggles! Put her in the Comfy Chair!
"John R Pierce" <sp...@is.invalid> wrote in message
news:4ae3jusj0tph8mcj3...@news.lmi.net...
: On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 20:42:46 +1000, "Alan Pennykid"
: <alan.p...@bigpond.com> wrote:
:
: >I'll start worrying when you buy the HD chaps.
: >
: >When are you getting the BMW Lederhosen?
:
:
<http://www.bmw-riders-apparel.com/2002_Products.asp?c=Riding+Gear%3A+Leathe
r+Suits&sc1=Leather+Suits&m1=MC%2DRiders&c1=Riding+Gear&type=&r1=ALL&md=&a1=
ON&d1=ON&i1=ON&p1=1&Bookmark=1>
: ?
:
: or maybe
:
<http://www.bmw-riders-apparel.com/product_display.asp?p=Savanna+2&i=/IMG/IM
G/02%5FSavanna%2Ejpg?
: ?
:
: