King Arms 2roy hop up installment
Foreigner
-KA air seal chamber (hop up rubber)
-KA 2roy chamber conversion kit
(I only installed the two things listed above
today. I just have a picture of all these parts.)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd248/sightpicture/ghillie005.jpg
-Laylax PSS10 vsr10 555mm inner barrel
http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=443_468_472&products_id=3257
Basically I will outline how to install, by using the
installation guide that came with the 2roy kit. I assume most people
who read this know the how to's in the disassembly process that I
don't go over. Try refering to this picture of the instructions I took
for unclear parts of this mini guide.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd248/sightpicture/upgrades004.jpg
First disassemble your m700 or m40 down to removing hop up
rubber from inner barrel. You will also need to remove the muzzel or
barrel end from the outer barrel for this kit. The bolt and magazine
need to be removed as well.
[b]Take the new hop up rubber and place onto vsr inner barrel.
Now slide the barrel and rubber into the new hop up chamber. [/b] This
is where I ran into trouble with king arms hop up rubber. The rubber
said it was vsr user friendly. However, it was extremely hard to fit
into the chamber. I don't know if this is normal for vsr hop up
rubber's or not. I think it might not be a hard enough rubber
material. I ended up having to real squeeze the parts together in
order to fully get the rubber lined up with the edge of the chamber.
Even with the chamber all the way on the rubber looks uneven and
squashed. Looking down the inner barrel from the opposite end the
rubber looks to be evenly spaced though. I would suggest a nineball or
firelfy (spicy hard type) hop up rubber.
[b]Next, install spacer into the slit on the side of chamber. Slide
inner barrel through hop up base and place the hop up adjustment plate
into slit in top of hop up chamber.[/b] This part is fairly easy if
the hop up rubber and chamber are on correctly. The spacer and
adjustment plate are two small pieces of metal which can be easily
lost. The longer thinner piece goes along the side of the hop up
chamber in the slit. The other piece goes in the cut on the top of the
chamber (this piece is what will be pushing into hop up rubber)
[b]Now assemble the hop up base to upper body of rifle.[/b] This part
works fine. The new hop up chamber fits nicely into the base chamber
and upper body. I suggest completely removing the hop up screw from
the reciever to allow the hop up and barrel assembly to be attached
correctly and snug. If you don't get this part done right the whole
barrel and hop up assembly will slide back and forth. The hop up
adjustment screw needs to be removed, then put back in to hold the
unit in place.
[b]Insert inner barrel to barrel end then insert inner barrel to outer
barrel.[/b] This part doesn't make sense. Maybe I read the directions
wrong or just don't understand, but when you slip the new barrel end
cap(muzzle) onto the inner barrel, it won't go into outer barrel since
it's tapered. I had to put outer barrel on upper frame with the inner
barrel and new hop up assembly. Then I slipped on the new barrel end
cap while keeping the inner barrel lined up to slip into the new
barrel end cap. The inner barrel took a bit of force to push into the
o-ring on the inside of the barrel end cap and since the hop up
adjustment screw is the only piece keeping the assembly from moving,
apply pressure to the hop up chamber through the open ejection port
with your finger. Once the inner barrel slipped into the end cap
(muzzle) correctly, there is no shakes, sliding or rattling.
[b]Also remove origional nozzle from bolt cylinder and replace with
new high power nozzle. Be careful and use attached tool to install new
nozzle.[/b] Since this was my first time removing the nozzle on the
bolt it was a bit difficult to remove. I used a pair of needle nose
pliars and yanked that sucker off. Once removed you tap in the new
nozzle with the tool provided in the kit. I used a pair of pliers to
tap the nozzle in but the picture in the instructions showed a rubber
mallet/hammer being used. The new nozzle is a higher power nozzle and
comes with a screw type device that can be removed easily with a small
flat head screw driver. This device has a hole for gas to pass
through. Yet when removed allows for more gas flow. I assume this is
sort of a way to go from pre-ban to post-ban type gas flow. I like
this feature of the nozzle. However, the new nozzle doesn't allow for
the bolt to cycle completely on the last shot of your mag. The nozzle
knocks into the piece on the mag that pushes up bb's. I have heard
someone else had the same problem. One other thing is that the cycle
of the bolt is harder to get started and finish until worn in a bit
(about 100 shots). I assume this is due to the new hop up rubber and
is not anything major.
Now simply put the rifle back together just as you normally do.
The Crimson Falcon
appropriate section. Thanks!
On Nov 1, 8:51 pm, Foreigner <ahk12...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Installed parts:
> -KA air seal chamber (hop up rubber)
> -KA 2roy chamber conversion kit
> (I only installed the two things listed above
> today. I just have a picture of all these parts.)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd248/sightpicture/ghillie005.jpg
> -Laylax PSS10 vsr10 555mm inner barrelhttp://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&...
>
> Basically I will outline how to install, by using the
> installation guide that came with the 2roy kit. I assume most people
> who read this know the how to's in the disassembly process that I
> don't go over. Try refering to this picture of the instructions I took
> for unclear parts of this mini guide.http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd248/sightpicture/upgrades004.jpg