Duralast Jump Starter Won 39;t Charge
Frauke Vilandre
I try to recommend the best product that comes with rigorous quality control procedures to ensure safe, reliable operations for years to come. Here is our list of the three best Duralast Jump Starter 700 with a short description:
This portable car battery is named Jump-N-Carry jump starter. Offering reliable power, it helps to perform the jump starting function. Plus, it gives excellent cranking power, more cranking time, extensive jumps per charge as well as overall long service life.
Omilik-Duralast Charger is a non-OEM but 100% Compatible with a wide variety of devices. It comes with great safety mechanisms. For example, it protects short circuiting, overvoltage, overcurrent, and internal overheating.
To sum up, these are all the methods you have to maintain to solve this problem. Hopefully, this article was fruitful for you. We have compiled some recommendations for you from Amazon as well. You may check those from Amazon.
I have had issues from the first days of owning the car with the systems shutting down because the battery did not have enough capacity to keep the car on once I turned the car off. But up until the time it failed it never triggered the 12 volt battery is low message, that is until it totally failed. If you are relying on that to tell message to tell you when the battery is low, don't.
I got lucky, because I never followed Murphy's advice of attaching a string to the trunk release and hiding it in the rear seat (I think I will do this now though). The car was dead. Nothing... was odd to see everything dark. What was even more odd is that the car was plugged in, so you would have thought that the car would have been asking the charger to charge the 12v battery.
In my case opening the car door was just too much load for the 12v and it shut down. Fortunately it recovered after a few min, long enough to hit the start button and turn the car on. Once the car was on you would never know there was an issue.
I was thinking about putting in a AGM battery like I have in my previous 2 cars when this one failed, but I needed my car right away and did not want to have to disassemble my whole trunk and modify the battery tray...and what if I had messed that up?
Decided on a Duralast (Johnson Controls) as it seems to get good ratings, and the price was right at just a hair over $100. If I have issues I will post, but the Duralast 67R-DL seems to be a perfect fit for the car and I am back up and running!
I just had this happen to me, got back from working on the opposite coast and the car is completely dead, yet I left the high voltage battery fully charged. It has me wondering if the 12V is dead, or if it just wasn't getting any charge from the engine not being on as I've done about 200 miles on charges alone since buying it last month.
The 12 volt battery does not get charged when the car is off. The engine is not involved. There is no alternator or starter motor for that matter. The 12 volt battery is charged by a DC to DC converter that is only active when the car is on. When the car is off the high voltage battery is disconnected from the car by contactors. 12 volts is required to engage the contactors to connect the HVB. A used car has likely been sitting on a lot for a while. If the 12 volt battery goes dead, that permanently damages the battery due to material flaking off of the plates and creating a pile of debris at the bottom of each cell. Unlike old traditional cars today's cars are loaded with microprocessors that are always on putting a small load on the 12 volt battery. Given enough time they will drain the battery.
If your car is going to sit unused for a week or more connect a battery maintainer to the battery jump terminals under the hood to keep the battery charged. Connecting the EVSE to charge the HVB will not keep the 12 volt battery charged since once it finishes charging the HVB and the 12 volt battery it will not reconnect to resume charging.
This problem is not unique to the Energi. Tesla took the opposite approach. They reconnect the HVB when the 12 volt battery needs charging. That guarantees that the 12 volt battery stays charged and transfers the drain to the HVB. They have a much bigger HVB, 100 kWh vs 7.6 kWh in the Energi, so the drain on the HVB is not as significant as it would be in the Energi.
Anytime you get a car from the secondary market you run the risk that the vehicle has sat idle for some time. Even new, if the dealership does not turn over the inventory quickly you could run into a battery that has deep cycled a few times and significantly shortened its life.
I just do the first one, as with my driving habits the original battery lasted me just over 4 years... not bad for an oem. If there was a decent AGM version battery designed for this car I would have bought it, but if I get 4 more years out of this battery I will be happy.
I read in another thread that they had their battery replaced at the dealer and the new battery had more than 390 CCAs, that would have been nice... but my dealer was too far away for a quick run by and so I just went to the auto parts store. Need to drop back by to see about the BMS reset. (on my list of things to do, but not high as the car is working great)
The downside is Tesla has to replace their 12 vt. batteries more often as they then cycle them a BUNCH and kills it in 18-36 months. There is a lot of talk on the Tesla Motors Club forums about this, people have hooked volt and temp meters and graphed it out. You get the first 1-2 replaced under warranty in 4 years.
FYI, my Energi is experiencing 12volt issues again so I called the dealer: turns out, there is a software update for the 12volt battery drain issue that was issued in early April. Appointment with the dealer tonight for the software update.
I just purchased a used 2016 Energi SE, the 12v battery was dead, the dealer replaced it and then said about 4 hours later the car wouldn't start again. My question is those of you who own 2016 do you have this problem and how did you fix it. Also would you recommend this car, is it good or bad.
A parked Tesla recharges the 12 volt battery up to 5 times a day from the high voltage battery. An Energi can't do that because the high voltage battery is only 7.6 kWh versus the Tesla 60 kWh to 100 kWh battery.
Yes I like my car. I kept it when I bought a Tesla. The only thing I have spent money on in over four years of ownership is two oil changes. I also bought a 7 year 36,000 mile warranty (ESP) for it. The 7 years will expire before the mileage does.
A car is not an investment. It loses significant value when it is driven off of the lot. Maybe if kept for 50 years it would become a collectors item and gain in value. I won't be around in 50 years so I will never know.
If the 12 volt battery has no shorted cells the DC to DC converter will provide 12 volts as long as the car is on. If the electric drive portion of the HVB gets depleted to 0, then the car switches to hybrid mode and the engine keeps the hybrid portion of the HVB charged to 50%.
Has the battery been dead in the past? When a wet cell lead acid battery is completely discharged material flakes off of the plates and collects at the bottom of the cells. If the pile of junk gets high enough to reach the bottom of the plates it will short out the cell.
Do you have a volt meter? Start the car and measure the voltage at the battery terminals in the trunk. If it is 13 volts or higher the car should stay running for the drive. Take another driver along, since you do not want to turn it off when you arrive at the dealer.
Missed this post earlier, to add to Murphy's post... I too very much like this car. Along with Murphy my biggest complaint about this car is the incredible depreciation (especially since I was an early adopter and purchased before the 5K price reduction!). Unlike Murphy, I drive this car a little more and the ODO has rolled over 50,000 and I have over changed the oil more out of convenience (I sometimes let the dealer do it when I am there for the inspection or one of the many recalls).
Love driving around town in EV only mode and probably will not purchase a car with out adaptive cruise ever again! The collision warning system saved my car one time when a kid on the phone turned right in front of me, still can't believe I didn't hit them.
I like big cars and this one just felt more comfortable than the Volt, which I would have bought other than the its awkward interior. It is football season and I will be making many trips up and down 95 on the East coast and this car is very comfortable to drive and even driving in the 70's I get 40-42mpg, which I think is outstanding. Add in most of my local driving is EV only and my lifetime MPGe is over 52 and I am a happy camper.
I have no concerns with reliability, but I also purchased a 7 year ESP but at 100,000 miles. Usually I try and sell with a little warranty left, but I may keep this car longer if it keeps meeting my needs. Just one control unit failure or the like will be worth it... basically I felt there were so many computers on this car that it was risky not to purchase it. Especially since I ticked all the boxes and bought a loaded example, sensors and computers everywhere.
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