Utorrent Speed Increase

[Crystle Rike]

Whenthe on-camera flash has been raised [activated], then the shutter speed is limited to 1/200 of a second. Check to see whether or not your flash is raised when this happens. If so, that's normal. Take the picture.

And hope it isn't overexposed. I first encountered that phenomenon when trying to use fill flash to counter the backlighting from a very bright sky. All of my pictures came out drastically overexposed because I was being limited to the sync speed.

The maximum shutter sync speed is based on the fact that the shutter has two doors or "curtains". One slides open to start the exposure, the other slides shut to finish the exposure. The doors slide from top to bottom to open.. and the second door also slides from top to bottom to close (you would not want to simply have the first door close from bottom to top because that would meant the top row of pixels got a longer exposure than the bottom row of pixels... hence two "doors" or "curtains" are needed to create an even exposure.

When you fire with flash, the first door slides open completely, then the flash fires (which is really an incredibly short burst of light... perhaps only 1/1000ths second long) and then the second door closes. Even moving subjets tend to be frozen by flash photography when the camera is using slow shutter speeds if the only light that exposed the subject was from the flash.

When you use flash, you actually have two sources of light... the bright momentary light from the "flash" and the dimmer but continuous source of light from whatever ambient lighting happened to be in your setting.

It often helps to produce a more natural looking image to use a SLOWER shutter speed with flash. If I'm shooting a couple dancing slowly at a wedding reception, I'll probably set the shutter speed to 1/60th and use flash. The flash will "freeze" the couple dancing, but the 1/60th sec shutter speed will allow the camera to continue collecting ambient light so that the room looks natural. If I were to use a 1/200th sec. shutter speed then the rest of the room would look very dark and only my subject would appear lit by flash. This is because as the light spreads out farther from the flash, it's intensity dims drastically.

You can shoot faster using "high speed sync" mode (for flashes that support this.) High speed sync causes the flash gun to pulse rapidly while the shutter curtains sweep with that gap moving across the sensor. But since the flash has to pulse rapidly it has to reserve enough power for all the pulses (it can't let go with one big flash or it would have to wait for the flash to recycle and be ready to fire again.) This means the maximum power output of the flash is drastically reduced when using high-speed sync. It's just one reason (among many) why it helps to have a powerful external flash rather than rely on the built-in pop-up flash.

I am working on a personal project that required me to make a thin box that is just about 2 perimeters thick. The model is fine and it slices but I am trying to reduce the print time. Since it is a simple object I thought I could change a couple of settings prusa slicer. According to the the readout most of the box is considered an external perimeter. I should be able to change the speed settings and reduce the printing time. However no matter what settings I put in I don't see any changes in the printing time. See the images below. I even cranked the speed settings up to crazy high values but nothing seems to change.

I updated to the most recent build of prusa slicer and also tried a couple of different objects. Results stayed the same. It seems to update when I change other settings. For some reason its just the speed settings that I don't see any changes. I cranked everything up to 9000 just to see if there would be any updates but I got nothing. Has anyone else noticed this problem? Is it just the estimated time that is off?

Thanks for the reply. Im not sure about the output. I have definitely printed at higher speeds before but it was with larger objects. It could be that the size is too small and there isn't enough time to accelerate. I hadn't thought of that.

Unfortunately I have to keep the current layer height due to project requirements. I have experimented with most of the settings and shaved about 10 minutes off which is good. I have to print a fair number of these so I'll take any minute I can get.

The slicer has a speed limit for layers that take under X seconds. The default is 20 seconds; the slicer will slow print speed down towards the minimum 15 mm/s trying to make the layer take 20 seconds to print. Set the filament cool down timer to something like 2 seconds ... you should see the print speed jump to your expected values. The risk is mushed parts if multiple layers start getting too warm.

If your printer/filament is dialled in you could experiment with reducing retraction. I have 2 printers a mk3 and what used to be a bowden cr10s. I could slice the same models and the cr10 would always be slower to print. Even if i set the speeds and accelerations the same. The thing that was causing the difference was the retraction settings. When I modified the cr10 to be direct drive and set the same retraction value then the print times became almost the same. So it might be worth experimenting with lowering your retraction and z hop values a little and see what that gives you.

Just a quick update - the slow down setting definitely helped. For starters I set the time down to 5 seconds and it cut down the time by about 40 minutes. No loss of quality thus far! I will continue to experiment as needed but that seems to be the main culprit.

However, the speed you get on devices connected to your network can vary. The number of devices you connect to Wi-Fi, how you use them, their age and type, and Wi-Fi signal strength all can affect speed. Learn other factors that affect your internet speed

Is it possible to change the print speed percent as on the front panel but by doing it through GCODE? I am using Octoprint and would love to be able to increase / decrease speed percentage from remote...

The line above tells the printer to move X 50mm and Y 15mm at the rate of 300mm/s, with that said you can simply alter the "F300" portion of the code and have the printer make those movements at higher or lower speeds. So to iterate the following line would make the printer do the same movement twice as fast:

I am evaluating Plastic to see if we want to switch over from Perforce and the first thing that troubles me is that it appears like Plastic transfers over a single TCP thread. Even though our upload speeds here are 250Mbps, while transfering a test project(60,000 files and 55GB) I cannot achieve faster upload speeds than 15Mbps.

Awesome, thanks for digging that up for me. Now is this same thing possible with upload? That being said it would be nice to have a full document explaining all of the different variables which are not self-explanatory such as DownloadPoolSize, QueuesSize, UploadCompressionSize, etc etc.

So I'll start using more threads for reading file contents, which is great, and I will compress them more, which is also great, however as per my OP here the main bottleneck is the single-threaded upload. This being an Unreal Project, all of the files are already pretty compressed so my pain point here is my upload speed. As mentioned above, our TCP saturation point is about 15-20mbps per thread, so the key to improving the upload speeds is to enable multi-threaded uploads. Is this possible? Can I run multiple plastic clients and checkin separate sets of files concurrently? Is there a setting where I can increase the upload threads from 1 to 4 or 8 ?

If this is really critical for you you can upload to different branches from multiple clients and then unify the branches using the merge operation. But it sounds to me like to much for an operation you do it once (starting a new project/adding it to Plastic).

For remotely distributed teams this is the single biggest barrier to adoption for PlasticSCM in my opinion. We have guys in Europe who reach their TCP saturation at 3-5Mbps, can you guess how long it takes to commit 15GB of data at 3Mbps?

For onsite stuff obviously this isn't an issue but this alone would be a reason for remote steams to stick with perforce over Plastic, assuming they weren't having a plethora of other issues with Perforce making their lives a living hell

Well, our customers, specially bit teams, report regularly that Plastic always outperform P4. I don't doubt we could be faster, but I'm not sure it would be the key reason for massive adoption :-). Hope it is :-)

Finally, we are going to contact you to reproduce your results and try to figure out what is going on. Just to make it crystal clear: we consistently outperform competitors in checkin and update performance, both LAN (specially) and WAN. This is a key reason why many large companies choose Plastic. You can see some numbers here: -control-for-games.html#performance-results

My left hand speed isn't good enough to do fast hammer on pull offs or similar stuff. I want to learn some basic iron maiden solos and go from there but I simply can't get the hammer pull offs right. My friends who play tell me to practice with a metronome but that never improves my speed. Whenever I increase the tempo a bit too high I struggle. What are some good ways to get hang of it?

Your friends are right, a metronome can help. First, set it to a speed at which you can comfortably play it. From there on, put it a bit faster each time. The song is at 120 bpm? And you can play it at 80 bpm? Try it at 85 or 90. And up it once you're comfortable at that speed. Don't just go from 80 bpm to 120, it won't work.

As Carra said, the key is really to play as slowly as necessary to play it correctly and get a LITTLE faster each time, because THIS is where you will strengthen your fingers and develop the timing necessary to play it at the correct speed. There is no quick way to do this.I would also like to add that it is important to ensure your hand is in the correct position while you are practicing.

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