[arcol.hu] Arcol.hu hotend v4 bowden edition

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Laszlo KREKACS

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Jan 28, 2014, 1:00:11 PM1/28/14
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Hi,

Some months ago I mentioned
some new hotend variants are in the works.

The first batch of the bowden version is ready.
(the rapman version is also ready, I will publish it tomorrow or even today)

Here are some early photos for the curiouses:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7417/12192656826_c440558acf_h.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7336/12192653706_5579c04131_h.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5494/12192466044_b22020aab2_h.jpg

What do you need to modify on your machine
if you have an already working v4 hotend?:
nothing:)

What was modified on the standard v4 hotend:
Different heatsink, so it is possible now to screw into a connector,
which continues in a tube.

On the other end of the tube, there is also an another connector, and
a modified aluminium mounting plate, which accepts the connector.

The connector is some rare pneumatic connector, drilled up on a lathe
so the 3mm filament can go through it without problem.

With this setup, I have made a dual extruder setup half a year ago.
But the primary goal for the bowden type hotend is for the delta machines
(I have also a surprise for future delta builders in a couple of days).

The metal connectors makes this setup rather robust.
Plastic connectors tends to break too easily if in heavy use.

What are your thoughts?
Any feedback is most welcome.

Best,
Laszlo

Bryan Boettcher

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Jan 28, 2014, 1:14:43 PM1/28/14
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I want one.  I'm converting my Minimax to quick-change Bowden.  It's already quick-change conventional, but the stubby frame is wanting for some extra Z height.  Is either side of the mechanism quick-release, and does it use 6mm OD tubing?



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László KREKÁCS

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Jan 28, 2014, 1:19:40 PM1/28/14
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Hi,

On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 7:14 PM, Bryan Boettcher
<bryan.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I want one.

Super:) I try to hurry up:)

> I'm converting my Minimax to quick-change Bowden.

Minimax? This one?:
http://www.alephobjects.com/photos/printers/minimax/2012Q1/minimax_mendelmax/DSC_0199-1024.html

> It's already
> quick-change conventional, but the stubby frame is wanting for some extra Z
> height.

Photo, photo, photo. Show us some photo of your machine:)

> Is either side of the mechanism quick-release, and does it use 6mm
> OD tubing?

You can remove the tubing from the connector, or the connector itself.
Simple threads everywhere, nothing permanent (like glueing).

Something like under a minute, dunno what your definition of quick-change is.

Laszlo

Ante Vukorepa

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Jan 28, 2014, 1:24:54 PM1/28/14
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On Tuesday, 28. January 2014. at 19:19, László KREKÁCS wrote:
Is either side of the mechanism quick-release, and does it use 6mm
OD tubing?

You can remove the tubing from the connector, or the connector itself.
Simple threads everywhere, nothing permanent (like glueing).

Something like under a minute, dunno what your definition of quick-change is.

He probably meant - are you using quick-release pneumatic couplings.
The kind you can twist or pull a ring to release the mate.

The answer to which (from your description at least) is probably no.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa

László KREKÁCS

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Jan 28, 2014, 1:29:48 PM1/28/14
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>
>
> He probably meant - are you using quick-release pneumatic couplings.
> The kind you can twist or pull a ring to release the mate.

I know that one. Like this, no?:
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/100606023/Pneumatic_Fittings.jpg

The connector I use has a screw-on cap.
I like it better then the above push-release type (more sturdy/robust).

Yes, the tubing is 6mm OD.

Best,
Laszlo

>
> --
> Ante Vukorepa

Bryan Boettcher

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Jan 28, 2014, 1:41:02 PM1/28/14
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My machine uses the RichRap quick-change X carriage, and I'm wanting to add in addition to that a process to quickly change the tubing.  That way I can have a single 3mm Bowden extruder (using one of my hyenas!) and interchangeable hotends.  I've got fasteners for the motor and hotend already so when using "classical" cold ends I can get a whole carriage swap in a minute (then rehoming).  I use the Arcol hotend for my polycarbonate and nylon tests (and known good ABS) and my Budaschnozzle for my crappy ABS.  The only reason for that is my crappy ABS jams nozzles and the Buda is a lot easier to get the nozzle out for cleaning.

László KREKÁCS

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Jan 28, 2014, 1:56:48 PM1/28/14
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On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 7:41 PM, Bryan Boettcher
<bryan.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
> My machine uses the RichRap quick-change X carriage, and I'm wanting to add
> in addition to that a process to quickly change the tubing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffICsLWzn2o
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19590

I think this connector is quick enough for this purpose.
But you can always switch out for the push-fit connector.

I was always fearing of loosening the pneumatic tube out
of the connector if it is push-fit style.

> That way I can
> have a single 3mm Bowden extruder (using one of my hyenas!) and
> interchangeable hotends. I've got fasteners for the motor and hotend
> already so when using "classical" cold ends I can get a whole carriage swap
> in a minute (then rehoming). I use the Arcol hotend for my polycarbonate
> and nylon tests (and known good ABS) and my Budaschnozzle for my crappy ABS.
> The only reason for that is my crappy ABS jams nozzles and the Buda is a lot
> easier to get the nozzle out for cleaning.

Define crappy abs:) Is it oval?
Or there are contamination inside the filament?

Laszlo

Bryan Boettcher

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Jan 28, 2014, 2:09:13 PM1/28/14
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Usually the concern is contaminants.  I can deal with oval filament and the subsequent drop in quality but I have had (and consequently had to reorder parts for) the Arcol jam because of contaminants.  I know which filament I have that is crappy, but it's so cheap I put up with it.  The Arcol is used for the plastics I know it'll handle OK.  One time with the Buda once I removed the nozzle I pulled out a big wad of fibrous crap that had built up on the inside right before the output orifice.  I'm not sure what it was, but it certainly wasn't making it through the filament hole.

László KREKÁCS

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Jan 28, 2014, 2:48:42 PM1/28/14
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Hi,

On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 8:09 PM, Bryan Boettcher
<bryan.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Usually the concern is contaminants. I can deal with oval filament and the
> subsequent drop in quality but I have had (and consequently had to reorder
> parts for) the Arcol jam because of contaminants.

I hate contaminants inside the filament, not because it is hard to remove,
but because it is very misleading.

You may suspect problem with the spring tension, or the hyena or the
motor skips,
or something just not right.
The last thing you would normally thing is the contaminant inside the hotend.

If contamination, the cold plug is the most comforting method.

Otherwise, what I usually do is submerge nozzle+barrel
inside ethyl-methyl ketone overnight.


>I know which filament I
> have that is crappy, but it's so cheap I put up with it.

What is the price/kg you are paying which worth the trouble?

> The Arcol is used
> for the plastics I know it'll handle OK. One time with the Buda once I
> removed the nozzle I pulled out a big wad of fibrous crap that had built up
> on the inside right before the output orifice. I'm not sure what it was,
> but it certainly wasn't making it through the filament hole.

I'm wondering if bigger orifice would solve it. Ie. 0.8mm.
But it makes just too low resolution print.

Bryan Boettcher

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Jan 28, 2014, 2:52:40 PM1/28/14
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The crappy filament I have is about $3 USD / kg.  Even an acetone soak isn't enough to unclog it, but I haven't tried MEK before.

A gave most of it to a friend who has a 0.6mm and he can print with it fine.  I have a 0.75mm nozzle to try on the Buda as well.
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