Plastic/motor/hyena

[Kyle Kenney]

Hey Guys,

I've been having a helluva'time trying to print parts with my printer, Basically it's my hyena chewing my plastic to fuck, I recently bought a spool of green/yellow PLA from reprapsource.com

http://reprapsource.com/en/show/6731

That to be exact. And for a while it printed pretty good, while having the idler on my wades extruder (with brass v2 hyena) at the same place I did with the natural pla I normally print with, and have been for months without adjusting anything (pretty sure I got the sweet spot).

Anyways, Once switching to this new plastic its all gone to hell. No matter what I do....tighten the e. idler or loosen it, turn up the E motor voltage, or reduce, Or even try different hobbled bolt types such as reprapworlds v1.1 hardend steel hyena, Arcols new v2 chrome hyena or even the brass v2 , turning up the e-temp (to 188c approx) [the plastic melts at 160] and slowing down the print waaaaaaay down. It wont print and the plastic -always- gets chewed. Sooner or later, it gets chewed. I should mention once cleaning and doing other things and restarting the print, it always works, and sometimes for dozens of layers, but eventually it gets chewed. Could the plastic just be too soft? Or maybe the motor somehow burnt itself up? Though, it works still...I should mention that the weather has been insanely hot lately. I've also seemed to notice the motor getting much hotter than what I can remember....But then again I never really checked the motor temp before since things have been working great.

I'm stumped as to what could be the problem or the solution. Raise temp and really -crush- the plastic into the hyena? Or replace the motor?

Any help is much appreciated

[François Lahey]

Hello Kyle,

At first I would put back some other plastic just to see if it fix the problem or not.

Cheers,
François

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[Ante Vukorepa]

Which hotend are you using?

Also, yeah, i’ve got the idler on mine tightened as far as it goes against the hyena (the first one).

-- 

Ante Vukorepa

Sent with Sparrow

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[Kyle Kenney]

i'm using the arcol 4.2 Also I'll give the old plastic a try when I get some time (i'm moving ;( )

2013/7/25 Ante Vukorepa <o.or...@gmail.com>

[Nicolas Arias]

are you cooling the hotend ss barrel?.

i found that having at least 1 fan at full power cooling the hotend is
required to print pla.

[Ante Vukorepa]

Cooling’s my suggestion too.

I can print without the fan with most filaments, but for some (with more swell) it’s a necessity.

-- 

Ante Vukorepa

Sent with Sparrow

[Kyle Kenney]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PjRlXXKZmI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

This is the extruder/motor setup. With natural pla from reprapsource (http://reprapsource.com/en/show/6732) and using the shroud I've got there, with the fan set at whatever slicer has it (I usually manually change the speed with m106 s190~200 and temp at m104 s196, which gives me a net result at ~186) Things worked for ages with the natural pla.

Could the cooling just not be enough with this green stuff? When I get going again, I'll definitely raise the fan to max speed and see if thats causing the problem.

2013/7/25 Ante Vukorepa <o.or...@gmail.com>

[Laszlo KREKACS]

Hi,

When it chewes what are the temp of the heatsink?
It is pretty much a good indicator if everything is fine.
If you are able to hold your finger for a minute on it, then it must
be under 50-55C.
It is pretty critical to operate under that them (I mean the heatsink).

That's one suspect.

The other one is, if you print long enough with pla, then some
residuee inside the hotend
starts to accumulate. To get rid of this residue, is best to print a
spool of abs (or at least 500g).

Then you can clean it with acetone
(or ethyl methyl ketone, I prefer it over acetone a bit more effective).
The cleaning is essentially, you unscrew the heater block and the
heatsink, and you submerge
the rest (nozzle+SS barrel) into acetone/ethyl-methyl-ketone for a
night or better 24h.

Many black small dirts should be inside the solution. After that you
could see through the nozzle, and
should have the inside absolute clean.

That's my two ideas.

Best,
Laszlo