Manufactured for Subaru, in Australia, by Bar's Leaks (snake oil
purveyors from way back) it's part of the 12,500km service schedule
listed in the "Warranty and Service Handbook". Strangely, it doesn't
get a mention in either the owner's manual or the service manual, so
it might be Oz only. Mine's 1,500km overdue for the treatment and the
can's still rattling around in the glove box. Possibly there are
warranty implications, to do or not to do is the question!
For those who're not aware of it, the idea is to squirt half a can
into the intake manifold, via one of the vacuum connections, leave
stand for 10 minutes, start the engine and squirt in the rest while
it's running (150 ml or so all up). It's supposed to clean the crap
out of the engine's internals.
Over the years there's been at least two products promoted for the
same purpose. One's Redex, the other's Seafoam. Both are snake oil
in that they claim a number of unlikely benefits when used in various
ways... eg Seafoam is also claimed to clean injectors when used as a
fuel additive (pigs might fly) or you can tip some into the sump to
keep the moisture away. Redex was also promoted as a fuel additive,
and possibly an oil additive as well. (Subaru also market a separate
fuel additive, which is recommended in Australian supplement to the
owner's manual, but it's not part of the service schedule.)
I'd also be curious as to whether any other manufacturer specifies
anything similar... what's different about a Subaru?
--
John H
I've seen people pour small amts of water into the carby-throat,..engine up
to temp. This seems to cause some evacuation of carbon and crap out of the
exhaust. But if you've cleaned up valves, and have noted just how stuck on
the deposits can get, (especially the browny-orange stuff) then water may
not do much more than loosen soft deposits,..but a constant water-ijection
over years, apparently, according to those who have done it, does work.
I've seen Barr's leaks added to a 253 with a rusted Welch-plug actually
work. On strip-down, the plug behind the block had a hard extrusion of
Barr's ooze which did effectively stop the leak. Just took 6 cans :-)
Upper cylinder cleaner can only work if the deposits are already loose, and
as such, probably would come unstuck by themselves. Have you seen a car on
an expressway, blowing huge clouds of bluey-grey smoke? That is because
light pedal driving, has allowed excess soft deposits build-up. My FILs 173
Commy was driven very quietly and any heavy throttle, suddenly, dislodged
vast amounts of oil-soaked carbon. It cleared after a couple of minutes.
Install water-injection :-)
Jason
One of the products that many seem to rave about, even
outside of Subaru. I don't think it is any different to
your run of the mill Throttle Body cleaner in a can.
At 12,500kms, I would not imagine it should need it -
unless ofcourse the PVC system is of a design that lets
excess oil to enter the intake.
IMHO, best way to clean your intake manifold and
throttle body is to remove it and clean it. All that
shite (if there is any) end up in your combustion
chamber in an excessive dose.
If you do get it done, ensure its done *before* the oil
change.
The reason it's specified in Australia for all Subies is that our petrol
has a high sulphur content. For whatever reason, the very long inlet
branching on Subaru engines encourages sulphur (and presumably other gunk)
to build up there.
It *is* part of the service schedule in Oz. If you don't do it at least
every 25,000 I don't think you'll void your warranty but IME with Subies,
your fuel consumption may gradually increase about 10% and then revert to
its usual level once things are cleaned out again. If you know you're
using low sulphur fuel (you lucky fellow!) then the spray's probably not
worth bothering with. Cheers
--
Posted at www.usenet.com.au
The specific instructions are to apply it via one of the vacuum hoses
connected directly to the inlet manifold... which suggests they don't
want it to get anywhere near the throttle body.
Nor do they (Subaru) say exactly what it's supposed to do, though the
instructions tend to suggest it's primary purpose is to clean the
intake tracts. Whether the intended target is bats, cobwebs or
something else remains a mystery. :)
--
John H
Hmmm, maybe its just easier and more convenient to pull
off a vacuum hose than it is to remove intake plumbing.
It may also be quite harsh on various sensors, like air
intake, throttle position sensors and perhaps even the MAF.
> I'd also be curious as to whether any other manufacturer specifies
> anything similar... what's different about a Subaru?
Apart from attitude? Nothing.
I think you answered your own question when you mentioned that the stuff is
made for Subaru by Bars. There's nothing intrinsic about an opposed engine
that I'm aware of that demands this kind of "special treatment", nor has it
been something that's been a regular Subaru service requirement for many
years. Personally I think it's snake oil, and I'd be more concerned with
regular oil and filter changes (which I'm sure you are) than using any
"clean out crap" that's likely to do little other than lighten your wallet.
I'd like to see the fine print that states this is stuff is a warranty
requirement myself.
--
Regards,
Noddy.
Boxer engine, and it significantly reduced hotspots by removing the carbon
that causes it and consequently helps reduce pinking that Subaru engines are
prone to.
Engine is a 3.0R, which doesn't ping even on 91 RON, no doubt because
the ignition timing is sufficiently adaptive. Of course any tendency
to ping, as seen by the knock sensor, would result in reduced
performance (and increased fuel consumption).
Being made in Australia, and not mentioned in any of the manuals,
strongly suggests the product is local market only... if that's the
case what's different about Australian carbon? :)
The other problem I have with the carbon explanation is its being
insoluble... you can either scrape it off or burn it off. The
instructions say to leave soak for 10 minutes without running the
engine which also suggests it's intended to dissolve something in the
intake tract, rather than the combustion chambers. Obviously any
combustion chambers behind closed valves won't even get to see it
before the engine is started!
The instructions for SeaFoam (US made snake oil) are to pour it in
with the engine idling until it stalls... the intention being to make
sure there's plenty of it in the combustion chambers. It'd be a
pretty safe bet it doesn't remove carbon either, in spite of the
claims.
Some say the Subaru product is SeaFoam (same recipe) but I've got no
idea if that's true.
--
John H
People often using fuel that isn't 91 RON.
> The other problem I have with the carbon explanation is its being
> insoluble... you can either scrape it off or burn it off. The
> instructions say to leave soak for 10 minutes without running the
> engine which also suggests it's intended to dissolve something in the
> intake tract, rather than the combustion chambers. Obviously any
> combustion chambers behind closed valves won't even get to see it
> before the engine is started!
Whatever, all I know is that it works and carbon in the combustion chamber
causing pinking has been an issue for a long time with using regular ULP
with Subaru engines and the upper cylinder cleaner removes it.
> The instructions for SeaFoam (US made snake oil) are to pour it in
> with the engine idling until it stalls... the intention being to make
> sure there's plenty of it in the combustion chambers. It'd be a
> pretty safe bet it doesn't remove carbon either, in spite of the
> claims.
>
> Some say the Subaru product is SeaFoam (same recipe) but I've got no
> idea if that's true.
>
The genuine stuff seems to work very well with the Subaru engines, no idea
who made/makes it.
Yours is the only explanation I've heard, or managed to find, that's
consistent with the instructions (obviously aimed at removing
something from the intake tracts) as well as what appears to be a
peculiarly local issue! Can you provide anything further to support
it... eg Subaru service advisory note, detrimental effects of sulphur
in petrol, etc?
Also.... I don't recall you saying how long you've been here so you
may not be aware of the stink associated with the first cat
converters. I bought a new VN in 1990 that was as vile as the rest.
As the years went by the stink subsided and I assumed the cat had
gotten tired... I now know it's down to the reduction in sulphur
content. None seem to stink anymore!
I've no idea at what levels the stink ceases but obviously there's a
lot less sulphur than there used to be. Nor can I recall any problems
arising from the earlier high levels in any make of car, including
Subaru's.
The other issue is the increased fuel consumption you mention. To my
way of thinking, any deposits in the runners are no more likely to
increase fuel consumption than a hiclone would be likely to decrease
it. A possible explanation would be something forming in the manifold
that might migrate to the combustion chambers forming deposits there.
I do monitor fuel consumption closely and it's always been consistent,
10� to 11litre/100km. The exception being when I'm forced to run 91
RON, which increases consumption by around 10% (as you'd reasonably
expect from adaptive ignition timing).
The Subaru shit costs around $15 a can, which isn't a major
impediment... I'm more interested in what it might do, if anything.
Current thinking after reading your post is to administer it at the
next service and see if I can notice any difference, if I can't I'm
unlikely to buy a second can.
On a similar theme, I know lots of people who run their 91 RON engines
on Premium, fit hiclones, etc, and do notice the difference. I never
can. For some odd reason if a plug lead drops off the same people
never seem to notice but I always do. Which makes me think there just
might be an underlying principle in all of this. ;-)
--
John H
Try reading what's written on the can. ;-)
It's made in Australia by Bar's Leaks!!! :-)
--
John H
I've been here since '72 and used to drive 50-90,000Km a year, so yes, I
remember the smell all too well. I can't say I miss our VN awfully much,
although
it did hold heaps of sound gear on occasions....
We had a 1991 Liberty and a 1999 OB, both wagons. AFAIR, the upper engine
cleaner was listed as a service item in the service book for both cars.
The books stayed with the cars when they moved on, so I can't check that.
I questioned both the Service manager at a local dealership and someone at
Subaru Australia. I *think* that both of them gave me the same explanation
at the time - prob mid 90s. In our experience over about 500,000Km in the
two cars, not using it started to increase fuel consumption after about
15K in the Liberty and 18K in the OB. Mind you, using 98 in our Outback
always *increased* fuel consumption by about 1Km/L too!
Possibly by now the gradual lowering of allowable sulphur in Oz fuels
means that it's no longer a problem, but I missed doing it at one oil
change late in '07 and still noticed the usual difference about 5,000 Kms
later, so there you go.
Try it and see, after all, one particular car / pair of drivers means
nothing statistically. Cheers
--
Posted at www.usenet.com.au
Interesting info, which tells me it's been around for yonks. Also be
interesting to know if it predates EFI, where whatever it might remove
would presumably have been a worse problem in the days before knock
sensors.
>I questioned both the Service manager at a local dealership and someone at
>Subaru Australia. I *think* that both of them gave me the same explanation
>at the time - prob mid 90s. In our experience over about 500,000Km in the
>two cars, not using it started to increase fuel consumption after about
>15K in the Liberty and 18K in the OB. Mind you, using 98 in our Outback
>always *increased* fuel consumption by about 1Km/L too!
Any measurable increase in fuel consumption is something I'd soon
notice and it hasn't happened yet (with only 14k from new). It's a
3.0R Outback and 98 RON has never affected it one way or the other but
91 RON certainly does (as well as the overall performance). It
normally gets 95 RON, as specified, unless unavailable.
On the strength of your observations I'll withhold the treatment until
the next service unless something untoward happens in the meantime.
By then, if it's going to do anything useful the effect ought be
obvious. ;-)
FWIW SeaFoam has been around since the end of WW2 but has never had a
big following here AFAIK. It's used in a similar fashion to the Subie
stuff (some say it's the same thing). There's a video at the bottom
of the page....
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment/index.html
--
John H
I'm aware of the benefits, as well as water being about the only thing
that does reliably remove carbon. It's just not something I want to
muck about with in this instance.
The majority of modern engines produce very little by way of deposits
in combustion chambers and on piston tops. I've only ever found it to
be an issue on engines with way too high a CR and fixed ignition
timing... anything that's stock n.a. with a knock sensor should retard
the timing to the point where pinging stops.
Not that I can be certain since I haven't heard an engine ping for
years (the accumulated effect of straight out exhausts, crawler
tractors, and centre fire rifles). Wife still has good hearing though
and can usually be depended upon to make loud low frequency noises I
can hear (which hasn't ever happened for an engine with a knock
sensor). ;-)
She tells me that the Mazda ute pings immediately before it kicks down
to 4th when it's lugging in 5th, but it's on 91 RON without a knock
sensor. Not that the occasional brief ping ever hurt anything! :)
--
John H
The stuff we used to use when I was working for Subaru had Subaru written on
it, along with the corporate logo and Japanese writing.
> It's made in Australia by Bar's Leaks!!! :-)
>
Maybe it is these days, but not when I was working for Subaru.
It was called upper cylinder cleaner - make of that what you will.
Snake oil, by any other name. ;-)
What Subaru Australia currently list in the 12,500km service schedule
is called "Upper Engine Cleaner" (part # SA459). Nowhere in the
instructions, or on the label, is upper cylinder mentioned and nor is
there any claim it removes carbon or combustion chamber deposits.
They also recommend a "fuel additive" (part # SA718), which isn't
listed in the service schedule. I have no idea what it's supposed to
do.
--
John H
The Camry (9.8:1) pings for the duration of the anti-knock attack time when
down low in 4th with a throttle increase,..on E10 its OK.
Jason
Daryl
Would using 98 PULP remove the need for the treatment?
We have never used anything other than 98 in ours and I've never heard
any pinging.
Daryl
> Very good questions that I have thought about but not come up with any
> answers for.
> Our Impreza hasn't had either the Upper Cylinder Cleaner or the fuel
> treatment for more than 20,000klms and its running perfectly.
> Maybe its needed for cars that do a lot of stop start type driving?
More than anything else it's probably needed for dealerships to whack an
extra hunjie in their bank account :)
--
Regards,
Noddy.
>Would using 98 PULP remove the need for the treatment?
>We have never used anything other than 98 in ours and I've never heard
>any pinging.
Fuel consumption increase, without any other reason, would be the
result of the engine backing off the timing to avoid audible pinging.
Retarding the timing reduces the peak pressure because the flame
propagates later into the combustion space that's expanding more
rapidly. (Sinusoidal)
Reduced pressure means less torque. So either you drive a bit slower
or subconsiously compensate, opening the throttle further and using
a bit more fuel. i.e. higher fuel consumption.
--
/"\ Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
\ / ASCII ribbon campaign | Politics is the art of looking for trouble,
X against HTML mail | finding it everywhere, diagnosing it incorrectly
/ \ and postings | and applying the wrong remedies - Groucho Marx
Upper _Engine_ Cleaner is needed at every service according to Subaru
Australia, irrespective of what type of running (or what type of
fuel)... see your Warranty and Service Handbook. It's therefore
included in the dealer service and you'd be charged accordingly.
It doesn't claim to clean the combustion chambers BTW, only the intake
tracts. Their recommended fuel additive (which may or may not be an
upper cylinder treatment) isn't part of the maintenance schedule. See
the Australian supplement to your Owners Manual.
--
John H
I'd suspect any difference in 91 RON E10 vs ULP would be down to batch
variations or age. Even slight differences in octane rating can have
a significant effect in some instances (a fact that's long been
exploited by many commercial products sold as octane boosters).
In any case, a cheaper option would probably be to use 95 RON PULP,
since the increased fuel consumption of the E10 will more than offset
the price difference. Theoretical increase is 4%, based on energy
content. Many people (me included) reckon it's nearer 10%, based on
real life fuel consumption figures. With adaptive ignition timing
(knock sensor) the difference between E10 and conventional PULP could
be even greater.
--
John H
Haven't noticed any fuel consumption increase but since the car hasn't
been used much in the last couple of months due to my wife's broken foot
I'll have to keep an eye on the consumption when she starts driving again.
Daryl
Using 98RON you shouldn't have too much to worry about.
:The reason it's specified in Australia for all Subies is that our petrol
:has a high sulphur content.
Does that also apply to our 98RON?
Permissible sulphur content in Oz fuel has been lowered significantly over
the last 20 years. MAybe someone who still has a Subie can ring Tech
Support in Moorebank(?) and ask them the pertinenet question for 98RON. I
don't have the number anymore and finding it is currently low on a rather
large list of Fings To Do - although I would be interested in their
response. Cheers
--
Posted at www.usenet.com.au
Better still, check the Australian fuel standards for petrol (google
should find 'em). According to figures I've got....
From Jan 2002 500ppm max sulphur.
From Jan 2005 150ppm max sulphur.
Since Jan 2008 50ppm max sulphur.
The standards make no distinction between octane ratings. In other
words (and in spite of rumours spread by oilcos) there's absolutely no
reason to presume that 98 RON is in any way superior to 91 RON, or 95
RON, for other than its octane rating.
AFAIK the current Australian standard for sulphur content (50ppm) is
identical to Euro IV (google should confirm it).
--
John H
..so I guess there *should* by now be absolutely no reason to use the
stuff, unless it's worth doing a cleanout at the major (100K) interval.
It's already four figures, so another 30 bucks isn't going to make much
difference :)
--
Posted at www.usenet.com.au
If the sulphur explanation is correct, and I'm yet to hear a better
one, it's probably been in the same realm as snake oil since at least
January 2008. AFAIK it's still included in the 12,500 km maintainance
schedule though.
--
John H
Well, I'll guarantee that's the explanation I was given at the time and it
was entirely credible. If I was buying another one now though, I don't
think I'd bother unless the car was showing a lack of performance &/or
increased thirst for no other apparent reason. For now though, I'll keep
my elderly Saab and drive my wife's 206GTi whenever the opportunity
presents itself :)
--
Posted at www.usenet.com.au