Holden Astra air-con clutch fix
Knobdoodle
(and people are generally charged a motza) but there's a cheap
diode/thermister/miscellaneous-semiconductor replacement that'll fix the
problem.
--
Knob
(http://xkcd.com/621/)
Dave
<knobd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Anyone know the fix for the Astra air-con problem? I hear it's quite common
>(and people are generally charged a motza) but there's a cheap
>diode/thermister/miscellaneous-semiconductor replacement that'll fix the
>problem.
Had a problem 2 years ago but forgot what the fix was.
atec7 7
Dave
wrote:
Is that supposed to make any sense at all or is just another
smart-arse comment?
Clocky
"Knobdoodle" <knobd...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:iqQOm.57205$ze1....@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> Anyone know the fix for the Astra air-con problem? I hear it's quite
> common (and people are generally charged a motza) but there's a cheap
> diode/thermister/miscellaneous-semiconductor replacement that'll fix the
> problem.
It's the clutch coil that fails, and whilst it can be replaced reasonably
easily in situ, they are expensive to buy as a spare part if they are still
available.
George W Frost
"Dave" <dav...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:p9nng51juakf9r17k...@4ax.com...
No, that would be a comment for the smart-arsed original poster
who alleges he knows everything so why tell him again?
Clocky
"Clocky" <not...@happen.com> wrote in message
news:031bd7df$0$1273$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
Actually, that makes me think. There would probably be a thermal protection
device on the compressor and is likely incorporated into the clutch coil and
more likely to go open circuit then the coil windings. We will probably be
replacing some shortly, I'll investigate further...
Knobdoodle
> Actually, that makes me think. There would probably be a thermal
> protection device on the compressor and is likely incorporated into the
> clutch coil and more likely to go open circuit then the coil windings. We
> will probably be replacing some shortly, I'll investigate further...
>
Knob
Knobdoodle
>
> Is that supposed to make any sense at all or is just another
> smart-arse comment?
>
Smart?!!?
--
Knob
Clocky
As luck would have it I have a spare that I kept for my Astra, well the
compressor is iffy but the clutch works perfectly so I'll endevour to
disassemble and inspect next week and I'll post my findings here.
Knobdoodle
> As luck would have it I have a spare that I kept for my Astra, well the
> compressor is iffy but the clutch works perfectly so I'll endevour to
> disassemble and inspect next week and I'll post my findings here.
>
Thanks but I found it on the interweb and had a go at it today.
It's got a 187� thermal fuse on the inside (compressor side) of the coil
that had blown.
It's a turd of a thing to get at but I replaced it with a 228� one that was
4 times the size but I've sort-of squeezed in.
I ran out of light (and I was sick of the ant-bites) so the reassembly
happens tomorrow.
Fingers crossed!
(The fix is here
<http://www.motorsm.com/complaints/update/display.asp?aid=3521> )
--
Knob.
John_H
The purpose of a thermal fuse is to shut down the compressor when it
fails (ie overheats from mechanical friction) and before it seizes.
Thermal fuses tend be very reliable and seldom go bad. Is there any
reason to suspect an exception?
If there is a reason to suspect otherwise the logical fix might be to
bridge it out rather than replace the coil... provided you're prepared
to risk walking home if the compressor does happen to seize (or else
carry a spare belt). :)
The fact that neither Jayair nor OEX list the clutch coil in their
catalogues, but both have a replacement compressor, also suggests that
the compressor is what fails and the fuse probably only does what it's
supposed to.
--
John H
Clocky
"John_H" <john...@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:po23h51ea1l05g008...@4ax.com...
No, it's a common problem John. The coil goes open circuit, much like they
did on VN/VP Commodore because the thermal devices would fail likely due to
thermal cycling or because they're not made to tolerate the Australian
summer conditions.
They used to list the coil, but it was almost just expensive to remove,
repair and refit the compressor as it was to replace it because the part was
expensive and the extra labour involved had to be factored in. On top of
that, if the compressor did fail for whatever reason after the repair most
customers wouldn't believe that it wasn't related to the original clutch
fault and would expect a free repair.
Clocky
Cool yeah, I think I have discovered a nice little side project ;-)
John_H
>> fails (ie overheats from mechanical friction) and before it seizes.
>> Thermal fuses tend be very reliable and seldom go bad. Is there any
>> reason to suspect an exception?
>>
>> If there is a reason to suspect otherwise the logical fix might be to
>> bridge it out rather than replace the coil... provided you're prepared
>> to risk walking home if the compressor does happen to seize (or else
>> carry a spare belt). :)
>>
>> The fact that neither Jayair nor OEX list the clutch coil in their
>> catalogues, but both have a replacement compressor, also suggests that
>> the compressor is what fails and the fuse probably only does what it's
>> supposed to.
>>
>
>No, it's a common problem John. The coil goes open circuit, much like they
>did on VN/VP Commodore because the thermal devices would fail likely due to
>thermal cycling or because they're not made to tolerate the Australian
>summer conditions.
Presumably you mean the fuse trips, rather than the coil goes o/c?
FWIW I've never had a problem with my own VN in spite of living in a
very hot climate (by coastal city standards) but that's possibly only
because it's never run on R134A. The V8 (which mine is) also has a
different compressor to the V6 and I'm pretty sure the fuse is on the
compressor body and not part of the coil.
>
>They used to list the coil, but it was almost just expensive to remove,
>repair and refit the compressor as it was to replace it because the part was
>expensive and the extra labour involved had to be factored in. On top of
>that, if the compressor did fail for whatever reason after the repair most
>customers wouldn't believe that it wasn't related to the original clutch
>fault and would expect a free repair.
Which is no doubt why most repairers would replace the compressor to
begin with! (Holden may have listed it as a spare part but Jayair and
OEX never have.) :)
Nor does it make sense to replace the coil if it includes the problem
fuse... wouldn't it be better to bridge out the fuse first time around
and avoid a repetition (assuming it's easily got at with the coil
removed)?
Especially since heaps of compressors don't have thermal protection to
begin with. Downside is if the compressor does fail and seize in the
absence of the fuse it'll probably take out the drive belt, which
ought still be a lot cheaper than replacing the coil (or the
compressor) when the fuse is the problem.
--
John H
Clocky
> Clocky wrote:
>>"John_H" <john...@inbox.com> wrote in message
>>news:po23h51ea1l05g008...@4ax.com...
>>>
>>> The purpose of a thermal fuse is to shut down the compressor when it
>>> fails (ie overheats from mechanical friction) and before it seizes.
>>> Thermal fuses tend be very reliable and seldom go bad. Is there any
>>> reason to suspect an exception?
>>>
>>> If there is a reason to suspect otherwise the logical fix might be to
>>> bridge it out rather than replace the coil... provided you're prepared
>>> to risk walking home if the compressor does happen to seize (or else
>>> carry a spare belt). :)
>>>
>>> The fact that neither Jayair nor OEX list the clutch coil in their
>>> catalogues, but both have a replacement compressor, also suggests that
>>> the compressor is what fails and the fuse probably only does what it's
>>> supposed to.
>>>
>>
>>No, it's a common problem John. The coil goes open circuit, much like they
>>did on VN/VP Commodore because the thermal devices would fail likely due
>>to
>>thermal cycling or because they're not made to tolerate the Australian
>>summer conditions.
>
> Presumably you mean the fuse trips, rather than the coil goes o/c?
Yeah, the thermal fuse fails.
> FWIW I've never had a problem with my own VN in spite of living in a
> very hot climate (by coastal city standards) but that's possibly only
> because it's never run on R134A. The V8 (which mine is) also has a
> different compressor to the V6 and I'm pretty sure the fuse is on the
> compressor body and not part of the coil.
Correct, and on either VN or VP (forget which, it's been a while) there was
at one time a big problem with A/C compressors not cutting in and the
failure was that of the thermal protection device mounted on the compressor.
Holden released a "fix", which was basically to bypass the device on
affected compressors.
This mostly happened within warranty, so affected vehicles would have been
fixed in service or no longer affected when they fixed the problem in
production.
>>
>>They used to list the coil, but it was almost just expensive to remove,
>>repair and refit the compressor as it was to replace it because the part
>>was
>>expensive and the extra labour involved had to be factored in. On top of
>>that, if the compressor did fail for whatever reason after the repair most
>>customers wouldn't believe that it wasn't related to the original clutch
>>fault and would expect a free repair.
>
> Which is no doubt why most repairers would replace the compressor to
> begin with! (Holden may have listed it as a spare part but Jayair and
> OEX never have.) :)
>
That's what I'm getting at. You can still get the coil as a spare part AFAIK
from Holden. I can confirm that, if I remember.
Nor does it make sense to replace the coil if it includes the problem
> fuse... wouldn't it be better to bridge out the fuse first time around
> and avoid a repetition (assuming it's easily got at with the coil
> removed)?
No, because "techs" are just part fitters these days and are not allowed to
repair anything even if it is possible and they have the know-how.
The replacement compressors and presumably the replacement coils don't
suffer from the same problem so they fixed the problem in production. Not
all Astra's are affected anyway, and there were more then one type of
compressor fitted during it's production life.
> Especially since heaps of compressors don't have thermal protection to
> begin with. Downside is if the compressor does fail and seize in the
> absence of the fuse it'll probably take out the drive belt, which
> ought still be a lot cheaper than replacing the coil (or the
> compressor) when the fuse is the problem.
>
If mine fails I'll happily bypass the thermal protection but then I'm
currently opening up Astra ECU's to see if I can find a fix for those too as
they fail with monotonous regularity and with the same symptoms. Mine hasn't
failed yet...
susanliv...@yahoo.com.au
. Dry solder joints in control panel circuit board in dash.
. Tested pressures and temperature and replaced faulty pressure switch.
. Low voltage code cleared
. Dismantle and checked over circuit board, go over solder points which did not rectify the problem, tested. Board and switch on/off, supply and fit second hand control.
. Check a/c compressor clutch - no power, run diagnostic scan. Code for pressure switch failure. Plug to switch has been spliced in before. Plug was fitted with no seal and switch corroded out. Supply and fit new plug and cabling with seal. 1 x new pressure switch. Air not chilling a/c rehashed.
Anyone out there to help me as I am fed up with spending money and the same problem is occurring...
Susan
Note. Am I being taken for a ride or what?
Jason James
Sorry cant provide you with more detailed info,...but I got my AC fixed by going by dealing with trustworthy firms only :-)
Jason
felix
>> Hi I have an Astra City 2000 and have an ongoing problem of the air conditioning sometimes working, whenever I go over a bump it then either works or cuts out. I have spent $1,400.00 so far but am still having the same issue. The following has been fixed: 5 different visit to auto electrical services.
>>
>> . Dry solder joints in control panel circuit board in dash.
>> . Tested pressures and temperature and replaced faulty pressure switch.
>> . Low voltage code cleared
>> . Dismantle and checked over circuit board, go over solder points which did not rectify the problem, tested. Board and switch on/off, supply and fit second hand control.
>> . Check a/c compressor clutch - no power, run diagnostic scan. Code for pressure switch failure. Plug to switch has been spliced in before. Plug was fitted with no seal and switch corroded out. Supply and fit new plug and cabling with seal. 1 x new pressure switch. Air not chilling a/c rehashed.
>>
>> Anyone out there to help me as I am fed up with spending money and the same problem is occurring...
>> Susan
>> Note. Am I being taken for a ride or what?
> You need to go to an AConditioning specialist that has a good name in the industry. Ring your friends aND associates whom can advise you on who to go to from *their* experience..
>
> Sorry cant provide you with more detailed info,...but I got my AC fixed by going by dealing with trustworthy firms only :-)
as the aircon on/off switch on the dash being faulty/corroded, or having
loose connections or dirty contacts or such? I had to have the aircon
on/off switch in the Magna replaced as sometimes it would make contact
when pressed and sometimes not.
>
> Jason
>
--
"As long as there is this book [Koran] there will be no peace in the world"
-William Gladstone, four times PM of Great Britain
http://www.siotw.org/
jonz@ nothere.com
Thread started in 2009????............
Noddy
>
> Anyone out there to help me as I am fed up with spending money and the same problem is occurring...
> Susan
> Note. Am I being taken for a ride or what?
repairman and have them quote you a price to fix it, only for it to be
just as broken after you'd picked it up and paid for it then the answer
to your question is "no. You aren't being taken for a ride".
However, if you think, like most of the rest of the world, that you
should actually get what you *pay* for, then the answer is "Yes. You are
being taken for a ride".
As much as they might like to carry on otherwise, car repairers/dealers
are *not* exempt from consumer law. Just like anyone else if they
promise to perform a service for a fee they have to actually deliver on
that promise or give you your money back. It's not enough for them to
simply *guess* at the problem and then keep performing different tasks
at your expense which have nothing whatsoever to do with solving the
issue you went to them for in the first place.
Contact the consumer law authority in your state to get a more detailed
explanation of your rights, and how you should go about referring to the
repairer(s) who have already charged you to not fix your problem.
You are most decidedly being taken for a ride.
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
D Walford
diagnose.
Since the car is 16 yrs old and probably worth bugger all its not really
worth continuing to throw money at it, my daughter in law had a similar
age Vectra that was full of electrical gremlins and she cut her losses
and got rid of it which probably saved her a fortune in repairs.
You may not think that the above is all that helpful but IMO its how
things are, sometimes when you are just chasing your tail and getting no
where you are better off to just get rid of it.
--
Daryl
Clocky
The #1 cause for A/C not working on the 2000 model Astra was the
compressor clutch not cutting in due to the clutch coil going open circuit.
One way to check it is to engage the clutch with the scan tool and check
the voltages at the connecter for the compressor clutch. If there is
power but the clutch hasn't engaged then disconnecting it and checking
the coil winding continuity with a multimeter should confirm diagnosis.
Having said that, has anyone bothered to give the relay a tap with the
back of a screwdriver with the A/C operating?
Checked terminals haven't spread?
In any event, there is nothing particularly complex about the Astra A/C
system and a systematic approach to fault diagnosis should soon reveal
the problem. Since you have already paid them to fix it and they
haven't, demand they do so.
It's completely unreasonable to have a supposed professional guess their
way to the problem at your expense.
Clocky
would include the thermal fuse integral with the coil as discussed in
this thread already.
It should be checked when the car is faulting as it sounds like your
problem is intermittent.