Fish Columnaris Parameters/Prevention
Carlrs
Parameters to Consider for Prevention and Treatment of Columnaris:
Please note that if ANY of these parameters are "off", it may difficult or even impossible
to effectively & completely cure a serious Columnaris infection
even if the most effective Columnaris treatment is used (AAP Spectrogram
& Wound Control/Merbromin topically)!
The results of NOT addressing these parameters and stressors is often a reoccurrence!!
Remember that Columnaris is a disease of opportunity, so even though one
may have an otherwise well maintained aquarium, any of these stressors
could make it easier for Columnaris to get a foothold in a compromised
fish.
There is no mystery here based on my decades of experience, yet this seems to be a part of the Columnaris puzzle so often missed!
*Decrease Fish Load, Crowding Columnaris outbreaks have been
shown in University studies to be prevalent in crowded, re-circulating
systems, which is a reason I recommend against these types of systems
even for fish stores.
This is also common in “African Cichlid” tanks or similar where there is constant stress due to constant battling for hierarchy.
*Ammonia, nitrites; should be 0 ppm
*Nitrates (long term exposure of nitrates over 80 ppm can reduce resistance to disease, under 40 is better)
*Lower your temperature; under 75 F (24 C) (only during treatment).
Goldfish and similar cooler water fish should always be kept under 80F (27C) whenever possible.
*pH (depending upon fish kept) Stability is more important than the actual pH.
In other words, do NOT chase you pH, find a KH above 50 ppm and keep your pH stable at whatever pH you get, whether 6.5 or 7.5
* KH: generally a KH of 50 + (what is best here depends upon fish
kept). This is related to pH and maintains pH stability via adequate
carbonates
*Positive Ionic Composition of the Water & GH: this is a little more complex than this article will deal with, however this is related to both the GH and Redox.
In a nutshell MG++ (positive magnesium ions) and CA++ (positive calcium
ions) play a part in lowering oxidative stress. However it is noteworthy
that one can have too much of a good thing, as a high GH of 400+ can
allow Columnaris more readily adhere to gill filaments, so just like
many "beneficial" methods, correct dosing is important!
This is important, please read this article for further information:
Aquarium Chemistry; GH, Calcium, Magnesium, Positive Mineral Ions/Cations.
VIDEO: Aquarium Redox Part 2 | Oxidizers & Reducers | AAP Wonder Shell Experiment
This video demonstrates the affect of oxidative stress and how mineral
Cations act on oxidizers within the aquarium water column.
*Redox Balance; although often not generally a major concern for the average aquarist, it is important to understand when problems persist especially since advanced aquarium keeping research shows its importance in disease prevention. In particular, this is an important consideration for an aerobic bacterium such as Columnaris, since often other more obvious water parameters may be good while this one is not.
Redox balance is related to GH (although if all positively
charges ions are lost from calcium and other minerals that make up GH,
you can still have a higher GH of say 300 ppm and still have a poor
Redox Balance).
But the point I want to make is that websites such as Wikipedia and many others are dead wrong to imply that "The bacteria can persist in water for up to 32 days when the hardness is 50 ppm or more" is a causative factor for Columnaris.
While Columnaris Bacterium certainly utilize these minerals, so do
fish and to make the strange leap of thought to state any GH over 50 can
lead to Columnaris (over 400 ppm might be a problem and definitely over
500 ppm is a problem). This is simply bad science, not to mention
proves a lack of practical experience on the part of authors of these
articles.
The fact is 50 ppm is a very low GH, even for many soft water fish and more importantly these minerals are essential
for correct osmoregulation and a supplier of essential positive
electrolytes necessary for fish immunity that Redox research has proven.
It is noteworthy that these mineral cations play an important role in
adhesion of Columnaris by reducing surface potential and repulsive forces
(both positive and negative depending upon levels). So for an aquarium
keeper to attempt to lower minerals and positive mineral ions is
misguided at best.
What is often missed by those advocating soft water is that the soft
water found naturally such as in the Amazon actually has these ESSENTIAL
mineral Cations, albeit in low levels (just ask Discus authorities such
as Marc Weiss).
HOWEVER often artificial soft water made from RO or DI water often lacks
these mineral Cations in the amount needed to aid in fish
osmoregulation and for Redox balance. Often rH tests will confirm the
unhealthy numbers.
In the end, we have to remember that many pathogens such as Columnaris
are often present, but it is building up the fish' immunity and lowering
stressors that will be most beneficial, NOT attempting to drive out
essential minerals unless truly at very high numbers.
Please Reference: Aquarium Redox Balance; Importance in Fish Disease Prevention
*True Level 1 Capable UV Sterilizer; Related to Redox is the
use of a TRUE level one or higher UV Sterilizer. This cannot only lower
Columnaris bacterium in the water column, more importantly a UV
Sterilizer lowers oxidizers in the water column that can and do cause
oxidative stress which then provides an opportunity for Columnaris. A
cheap clarifying UV purchased from a discounter is not the answer here
either.
Reference: UV Sterilization; Facts & Information
* Diet: many aquarium keepers may not link this to Columnaris, and in fact the link is not direct.
HOWEVER, I have also found based on my experience and tests that a fish
that is not in optimum health because of a less than optimum diet IS IN
FACT AT A HIGHER RISK FOR COLUMNARIS!
An optimized fish food is best that does not need to supplement with added vitamins due to "cooking out" of ingredients.
By optimized I mean the ingredients are what the fish need IN OPTIMIZED
PERCENTAGES, not the more is better approach as most prepared fish foods
as 95% of fish foods OVER DO proteins & energy. This includes the
majority of so-called premium prepared fish foods.
WHY? Because, as an example, excess or un-digestible protein are a common cause of kidney (renal) failure and this allows opportunistic pathogens to get a foothold.
As well, too much energy results in fatty liver issues which increases oxidative stress which then lowers disease resistance, especially to opportunistic infections such as Columnaris in particular.
Unfortunately EVERY fish food sold (even so-called premium brands such a
New Life Spectrum, NorthFin, etc.) other than Clay Neighbor's AAP
Custom do NOT follow guidelines set forth in a University study as well
as long term experience by myself as to optimized energy levels.
The bottom line as per diet is; while changing your diet
when the fish already have a Columnaris infection will do little,
HOWEVER prevention and checking spread of this opportunistic infection
is definitely improved by switching to a TRUE optimized premium diet
such as Clay Neighbor's AAP Custom!
Further Information:
*YouTube Video; Fishfood Label | How Much Energy
*Fish Nutrition; Complete Information
My suggestion would be Clay Neighbor's "AAP Custom All Natural Optimized Fish Food"
*Consider ALL steps outlined in this article: “A Healthy Aquarium; Disease Prevention”.
*Good filtration (two filters is always a good option), is
very important for treatment and prevention. It is important to catch
this disease early, as Flexibacter advances it attacks the internal
organs making for more difficult treatment. The Nitrofurazone/Kanamycin
combo is about the only antibiotic that will work at this time (unless
you have access to Chloramphenicol).
This said, circulation and dissolved oxygen do not play as big a role as
with the diseases Aeromonas, Furunculosis, or Vibrio, since Columnaris
is a aerobic bacterium that needs oxygen while these others are
anaerobic meaning they do best in environments without oxygen.
Reference: Aeromonas, Furunculosis, & Vibrio Infections
*Genetically Weak Fish, often over breeding or exposure to
poor conditions such as with "feeder goldfish" can set up a fish for an
opportunistic Columnaris infection. Sadly with genetically weak fish or
fish exposed to poor conditions that permanently damage internal organs
often NEVER recover from Columnaris, even with the best efforts.
From my experience and speaking with others in my profession, Crown Tail
Bettas seem to be especially susceptible to fatal Columnaris
infections.
The more steps you follow in this article, INCLUDING the use of a TRUE UV Sterilizer, the lower your chance of opportunistic disease outbreaks such as Columnaris (or Saprolegnia/Fungus).
For the previous stated water parameters, water changes are often very helpful (although watch cross contamination if you have more than one aquarium).Please note that Anabantids (such as Gourami and bettas) seem to be especially susceptible to this disease, which is good reason to practice good cleaning practices with these fish even though they have the ability to get oxygen from the air.
Wonder Shells are great to use in Betta bowls as they add needed electrolytes and calcium and improve water quality between cleanings.
Product Resources:
*Wonder Shells; Unique Version from AAP