How To Test Xenon Bulb With Multimeter
Cyrille Mixtapes
If you're experiencing issues with your vehicle's headlight bulb, such as dim or non-functioning light, it's important to determine whether the bulb itself is faulty. One way to do this is by testing the headlight bulb with a multimeter. A multimeter is a versatile tool that can measure voltage, resistance, and continuity. In this article, we will guide you through the process of testing a headlight bulb using a multimeter. Let's get started!
Testing headlight bulbs is a relatively simple procedure that can be done with a multimeter. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, you can always take your car to a mechanic. However, testing your headlights yourself is a good way to save time and money, and it can help you keep your car safe on the road.
I have a 9004 Headlamp in my car. I want to test the female electrical connector to the lamp. I know the connector has a high beam, low beam, & negative. I know which ones they are. Please tell me exactly how to test it with a multimeter. thanks.
Connect the black (negative lead) of the multimeter to a good ground on the frame or to the negative battery terminal. Set the multimeter on the voltage scale for 20 volts. Turn on the headlights and select low beam with the dimmer switch. The reading should be around 12.4 volts or so. Then select the high beam with the dimmer switch. The voltage at the low beam connection should be 0 volts and at the high beam connection should be 12.4 volts. If you get voltage at each of these terminals, put the black lead into the negative connection and repeat the test. You should get the same results. If not, the headlight ground is bad. You have then tested all the connections on the connector.
We utilize specific automotive housings, including the most common makes and models to provide a comprehensive result for the viewer. H7, H11, and 9005 bulbs are currently tested in halogen and aftermarket LED & HID situations, and D2S for OEM HID bulbs to ensure uniformity for results. Please keep in mind that other makes and models may differ, however our aim is to provide a comparison between each bulb brand and model in a controlled environment.
High quality test equipment is used to ensure the most accurate and fair measurement possible. OE/factory equipment is utilized. We keep our test details updated and are subject to change (as we continue to enhance our processes). Please see below for all specifics.
Lifespan ratings are currently based on one sample for each model, ran continuously at 12.75v with a 35W ballast until burnt out. Temperature controlled environment with no movement (for consistency)
Beam images taken with the same camera exposure settings, color is near true to life but will vary depending on your viewing screen. NOTE: Images may differ based on old test procedures, we are in the process or re-taking all images
Kelvin/Color: Stock Halogen Color Temperature Kelvin is typically 3300k, Stock OE HID Color Temperature Kelvin is typically 4300k. Color shown is tested using a kelvin meter pointed at headlights output against a white test wall. Kelvin rating of 4000k has a yellow incandescent tint, 5000k is pure white, 6000k has a blue tint
Disclaimer: Test results performed may be performed at different dates, Results are not perfect and may vary depending on many factors including but not limited to manufactering defects and environmental variables. See Terms & Conditions for further information. Test details last updated 9/21/2020.
4. Using a multimeter, checked the headlamp connector (not inside the headlight housing, but the one that also seems to provide power to the orange light on the side of the headlight ...) and confirmed no power to 3 pins of 5 pins (power only for orange light is available, ground is fine). Image listed below of the connector I'm referring to. I did find it odd that the orange light (not even sure what its called.. not the turn signal, but a light on the side that is on only when the lights are on) is attached on the same connector but hey...
I'm basically out of ideas and can't find much about which relay to start checking that could be causing this, especially since the relay is likely sitting in front of the two fuses, and is one relay to both headlights - which means both would be out if it was a relay issue. I may be wrong here..
Any thoughts on whether this could be some sort of relay or other fuse that is causing ONLY the passenger side headlight to not see power out of a connector with other lights that are receiving power?
2. The wire traced back to near / below the main fuse box near the battery, and the wiring seems to split (similar color wires at least?) between the main fuse box, battery junction, and then somewhere even further which I only assume is the fuse box in the driver side panel.
Due to the flickering of the HIDs that I installed without a relay/extra wiring to the battery (which I have now installed) .. the car's SJB (smart junction box) and Computer thought that there was a short to ground, and faulted that specific light and shut it down.
I plugged in my Veepak reader, and used the "forscan" app on Android (amazing app by the way) to run tests on each module; which tested the BCM (Body Control Module) and the FLM (Front Light Control Module)
Today, there's a whole bunch of vehicles on the road that came off the dealership lot with HID projector headlights, like this one. Short answer is... NO! D1S / D2S LED bulbs don't work. If you have that type of bulb on your car or truck you need to be using HID replacement bulbs. Find the best deals on them here:
This headlight is for the 350z, but the same information applies to a Chevy Silverado with HID headlights, a GMC Sierra, a Ford F-150, or a new Chevy Camaro. Anything that came off the lot with factory xenon or HID headlights use something called a D Series bulb, a D1, a D2, a D3, or a D4.
You can tell the difference because they've got a green plastic insert instead of black. Functionally, that's the most significant difference. To install LED bulbs, you could find a D1 LED to work with D1S or D3S or a D2 LED to work with D2S or D4S.
Once you take that D-Series bulb out, you're going to find that it's pretty easy to put the new LED bulb in its place.
The problem becomes: how do you install it?
Well, the original HID cable runs through the headlight to a built-in ballast on the backside of the headlight (shown below). This is the power that runs your headlight bulb. Here you've got: the bulb on the inside, the power on the outside, a cable that runs through, and a ballast mounted to the headlight. There's nothing plug-and-play about this type of project.
If you have the D1 or D3 type bulbs, you're going to have something that looks like this. The bulkhead coming from the vehicle gives power to your ballast, and the ballast has a cable that connects to your light bulb.
If you have a D2 or a D4 HID bulb, you get a ballast like this, where the bulb connects inside like so, and the ballast has a wire harness coming off of it to power everything. If you have a D2 or D4, you need a product like this (product left in photo below) to replace this (product right).
We went out and bought seven different D1, and D2 style LED headlight bulbs off the internet. None of them are indeed plug-and-play.
To start, you're going to have to figure out what to do with that incoming power wire, your old ballast, and the old igniter cable. Nothing is a true kit; you're going to have to figure something out, and you're going to have to cut stuff up. If you're thinking about LED bulbs on your HID system because something burnt out, got a bad bulb, or you got a lousy ballast, you can buy new bulbs or new ballasts, but these LED headlight bulbs aren't a great option.
Enough of that. Let us prove to you the real reason why the light output sucks on these LED headlight bulbs.
The first bulb in our test barely even registers on the brightness meter. This light is not a usable pattern, and it's not enough light to use for driving. The most significant problem with this one is that the chips are completely out of alignment, and there's no way to align them.
As you can see, playing around with the bulb's orientation (below), trying to get it to line up in a way that makes a meaningful beam pattern on this one is pretty much impossible. Another fail in the LED D-Series bulb category.
Here we have the Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 D2S LED bulb.
It fits in the projector, it lines up correctly, and this is the beam pattern. Coming in at 850 maximum lux, it's less than half as bright as the original HID, and the beam pattern leaves something to be desired.
Here's another one (below) that doesn't entirely create the right kind of beam pattern. It barely registers on the brightness scale, and it's just not a good fit.
Although this model (below) is pretty bright, coming in at 1050 lux (a little bit under half the brightness of the original HID), this beam pattern isn't usable. This test goes to show that there's no real reason to choose an LED bulb in your OEM HID headlight.
Just like we thought: If you've got an HID headlight, stick with HID.
If you've got a burnt-out bulb, replace the bulb.
Finally, if you've got a dead ballast, let's replace the ballast.
If you need any help figuring out what components you need to make your factory HID headlight work its best, hit us up. We'd love to hear from you.
Let us know, in the comments, if you were surprised by any of these results. And if there's anything else you want to see us test, we'd love to hear.
Many vehicles that roll off the dealership lot come equipped with HID Projector headlights. While we are looking at a unit for a Nissan 350Z, the same information can be applied to a variety of cars. A Chevrolet Silverado with HID headlights, GMC Sierra, a Ford F-150, or a new Chevy Camaro, that came with factory xenon or HID headlights will use something called a D Series bulb.
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