Nik Software Color Efex Pro V4 Keygen
Saija Grzegorek
Use this filter to convert a color image into a black and white version, and control shadows, highlights, and relationships between the original colors. Three black and white conversion modes are available in the filter displayed in the right panel:
Simulates the technique used on color films where the bleaching process has been skipped. The result is high contrast and low saturation. Both set photographers and animated filmmakers use this effect to create striking, stylized images.
Simulates the use of a daylight film under artificial tungsten-type light, or a tungsten color film in daylight. Use this filter to warm up your photos with an orange color or cool them down with a bluish effect.
Provides a variety of different options for C41 to E6 processing (color negative film processing in slide film chemicals) and E6 to C41 processing (slide film processing in color negative film chemicals).
Simulates color and black & white infrared films. This filter simulates different methods of capturing the infrared portion of the electromagnetic radiation spectrum, as well as the effects produced by films capable of capturing these wavelengths.
Simulates the effect of Polaroid Instant Processing color film and the transfer of the rough image to paper before it is fully developed. The result is a version of the image with low saturation and contrast, with subtle shades of color throughout the image.
Provides advanced options that change the color and contrast of images by analyzing each one and making improvements based on their specifics. Use this filter if you want to increase contrast levels while maintaining detail throughout the image.
Removes color dominants from light-colored objects, such as a white wall or a wedding dress. Use this filter to clean up images and create bright, vivid whites without changing other colors in the photo.
The Hue/Saturation/Luminance (HSL) palette lets you selectively correct colors using 8 color channels, a global channel, and 4 sliders that alter hue, saturation, luminance and uniformity. This tool also allows you to:
When a channel is selected, the Saturation and Luminance slider bars turn that color (e.g. if the green channel is active, the bars are green). This does not apply if the global channel (white tile) is active.
As I already mentioned, the Control Point looks at the tones, texture, and color of the exact spot you clicked at (the center of the Control Point) when making the selection. By turning on the selection preview, you can see how not all parts within the circle are affected equally.
Luminance determines the range of brightness of the color. Increasing the amount refines the selection to target only areas of similar luminance to the selected color while lowering it broadens the range to include a wider range of brightness.
Chrominance determines the range of hues for a color. Increasing the amount refines the selection to target only areas with the exact same hue of the selected color while lowering it broadens the range to include a wider range of hues.
After a couple months of using Nik Software's Color Efex Pro 4, I've gotta say, I'm pretty impressed. Personally, I don't normally do a lot of color editing. For HDR photography I'll usually use Photomatix or HDR Efex Pro to get a base image, do some minor tweaking in Photoshop and be done with it.
The Light and Prefilter settings are where fun lies in this plug-in. The four presets in the Light pulldown menu are meant to simulate different sunlight effects. Not wanting to make the photo look like it was shot during the day, I used setting three with an intensity of 59%. The Prefilter menu is where you can really go crazy with the color as the different settings bring out different tonalities. While it was tempting to go with over the top saturation, I wanted to keep it from looking overprocessed. By using prefilter 4 at 43%, I could boost the contrast and saturation without it looking garish and overdone.
The image was closer to what I had envisioned, but not quite there. I wanted a deeper, more saturated blue in the sky and sea as well as a slight vignette. I used Nik Viveza to fine tune the color (more on Viveza in a future post) and did the vignette in Color Efex Pro as described in my second post.
As always, there were several ways to arrive at this result, with or without plug-ins, and no right or wrong way to process the image. Some might prefer the flatter tones before processing and consider the bolder colors of the final image over-processed and others may take the processing even further. With just the Sunshine and Glamor Glow filters in Color Efex Pro, you can go in either direction and get great results.
I use a fair amount of "dynamic contrast" because I've always liked how it handles the contrast in images. The whites start popping more as the colors deepen to my liking, then I also adjust the "correct color cast" because the unedited was very blue so I added some warmth in there with that slider. Next I went with the "Polarization" filter which mimics the usage of a polarizer filter which I was not using when I took the picture. Also, when you get done working with a filter and want to apply it, you'll need to click "add filter" over on the right panel. I didn't know that for a while after I purchased this program back in 2009.
This where the first "big" change happens to the image, I adjusted the colors quite a bit to warm up the image especially in the mountain peaks. I use the "perceptual saturation" slider to allow the algorithm to decide what the "perception" of the image should be and where there should be more saturation. You can see that I warmed the photo up by 21% and I increased the overall saturation by 1%. I'm starting to get pleased with the settings and the image overall, but there need to be a few more small adjustments. I'll be using the "Skylight Filter" next to further warm up the image.
I got a quicker way that get a similar effect, I have had it saved in my personal actions but it is so much simpler, I call it a semi sepia since it is like half way between black and white and color.
1) Make a new Gradient Map Adjustment Layer of black to white(do not have reverse set).
2) Duplicate the Background layer (one with your photo on it) and drag it above the adjustment layer and set its layer blending mode to color and its opacity to 40%.
ages ago(permalink)
This is the results of the muted color effect. I belong to a group on PBase called Digital Nuts and we get several photos each week to work some magic on. I used the muted color effect on one of this weeks photos. It looks great on this photo of the old Buick. Thanks for sharing the technique with us.
Originally posted ages ago. (permalink)
RastaRicanStudio edited this topic ages ago.
Hey, Tennessee_Gator
I'm not meaning to sound like a smart-ass but there is a MUCH quicker and easier way to do this and get pretty much the same effect.
If you use Photoshop then select your brush tool and set the color to white. Paint over your entire image. After completing that go to the 'Edit' drop down menu. Select 'Fade Brush Tool'. In the 'Fade Brush Tool' window set it to color and bring the opacity down to around 40% give or take a few digits. The higher the opacity the more it mutes the color.
Here's an example:
Originally posted ages ago. (permalink)
RastaRicanStudio edited this topic ages ago.
so here's mine. but for those people who's not creative enough or doesn't have a photography skills or a point & shoot minded clients who doesn't love post processing, a noob clients will say it's too dull, no colors at all, why is it like that? you dont know how to shoot? it's too ugly.
Originally posted ages ago. (permalink)
RastaRicanStudio edited this topic ages ago.
Ok i thought i would resurrect this one again as i have a new technique for you to try that is quite simple but effective. sort of a "mish mosh" of previous techniques with a few different ones ...does that make sense ? anyhow it will in a minute so....
1.Hit D to load default swatches
2.Load a luminosity mask of the background layer, windows version is ctrl + alt + mac version you will have to command click on the RGB channel
3.With the selection active, while holding down the Alt / Option key make a new gradient map adjustment layer, check use previous layer as a clipping mask and set the blend mode to color while you are there, you could even drop the opacity to maybe 70% also while in that dialog box.
Thats it .. a nice even color mute !
ages ago(permalink)
I tried tennessee gator's tut and it worked great on my pics. i just had to adjust the curves separately on RGB to give a hint of every color. but it worked great coz the colors are still mute. i love it. thanks for the post gator. i'll be using this effect more.
ages ago(permalink)
I discovered a new trick in Silver Efex (works both in the standalone app, as part of the Nik Collection, as well as in Photoshop via plug-in). This opens up some of the advanced tools like dynamic brightness, soft contrast, frequency separated structure adjustments, and repurposing favorite black and white presets for color purposes.
Note: This is not the same (!) as running SFX on a separate layer and setting blend mode to luminosity. In that case, colors get desaturated, which may or may not be desirable. My approach below preserves the full color 'pop' of your image.
Kool I will check it out because the SFX really works for some of my themes. I know that program well but don't use the color efex or Analogue Efex programs. I'm not really a fan of colour saturations shifting by adding contrast but I like contrast. I don't mind altering hues for effect in most cases but not the red/yellow over contrast/saturation in faces.
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