2001 Holden Astra emmission control light coming on
Bronns
Looking for someone who has had the emission control light stay on after
they start the engine. Its supposed to flash on then off. Holden tells
me that it may cost $700 to fix, but they need to test it properly as
the light wasn't on when I took the car in. This weekend the light has
stayed on all the time, where as previously when I stopped and then
restarted, it would go off.
Also the traction control light keeps coming on and off too, and the
car runs really roughly when that happens, couldn't get it past 40kms/hr
in an 80k zone today!
--
Bronns
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Clocky
"Bronns" <Bronns...@no-mx.phorums.com.au> wrote in message
news:Bronns...@no-mx.phorums.com.au...
Well, to be honest it could be any number of things and almost impossible to
diagnose without having access to the vehicle.
It could be the EGR valve, and yes they are expensive and can cause poor
running and certainly the emission light to illuminate. Also a dodgey crank
angle sensor is a possibility and it's entirely possible that it's more then
one problem.
A dodgey coilpack can cause similar symptoms as described.
Brock
the same time... possibly I did)
Have you been using E10 fuel (the Ethanol stuff)?
Ths first time it happened to me (Emissions light on, intermittent
rough running), Holden replaced the o2 sensor, which did fix the
problem. It happened 20k after filling up with E10, which I just put
down to a coincidence.
The next time I put in Ethanol (a while later... I mainly use the good
stuff) the light came on again. I drove it like this (mainly it ran
fine, just the light was on), until I could fill up with Unleaded
again. 20K later, light off, running fine. No Ethanol since, no
problems since.
What I think was happening, is the E makes the O2 sensor dirty (or
something), then the good stuff makes it clean again.
The Holden page says E10 is fine for the car, but I don't beleive
them.
Brock
Clocky
"Brock" <brock...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:079768d7-ce07-4f18...@u18g2000pro.googlegroups.com...
Same car, same problem. (not sure if I had the TCS light problem at
the same time... possibly I did)
Have you been using E10 fuel (the Ethanol stuff)?
Ths first time it happened to me (Emissions light on, intermittent
rough running), Holden replaced the o2 sensor, which did fix the
problem. It happened 20k after filling up with E10, which I just put
down to a coincidence.
The next time I put in Ethanol (a while later... I mainly use the good
stuff) the light came on again. I drove it like this (mainly it ran
fine, just the light was on), until I could fill up with Unleaded
again. 20K later, light off, running fine. No Ethanol since, no
problems since.
What I think was happening, is the E makes the O2 sensor dirty (or
something), then the good stuff makes it clean again.
The Holden page says E10 is fine for the car, but I don't beleive
them.
Astra's should be run on premium, they go better and run slightly cheaper.
amber.2
The last place i would take it to would be a Holden dealer, find
your self a good Auto Electrician, it will only cost you half of what
Holden charges.
--
amber.2
Bronns
Took the day off work & got it fixed today as the car was pretty well
undriveable.., and I had to get it done at Holden as I couldn't find
anyone else who could fix it today. I need it to get to work, such is
life.
Anyone out there driving a Mazda 2 Neo, they came out last year? I did
a test drive this morning and thought it was good for a small car.
--
Bronns
hippo
..and the problem was?
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Brock
I'd have to get over %12 more kilometres on premium for it to be
cheaper, do you really think this is the case? I drive it pretty
lightly... trying to conserve fuel/money.
Maybe I should do some record keeping and test it out.
Brock
PS: prices from http://carsguide.news.com.au/site/on-going-costs/petrol-prices/
That site also says Saturday is the cheapest day to buy petrol in
Sydney, not sure if my experience agrees with that.
Clocky
>> Astra's should be run on premium, they go better and run slightly
>> cheaper.
>
> I'd have to get over %12 more kilometres on premium for it to be
> cheaper, do you really think this is the case? I drive it pretty
> lightly... trying to conserve fuel/money.
Ok, I meant they run slightly more economical. I regularly achieved around
5l/100km on long runs which I think is pretty good, running on premium.
Standard ULP used slightly more.
> Maybe I should do some record keeping and test it out.
Interesting to see what you find.
> Brock
> PS: prices from
> http://carsguide.news.com.au/site/on-going-costs/petrol-prices/
>
> That site also says Saturday is the cheapest day to buy petrol in
> Sydney, not sure if my experience agrees with that.
>
Usually Tuesdays is cheapest around here, I think.
leon...@gmail.com
Now solution is here........I am not mechanic but after spending lot of time & money, finally rolled my sleeves.
Grab few tools and remove Air filter & whole black pipe.
Disconnect sensor from Air pipe.
Remove big air pipe from Butterfly valve ( Throttle body).
Get some greaser spray or throttle body clean spray to clean throttle body & butterfly valve. (Good Clean it)
Start engine couple of times without air pipe.
Clean throttle body couple of times. ( Must be very good clean)
________________________________________________________________________________________________
You will find a small black pipe which is going from Throttle body to some small part ( I think it is solenoid or vacuum pipe)
________________________________________________________________________________________________
Connect it firmly to throttle body and to all connector. (This is very important step) 99% problem was there.
(In my car it was loose, almost out from throttle body)
Is that small black pipe is broken then replace it.
Now my car running like new car. I got all power back.
No misfire. No more car shaking. No more up & down engine rotation (RPM), No more starting problem, No more brake problem, No more power staring problem.
leon...@gmail.com
cjj...@live.com
Clocky
the bonnet and make sure they are secure. If OK it's probably a
plug/coilpack, EGR or an ECU fault. The latter usually causes a dead
misfire but may not set a code.
You can check the resistances of the coils, they should all be about the
same and if one isn't, it's likely to be faulty.
You can check the coils with a multimeter set to ohms, between pin 2
(ign voltage) and pins 3,4,5 and 6 at the connector.
You can use use this as a reference:
http://tinypic.com/r/2hriw6b/9
Just be aware that a failing coil pack may measure OK and still be
faulty if there is an internal crack that is causing arcing. It may even
be temperature sensitive so keep that in mind.
If you know someone with a diagnostic scan tool, ask them to check for
codes and run a power balance test to determine which cylinder(s) is
(are) down. They can also check the O2 sensor and EGR valve for correct
operation and for any codes relating to them, particularly history codes
if none are current.
If you can get to the injector connectors, you can disconnect them one
by one with the engine running to isolate the cylinders. The one that
makes the least difference is the one with the issue. IIRC on the Z18XE
the injector connectors aren't that easy to get to even with the cover off.
Another common issue relates to the EGR valve sooting up or just
failing. If you pull it off and it's caked in soot, it's going to cause
rough running issues.
None of this may be applicable to you but if you keep your Astra long
enough you will be affected by one of these issues at some point ;-)