Bheja Fry 2007
Miina Hunker
In the Hyderabadi cuisine of India, maghaz masala (bheja fry) is a deep fried goat brain delicacy. Mogoz bhuna is a popular dish in Bangladeshi cuisine, which is cattle or sheep/goat brain sauted in hot spices.[3] Almonds and pistachios are often added.
Remember Vinay Pathak and Rajat Kapoor's movie Bheja Fry released in 2007? Bheja Fry is a common slang used in parts of Mumbai and Andhra Pradesh, often to describe a person or a situation who is so irritating or perplexing that he /it almost fries your brains, hence the term 'bheja (brains) fry'. Many of you may have used the phrase in your day to day conversations too. But did you know the phrase is derived from a popular dish which actually uses brains of goat, sheep or lamb cooked in a spicy masala? A famous street food in Hyderabad and Mumbai, the dish is quite literally mind blowing.
While it is a popular dish in several households across the sub-continent, the credit of Bheja Fry goes to the Muslim inhabitants of medieval India. According to A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food by Food Historian K.T. Acharya, "Islam enjoins that no food be wasted, even left overs being saved and eaten", which basically means that every part of the animal is worthy of consuming, be it the tender leg cut, or its brain.
Bheja fry is also known as Maghaz or Magaj, which also means brain. The offal dish is a significant part of Indian Muslim, Bangladeshi and Pakistani cuisine(where it is called Maghaz Bhuna). The brain of a goat or sheep is fried, and cooked in a gravy. Next time when you are in Hyderabad, do try and explore beyond the heavenly Hyderabadi Biryani, Saalan and Haleem, and try their signature Maghaz Masala, a deep-fried goat brain dish sauted in hot spices. To make the gravy richer, almonds and pistachios are often added in the preparation. The 'fried brains' are slightly spongy in texture, which is well complemented by the hot spices.
Celebrity Chef Akshay Nayyar, Co-Owner of Kopper Kadai, Delhi and Bangalore says, "Bheja Fry typically translates into pan-fried brain cooked with Indian spices. It is primarily a famous street food originating from Hyderabad where it is also eaten with Khameeri Roti or a pao. It is a star dish on the streets of Mumbai where a more spicy Konkani version is served. If you travel up north then a more earthy-style Tawa Maghaz recipe is available where they use more of coriander, chilli paste and garam masala, cooked with grated egg. I have also heard locals say that apart from being a delicious treat, it is good for your nervous system, eyes and brain function."
And one such example of unconventional filling is the bheja puff, a much sought-after delicacy in the Frazer Town area of Bengaluru during Ramadan. Believed to have originated from the nearly century-old Albert Bakery on Mosque Road, the bheja puff features the typically crunchy exterior and a centre of mushy mutton brain. The juicy centre complements the flaky exterior, and the flavour, though different from what puff-eaters are accustomed to, does not take much getting used to.
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In Hyderabad, India, brain fry isn't just the resulting sensation from surrounding commotion and summer heat. Hole-in-the-wall eateries and street vendors fry goat, sheep, or cow brain, then smother it in spicy sauce and onions. Patrons scoop up the fiery gravy and rich, slightly spongy brain with a helping of bread, often opting for naan or tandoori roti.
Other regions are also home to versions of this heavy, savory dish, which goes by bheja fry or maghaz. Mumbai is known for an extra-spicy rendition, and parts of northern India add grated egg and coriander seeds to a medley of chili paste and spices. Some cooks sell the brain deep-fried and dry-spiced, while others opt to serve it pan-fried and drowning in curry.
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