First attempt. Not perfect; definitely need to dial in some settings... most of the 10mil traces were either not cut deep enough, or got routed out, but that's 1/100 of an inch and the board was just stuck down with duct tape, so pretty happy with the initial results. Might be a class in order pretty soon. <3
First attempt. Not perfect; definitely need to dial in some settings... most of the 10mil traces were either not cut deep enough, or got routed out, but that's 1/100 of an inch and the board was just stuck down with duct tape, so pretty happy with the initial results. Might be a class in order pretty soon. <3
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Was that with the Shapeoko?
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First attempt. Not perfect; definitely need to dial in some settings... most of the 10mil traces were either not cut deep enough, or got routed out, but that's 1/100 of an inch and the board was just stuck down with duct tape, so pretty happy with the initial results. Might be a class in order pretty soon. <3
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Yes, you can. I ended up having to run, so I didn't have time to switch bits and run another job, but it should be fairly easy. Did a bunch of reading Friday evening and yesterday, so hoping to do some testing and have much nicer results this week.
For me, the main advantage is that I don't have to deal with chemical etchants (which we are very much not set up for). The way I've done etching before involves using photo paper and a laser printer to make a mirror image and then a lamination machine to transfer the toner onto copper clad board. There is a decent chance that it doesn't come out right the first time, so you have to do the process a few times. Then you also have to drill all the holes manually.
Once I dial in the settings for the CNC, it should be fairly set and forget.
I imagine that with a professional setup etching is a lot faster and produces a higher quality PCB, but for DIY, I'm hoping to have this set up to knock out decent single sided PCBs with ease.
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