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VL Central Locking Installation

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JS

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May 15, 2001, 12:45:21 AM5/15/01
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Simple question here

Wishing to install central locking to a VL, looking at buying a Vision
Kit. I have been told that because the buttons go sideways it is a
bitch to install. Anyone here completed this job?

Any thoughts?

JS

Jim (Parramatta, NSW)

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May 14, 2001, 1:29:07 AM5/14/01
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I have done the job on VLs, from what I remember, the VK is the same setup.
It is more fiddly that a VN-VS but same priciple applies. The trick is dont
bend the push rod too much. It will be tempting to bend it to shape so it
operates correctly, but once you put the door skin back on, it can get in
the way, also, even if it works okay once you put the skin back on, it will
bend over time and the locks will no loger Lock/unlock, you will have to do
the job again. Also, be sure to tighten the locking screws as much as you
can, there is not much play in the throw on the VLs so you have to be
accurate.

I dont know of the Vision Kit, but just be certain the connecting rods are
solid(ish) I have seen some where the connecting rod is so supple that it
can very easily be bent by a 12 year old girl. deffinatley gonna cause
problems on a VL since the rod needs to be bend a *small* amount to fit
correctly, you dont want it bending anymore from the force of the actuator.

A word of warning. If you do need to drill holes into the door frame/brace
to secure the actuator, be sure the window is wound UP and the drill bit is
short , I have heard of a few people breaking through the metal of the door
with a drill bit, to find the drill bit has smashed the window or dinged the
outside (painted side) of the door. Or, just be carefull not to put too much
presure on the drill, you'll be right.

Hope this helps.

Jim.


"JS" <ja...@satlink.com.au> wrote in message
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Graham Dalgleish

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May 15, 2001, 7:32:08 AM5/15/01
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I've fitted a Rhino alarm and central locking kit to VL. Some of the
problems are that the front locks operate via a 180deg rotating plastic
fitting and operate in the opposite direction to the back doors. In other
words the front doors are locking when the back doors are unlocking. Some of
the wiring has to be reversed.

We also manufactured stronger parts from 5mm thick breadboard plastic. The
existing black plastic covers over the sliding door locks needed to be
trimmed back so that they didn't press as hard onto the lock slides. This
helped the locks to operate efficiently. This unit has now given 6 months
service now without any problems.

The other problem was getting the wiring through the leading edge of the
front doors. There is a steel plate there that is about 8mm thick so is
difficult to drill through. The comment about the push rods is the same for
the Rhino kit. They are very high tensile and don't stand up to much bending
pressure. We manufactured stronger rods from 3/16inch threaded rod and
welded the short length of original rods on each end.

Other than the above changes it works great.

Graham


Wazza

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May 15, 2001, 10:56:32 AM5/15/01
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Graham Dalgleish <dees...@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:Ys8M6.54799$ff.4...@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

> I've fitted a Rhino alarm and central locking kit to VL. Some of the
> problems are that the front locks operate via a 180deg rotating plastic
> fitting and operate in the opposite direction to the back doors. In other
> words the front doors are locking when the back doors are unlocking. Some
of
> the wiring has to be reversed
Hi, the reversed wiring should be simple, the kit i had (strathfield $30
one) needed reversed wiring on the rear and it tells you what wire you need
connected to what other one, but from what i remember there were only 3
wires to the back doors with black being earth and the other two reversed.

--
Keep Cruisin'
Wazza

> Graham
>
>
>
>


Wazza

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May 15, 2001, 11:02:02 AM5/15/01
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Hi JS
With it going sideways it shouldnt be too hard, the only difference is that
you need to have the actuator (thing that pulls/pushes locks) installed
sideways.
A simpler option might be to check out the wreckers or rare spares and see
if anyone has an original kit?
When you install it, check on the actual lock for a hole (probably have to
pull whole lock out) that isnt used by anything and have the rod go through
that rather than the screw thing fixed to another rod. I found this worked
a hell of alot better and ended up easier after the screw connector buggered
up on me when i put it in my VH.

--
Keep Cruisin'
Wazza

JS <ja...@satlink.com.au> wrote in message
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JS

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May 15, 2001, 6:27:30 PM5/15/01
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Thanks everyone, i can see why some places charged $60 a door.
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