1994 Magna TR V6 auto idle problem
Paul Daniels
Lately I've been having strange problems with the car... it's fine
while cold, but as soon as I do a run of any more than a couple of km
the car refuses to idle, it just studders, drops and dies, very
traumatic especially when my wife drives the car, made worse by the
fact that it's an automatic (hard to keep the rpm up while waiting at
an intersection).
Secondly, though this may be unrelated, the battery just dropped
dead this morning, kaput, nothing, barely 8.5V across the terminals
with no load.
Thirdly, the return hose on the radiator gets really hot and under a
reasonable degree of pressure after just a couple of minutes driving
(though the temp gauge shows 'middle').
I've heard some people say it might be the idle-solenoid, dang
expensive things!
This car has only just clocked up 60,000km, sure hope it's not
falling apart on me already.
I took it to a service agent about 2 months ago because of a similar
incident (re the idle) after the car just abruptly died while driving
(yay automatics again!), I sort of limped home on that one and had the
fuel filter replaced at that point (though the agent said the flow was
'on the low side, but still within limits').
Hope someone can shed some light on this.
Aaron Miles
problems
just ask serialpest or Ozone1 they'll tell ya..
Sure you not driving a holden ?
thanks
Aaron
"Paul Daniels" <plda...@pldaniels.com> wrote in message
news:f68a1ec3.04012...@posting.google.com...
Jason James
You wouldn't think a fuel filter would manifest itself as being 'on the low
side' at idle where fuel demand is infintesimal compared to acceleration.
Sounds more like a IAC (idle air control) , idle-speed control or some gunk
in the throttle body where some sensors live or idle fuel mixture, an
airleak,;;;;etc etc.
The mechy needs to keep the car overnight and get the car to demonstrate the
fault.
Jason
Neil Fisher
wrote:
>Hi there all,
>
> Lately I've been having strange problems with the car... it's fine
>while cold, but as soon as I do a run of any more than a couple of km
>the car refuses to idle, it just studders, drops and dies, very
>traumatic especially when my wife drives the car, made worse by the
>fact that it's an automatic (hard to keep the rpm up while waiting at
>an intersection).
>
> Secondly, though this may be unrelated, the battery just dropped
>dead this morning, kaput, nothing, barely 8.5V across the terminals
>with no load.
Two things I can think of.
Firstly, the throttle position switch - if it's badly adjusted, the
car will stall coming back to idle, especially if you are "hard" on
the brakes. If you can avoid the stall by stopping very slowly (almost
coasting to a stop), then this sounds like the problem. Further
evidence would be being able to "create" the problem by a quick on-off
the throttle from stopped.
Secondly, in these cars, the ECU doesn't reset the IAC valve to a
"known" position at start-up - it assumes it knows where it is, so a
dead battery can stuff up idle.
Neil
---
Neil Fisher / Bob Young
Thundercords
personal opinion unless otherwise noted.
Looking for spark plug leads?
Check out http://www.magnecor.com.au
Miro
>
> Lately I've been having strange problems with the car... it's fine
> while cold, but as soon as I do a run of any more than a couple of km
> the car refuses to idle, it just studders, drops and dies, very
> traumatic especially when my wife drives the car, made worse by the
> fact that it's an automatic (hard to keep the rpm up while waiting at
> an intersection).
>
> Secondly, though this may be unrelated, the battery just dropped
> dead this morning, kaput, nothing, barely 8.5V across the terminals
> with no load.
I did this overhaul myself this week. It takes about an hour, but you seem
to have done most of it.
This is my check list for 100K (big service job).
- timing belt
- new coolant
- Tranny oil
- motor oil
- fuel filter
- air element
- dist cap
- rotor
- coil
- check battery (always use maximum amp battery)
- speak plugs
- idle speed controller
- check engine seals
- brake fluid bleeding and replace
- air con check (is it cold or just cool)
Not all of these things need to be done,
Your 90% likely is the Idle speed controller - it blows every 2-3 years and
is EASY to replace. Then you need a tune-up on the ECU connection to
calibrate the idle.
You can email me for details.
teK--
other week, it was $104.50 for an aftermarket unit from Burson's Auto
Spares. It took about 15mins to fit it, then 5mins to reset the base
idle. All you need is a screwdriver, small socket wrench, and a
jumper wire to short out 2 connectors on the ECU connector.
Let me know if u need some help.
On 26 Jan 2004 21:41:29 -0800, plda...@pldaniels.com (Paul Daniels)
wrote:
>Hi there all,
Miro
"teK--" <-yumspam...@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:n8ck10tjv6e0n69mn...@4ax.com...
> Almost certain it's the Idle Speed Control Motor. I replaced mine the
> other week, it was $104.50 for an aftermarket unit from Burson's Auto
> Spares. It took about 15mins to fit it, then 5mins to reset the base
> idle. All you need is a screwdriver, small socket wrench, and a
> jumper wire to short out 2 connectors on the ECU connector.
>
> Let me know if u need some help.
As a rule I dont generally poke around the ECU since I like to do the
mechnical work. Is there a site on manipulating the ECU ?
gdc
First thing I did was replace the Idle Speed Control Motor, however this did
not fix the problem. Have since replaced just about all the sensors and
still no luck. As a last resort I took the car to Mitsubishi who told me
that I needed a new ECU. So I replaced that and guess what - no luck -
thanks Mitsubishi.
I am thinking that it is the Idle Speed Control motor and that the one I got
must have been faulty.
"Paul Daniels" <plda...@pldaniels.com> wrote in message
news:f68a1ec3.04012...@posting.google.com...
Miro
"gdc" <g_ch...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:401b0f6a$1...@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
> I had the same idle problem with my 91 TR 4cyl.
> First thing I did was replace the Idle Speed Control Motor, however this
did
> not fix the problem. Have since replaced just about all the sensors and
> still no luck. As a last resort I took the car to Mitsubishi who told me
> that I needed a new ECU. So I replaced that and guess what - no luck -
> thanks Mitsubishi.
> I am thinking that it is the Idle Speed Control motor and that the one I
got
> must have been faulty.
Replace the power steering pump. The bloody thing puts about 20Kw extra load
on the motor when it's not working well.
Take the Idle Speed Controller needs to be removed. and the plenum body (big
air intake assembly) and the whole thing given a good wash with a carbon
remover. You will need a new plenum gasket.
Also check the fuel pressure and main spark coil. While you have the plenum
off you can do the dist cap and rotor, plus the o-ring on on the distributor
(engine side - internal oil seal).
Another one is gumming of the injectors. Easily taken out but it is a
multi-step procedure and it requires a specialist injector cleaner to flush
them out. McGrath in Liverpool in Sydney do very high level injector service
with a custom jig. They even service the o-rings and actuators.
You sure got taken for a ride on the ECU - I hope you got it from a wrecker.
If not, I suggest you ask for a refund and the old part back. You do realise
that the old part belongs to you.
Paul Daniels
suggestions;
It does seem to make sense about the resetting of the IAC, because the
'failure' coincided with the battery failure. Anyone want to email me
the proceedure for the resetting?
What further indicates the IAC / ECU issue is that the car will idle
okay if I turn on the AC unit - I /suspect/ (I'm no car mechanic)
that the computer will make the solenoid/stepper crack open a bit more
to allow for the extra load on the motor from the AC compressor.
I'm getting pretty darn paranoid about this car now, but I'll go
through and put a 100,000km type service on it because while the km's
are low, it's still a relatively old car.
Thanks in advance.
Miro
Age is like Km's .... it compounds the effect.
Paul Daniels
Regards.
ton...@gmail.com
D Walford
> I would like to know also as my car has the same issue and only happened after my battery died i got a new battery and not even the next day my car just shuttered and died when braking to turn into a park i actually hit someones car as my car died the steering went stiff
>
Low voltage could cause that.
--
Daryl
Clocky
> I would like to know also as my car has the same issue and only happened after my battery died i got a new battery and not even the next day my car just shuttered and died when braking to turn into a park i actually hit someones car as my car died the steering went stiff
>
which can take some time but to help with your stalling problem try this.
Leave the car idling until it's at normal operating temperature or 15-20
minutes. Assuming it is auto, pop it in gear and wait a minute or so
with your foot on the brake. Do the same in reverse.
Put it back in park. Turn on the air conditioner full blast and wait for
60 seconds.
Turn A/C off. Turn the steering wheel to hard lock, wait for the idle to
stabilise then turn to hard lock the other direction and wait until the
idle stabilises.
Then repeat with the A/C on full blast.
That should do for a general relearn which should fix the stalling problem.