Nitro Z-9 Specs
Cyrille Mixtapes
The SFI Chassis Specs for Top Fuel Dragsters and Nitro Funny Cars have been revised, effective October 31, 2013. The revised versions are designated as SFI Spec 2.3P for Top Fuel and SFI Spec 10.5A for Nitro Funny Car, and they are available from SFI for immediate use by sanctioning bodies and chassis builders. In addition to smaller clarifications made to the documents, the major change is the addition of Docol R8 high strength steel tube as an acceptable structual material for chassis construction. This addition follows the previous acceptance of Docol tubing in the SFI door car specs last year. Complete summaries of the changes made to both nitro specs can be found on our Tech Advisories page under the Tech & Safety tab above. Information on how to purchase the new specs may be found on our Drag Racing Chassis page.
Generally speaking, I'd want to know if it's mixed by volume or by weight, and I'd want the specs on each of the fuels being blended, and far more ideally the specs of the blend they're selling because stoich point is just one factor.
In this case, M1 specs might be correct for the methanol portion, they don't post nitro specs, on top of it being unclear how they're mixed. There are too many unknowns. I'd contact VP directly and ask.
These are more discussion points, so DO YOUR RESEARCH, using multiple sources, as it's a potentially nasty, dangerous fuel that has a lot of potential for doing harm. There is a reasonably informative thread here - -race-fuel.346024/
The problem, as Mike said, is you NEED to know if it's a 50-50 mixture by volume, or mass(weight) because they are very different in density, and so there may be a big discrepancy if you use the wrong values. They also have differing expansion rates, for the same mass (weight) the ratio of the volumes will change with temperature - this is not really a problem chemically, but it WILL affect the overal air-fuel ratio.
Pay particual attention to the detonation and other hazards of the fuel, such as it's corrosive nature, which can mean a complete replacement of the fuel system if it's not specifically made for the fuel.
As Gord said you can ballpark the stoich point of a blend from 2 stoich points using a weighted average. This works for blending pump gas octanes as well, but when it comes to nitro and methanol the weight difference is massive so you'll want to know how "50/50" is determined.
With known good injector data, fuel pressure being accounted for, and an engine calibrated well on a known fuel prior, you could enter a ballpark stoich point for the new blend, switch fuels, then adjust the stoich point in your ECU until the engine hits lambda targets like it did prior, and consider that value likely in the ballpark of correct.
You're definitely jumping into the deep end with that fuel blend as Gord mentioned. If you haven't already, the progression I'd suggest is tuning for M1 methanol, then try M5, then try mixing up your nitro blend, then if you still want to try 50/50 go for it.
Ballparking the stoich point ends up being the quick/easy portion of sorting out a blended fuel because while the stoich point can be determined with relative accuracy in a few ways we've mentioned, blended fuels often don't behave like the weighted average of the behaviors of the fuels being blended, and these two fuels have rather different behaviors.
You REALLY need to build the engine for this because the increased power/torque is from the increased cylinder pressure - obviously - so you need to consider it as being a high boost engine build. Depending on the fuel blend, you're looking at double, triple, quadruple or even higher pressures and you're going to need the hardware to support that - probable sleeves, head studs, pistons to suit that may be custom, connecting rods, probably crankshaft on top of the clutch and other transmission parts.
The second part is this fuel can be DIFFICULT to ignite reliably, and it HAS to be ignited because any misfire will leave unburned fuel in the cylinder and, while some will pass out the exhaust, it will take only a few cycles for a substantial amount to build up - this DANGEROUS because NM is susceptible to compression ignition, like a diesel, and the fuel in the cylinder doesn't 'burn', it EXPLODES (one of the reasons I referred to it as nasty earlier), and that will not only cause head gasket failure, it's been known to blow heads of engines, split blocks, pretzel con-rodss, end crankshafts through the bottom of the engine, etc. on top of the fire danger.
Even something as simple as turning the engine over can ignite fuel residue! - These engine were probably using a 90% nitro' blend (I think that's the legal limit now), but they should give you some idea of why the fuel isn't for beginners - =FJwwXEZpXcI and =pqHPSxJ0LbE
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Thanks for the link but I am have seen that sub 4lb number before and having owned them in the past, I don't think that's accurate for the rear as shown Maybe the fronts though. I'd weigh my current Nitros but they are toast.
Yeah I have ran the IRC ones before too. He'll, I have tried everything from cheapo tubes to mousses and Tubliss. My last bike had the Bridgestone UHD front and it was great. I think they are 4mm vs the IRC at 3mm. The Bridgestone are probably very comparable to the Nitro Mousse weight but I'm just curious.
No real reason as to why, just curious. Well I guess I am sort of curious as to a fatty front with my nitro mousse vs going back to a 90/90 front with a UHD tube because my front had been deflecting and feeling weird lately.
You made a good point on messing with psi. With my Nitro mousses its always a drop in psi. It goes from standard 14psi feeling or so new to eventually around 8psi or lower after 30 hours. I chuck a mousse wedge in there to get it back to around 12psi then it goes down again. With the UHD you always know where you're at. Checking tube psi is way better than tubliss psi checks.
If I was flatting a lot and it was a HUGE issue dealing with them, I'd look a the Nitro Plush or Tubliss but with the lack of riding I've been doing recently, I might be getting 3 years out of a back tire ?
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