In preparation for our hike through the Solokhumbu region, Buckey and I took four long rest days in Khadbari to let our feet heal and give our sore knees a break. Luckily, the hotel we were staying...
During my time in Nepal I made it to Everest Base Camp twice. The first time was while I was doing my trek of the Three Passes. The second time was because I loved the Everest region so much that I...
Every minute a woman dies of complications related to pregnancy and childbirth. Ninety-nine percent of these deaths occur in developing nations. For every woman who dies in childbirth, another 30 women incur injuries and infections, which are often preventable. (Source)
A few months before, I had traded in my respectable corporate job and high heels for a backpack, a few maxi skirts, and some hiking shoes, and even though I had never been to this part of Asia before, I stepped off the plane feeling a sense of home.
Along with a handful of other idealistic twenty-somethings, I spent the next couple of months working in schools and orphanages alongside locals and long-term expat workers and with each day of sleeves rolled high and rice and dhal scooped up with my fingers at meal times I fell more in love (and in like) with the people housed within this ancient landscape.
2012 In 2012 we began Project Baby Bilum providing several villages in the Western Province of PNG with baby slings so that mothers can carry their nursing infants with them when gathering food. This project was sparked by a little girl named Umi that I met who, at 8 weeks old, was literally starving to death because her mother had to leave her behind with a carer (often older siblings) in order to gather food for the rest of her family.
2012 Also in 2012 we stocked two midwife supply backpacks for the YWAM Medical Ship and provided many maternal health education resources to further train local village birth attendants and upskill local health care workers in PNG. (Details can be found here.)
2013 The 2013 Love A Mama Mothers Day Drive rallied around The Sunshine Project, which provided an aid post/regional clinic in PNG with a solar powered maternal health suitcase to help their local midwife safely deliver babies through the night in an area where there is no power and no access to emergency medical evacuation. Previously she was delivering babies 4-5 babies per month by flashlight and had never had the joy of using a doppler on expecting mothers during her 30 year career as a midwife.
In the Hindu-Kush mountain region, glaciers, which act as a water source for over a billion people, are retreating at a rapid rate. In addition, weather patterns are becoming less predictable and more intense which adds to the potential economic and health impact. Climate change agents, such as black carbon, are believed to be key contributors to these changes. My overall research premise was to understand how much black carbon is exiting village households during the burning of biomass fuels during cooking events to try and better understand the role that cooking plays in the production of black carbon in this region of the world. My research was based in Sarlahi District, Nepal where a field research site was setup 25 years ago by the Johns Hopkins Department of International Health and where multiple projects are currently underway. I lived there with a few other PhD students from that department for over a year. Sarlahi is a very rural, remote area and Nepal has many problems facing it, including rolling power outages (with electricity limited to only a few hours per day depending on the season) and abject poverty. I made multiple visits to Nepal during different phases of my research.
My first visit was in the summer of 2011 for about 6 weeks. This was a preliminary site visit that allowed for me to meet the staff and embed myself with the cookstove research team. This team was collecting indoor environmental data for the parent cookstove trial, which is looking at health effects due to exposures from the burning of biomass fuels during cooking. I got a chance to collect some preliminary data, see how my own equipment would perform in the harsh environment (heat >100 Fahrenheit, middle of monsoon season, dust, and limited electricity), think about the logistics of my own study, and most importantly develop relationships with the staff that I would be working with closely.
My second visit was in the spring of 2012. During this phase of the project I was interested in finding out how much particulate matter and black carbon actually escapes from village homes during cooking events. Much of it will deposit on walls or other surfaces within the home, so knowing how much black carbon gets outside will ultimately help to determine how it is contributing to climate change. During this phase of the project, we built a mock home in Sarlahi that mimicked a village hut and performed extensive testing to figure out how much black carbon exits the home during cooking events. We then performed a similar series of tests in 50 actual homes to see what the variability would be in our estimates.
My third visit was from the fall of 2012 to spring of 2013. During this phase we wanted to characterize outdoor particulate matter and black carbon during cooking and noncooking events. We spent several months mapping the villages and taking outdoor air samples at multiple sites to form the crux of what will be a spatial model that characterizes these pollutants across a large area during these two time periods. Furthermore, as part of ongoing work, we will be able to use data from the parent cookstove trial upon its completion to better inform our model and develop our understanding with regards to black carbon production from cooking to outdoor air.
My fourth visit was in the early part of 2014 where I collected additional data looking at how improved cookstoves that utilize a chimney change the amount of black carbon that exits to the outdoor environment.
I came to absolutely love Nepal and had an amazing experience while I was there. In addition to making lifelong friends and learning all about another culture, I also got to do some amazing hiking in the Everest and Annapurna regions! I hope I have the opportunity to return soon!
Everest was the draw; I love walking, nature, the breathtaking scenery of mountainous landscapes, places on earth of power, beauty and majesty that make humans insignificant little clusters of space dust blowing around on their surface.
But I love human history, culture and achievements too, so all in all, spending a few days in Kathmandu, visiting the ancient squares, Hindu and Buddhist temples and shrines and statues, and holy people, before trekking up through the Himalayan valleys to Everest Base Camp seemed like the ultimate adventure to me.
On Thurs April 23rd we flew out of Kathmandu to Lukla in the Himalayas, the view from the plane of the mountains is spectacular. There we were introduced to our Sherpa guides, some had walked up to 4 days to join up with us! One, Phurba, a Manchester United fan like me, told me his team also walk for days to play matches.
The two buildings above began to sway and crack, like paper being torn, rubble rained down, it seemed like in slow motion, a film scene. Luckily a small open camping field was directly ahead of us, but the stone side of the caf/bar at the edge of this collapsed, a pile of boulders crashing like they were nothing more than sugar grains spilling out from a knocked over bowl (luckily no one was in there at the time), terrifying.
Our trek leader, Lalit, soon started giving us news of this, around 100 dead in Kathmandu and 1 dead at Everest. I was at the Hillsborough Disaster in England, on that day, as we walked back from the stadium, we heard 6 were confirmed dead at first, by the time we reached the city centre 50 were dead, so I knew that if this was already the death toll, only a few hours after the earthquake, then the number of deaths would be much greater, it felt like ice water had been injected into my veins.
Intrepid organised it for us to be helicoptered out of Namche: the run up to the landing platform, then the helicopter nose diving down into the valley and flying down the valleys back to Lukla. No white knuckle theme park ride will ever match that!
The return to Kathmandu: the organised chaos, piles of aid and huge cargo planes coming into land and taking off at the airport; the pockets of destruction, people living in tents everywhere, the sad stories. But also already seeing shops back open and trading, people engaging in light hearted banter, laughing again, and thinking nothing will stop these amazing people in getting back on their feet.
Then temporarily experiencing spiritual healing: Aussie Paul was being reunited with his nun sister and wife up at Kopan Monastery and kindly asked if I would like to visit. Whilst I was there I met the visiting Lama Zopa Rimpoche, he took me by the hands, giving a blessing. Then I watched him sat under a tree in the illuminated gardens, with monks, young and old, gathered around him, as he lead prayers, mantras and chants for those lost in the earthquake, the moon and stars shining above and down below the lights of Kathmandu were back on after days of power-cuts. That was a beautiful and heart wrenching moment.
At first, you view the fantastic food and smell the mouth watering aromas. There is just no time to wait for the food to cool down as you want to sample a bit of everything and get more before it has gone. Either, whoever has cooked for you has been kind and given you just the right amount of food or they have piled your plate up with heaps of every single dish on offer. Neither option is safe from being loaded with copious second helpings.
But not Nepalis, Nepali people are like machines when it comes to food. I have seen the tiniest people devour the biggest portions that I have known anyone to attempt before. Even then they can still eat more when it is offered.
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