Focus Mk3 Manual
Jorun Gyllenband
I recently purchased an EOS RP with an RF24-105 f4-7.1 IS STM lens for my daughter to use while out on photography shoots with me. After working with the combination for a short while, I noticed that the lens differs from the L-series lenses that I use in that there is a Focus/Control switch instead of an AF/MF focus mode switch (note that this Focus/Control switch only exists on five of the RF series lenses). The Focus selection on this lens is only functional if manual mode is selected from within the menu system or if the AF ON button is pressed. If the menu option is set to AF, this switch only serves the purpose of disabling the control function of the ring (as far as I can tell). This situation was also tested using the RF24-240mm F4-6.3 IS USM, having the same switch design, giving the same result. I also tested the process using my RF24-70mm f2.8 L IS USM lens and the AF/MF switch functioned correctly (not a camera limitation).
The outcome was that in AF mode (menu selection), the control ring has two functions associated with this switch... control and control lock. In MF mode (menu selection), the control ring has two functions... control and focus. Are there settings that would allow the switch to more closely function as the higher end lenses? I am looking to have a means whereby the focus mode position allows the ring to allow manual function at all times. Is this a possible firmware update change or is it "hardwired" into the lens itself?
That is a camera kit lens, a super zoom, so I think that similar design considerations could apply. That particular USM lens could also be focus-by-wire. The focus ring does not necessarily have to be directly connected to any mechanisms or gears.
Actually ALL RF Mount lenses have electronic focus rings/ focus by wire. This even includes USM lenses. These USM lenses use Nano USM AF Motors. Which uses similar technology to STM lenses.
Most RF lenses include a dedicated "Focus Ring" plus a programmable "Multi-function Ring". The lenses you mention, instead have a single ring which shares both purposes. That eliminates the "AF/M" switch and provides the "Focus/Control" switch instead. As you have determined, in most RF body modes manual focus is immediately available by keeping the switch in "Focus" and half-pressing the shutter release. In the "Control" position the Ring becomes strictly a control ring so it's function is selected from the long list of provided options.
I haven't checked the RP, but have checked on both an EOS-R and R5 and "Focus" is not one of the "Multi function" menu options. It would seem that providing "Focus" as a menu option would be redundant to simply leaving the switch in the "Focus" setting and engaging manual focus override by touching the ring.
My canon 18-55mm IS II lens has recently stopped working after a month. Focus ring will still move in auto but doesnt get close to the image being in focus. When the lens is in manual moving the focus ring does almost nothing at all. If the object is maybe 4 inches away the camera is able to focus onto it but anything further causes problems. I have tried taking picture outside while the sun is high with the same issues.
It sounds as though the focus motor may have gotten jammed. This can happen if you manually rotate the focus ring while the lens is in autofocus mode. Canon's cheaper lenses are not designed to be used that way, and doing so can damage the lens. Sometimes this damage can be corrected and sometimes not. The process is described in two or three threads in the forum and should be followed carefully. It reads like a cure that's worse than the disease, but it has enabled some users to save their lenses.
OTOH, if it's an "STM" lens, it could just be that the camera's battery is weak. STM lenses use electric focusing, even in manual mode, and depend on the camera's battery for power. If it is an STM lens, it should say so on the lens itself.
Twist the FOCUS ring all the way to the opposite side (retract it). Again, you may hear a couple of clicking noises. What we hope is happening is the focusing motor being put back into its proper place.
You will indeed be able to take any photograph you like with any lens on the F5. When I had F5 as my "bread-and-butter" camera, virtually every lens I used was manual. I still continue to use them on my D2X. Good lenses never die.
It is a myth (endorsed by hardware vendors) that you need the latest and cutting-edge equipment to make good pictures. Of course photography never worked that way, since it is the user who makes the pictures, not the camera or a particular lens.
No, except for matrix metering the F5 will (as I stated in my first post) do full light metering with a non-CPU lens. There are centre-weighted and spot modes available. No crippling of the metering such as found on the D100/D70/D50 models. There is absolutely no need for an external meter, since F5 has one of the best metering systems available.
You do have to use the aperture ring on the lens to set the aperture which in my opinion is a benefit, not a drawback (I have programmed all my DLSRs to behave similar, if they support this operation).
I can also report that the F5 works very well with manual focus lenses. You will lose matrix metering but, for me, that's not really a loss because I prefer using center weighted metering because I am so used to it and can predict the results.
One thing that I can report is that if your used to using an F or F2 series camera with a "B" or "E" screen, you'll see the F5 is a touch more difficult to focus by screen alone. The newer "Brite Screens" don't have quite the "snap" of the older style ground screens in the earlier cameras. The good news is the it's still quite good and you can use the rangefinder aid, if you remember to look for it, which I never seem to do until after I take the picture.
Now a WARNING ! Nikon offered a modification of the F5 to allow use of Non AI lenses but it required a trip to the repair center. Basically, they would install an aperture follower from the F4 that featured a flip up tab so that a Non AI lens could be mounted safely. Because it required a trip to the repair center this means that almost all F5's won't have this modification and mounting a Non AI lens will DAMAGE the aperture follower on the camera body. My advice, if you have Non AI lenses, don't use them with your F5, or have them "modified" to be AI compliant.
BTW, the F5 may be the finest "tool" that Nikon ever produced. Sure it's big but if your used to an F2 with an MD-2, it's actually a bit of a featherweight. The AF system is INCREDIBLE so don't be afraid of getting some AF lenses. The only downside you'll find is that it will EAT batteries. The rechargables are expensive but at the rate the F5 goes thru batteries you may want to think about going rechargeable. If not, make SURE you always have spare batteries on hand, they die quickly and you don't get a lot of warning.
BTW, I think it's a shame that Nikon came out with the F6. Some love it but it lacks the "gearhead" appeal of the F5, doesn't have interchangable finders, and killed any further development of the F5. Which means the there won't be any Li-Ion batteries for the F5 or a future digital back for it. That's why they are probably getting so cheap now. I'm keeping mine and hoping that someday Sigma or someone similar will do a digital back for it, until that happens I just keep running film thru it to keep it limber. (stupid F6, I hate you, you'll get all the toys that the F5 deserves just cause your younger :-(
Well, my F5 takes around 70-100 rolls per set of lith AAs so it's not like it really was a problem. It's not designed for alkalines so it can eat a full set of 8 alkalines in the cold in 1.5 rolls of film!
The F6 is great, it is so much smaller without the stupid grip which should always be optional IMHO. Much better user interface than the F5s whose (e..g AF-ON) buttons are so small they're difficult to use.
Since I got the F6 I never use the F5 or the FE2. It is simply the best camera I have ever used. The autofocus is faster and the points are closer to rule of thirds intersections, I like the finder better, film rewind is automatic including the ability to leave the leader out simply by setting a menu option on the back, the placement of buttons is more ergonomic, it will matrix meter with all of my many AI lenses, and a lot of stuff like data imprinting is built into the F6 unlike the F5 which needs another back. I could go on and on.
I also have an F and F2 and except for taking the finder off for fun I've never had any actual need to change from the default finders that I got with the cameras. If you like the F5 then stick with it. It's a great camera but don't try the F6 or you may end up buying one...
Thanks to everyone who has helped with this. This is the first time i have used a forum, never once imagined there would be so many people willing to give there time to share there advice and knowledge.
With the exception of some high end cameras like the F5, F6, F100, D1/D2, Nikon bodies will not meter with old manual focus lenses. The lens needs to have a chip inside so that it can communicate with the camera through some electronic connections.
Nearly all autofocus lenses have chips. Nearly all manual focus lenses lack chips. Some people take a Dremel tool and drill a cavity into their manual focus lens and add the chip and electronic contacts to their lens. This way their manual focus lens will meter with their cheap modern film body.
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