Follow along and learn how to clean up studio backgrounds in Photoshop! Make detailed cutouts of subjects (including hair and fabric), adjust lighting and color, and place subjects on pure black and pure white backgrounds.
Clean backgrounds make it possible to seamlessly integrate subjects into a website or advertisement and work more freely with typography. If you want to work in professional image creation and design, then these are essential skills that can help you in a wide variety of situations.
Learn how to remove objects and distractions from a photo by covering them up with common tools like the Clone Stamp Tool and Spot Healing Brush Tool. Then, hide your work by recreating the natural noise and texture in the original photo. Master these tools and more in How to Remove Anything in Photoshop!
Photoshop has a ton of both automated and manual tools for making cutouts and selections. But when you need maximum precision, the Pen Tool should be your go-to. Learn how to use the Pen Tool to make ultra-accurate selections, while combining it with other tools to tackle softer, more detailed areas.
I really enjoyed the tutorial. Aaron has lots of great information about Photoshop itself and different methods of using it. His suggestions and examples are wonderful. Thank you, Aaron, for another fantastic course.
Aaron Nace is an incredible instructor,, photographer, and Photoshop guru!! In this tutorial, he takes you from start to finish and covers how to make each image work and do what you need it to do. Having an image with an entirely black (or white) background is very helpful for just about everything. Social media, commercial work, and many other things. Great job Aaron and looking forward to so many more!!
I found Aaron Nace a good trainer. This course is very helpful. Found the course easy to follow, the subject content is exactly what I need. The whole course is real life like so I can come back to refresh my understanding.
In this Photoshop Effects tutorial, we'll learn how to quickly and easily create a simple photo studio background in Photoshop which can then be used to make any portrait-style photo look as if it was taken in an actual photo studio, even if it was really taken in your office, your kitchen, your neighbor's backyard, or basically any place other than a photo studio. As with most Photoshop effects, this background works best when used with the right type of photo, so since we're trying to make it appear as if the photo was taken in a portrait studio, it helps if the person in the photo is dressed nicely, hair in place, and sitting in one of those completely unnatural portrait studio poses.
One other thing to keep in mind before we begin... If you're planning on taking a photo to use with this background, try to have the person (or people) sit in front of a plain white background if possible when you take the shot, since that will make it much easier to select them in the original photo when you go to move them in front of this new background we're about to create.
To begin, we need to create a new Photoshop document, so go up to the File menu at the top of the screen and choose New, or use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+N (Win) / Command+N (Mac). Either way brings up Photoshop's New Document dialog box. Let's use a standard size of 8x10 inches for our new document, so I'll select that from the list of Preset sizes. I also want to make sure that I enter 72 pixels/inch for my Resolution value:
Now, if you know anything about image resolution and print quality, you're probably wondering why I've set my resolution to only 72 pixels/inch, which is far lower than the professional print quality resolution of 300 pixels/inch, and you're most likely thinking that if we go to print this image at only 72 pixels/inch, it's going to look rather horrible, and you'd be right. There's no way we can print our image at such a low resolution and expect it to look good. Don't worry though, we won't be leaving it like this.
The reason we're starting off at only 72 pixels/inch is because we're going to be using Photoshop's Clouds filter to help us create our background, and the Clouds filter is resolution-dependent and only works well at low resolutions. If we tried to use the Clouds filter at 300 pixels/inch, we'd get a whole bunch of really small clouds instead of a few large ones, and we want the larger ones for this effect. I'll show you what I mean in just a moment. For now though, go ahead and create your new document by clicking OK in the top right corner of the dialog box.
We need our background to be black, so press the letter D on your keyboard to reset your Foreground and Background colors if needed, which sets black as your Foreground color (white becomes your Background color), and then use the keyboard shortcut Alt+Backspace (Win) / Option+Delete (Mac) to fill the document with black:
If we look in our Layers palette, we can see that we currently have only one layer, the Background layer. We need to add a new blank layer to the document, so click on the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette (it's the icon directly to the left of the trash bin):
With the new layer selected in the Layers palette (the currently selected layer is highlighted in blue), go up to the Filter menu at the top of the screen, choose Render, and then choose Clouds. I don't think you'll find too many people who'll claim that Photoshop's Clouds filter gives you anything remotely close to realistic-looking clouds, but still, your document should now look something like this:
The Clouds filter gives you something different each time you apply it, so if you want to experiment with it a little to see different variations of the effect, simply press Ctrl+F (Win) / Command+F several times to re-apply the filter and you'll see a different cloud pattern each time.
Before we continue, just to show you what I meant earlier about how the Clouds filter would give us a different result if we tried running in at 300 pixels/inch instead of 72 pixels/inch, here's what we'd get with it at 300 pixels/inch:
We've added our clouds but they're too intense at the moment. We need them to be much more subtle, so go to the Opacity option in the top right corner of the Layers palette and lower the layer's opacity down to 40%:
We need to merge our two layers together at this point, and we can do that with the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+E (Win) / Command+E (Mac). If we look again in our Layers palette, we can see that two layers have been merged into one:
Let's make the background look a bit more interesting by adding a little texture to it. Going up to the Filter menu once again, this time choose Brush Strokes, and then choose Spatter. When the dialog box appears, enter 10 for the Spray Radius and 5 for the Smoothness, then click OK to apply the filter to the image:
Before you click anywhere else in Photoshop, go up to the Edit menu at the top of the screen and choose Fade Spatter. The "Fade" option is only available as the very next thing you do after applying a filter, so if you click somewhere else first and then try and select the Fade option, it will be grayed out and unavailable. When the Fade dialog box appears, lower the opacity value of the filter effect to 50% to reduce the intensity of the effect:
Let's add just a bit more texture to the background by once again going back up to the Filter menu, again choosing Brush Strokes, and this time choosing Sprayed Strokes. When the dialog box appears, enter 12 for the Stroke Length, 7 for the Spray Radius and Right Diagonal for the Stroke Direction option, then click OK to apply the filter:
Once again, let's fade the opacity of our filter effect by going up to the Edit menu and choosing Fade Sprayed Strokes. When the dialog box appears, lower the opacity value to 50% just as we did with the Spatter brush filter a moment ago, then click OK:
Now that we've finished with the Clouds filter, we can increase the resolution to what it should be if we want professional print quality. Of course, increasing the resolution of an image in Photoshop is usually something we want to avoid as much as possible since all you're doing is making the image larger without adding any more detail to it (as powerful as Photoshop is, it still has no way of knowing what the image would have looked like in higher resolution), and you end up with an image that went from crisp and sharp to soft and dull. However, since all we're doing here is creating a background, and backgrounds are often blurred out anyway to bring more attention to the main subject in the foreground, we can get away with it.
To increase the resolution, go up to the Image menu at the top of the screen and choose Image Size. When the Image Size dialog box appears, enter a value of 300 pixels per inch (which is the standard for professional quality printing) for the Resolution option. Also, make sure the Resample Image option is checked at the bottom of the dialog box, and if you're using Photoshop CS2 or higher, set the Interpolation Method (it's the drop-down list to the right of where it says "Resample Image") to Bicubic Smoother, which is generally what we use when making images larger. If you're using an older version of Photoshop, set it to Bicubic:
At this point, our background is pretty much complete, but let's give ourselves a bit more control over it by adding a "Hue/Saturation" adjustment layer, which is going to give us the ability to not only lighten the background if we think it's looking a little too dark but also change its color. To do that, simply click on the New Adjustment Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette (it's the icon that looks like a circle split diagonally between black and white):
When the Hue/Saturation dialog box appears, if you think your background looks a little too dark, simply drag the Lightness slider to the right to lighten the background. If you want to add some color to your background, first select the Colorize option in the bottom right corner of the dialog box, then drag the Hue slider left or right to select a color. You can adjust the intensity of the color by dragging the Saturation slider in the middle of the dialog box. Here I've used the Hue/Saturation adjustment layer to add blue to the background, just as an example:
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