Just got a new bike with Campag Chorus running gear...
Have heard so much about WL over the net and via the bike shops.
Previously, I've used Finish Line - Telfon Lube..
Can anyone advise on which is best for my new gear....is WL as good as
they say....and can you put it on a new chain without removing the
original lube that comes with it???
Would like any suggestions
Dean
>Hi all
>Just got a new bike with Campag Chorus running gear...
>Have heard so much about WL over the net and via the bike shops.
>Previously, I've used Finish Line - Telfon Lube..
>Can anyone advise on which is best for my new gear....is WL as good as
>they say....and can you put it on a new chain without removing the
>original lube that comes with it???
>Would like any suggestions
I was most curious about WL after hearing about it on the 'net. I
eventually bought some and tried it on my girlfriend's hybrid and my
own commuting hack. I have to say that I really believe that you and
your choice components would be much better off if you clean and OIL
your chain regularly. Contrary to the hype, the wax-based WL does NOT
magically shed dirt and most definately does NOT repel water. Flame me
if you must, but I think that WL is an exercise in wishful thinking.
Look after your wonderful new bike properly - clean your chain
regularly and use REAL lubricant.
I should add that I am most certainly NOT a retro-grouch: I am a
self-confessed gear freak willing to try almost any "technological
advance". I have used the Finish Line dry lube on my mountain bike
while touring in Cape York Peninsula and found it useful for dusty
conditions. Personally, I would stick to a more conventional oil-based
lube: especially for wet, muddy Melbourne conditions.
These are just my own opinions. I hope they help, anyway.
Cheers & Beers.
Alex Ip
(fst...@lux.latrobe.edu.au)
What about just plain household paraffin wax for the chain?
The only reason to use WL is ease of maintainence for
mountain bikers who ride in extremely dirty conditions. It
doesn't last very long (about 2 hours), and needs to be
reapplied often. It will not lubricate as well as a "wet"
lube because it won't continually flow back into where it is
being worn off. Also, reapplying it without cleaning the
chain, as recommended, causes it to mix with dirt already on
the chain, forming a perfect "cutting paste" that will grind
away your expensive Campy parts.
You're better off using a good "wet" lube. Finish Line
Century is better for road use than their "dry" Teflon lube.
90wt gear oil would be good. My personal favorite is
Tetrabike, which penetrates well, and lasts a really long
time.
Matt O.
}
For general use I am now using a motorcycle chain lube. Much cheaper than
Finish line, and appears similar to their cross country lube. Nothing
wrong with Finish Line products, but think they are too expensive due to
packaging/distribution.
Frank van Zanten
As I've posted before (some may think ad nauseum) I've been using paraffin
laced with a little PTFE based engine treatment for years. One of my chains
has NEVER seen a drop of oil and is still going strong at 16,614 miles (as of
last evening's club training ride).
--
jeve...@wwa.com (John V. Everett)
.d
* David Martin, PhD - Post-Doctoral Research Fellow *
* Atherosclerosis and Thrombosis research group *
* Biotechnologisenteret i Oslo *
* Postboks 1125 Blindern, N-0316 Oslo, Norway *
* Tel: +47 22 95 84 54 Fax: +47 22 69 41 30 *
* http://www.uio.no/~damartin/ david....@biotek.uio.no *
At QUT where I work, there is a lecturer / researcher in
lubrication theory, who is also a fairly keen cyclist.
He strongly recommends the products designed for motor
cycle chains. The conditions on motor cycle chains are
nearly the same as for bicycle chains (continuing to
lubricate in muddy conditions when grit has attached
itself to your chain). So, he says anything containing
molybdenum disulphide, such as "Link Lube".
Marketting means these are much cheaper than the
equivalent product fro bicycles.
Take care
Ronno
[ snip ]
> At QUT where I work, there is a lecturer / researcher in
> lubrication theory, who is also a fairly keen cyclist.
> He strongly recommends the products designed for motor
> cycle chains. The conditions on motor cycle chains are
> nearly the same as for bicycle chains (continuing to
> lubricate in muddy conditions when grit has attached
> itself to your chain). So, he says anything containing
> molybdenum disulphide, such as "Link Lube".
A couple of related questions for the table:
How hot do motorcycle chains get ?
Are motorcycle chain lubes designed with this in mind ?
If the above is 'yes', what is the effect of not getting the lube
hot enough (when used on your bicycle) ??
Cheers ... Chris
--
',',',', __o
',',',', Chris Gillespie chr...@mincom.com `\<,
',',',', MINCOM Brisbane Australia (_)/(_)
Yes, and when it can girdle the earth I'll replace it. Only 7386 miles of
stretch to go.
I guess it depends on the bike but I've never noticed them
getting more than just warm. I've been using m/c chain lube,
a pommy one by Duckhams that you put on the stove (smelly!)
and melt it with the chain sitting in it. While still hot,
pull the chain out with a bit of coat hanger and let it drain
back into the pot. When it cools it really sticks. If too much of
it sticks to the outside just warm it up with a hot air gun and
let it drip off.
It's the best lube for bike chains (motor or not) I've found.
= Giles =
Tim
Scott
Your right about that. I find that all of the bike
voodoo associated with chain maintainance is rather
humorous. Pretty soon you'll hear about people who
chant magic words while spending 3 hours dripping
some magic concoction on a $20.00 part.
Jeff
I've found best to use a motorcycle chain lube that you heat up
and melt on the stove. It last for ages and is pretty friendly
when cooled down and actually on the bike. Otherwise it's just
a heavy oil, no witchcraft in it at all :-)
= Giles =
I have a container of diesel I leave my chain in for weeks while I'm
using the other one lubed in this way.
Theo
sc> @MSGID: dap.csiro.au 1685bd9f
sc> From: sc...@dap.csiro.au (Scott Martin)
sc> I'll probably get shot down in flames for this, but on the subject
sc> of chain lubes I suggest good old engine oil. I previously used
sc> teflon lubes, but frankly got tired of applying it really
sc> often. Plus I found none of them could hack it in dusty off
sc> road conditions or anywhere in heavy rain. OK, the aesthetics
sc> are a downer, but it does actually lubricate better and longer.
sc> The bike is much quieter than when using Finish Line.
sc> I use expensive synthetic motorbike oil, but only because that's
sc> what I've got lying around. I'm sure anything would do.
Basically, the motor cycle chain lubes are best, stay on the longest,
coat the chain and protect longer. Stongly recommended for tourers.
Racers probably don't want the weight of the wax base, so tend to use
oil. The lighter the oil, the quicker it washes off.
Basic oil is great so long as you add it when the chain gets wet.
Tourers can tell you that if you don't oil your chain at the end
of a rainy day, the next day your work load goes up and so does
the noise.
Horses for courses.
sc> Scott
sc> -!- ifmail v.2.8a/p4
sc> ! Origin: CSIRO (3:712/400@fidonet)