Peach leaf curl - copper sulfate?
Travis Morien
I bought a couple of trees over the weekend, a nectarine and a peach.
I intend to use Copper Sulfate to kill the fungus before budburst.
Any recommendations on dosage and how many times to spray?
Travis
Barrie Mather
I tried once at the end of leaf-fall and once at budburst. It wasn't
enough. On the other hand, moving the tree uphill about 10- 15 feet
helped a lot.
Barrie
Macca
Cut some gum tree branches and wedge into the branches of the peach or
nectarine. Result - no curly leaf that season.
Macca
On 12 Jul 2000 01:10:50 GMT, Travis Morien
John Eiseman
or you will burn the plants. Make 'Bordeaux' mixture--copper
sulphate+calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime).
First spray late winter--ratio of 100g:100g:10litres water.
You must make a second application at early bud movement at the lower rate
of--60g copper:80g lime:10 litres water.
If you have had problems in the past you should have a clean up spray in
late autumn at the lower rate--when 50-80% of the leaves have fallen--the
fungus over-winters on petiole scars and other nooks and crannies though bud
scales are the most damaging--hence the second spray when bud movement has
commenced.
Bordeaux mix will clog your sprayer unless mixed well--secret is mix copper
first--hot water helps--then add lime already dissolved in a smaller
proportion of your water--watch out for lumps--wash out your sprayer
straight away. Agitate (shake) while using --the copper will tend to come
out of solution at the higher rate. Measure carefully as too high a rate of
copper will burn the plants.
Despite the hassle it is the best and safest product--only copper
application accepted in the Organic standards.
John
Higham
> (snip)If you have had problems in the past you should have a clean up spray
> in
> late autumn at the lower rate--when 50-80% of the leaves have fallen--(snip)
Everything I've ever seen or read on Bordeaux says never to spray on plants with
leaves.
Why would this be so and what is the effect of spraying on leaves?
Fran
John Eiseman
senescence--the copper will speed up leaf fall. The point is to cover the
point of leaf abscission with a protectant. Commercial growers would
probably spray twice--once at about 50% leaf fall and again at about
80-100%. In a home garden though how much spraying do you want to do? How
much copper do you want in your soil? High copper is toxic to soil fauna
including earthworms so judicious use is called for in my view (and the
organic organisations).
If the late winter/early spring applications are effective than the leaf
drop sprays are less essential--the control is more difficult where there
has been a build up of disease through poor management over a number of
seasons.
John
Higham
> (snip)-the control is more difficult where there
> has been a build up of disease through poor management over a number of
> seasons.
>
> John
Thanks for the answer John - I understand now.
The reason why I'm asking is because I'm about to try Bordeaux for the first
time as I have a rather sick looking flowering peach. Knowing about the
negative aspects of the copper I've been trying to garner as much infomation
as possible before taking action.
Although this tree one of the 'ornamental' flowering peaches that is a total
blob of colour in Spring, we have also found that it produces superb peaches.
Totally green and unappealing in appearance but with superb white flesh and
totally delicious.
Thanks again.
Fran
John Eiseman
Stonefruit are very susceptible to bacterial canker--endemic--most live with
a background level of infection--however with age BC will debilitate many.
Big problem in cherry trees of any age. Not much you can do except good
hygiene and care with time and practices re pruning. Copper will help limit
infection but has no value once infected. Bacterial canker could well be
your problem. Suggest you read Judy McMaugh's book for symptoms and
practices to limit its impact. If badly infected you have limited
options--live with it or start with a new tree. The latter could involve
budding from your existing tree but the buds would need to come from an
actively growing shoot (and this is still problematic).
I had a home garden Red Haven (I think) which had wonderful fruit despite
canker present --over time it become run down despite my efforts in various
ways to re-vitalise it. In the end Stihl pruning solved the problem and my
home garden source of peaches.
John
Higham
Thanks for the info. I've ignored this poor tree for too long because of other
priorities in such a big garden so it has never been fed, pruned or sprayed. I
will now try to do the right thing by it and do some reading on BC.
The tree, which is less than 2 metres tall (typical small flowering peach shape)
is exuding some sap and is generally very scurffy looking. I've cleaned off the
branches as well as I have been able and have cleared out under it and given it
a good mulching with composted stable manure and then mulched over the top of
that with pea straw. As spring approaches I was planning to spray it with
Bordeaux and then once growth starts applying seaweed and fish emulsion at
ground level.
Some offspring have grown from seed in the vege garden which is nearby and they
also have been flowering well so once they pass the flowering test I've moved
them to various other parts of the garden. I suppose I could try grafting from
the old tree onto the newer babies.
Do you have any other suggestions that might help?
TIA
Fran
lindasp...@gmail.com
I have a peach tree and i have been told it as peach curl and canker disease. Any advice what to buy to get my tree healthy and to produce peaches. Thankyou.
Linda
Bloke Down The Pub
<lindasp...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7da2eb5e-3710-4d0a...@googlegroups.com...
buds are opening its too late for this year as they need to be sprayed while
they are dormant. and the canker is best pruned out and burnt.
Mike