Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
1978 280e Mercedes K JetTronic cold start system - high warm up idle
92 views
Skip to first unread message
jjb...@gmail.com
Apr 12, 2017, 4:09:18 AM4/12/17
to
Hello posting back about the Mercedes still having some problems.
It idles too high on warmup till the thermostat opens then is slows to normal.
I have the manual for the 280e here which only basically covers the K JetTronic system.
However considering the evidence displayed by the cars running conditions
it can only be the cold start sensor system.
I have looked at electric diagrams from the manual and it lists that a Thermal Time switch is connected to a cold start valve.
I can not find any testing information on the cold start sensor (Thermal Time Switch)
Is it likely to be this part because it is a pricey one.
I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
Attention Xeno
Do you have information or advise
It idles too high on warmup till the thermostat opens then is slows to normal.
I have the manual for the 280e here which only basically covers the K JetTronic system.
However considering the evidence displayed by the cars running conditions
it can only be the cold start sensor system.
I have looked at electric diagrams from the manual and it lists that a Thermal Time switch is connected to a cold start valve.
I can not find any testing information on the cold start sensor (Thermal Time Switch)
Is it likely to be this part because it is a pricey one.
I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
Attention Xeno
Do you have information or advise
D Walford
Apr 12, 2017, 5:36:43 AM4/12/17
to
On 12/4/17 6:09 pm, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hello posting back about the Mercedes still having some problems.
>
> It idles too high on warmup till the thermostat opens then is slows to normal.
> I have the manual for the 280e here which only basically covers the K JetTronic system.
> However considering the evidence displayed by the cars running conditions
> it can only be the cold start sensor system.
> I have looked at electric diagrams from the manual and it lists that a Thermal Time switch is connected to a cold start valve.
>
> I can not find any testing information on the cold start sensor (Thermal Time Switch)
Have you priced the part new or SH?
> Hello posting back about the Mercedes still having some problems.
>
> It idles too high on warmup till the thermostat opens then is slows to normal.
> I have the manual for the 280e here which only basically covers the K JetTronic system.
> However considering the evidence displayed by the cars running conditions
> it can only be the cold start sensor system.
> I have looked at electric diagrams from the manual and it lists that a Thermal Time switch is connected to a cold start valve.
>
> I can not find any testing information on the cold start sensor (Thermal Time Switch)
The fact that the engine idles normally once its fully warmed up suggest
that the sensor isn't completely dead, just removing cleaning and
refitting the sensor might help if its a bit corroded where the coolant
touches it plus it needs a good earth, removing and refitting might
improve the earthing if its a single wire sensor.
>
> Is it likely to be this part because it is a pricey one.
>
> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
>
How high is "too high"?
> Is it likely to be this part because it is a pricey one.
>
> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
>
--
Daryl
jjb...@gmail.com
Apr 12, 2017, 5:48:06 AM4/12/17
to
http://www.bosch-classic.com/en/internet/bosch_classic/produkte/motor_1/thermozeitschalter/thermozeitschalter___mit_teaser_1.html
Faulty cold start valve?
It dose say however in addition
Quote
When the engine is cold the thermo-time switch is closed and therefore the cold start valve injects additional fuel. But when the motor is already warm when starting it the switch is opened - no additional fuel is injected.
In addition to that the maximum injection time is limited. Otherwise the fuel mixture would enrich too much and the engine would be flooded.
end quote
jjb...@gmail.com
Apr 12, 2017, 5:52:12 AM4/12/17
to
On Wednesday, April 12, 2017 at 7:36:43 PM UTC+10, D Walford wrote:
I have searched high and low for manifold leaks disconnected all auxiliary vacuum systems
>
> --
> Daryl
D Walford
Apr 12, 2017, 6:13:07 AM4/12/17
to
Has something changed or has it always done it?
You really need to find what system increases the rpm when cold, I
suspect there is some type of actuator on the throttle body controlled
by the sensor that opens the throttle, the problem may be the actuator
not the sensor, its very likely to be adjustable.
Could also be an air bleed on the throttle body also controlled by the
sensor, some Toyota engines I've worked on controlled cold idle that way
so I'd be looking in the area of the throttle body.
--
Daryl
Noddy
Apr 12, 2017, 6:51:39 AM4/12/17
to
On 12/04/17 6:09 PM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
What RPM is it doing, and what is it *supposed* to be doing?
> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
> Attention Xeno
>
> Do you have information or advise
Oh yeah, he'll have stacks. None of it will be relevant though :)
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
Noddy
Apr 12, 2017, 6:54:50 AM4/12/17
to
On 12/04/17 7:52 PM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
>>>
>>
>> How high is "too high"?
>>
> 2000-3000rpm
2000 to 3000rpm?
>>> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
>>>
>>
>> How high is "too high"?
>>
> 2000-3000rpm
There's a huge gap in there. Have you measured it or are you just
guessing. What is it *supposed* to be cold start idling at?
> I have searched high and low for manifold leaks disconnected all auxiliary vacuum systems
once the engine warms up.
Not unless the cold start circuit is exposing the leak.
jjb...@gmail.com
Apr 12, 2017, 7:21:00 AM4/12/17
to
On Wednesday, April 12, 2017 at 8:13:07 PM UTC+10, D Walford wrote:
> On 12/4/17 7:52 pm, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Wednesday, April 12, 2017 at 7:36:43 PM UTC+10, D Walford wrote:
> >> On 12/4/17 6:09 pm, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hello posting back about the Mercedes still having some problems.
> >>>
> >>> It idles too high on warmup till the thermostat opens then is slows to normal.
> >>> I have the manual for the 280e here which only basically covers the K JetTronic system.
> >>> However considering the evidence displayed by the cars running conditions
> >>> it can only be the cold start sensor system.
> >>> I have looked at electric diagrams from the manual and it lists that a Thermal Time switch is connected to a cold start valve.
> >>>
> >>> I can not find any testing information on the cold start sensor (Thermal Time Switch)
> >>
> >> Have you priced the part new or SH?
> >> The fact that the engine idles normally once its fully warmed up suggest
> >> that the sensor isn't completely dead, just removing cleaning and
> >> refitting the sensor might help if its a bit corroded where the coolant
> >> touches it plus it needs a good earth, removing and refitting might
> >> improve the earthing if its a single wire sensor.
> >>>
> >>> Is it likely to be this part because it is a pricey one.
> >>>
> >>> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
> >>>
> >>
> >> How high is "too high"?
> >>
> > 2000-3000rpm
> > I have searched high and low for manifold leaks disconnected all auxiliary vacuum systems
> >
>
> How long does it take to warm up and the idle to return to normal?
to me it seems like 30 minutes but really about 10-15 minutes.
> On 12/4/17 7:52 pm, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Wednesday, April 12, 2017 at 7:36:43 PM UTC+10, D Walford wrote:
> >> On 12/4/17 6:09 pm, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hello posting back about the Mercedes still having some problems.
> >>>
> >>> It idles too high on warmup till the thermostat opens then is slows to normal.
> >>> I have the manual for the 280e here which only basically covers the K JetTronic system.
> >>> However considering the evidence displayed by the cars running conditions
> >>> it can only be the cold start sensor system.
> >>> I have looked at electric diagrams from the manual and it lists that a Thermal Time switch is connected to a cold start valve.
> >>>
> >>> I can not find any testing information on the cold start sensor (Thermal Time Switch)
> >>
> >> Have you priced the part new or SH?
> >> The fact that the engine idles normally once its fully warmed up suggest
> >> that the sensor isn't completely dead, just removing cleaning and
> >> refitting the sensor might help if its a bit corroded where the coolant
> >> touches it plus it needs a good earth, removing and refitting might
> >> improve the earthing if its a single wire sensor.
> >>>
> >>> Is it likely to be this part because it is a pricey one.
> >>>
> >>> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
> >>>
> >>
> >> How high is "too high"?
> >>
> > 2000-3000rpm
> > I have searched high and low for manifold leaks disconnected all auxiliary vacuum systems
> >
>
> How long does it take to warm up and the idle to return to normal?
as soon as the thermostat floods the radiator it idles down.
> Has something changed or has it always done it?
> You really need to find what system increases the rpm when cold, I
> suspect there is some type of actuator on the throttle body controlled
> by the sensor that opens the throttle, the problem may be the actuator
> not the sensor, its very likely to be adjustable.
which is an actuator.
I have hooked it up it broken before this.
jjb...@gmail.com
Apr 12, 2017, 7:35:19 AM4/12/17
to
On Wednesday, April 12, 2017 at 8:54:50 PM UTC+10, Noddy wrote:
> On 12/04/17 7:52 PM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> >>> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
> >>>
> >>
> >> How high is "too high"?
> >>
> > 2000-3000rpm
>
> 2000 to 3000rpm?
>
> There's a huge gap in there. Have you measured it or are you just
> guessing. What is it *supposed* to be cold start idling at?
It is supposed to idle at 800rpm in neutral.
> On 12/04/17 7:52 PM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> >>> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits warming up.
> >>>
> >>
> >> How high is "too high"?
> >>
> > 2000-3000rpm
>
> 2000 to 3000rpm?
>
> There's a huge gap in there. Have you measured it or are you just
> guessing. What is it *supposed* to be cold start idling at?
Which it sounds right when it is warmed up.
But it sounds like 150 horses when it is warming up and if one puts it in drive its almost going to leap off the ground for 15 minutes until the temp gauge goes up.
I am scared to stand next the the engine during warmup and i have been on a Boeing 747
I have a 1983 280se here which has the similar high idle but it is no where near as high as the 1978 but it dose race a little.
>
> > I have searched high and low for manifold leaks disconnected all auxiliary vacuum systems
>
> If it's got a vacuum leak it won't suddenly go back to normal idle rpm
> once the engine warms up.
>
> Not unless the cold start circuit is exposing the leak.
>
Xeno
Apr 12, 2017, 8:11:39 AM4/12/17
to
You cannot troubleshoot a system, any system, if you do not have at the
very least an overview of system operation.
For a start, the K Jetronic system is a *mechanical* fuel injection
system. I'm sure I mentioned that in a past post? It does *not have
sensors* in the same manner as later electronic fuel injection systems
like the LE Jetronics, Motronics and the like.
The K Jetronic *does not use sensors* to determine coolant temperature,
air temperature, etc. Instead it uses electrically heated bimetal
springs that also adopt engine heat to effect their operation. It is a
very simple system - as long as you know what each component does and
how it fits into the overall system.
For cold start, there are 3 devices involved. Two of these devices are
to do with cold start mixture adaptation, the third deals with cold idle
mixture *quantity*.
The first, the start valve, is a solenoid operated fuel injector and
operates in conjunction with the thermo-time switch. It is activated
electrically at initial startup and the duration of its operation is
limited by the thermo-time switch. The thermo-time switch, as the name
suggests, is not a sensor per se but a control device. It *electrically*
limits the time the start valve is in operation. Typically this is 8
seconds or less. Due to the mounting location of the thermo-time switch,
it is able to adopt engine heat. Since the thermo-time switch is mounted
close to engine heat sources, it also has the ability to *prevent* start
valve operation if the engine is being started when already warmed up.
This is unlikely to be your problem and it can be easily disabled for
diagnosis by removing the feed connector plug to the start valve. The
thermo-time switch provides a ground path for the cold start injector
when cold. It should have a resistance between one of the terminals and
the body of the switch when hot or cold. The other terminal should show
no resistance to ground when cold. When hot, the terminal that showed no
resistance should now show infinite resistance. It is, after all, just
switching the cold start injector off.
The next device is the warm-up regulator. This device is fitted in such
a manner that it adopts the engine temperature. Like the thermo-time
switch, it contains a bimetal spring that reacts to engine temperature.
When cold, the bimetal spring acts in opposition to the valve spring
thereby *reducing* control pressure thereby increasing injector flow
thus provising mixture enrichment. The bimetal spring is heated
electrically and by engine heat conduction and will increase control
pressure as the engine warms up. As with the thermo-time switch, it
adopts engine heat and will render mixture enrichment inoperative on a
warm engine. Checking this device will require a fuel pressure test.
*Control pressure* should be ~7psi at cold start and ~55psi with the
engine warmed up. These are *generic* pressures and they may be
different depending on the vehicle to which the system is fitted. At the
very least, they will provide you with a starting point. Issues here
would, I expect, show up primarily as fuel-air mixture issues - too rich
(hunting) or too lean (stumble) - and display symptoms other than a very
fast cold idle.
The auxilliary air device is yet another valve controlled by a bimetal
spring. This device, when cold, allows extra air to bypass the throttle
plate thus allowing a faster idle. This device does not influence the
cold start fuel mixture as the extra air it provides is measured by the
air flow sensor plate and is only responsible for allowing *more* air
fuel mixture to enter the engine to provide a stable cold idle. Again,
as with the previous two devices, this device adopts engine heat
preventing operation when the engine is warmed up. You can eliminate
this device quite easily by pinching off the downstream air hose. The
engine speed should drop a small amount. Since your engine is idling at
2-3k when cold, a drop to normal idle (or lower than normal) when the
downstream hose is pinched off indicates an issue with this device or
the upstream air supply (inlet air hose leak?) Note, the electrical side
of this device is there purely to control device activation time before
cut-off. Disconnecting the wiring plug will only lengthen activation time.
It's been a very, very long time since I've had anything to do with one
of these systems, probably in the order of 40-45 years but I'd be
initially checking out the auxilliary air device, given the symptoms you
describe, *after* ensuring that the throttle plate is closing the
correct amount at idle. I no longer have diagnosis info on these
systems, having turfed it out long ago, so all specs are based on my
memory of the K-Jetronic system not to forget my Bosch K-Jetronic
technical instruction book.
HTH
--
Xeno
Xeno
Apr 12, 2017, 8:19:54 AM4/12/17
to
> You really need to find what system increases the rpm when cold, I
> suspect there is some type of actuator on the throttle body controlled
> by the sensor that opens the throttle, the problem may be the actuator
> not the sensor, its very likely to be adjustable.
> Could also be an air bleed on the throttle body also controlled by the
> sensor,
> some Toyota engines I've worked on controlled cold idle that way
> so I'd be looking in the area of the throttle body.
--
Xeno
Xeno
Apr 12, 2017, 8:59:22 AM4/12/17
to
On 12/04/2017 8:53 PM, Noddy wrote:
> On 12/04/17 6:09 PM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits
>> warming up.
>
> What RPM is it doing, and what is it *supposed* to be doing?
It's supposed to be *fast idling*, not revving its ring off.
> On 12/04/17 6:09 PM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I can not use the car without a fix as it nearly rattles to bits
>> warming up.
>
> What RPM is it doing, and what is it *supposed* to be doing?
Don't you get that?
>
>> Attention Xeno
>>
>> Do you have information or advise
>
> ROTFL :)
>
> Oh yeah, he'll have stacks. None of it will be relevant though :)
Like your step by step procedure in another post? How *relevant* was that?
>> Attention Xeno
>>
>> Do you have information or advise
>
> ROTFL :)
>
> Oh yeah, he'll have stacks. None of it will be relevant though :)
Sorry, I don't operate like you and that can only be a good thing.
I notice any advice, relevant or otherwise, you have offered on this
issue is, well, minimal to say the least.
--
Xeno
Noddy
Apr 12, 2017, 9:10:35 AM4/12/17
to
On 12/04/17 9:20 PM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>> How high is "too high"?
>>>>
>>> 2000-3000rpm
>>> I have searched high and low for manifold leaks disconnected all auxiliary vacuum systems
>>>
>>
>> How long does it take to warm up and the idle to return to normal?
> to me it seems like 30 minutes but really about 10-15 minutes.
> as soon as the thermostat floods the radiator it idles down.
>
>> Has something changed or has it always done it?
> It used to idle reasonably high yes however i have since replaced and blocked up allot of vacuum leaks now it is idling higher.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0A8sI6c_daE
>>>> How high is "too high"?
>>>>
>>> 2000-3000rpm
>>> I have searched high and low for manifold leaks disconnected all auxiliary vacuum systems
>>>
>>
>> How long does it take to warm up and the idle to return to normal?
> to me it seems like 30 minutes but really about 10-15 minutes.
> as soon as the thermostat floods the radiator it idles down.
>
>> Has something changed or has it always done it?
> It used to idle reasonably high yes however i have since replaced and blocked up allot of vacuum leaks now it is idling higher.
Noddy
Apr 12, 2017, 9:17:45 AM4/12/17
to
On 12/04/17 9:35 PM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
>> There's a huge gap in there. Have you measured it or are you just
>> guessing. What is it *supposed* to be cold start idling at?
>
> It is supposed to idle at 800rpm in neutral.
> Which it sounds right when it is warmed up.
> But it sounds like 150 horses when it is warming up and if one puts it in drive its almost going to leap off the ground for 15 minutes until the temp gauge goes up.
> I am scared to stand next the the engine during warmup and i have been on a Boeing 747
That's nice. Hope you enjoyed it.
>> There's a huge gap in there. Have you measured it or are you just
>> guessing. What is it *supposed* to be cold start idling at?
>
> It is supposed to idle at 800rpm in neutral.
> Which it sounds right when it is warmed up.
> But it sounds like 150 horses when it is warming up and if one puts it in drive its almost going to leap off the ground for 15 minutes until the temp gauge goes up.
> I am scared to stand next the the engine during warmup and i have been on a Boeing 747
> I have a 1983 280se here which has the similar high idle but it is no where near as high as the 1978 but it dose race a little.
>
>>
>>> I have searched high and low for manifold leaks disconnected all auxiliary vacuum systems
>>
>> If it's got a vacuum leak it won't suddenly go back to normal idle rpm
>> once the engine warms up.
>>
>> Not unless the cold start circuit is exposing the leak.
>>
> Valve Guides is my only real mechanical logical clue
brutally honest if that *is* your genuine opinion you're best off
leaving the repair work/maintenance of your cars to others who know what
they're doing.
I'm guessing that this unusually high idle issue only surfaced recently
right after you did something to the car. So, thinking backwards, try to
recall the last time the cold idle was working properly, and what you
did to the car that changed it.
Whatever it was, that is your problem.
D Walford
Apr 12, 2017, 10:01:58 AM4/12/17
to
found that that car has a "warm up regulator" and an "auxiliary air
valve" and both could cause his problem.
Someone on a MB forum suggested winding out the idle screw all the way
whilst counting the turns then winding it back in by the same amount of
turns which can free up the auxiliary air valve which are known to stick.
I know that some early EFI Toyota engines regulate their idle via an air
bleed on the throttle body so that's where I would be looking for the
auxiliary air valve.
--
Daryl
Noddy
Apr 12, 2017, 10:10:48 AM4/12/17
to
On 13/04/17 12:01 AM, D Walford wrote:
>> I'm guessing that this unusually high idle issue only surfaced recently
>> right after you did something to the car. So, thinking backwards, try to
>> recall the last time the cold idle was working properly, and what you
>> did to the car that changed it.
>>
>> Whatever it was, that is your problem.
>
>
> Don't think he looked too hard on the net for a solution, so far I've
> found that that car has a "warm up regulator" and an "auxiliary air
> valve" and both could cause his problem.
> Someone on a MB forum suggested winding out the idle screw all the way
> whilst counting the turns then winding it back in by the same amount of
> turns which can free up the auxiliary air valve which are known to stick.
> I know that some early EFI Toyota engines regulate their idle via an air
> bleed on the throttle body so that's where I would be looking for the
> auxiliary air valve.
Is this the "Jesse" bloke who used to post here from Tassie who made all
>> I'm guessing that this unusually high idle issue only surfaced recently
>> right after you did something to the car. So, thinking backwards, try to
>> recall the last time the cold idle was working properly, and what you
>> did to the car that changed it.
>>
>> Whatever it was, that is your problem.
>
>
> Don't think he looked too hard on the net for a solution, so far I've
> found that that car has a "warm up regulator" and an "auxiliary air
> valve" and both could cause his problem.
> Someone on a MB forum suggested winding out the idle screw all the way
> whilst counting the turns then winding it back in by the same amount of
> turns which can free up the auxiliary air valve which are known to stick.
> I know that some early EFI Toyota engines regulate their idle via an air
> bleed on the throttle body so that's where I would be looking for the
> auxiliary air valve.
kinds of ridiculous car and non car related claims?
D Walford
Apr 12, 2017, 10:31:08 AM4/12/17
to
--
Daryl
jjb...@gmail.com
Apr 14, 2017, 9:40:18 PM4/14/17
to
> For cold start, there are 3 devices involved. Two of these devices are
> to do with cold start mixture adaptation, the third deals with cold idle
> mixture *quantity*.
>
> The first, the start valve, is a solenoid operated fuel injector and
> operates in conjunction with the thermo-time switch. It is activated
> electrically at initial startup and the duration of its operation is
> limited by the thermo-time switch. The thermo-time switch, as the name
> suggests, is not a sensor per se but a control device. It *electrically*
> limits the time the start valve is in operation. Typically this is 8
> seconds or less. Due to the mounting location of the thermo-time switch,
> it is able to adopt engine heat. Since the thermo-time switch is mounted
> close to engine heat sources, it also has the ability to *prevent* start
> valve operation if the engine is being started when already warmed up.
> This is unlikely to be your problem and it can be easily disabled for
> diagnosis by removing the feed connector plug to the start valve. The
> thermo-time switch provides a ground path for the cold start injector
> when cold. It should have a resistance between one of the terminals and
> the body of the switch when hot or cold. The other terminal should show
> no resistance to ground when cold. When hot, the terminal that showed no
> resistance should now show infinite resistance. It is, after all, just
> switching the cold start injector off.
>
> The next device is the warm-up regulator. This device is fitted in such
> a manner that it adopts the engine temperature. Like the thermo-time
> switch, it contains a bimetal spring that reacts to engine temperature.
> When cold, the bimetal spring acts in opposition to the valve spring
> thereby *reducing* control pressure thereby increasing injector flow
> thus provising mixture enrichment. The bimetal spring is heated
> electrically and by engine heat conduction and will increase control
> pressure as the engine warms up. As with the thermo-time switch, it
> adopts engine heat and will render mixture enrichment inoperative on a
> warm engine. Checking this device will require a fuel pressure test.
> *Control pressure* should be ~7psi at cold start and ~55psi with the
> engine warmed up. These are *generic* pressures and they may be
> different depending on the vehicle to which the system is fitted. At the
> very least, they will provide you with a starting point. Issues here
> would, I expect, show up primarily as fuel-air mixture issues - too rich
> (hunting) or too lean (stumble) - and display symptoms other than a very
> fast cold idle.
>
Noddy
Apr 15, 2017, 1:35:19 AM4/15/17
to
On 15/04/17 11:40 AM, jjb...@gmail.com wrote:
>> It's been a very, very long time since I've had anything to do with one
>> of these systems, probably in the order of 40-45 years but I'd be
>> initially checking out the auxilliary air device, given the symptoms you
>> describe, *after* ensuring that the throttle plate is closing the
>> correct amount at idle. I no longer have diagnosis info on these
>> systems, having turfed it out long ago, so all specs are based on my
>> memory of the K-Jetronic system not to forget my Bosch K-Jetronic
>> technical instruction book.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> --
>>
>> Xeno
>
> Thank you very very helpful
Yeah, thank you Google. It's amazing how much of an expert it can make
>> It's been a very, very long time since I've had anything to do with one
>> of these systems, probably in the order of 40-45 years but I'd be
>> initially checking out the auxilliary air device, given the symptoms you
>> describe, *after* ensuring that the throttle plate is closing the
>> correct amount at idle. I no longer have diagnosis info on these
>> systems, having turfed it out long ago, so all specs are based on my
>> memory of the K-Jetronic system not to forget my Bosch K-Jetronic
>> technical instruction book.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> --
>>
>> Xeno
>
> Thank you very very helpful
you appear :)
Xeno
Apr 15, 2017, 3:26:25 AM4/15/17
to
help you. Even *with* Google's help, you still stuff up incredibly
badly. Recall, if you will, the great "CV straightens the steering"
debacle. LOL
For those of us in the know, a Bosch K-Jetronic Technical Instruction
Handbook. What it doesn't give is the diagnostic info. That I needed to
work out but with the system overview given by the handbook, that's no
real issue. I did mention the Bosch book in my post above. I have the
complete set with, I think, just one omission.
What motor mechanic training did give me Noddy is a distrust of memory.
Far better to find out rather than, as you do, try to remember or,
worse, guess. That leads me to the next thing that motor mechanic
training gave me - an ability to work a system out from given
information rather than make inferences - like the one you (incorrectly)
made with regard to CV Joints straightening the wheels.
--
Xeno
0 new messages